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I bought an AMD 6800XT that runs worse than my GTX 1080. Am I going nuts?

Mind you, I did some testing last night running Doom Eternal with an uncapped framerate, and tried to watch a video on my second monitor and I ran into the exact same issue I was getting with my i7 8700.  videos starts laggin and buffering.  Change the game to cap framerate at say 144, and the video runs smooth.  Something weird is definitely going on when it comes to resource allocation.  It's like my PC is prioritising framerate in the game so much more that it just runs the second monitor at 10fps

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@Mister Woof @Bitter When you have time, look through this link:  https://www.chiphell.com/forum.php?mod=viewthread&tid=1920322

 

The link is in Chinese and google translate can only do so much, but skimming through it, this guy seems to be getting the same things happen to his 9900K.  High default voltages and also using a Gigabyte Mobo.  His CPU seems to be working as one should expect from an enthusiast grade chip.

 

Also, his Cinebench15 test was 2037 with all cores at 5Ghz. Mine was 1540.  Now you see why I feel like I am leaving half the CPU in the box?

 

Like I know that the Silicon Lottery is a thing and I could have a worse performing chip, but like, according to some of the benchmarks for the 8700K, that's where my CPU currently benches, which is a little less than desirable. 

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Have you tried both XTU settings only with BIOS defaults? And have you tried just BIOS, or were you unable to get that to work at all? Maybe avoid mixing them if you haven't stopped already.

 

My understanding is that you should get 4.5GHz all core for 56 seconds stock. Does the motherboard handle that?

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1 hour ago, Craftyawesome said:

Have you tried both XTU settings only with BIOS defaults? And have you tried just BIOS, or were you unable to get that to work at all? Maybe avoid mixing them if you haven't stopped already.

 

My understanding is that you should get 4.5GHz all core for 56 seconds stock. Does the motherboard handle that?

I have tried both and reset both to defaults to start fresh.  Atm, I am currently trying to update my BIOS because I think it's not supporting the 9th Gen Intel's.  I have an option for "CPU upgrade" and inside have all the available 8th Gen CPU's but they stop at the 8700K.  I found the correct drivers and installed them with Rufus onto an external USB drive but it doesn't show in Q-Flash.  I can see the drive as a boot drive, but it doesn't show up in Q-Flash.  I even went and assigned a letter to the partition that Rufus makes to see if that made a difference, and nope.  

 

How is it current year and we are still using clunky methods to update BIOS?

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3 hours ago, SeanTwig said:

I have tried both and reset both to defaults to start fresh.  Atm, I am currently trying to update my BIOS because I think it's not supporting the 9th Gen Intel's.  I have an option for "CPU upgrade" and inside have all the available 8th Gen CPU's but they stop at the 8700K.  I found the correct drivers and installed them with Rufus onto an external USB drive but it doesn't show in Q-Flash.  I can see the drive as a boot drive, but it doesn't show up in Q-Flash.  I even went and assigned a letter to the partition that Rufus makes to see if that made a difference, and nope.  

 

How is it current year and we are still using clunky methods to update BIOS?

Update your bios in bios, not windows.

 

Download the latest from gigabyte for your exact board onto a usb stick and then boot into bios.

 

Do the flash from there. Don't turn it off while it's updating 

Before you reply to my post, REFRESH. 99.99% chance I edited my post. 

 

My System: i7-13700KF // Corsair iCUE H150i Elite Capellix // MSI MPG Z690 Edge Wifi // 32GB DDR5 G. SKILL RIPJAWS S5 6000 CL32 // Nvidia RTX 4070 Super FE // Corsair 5000D Airflow // Corsair SP120 RGB Pro x7 // Seasonic Focus Plus Gold 850w //1TB ADATA XPG SX8200 Pro/1TB Teamgroup MP33/2TB Seagate 7200RPM Hard Drive // Displays: LG Ultragear 32GP83B x2 // Royal Kludge RK100 // Logitech G Pro X Superlight // Sennheiser DROP PC38x

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2 minutes ago, Mister Woof said:

Update your bios in bios, not windows.

 

Download the latest from gigabyte for your exact board onto a usb stick and then boot into bios.

