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Is it possible to only remove the plastic cover with the fans from the heatsink? (GTX 1060 G1 Gaming 6G)

Filingo

Is it possible to remove only the plastic cover with the fans from this card:

https://www.gigabyte.com/il/Graphics-Card/GV-N1060G1-GAMING-6GD-rev-10#kf

 

I need to clean the dust on the heatsink. I currently don't have air duster and I want to clean the heatsink with brush it's full of dust (Not the dust that accumulates over time, but thin white dust from house renovation materials) 

 

I tried removing a few screws, the back part lifts up but gets stuck on the front (where the connectors are), so I think I have to completely remove the heatsink from the card first? (And the also re-apply thermal paste which is what I don't want to do :D) 

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Watch this video, I think you need to remove the heatsink first which will require new thermal paste and potentially new thermal pads if you damage them. If the card is old, you may benefit from changing the thermal compound anyway

PC Specs:

CPU: Intel i9 12900K

CPU Cooler: Corsair Hydro H150i Elite Capellix

Mother Board: MSI z690 carbon WiFi

RAM: TeamSport Elite DDR5 2x16 4800mhz

Storage: 2TB Samsung 970 Plus NVMe, 240 SanDisk SSD Plus, Crucial MX300 750GB SSD

GPU: Gigabyte G1 Gaming GTX 1080 

Case: Corsair Crystal 460X

PSU: Cosrair RM850X 80+ Gold

OS: Windows 11 Home

Monitor: Acer Predator XB271HU 27" 1440p @ 165hz

Keyboard: Razer Black Widow Chroma

Mouse: Logitech G502

Sound: Sony MDR 1000x Headphones, Blue Snowball Microphone

 

Laptop Specs:

Gigabyte Aorus 15G

CPU: Intel i7 10875H

RAM: 16gb DDR4

Storage: 512gb NVMe, 1TB Crucial MX300 SATA SSD

GPU: Nvidia RTX 2070 Max-Q

 

 

 

 

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1 hour ago, A Silver said:

Watch this video, I think you need to remove the heatsink first which will require new thermal paste and potentially new thermal pads if you damage them. If the card is old, you may benefit from changing the thermal compound anyway

Ahh I changed the compound 1 year ago that's why I didn't want again as I remember the thermal pads were breaking and I'm not sure what thermal pads I need, what thickness for each section..I think they have different thicknesses there

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All screws except the 4 around the GPU have to be removed. I doubt the 4 screws on the I/O plate are holding the shroud but you can take those off as well, those secure the I/O plate to the ports only and not the heatsink.

CPU: i7-2600K 4751MHz 1.44V (software) --> 1.47V at the back of the socket Motherboard: Asrock Z77 Extreme4 (BCLK: 103.3MHz) CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 RAM: Adata XPG 2x8GB DDR3 (XMP: 2133MHz 10-11-11-30 CR2, custom: 2203MHz 10-11-10-26 CR1 tRFC:230 tREFI:14000) GPU: Asus GTX 1070 Dual (Super Jetstream vbios, +70(2025-2088MHz)/+400(8.8Gbps)) SSD: Samsung 840 Pro 256GB (main boot drive), Transcend SSD370 128GB PSU: Seasonic X-660 80+ Gold Case: Antec P110 Silent, 5 intakes 1 exhaust Monitor: AOC G2460PF 1080p 144Hz (150Hz max w/ DP, 121Hz max w/ HDMI) TN panel Keyboard: Logitech G610 Orion (Cherry MX Blue) with SteelSeries Apex M260 keycaps Mouse: BenQ Zowie FK1

 

Model: HP Omen 17 17-an110ca CPU: i7-8750H (0.125V core & cache, 50mV SA undervolt) GPU: GTX 1060 6GB Mobile (+80/+450, 1650MHz~1750MHz 0.78V~0.85V) RAM: 8+8GB DDR4-2400 18-17-17-39 2T Storage: HP EX920 1TB PCIe x4 M.2 SSD + Crucial MX500 1TB 2.5" SATA SSD, 128GB Toshiba PCIe x2 M.2 SSD (KBG30ZMV128G) gone cooking externally, 1TB Seagate 7200RPM 2.5" HDD (ST1000LM049-2GH172) left outside Monitor: 1080p 126Hz IPS G-sync

 

Desktop benching:

Cinebench R15 Single thread:168 Multi-thread: 833 

SuperPi (v1.5 from Techpowerup, PI value output) 16K: 0.100s 1M: 8.255s 32M: 7m 45.93s

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4 hours ago, Jurrunio said:

All screws except the 4 around the GPU have to be removed. I doubt the 4 screws on the I/O plate are holding the shroud but you can take those off as well, those secure the I/O plate to the ports only and not the heatsink.

