3D Print coming out wierdly

[shinegull]

When printing on my Ender 3 V2, the filament comes out a bit wierd. I'm using PLA with settings of Nozzle to 200 and Bed to 60.

One side would print fine. thin sort of melty. but the other side of the bed would be stringy not quite melting. the left side would also seem like its not quite sticking properly.

I have leveled and re-leved multiple times, cleaned with alcohol, soap, and even tried hairspray twice. hairspray actually seemed to make it worse.( ignore the strand cutting across, thats just me)

but as you can see in the picture, its allways on the left that its like this. I've tried smaller prints, that centers more around the middle and that seems fine. Its like its not melting properly?

The first time I printed this, it was fine. but then I've continually failed to print this. Please help. This is the last piece I need to print for this particular item.

[Lord Nicoll]

9 minutes ago, shinegull said:

snip

I had something similar happen but I found it was my nozzle offset set too low so the nozzle was dragging on the bed a bit, it's possible the bed isn't very flat and thusly even perfectly leveled at all 4 corners it might still have large irregularities. I suspect if you try a thicker first layer that is printed very slowly it might work out, hard to say what the actual issue is, could be a few things. The fact it's only on one side, might be a draught too, or something loose at that end. 

[Enderman]

Maybe the bed is not flat?

[shinegull]

2 minutes ago, Lord Nicoll said:

I had something similar happen but I found it was my nozzle offset set too low so the nozzle was dragging on the bed a bit, it's possible the bed isn't very flat and thusly even perfectly leveled at all 4 corners it might still have large irregularities. I suspect if you try a thicker first layer that is printed very slowly it might work out, hard to say what the actual issue is, could be a few things. The fact it's only on one side, might be a draught too, or something loose at that end. 

The bed is made of glass (or what Im assuming is glass).

 

How do I print a thicker layer? honestly, I tend to just print things I found off thingiverse, so I dont really play too much with the settings

 

[Lord Nicoll]

Just now, shinegull said:

The bed is made of glass (or what Im assuming is glass).

 

How do I print a thicker layer? honestly, I tend to just print things I found off thingiverse, so I dont really play too much with the settings

 

Even glass beds can be not totally flat, in fact they rarely are, mine has a BL touch so it's not a huge issue but still something that requires attention. What slicer do you use, first layer height and speed are two very important parameters especially for more demanding materials like PA6 and ASA. .32mm and 10mm/s should work great and ensure the PLA is really stick down regardless of how uneven the glass bed might be. 

[shinegull]

1 minute ago, Lord Nicoll said:

Even glass beds can be not totally flat, in fact they rarely are, mine has a BL touch so it's not a huge issue but still something that requires attention. What slicer do you use, first layer height and speed are two very important parameters especially for more demanding materials like PA6 and ASA. .32mm and 10mm/s should work great and ensure the PLA is really stick down regardless of how uneven the glass bed might be. 

I use the creality slicer that came with the printer

[Lord Nicoll]

1 minute ago, shinegull said:

I use the creality slicer that came with the printer

Ah yeah don't use that, it sucks, it's just a reskinned cura however it should still have first layer height and speed settings. I'd suggest you try Prusaslicer or Cura, they tend to give better results.

[shinegull]

1 minute ago, Lord Nicoll said:

Ah yeah don't use that, it sucks, it's just a reskinned cura however it should still have first layer height and speed settings. I'd suggest you try Prusaslicer or Cura, they tend to give better results.

I'll try it with cura first then. I hope I didn't accidentally damage anything like the bed heating mechanism. its really close to the spring. (why would you put it so close to the spring?)

[Lord Nicoll]

1 minute ago, shinegull said:

I'll try it with cura first then. I hope I didn't accidentally damage anything like the bed heating mechanism. its really close to the spring. (why would you put it so close to the spring?)

If it's anything like my CR10S Pro V2, it uses the bed leveling mechanism as a strain relief system, which if you're guessing sucks, you're right, but it's how they did it on a budget. You won't have damaged the heater though, it's all the way under the printer bed carriage. 

[shinegull]

1 minute ago, Lord Nicoll said:

If it's anything like my CR10S Pro V2, it uses the bed leveling mechanism as a strain relief system, which if you're guessing sucks, you're right, but it's how they did it on a budget. You won't have damaged the heater though, it's all the way under the printer bed carriage. 

Could i have damage the , what seems like wiring or soldering, point near the rear left spring? When i was releveling the bed, yesterday, I dialed the entire bed down and felt a resistance there.

[Lord Nicoll]

1 minute ago, shinegull said:

Could i have damage the , what seems like wiring or soldering, point near the rear left spring? When i was releveling the bed, yesterday, I dialed the entire bed down and felt a resistance there.

No, that's just the spring bottoming out faster because there is 1mm or so of plastic on it as well. I drilled mine out so it rides over the spring so it didn't effect the bed level and it still works fine. 