 

Do the flash from there. Don't turn it off while it's updating 

I tried installing it onto a fresh drive wiped with Rufus, put the files onto the drive and went to Q-Flash.  Is that not what you're supposed to do?  Do I have to actually attempt to force boot from BIOS onto that drive?  It's honestly been over 10 years since I did this and even then it was a bunch of trial and error that took a few hours

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42 minutes ago, SeanTwig said:

I tried installing it onto a fresh drive wiped with Rufus, put the files onto the drive and went to Q-Flash.  Is that not what you're supposed to do?  Do I have to actually attempt to force boot from BIOS onto that drive?  It's honestly been over 10 years since I did this and even then it was a bunch of trial and error that took a few hours

You go into bios and then press the update button inside bios. It might not be on the list items but on the bottom somewhere tied to an F key. I think you are right that it is called qflash

 

 

Then it will ask you where to find the bios file, and then select it. You'll have a progress wheel and then it will reboot.

 

I just mean don't use windows based bios flashing

Before you reply to my post, REFRESH. 99.99% chance I edited my post. 

 

My System: i7-13700KF // Corsair iCUE H150i Elite Capellix // MSI MPG Z690 Edge Wifi // 32GB DDR5 G. SKILL RIPJAWS S5 6000 CL32 // Nvidia RTX 4070 Super FE // Corsair 5000D Airflow // Corsair SP120 RGB Pro x7 // Seasonic Focus Plus Gold 850w //1TB ADATA XPG SX8200 Pro/1TB Teamgroup MP33/2TB Seagate 7200RPM Hard Drive // Displays: LG Ultragear 32GP83B x2 // Royal Kludge RK100 // Logitech G Pro X Superlight // Sennheiser DROP PC38x

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9 minutes ago, Mister Woof said:

You go into bios and then press the update button inside bios. It might not be on the list items but on the bottom somewhere tied to an F key. I think you are right that it is called qflash

 

 

Then it will ask you where to find the bios file, and then select it. You'll have a progress wheel and then it will reboot.

 

I just mean don't use windows based bios flashing

It will be different for different boards.  Different brands and versions of motherboard will have different bioses and they’ll be set up different ways.  Iirc Qflash is a brand name.  Not all boards will have it. computers aren’t windows machines, they’re windows compatible machines.  The bios is the software for the computer hardware windows just runs on top of it. This is why they can run Linux or something else instead as well as windows. Linuxes arrange that the things that make a machine windows compatible also make it Linux compatible.

Edited by Bombastinator

Not a pro, not even very good.  I’m just old and have time currently.  Assuming I know a lot about computers can be a mistake.

 

Life is like a bowl of chocolates: there are all these little crinkly paper cups everywhere.

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5 minutes ago, Bombastinator said:

It will be different for different boards.  Different brands and versions of motherboard will have different bioses and they’ll be set up different ways.  Iirc Qflash is a brand name.  Not all boards will have it. computers aren’t windows machines, they’re windows compatible machines.  The bios is the software for the computer hardware windows just runs on top of it. This is why they can run Linux or something else instead as well as windows. Linuxes arrange that the things that make a machine windows compatible also make it Linux compatible.

I've a few gigabyte boards and even within the same brand and even generation they're not the same.

 

My gigabyte b450 aorus m has a drastically different bios than my gigabyte z390m gaming

Before you reply to my post, REFRESH. 99.99% chance I edited my post. 

 

My System: i7-13700KF // Corsair iCUE H150i Elite Capellix // MSI MPG Z690 Edge Wifi // 32GB DDR5 G. SKILL RIPJAWS S5 6000 CL32 // Nvidia RTX 4070 Super FE // Corsair 5000D Airflow // Corsair SP120 RGB Pro x7 // Seasonic Focus Plus Gold 850w //1TB ADATA XPG SX8200 Pro/1TB Teamgroup MP33/2TB Seagate 7200RPM Hard Drive // Displays: LG Ultragear 32GP83B x2 // Royal Kludge RK100 // Logitech G Pro X Superlight // Sennheiser DROP PC38x

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9 hours ago, Bombastinator said:

It will be different for different boards.  Different brands and versions of motherboard will have different bioses and they’ll be set up different ways.  Iirc Qflash is a brand name.  Not all boards will have it. computers aren’t windows machines, they’re windows compatible machines.  The bios is the software for the computer hardware windows just runs on top of it. This is why they can run Linux or something else instead as well as windows. Linuxes arrange that the things that make a machine windows compatible also make it Linux compatible

8 hours ago, Mister Woof said:

I've a few gigabyte boards and even within the same brand and even generation they're not the same.