Ok so I will try to remove all except the 4 around the GPU itself, then the plastic might lift? I will give it a try tomorrow and update! thank you

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On 10/29/2021 at 6:32 PM, Jurrunio said:

All screws except the 4 around the GPU have to be removed. I doubt the 4 screws on the I/O plate are holding the shroud but you can take those off as well, those secure the I/O plate to the ports only and not the heatsink.

Update: The shroud would've been removable without removing the entire heatsink if the DVI port wouldn't have blocked one of four screws that hold the shroud to the heatsink. But it's so old that when I opened it, the plastic latch that's behind the DVI broke so I guess in the next time I need to clean the shroud only I will be able to do it without removing everything

 

But now I already removed the heatsink and I'm going to need new thermal paste and pads because the pads are crumbling.

 

Is there a manual regarding the pads thicknesses?

I have Thermalright Extreme Odyssey 1.0mm - is it good pad? I'm afraid it's not the right type of pad because it's one of those clay feeling pads and not the normal rubber ones.. 

 

It's also 12.8 w/mk.. maybe that's too much?

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1 hour ago, Filingo said:

Is there a manual regarding the pads thicknesses?

I dont think so, you're supposed to measure the thickness of pads that came with the card. Otherwise you'll have to check reviews or repair records and see if someone else measured theirs and mentioned it somewhere. Or even ask people with the same model of card, but dont expect quick answers.

 

That heat transfer rate actually looks quite good, but thermal pads are not so sensitive to this. Getting the right thickness and full coverage is more important

CPU: i7-2600K 4751MHz 1.44V (software) --> 1.47V at the back of the socket Motherboard: Asrock Z77 Extreme4 (BCLK: 103.3MHz) CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 RAM: Adata XPG 2x8GB DDR3 (XMP: 2133MHz 10-11-11-30 CR2, custom: 2203MHz 10-11-10-26 CR1 tRFC:230 tREFI:14000) GPU: Asus GTX 1070 Dual (Super Jetstream vbios, +70(2025-2088MHz)/+400(8.8Gbps)) SSD: Samsung 840 Pro 256GB (main boot drive), Transcend SSD370 128GB PSU: Seasonic X-660 80+ Gold Case: Antec P110 Silent, 5 intakes 1 exhaust Monitor: AOC G2460PF 1080p 144Hz (150Hz max w/ DP, 121Hz max w/ HDMI) TN panel Keyboard: Logitech G610 Orion (Cherry MX Blue) with SteelSeries Apex M260 keycaps Mouse: BenQ Zowie FK1

 

Model: HP Omen 17 17-an110ca CPU: i7-8750H (0.125V core & cache, 50mV SA undervolt) GPU: GTX 1060 6GB Mobile (+80/+450, 1650MHz~1750MHz 0.78V~0.85V) RAM: 8+8GB DDR4-2400 18-17-17-39 2T Storage: HP EX920 1TB PCIe x4 M.2 SSD + Crucial MX500 1TB 2.5" SATA SSD, 128GB Toshiba PCIe x2 M.2 SSD (KBG30ZMV128G) gone cooking externally, 1TB Seagate 7200RPM 2.5" HDD (ST1000LM049-2GH172) left outside Monitor: 1080p 126Hz IPS G-sync

 

Desktop benching:

Cinebench R15 Single thread:168 Multi-thread: 833 

SuperPi (v1.5 from Techpowerup, PI value output) 16K: 0.100s 1M: 8.255s 32M: 7m 45.93s

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40 minutes ago, Jurrunio said:

I dont think so, you're supposed to measure the thickness of pads that came with the card. Otherwise you'll have to check reviews or repair records and see if someone else measured theirs and mentioned it somewhere. Or even ask people with the same model of card, but dont expect quick answers.

 

That heat transfer rate actually looks quite good, but thermal pads are not so sensitive to this. Getting the right thickness and full coverage is more important

Ah they were so thin. they were probably 0.5mm because I compared them to my 1mm. Only 1 pad was 2mm. So I replaced only the 0.5mm with the 1mm I had, and left the 2mm as is, it was actually intact.

The problem was that I needed to screw it with little bit of force to squeeze the pads. 

 

How can I test if everything is OK? what software to stress test it? 

I'm currently writing from the PC with the GPU I just replaced the pads and paste so it does boot, but I wanna stress it as the pads were too thick I'm afraid it's not the best

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18 minutes ago, Filingo said:

How can I test if everything is OK? what software to stress test it? 