[shinegull]

15 minutes ago, Lord Nicoll said:

Even glass beds can be not totally flat, in fact they rarely are, mine has a BL touch so it's not a huge issue but still something that requires attention. What slicer do you use, first layer height and speed are two very important parameters especially for more demanding materials like PA6 and ASA. .32mm and 10mm/s should work great and ensure the PLA is really stick down regardless of how uneven the glass bed might be. 

when you say first layer change to .32 and 10mm, which setting am i looking at? top/bottom thickness? am i setting the thickness to .32 and the layers to 10?

[Lord Nicoll]

2 minutes ago, shinegull said:

when you say first layer change to .32 and 10mm, which setting am i looking at? top/bottom thickness? am i setting the thickness to .32 and the layers to 10?

Top and bottom thickness means how many layers the top and bottom of the part have, in cura you'll need to enable the ability to see those settings as they're hidden by default. Click on settings in the top left corner and at the bottom it has settings visibility, just check the ones shown below but if you want 100% controll check them all

 

[shinegull]

On 6/2/2021 at 8:24 PM, Lord Nicoll said:

Top and bottom thickness means how many layers the top and bottom of the part have, in cura you'll need to enable the ability to see those settings as they're hidden by default. Click on settings in the top left corner and at the bottom it has settings visibility, just check the ones shown below but if you want 100% controll check them all

 

I added a BLtouch,  releveled, and changes some settings, also turned the plate 180 degrees. it all seemed to help. thank you.

 

I did have another issue come up about the nozzle heating but James evens is helping with that for now.

 

Thank you

[shinegull]

On 6/2/2021 at 8:24 PM, Lord Nicoll said:

Top and bottom thickness means how many layers the top and bottom of the part have, in cura you'll need to enable the ability to see those settings as they're hidden by default. Click on settings in the top left corner and at the bottom it has settings visibility, just check the ones shown below but if you want 100% controll check them all

 

I've noticed something else. the print quality seems to sort of drop part way through the print. it would start printing out pretty well, then maybe 2 or 3 hrs in, the print quality completely gets thrown own. the filament strands becomes thin and sort of stringy. and it would start getting dragged around bends and corners. What do i need to do to fix that?

[Lord Nicoll]

5 hours ago, shinegull said:

I've noticed something else. the print quality seems to sort of drop part way through the print. it would start printing out pretty well, then maybe 2 or 3 hrs in, the print quality completely gets thrown own. the filament strands becomes thin and sort of stringy. and it would start getting dragged around bends and corners. What do i need to do to fix that?

That's stringing probably, likely this happens when a certain part of the model changes and the Gcode changes how the plastic is deposited, for PLA on an E3V2 retraction speed of between 20-40 mm/s and 2-6mm should work. A Z hop might also be needed but without seeing it I can't say for sure

[shinegull]

On 6/4/2021 at 10:43 PM, Lord Nicoll said:

That's stringing probably, likely this happens when a certain part of the model changes and the Gcode changes how the plastic is deposited, for PLA on an E3V2 retraction speed of between 20-40 mm/s and 2-6mm should work. A Z hop might also be needed but without seeing it I can't say for sure

i guess ill go play with the settings a bit. fortunately, i only need it to come out decent once.

[shinegull]

On 6/4/2021 at 10:43 PM, Lord Nicoll said:

That's stringing probably, likely this happens when a certain part of the model changes and the Gcode changes how the plastic is deposited, for PLA on an E3V2 retraction speed of between 20-40 mm/s and 2-6mm should work. A Z hop might also be needed but without seeing it I can't say for sure

Im not sure if its the same problem, or if its 2 seperate problems, but I think its a filament feed problem.

 

I started a print before i went to work, and noticed similar shredding. I should also mention, that i got new springs, bltouch and a gluestick. never using hairspray on this again!

 

So when i got back to my printer, i noticed a similar shredding feel and look on my incomplete print. and noticed that my filament was kinked. I did notice previously that my filament reel to extruder was starting to get a bit tight, but it seemed to be pulling anyway so left it alone. So, I am now wondering how do i keep the filament reel moving while printing? without having to check every 20 minutes on the print.

 

 

[Lord Nicoll]

On 6/11/2021 at 3:03 AM, shinegull said:

Im not sure if its the same problem, or if its 2 seperate problems, but I think its a filament feed problem.

 

I started a print before i went to work, and noticed similar shredding. I should also mention, that i got new springs, bltouch and a gluestick. never using hairspray on this again!

 

So when i got back to my printer, i noticed a similar shredding feel and look on my incomplete print. and noticed that my filament was kinked. I did notice previously that my filament reel to extruder was starting to get a bit tight, but it seemed to be pulling anyway so left it alone. So, I am now wondering how do i keep the filament reel moving while printing? without having to check every 20 minutes on the print.

 

 

Buying high quality filament that's wound onto the roll properly is about the only way to stop that if it's getting caught on itself as it prints. stringing can also be caused by too high temps, however 200 should be good. If retraction settings aren't fixing the stringing then it might just be either the model, the G code or the filament itself.