I'm currently writing from the PC with the GPU I just replaced the pads and paste so it does boot, but I wanna stress it as the pads were too thick I'm afraid it's not the best

Any game that can max out the GPU's usage is enough

CPU: i7-2600K 4751MHz 1.44V (software) --> 1.47V at the back of the socket Motherboard: Asrock Z77 Extreme4 (BCLK: 103.3MHz) CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 RAM: Adata XPG 2x8GB DDR3 (XMP: 2133MHz 10-11-11-30 CR2, custom: 2203MHz 10-11-10-26 CR1 tRFC:230 tREFI:14000) GPU: Asus GTX 1070 Dual (Super Jetstream vbios, +70(2025-2088MHz)/+400(8.8Gbps)) SSD: Samsung 840 Pro 256GB (main boot drive), Transcend SSD370 128GB PSU: Seasonic X-660 80+ Gold Case: Antec P110 Silent, 5 intakes 1 exhaust Monitor: AOC G2460PF 1080p 144Hz (150Hz max w/ DP, 121Hz max w/ HDMI) TN panel Keyboard: Logitech G610 Orion (Cherry MX Blue) with SteelSeries Apex M260 keycaps Mouse: BenQ Zowie FK1

 

Model: HP Omen 17 17-an110ca CPU: i7-8750H (0.125V core & cache, 50mV SA undervolt) GPU: GTX 1060 6GB Mobile (+80/+450, 1650MHz~1750MHz 0.78V~0.85V) RAM: 8+8GB DDR4-2400 18-17-17-39 2T Storage: HP EX920 1TB PCIe x4 M.2 SSD + Crucial MX500 1TB 2.5" SATA SSD, 128GB Toshiba PCIe x2 M.2 SSD (KBG30ZMV128G) gone cooking externally, 1TB Seagate 7200RPM 2.5" HDD (ST1000LM049-2GH172) left outside Monitor: 1080p 126Hz IPS G-sync

 

Desktop benching:

Cinebench R15 Single thread:168 Multi-thread: 833 

SuperPi (v1.5 from Techpowerup, PI value output) 16K: 0.100s 1M: 8.255s 32M: 7m 45.93s

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3 minutes ago, Jurrunio said:

Any game that can max out the GPU's usage is enough

Ok so I don't like the new performance, the hot spot temp difference from the GPU temp is too high  as compared to what I had before (hot spot is +10C from GPU temp) so I shut my PC down. now I have a new post 😄 :

 https://linustechtips.com/topic/1385040-recommended-thermal-pads/?tab=comments#comment-15075763

 

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19 minutes ago, Filingo said:

(hot spot is +10C from GPU temp)

I dont think that's wrong. Few data are available on Pascal because the ability to read hotspot temperature didnt come until much later, but newer cards can easily have 15C difference between hotspot and averaged temperature. My laptop 1060 has around 8C difference with the hotspot reaching 80C.

CPU: i7-2600K 4751MHz 1.44V (software) --> 1.47V at the back of the socket Motherboard: Asrock Z77 Extreme4 (BCLK: 103.3MHz) CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 RAM: Adata XPG 2x8GB DDR3 (XMP: 2133MHz 10-11-11-30 CR2, custom: 2203MHz 10-11-10-26 CR1 tRFC:230 tREFI:14000) GPU: Asus GTX 1070 Dual (Super Jetstream vbios, +70(2025-2088MHz)/+400(8.8Gbps)) SSD: Samsung 840 Pro 256GB (main boot drive), Transcend SSD370 128GB PSU: Seasonic X-660 80+ Gold Case: Antec P110 Silent, 5 intakes 1 exhaust Monitor: AOC G2460PF 1080p 144Hz (150Hz max w/ DP, 121Hz max w/ HDMI) TN panel Keyboard: Logitech G610 Orion (Cherry MX Blue) with SteelSeries Apex M260 keycaps Mouse: BenQ Zowie FK1

 

Model: HP Omen 17 17-an110ca CPU: i7-8750H (0.125V core & cache, 50mV SA undervolt) GPU: GTX 1060 6GB Mobile (+80/+450, 1650MHz~1750MHz 0.78V~0.85V) RAM: 8+8GB DDR4-2400 18-17-17-39 2T Storage: HP EX920 1TB PCIe x4 M.2 SSD + Crucial MX500 1TB 2.5" SATA SSD, 128GB Toshiba PCIe x2 M.2 SSD (KBG30ZMV128G) gone cooking externally, 1TB Seagate 7200RPM 2.5" HDD (ST1000LM049-2GH172) left outside Monitor: 1080p 126Hz IPS G-sync

 

Desktop benching:

Cinebench R15 Single thread:168 Multi-thread: 833 

SuperPi (v1.5 from Techpowerup, PI value output) 16K: 0.100s 1M: 8.255s 32M: 7m 45.93s

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thanks.

I just did a slight OC as I did before with MSI afterburner, and then it crashes and this is how the software windows looks like, example Taskbar:

 

lol.png.494bc2713226feadc19e15c3c912099e.png

 

You think it has anything to do with the GPU?

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