 

My gigabyte b450 aorus m has a drastically different bios than my gigabyte z390m gaming

I am running Windows 10, and I do have Q-Flash.  Regardless, following the advice of Rufus' forum, I got the USB ready and still could not get it to show the device in the Q-Flash selection.  It showed as a boot drive in the BIOS but I was unable to select it from the list in Q-Flash.  I read something about it not being compatible with USB 3.0?  I don't think I placed it in USB 3, but the Drive itself has the blue insides that you often find, however I though that was just a colouring?  I am going to try again this afternoon after work to see whether or not I can get it to work.

 

In other news, I ran Cyberpunk last night for the first time on this setup, and it ran BEAUTIFULLY!  I re-installed the game after I refreshed windows nad I forgot that it would ahve reset my settings to Ultra.  Loaded in and was like eww what's motion blur doing on, I thought I turned this off.  Went to settings and everything was Ultra lmao.  I was getting a solid 90fps in most areas at 1440p and my GPU was running at 95-99% throughout.  Cpu was sitting at around 60-70%.  Temps hovering at around 60C across the board (including VRM).  Who knew that the buggiest AAA game from last year, ends up running the best lol.

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7 minutes ago, SeanTwig said:

I am running Windows 10, and I do have Q-Flash.  Regardless, following the advice of Rufus' forum, I got the USB ready and still could not get it to show the device in the Q-Flash selection.  It showed as a boot drive in the BIOS but I was unable to select it from the list in Q-Flash.  I read something about it not being compatible with USB 3.0?  I don't think I placed it in USB 3, but the Drive itself has the blue insides that you often find, however I though that was just a colouring?  I am going to try again this afternoon after work to see whether or not I can get it to work.

 

In other news, I ran Cyberpunk last night for the first time on this setup, and it ran BEAUTIFULLY!  I re-installed the game after I refreshed windows nad I forgot that it would ahve reset my settings to Ultra.  Loaded in and was like eww what's motion blur doing on, I thought I turned this off.  Went to settings and everything was Ultra lmao.  I was getting a solid 90fps in most areas at 1440p and my GPU was running at 95-99% throughout.  Cpu was sitting at around 60-70%.  Temps hovering at around 60C across the board (including VRM).  Who knew that the buggiest AAA game from last year, ends up running the best lol.

I'd give it a try on different usb ports - also might have to make sure the stick isn't an enormous one and in FAT32.

Before you reply to my post, REFRESH. 99.99% chance I edited my post. 

 

My System: i7-13700KF // Corsair iCUE H150i Elite Capellix // MSI MPG Z690 Edge Wifi // 32GB DDR5 G. SKILL RIPJAWS S5 6000 CL32 // Nvidia RTX 4070 Super FE // Corsair 5000D Airflow // Corsair SP120 RGB Pro x7 // Seasonic Focus Plus Gold 850w //1TB ADATA XPG SX8200 Pro/1TB Teamgroup MP33/2TB Seagate 7200RPM Hard Drive // Displays: LG Ultragear 32GP83B x2 // Royal Kludge RK100 // Logitech G Pro X Superlight // Sennheiser DROP PC38x

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3.0 incompatibility sounds reasonable.  The controller is more expensive and it’s not needed a lot.  I don’t know if qflash can run in any USB port or it will work off only a single special one on the motherboard that is only good for it.  That happens in some motherboard only bios flash situations.

Not a pro, not even very good.  I’m just old and have time currently.  Assuming I know a lot about computers can be a mistake.

 

Life is like a bowl of chocolates: there are all these little crinkly paper cups everywhere.

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Managed to get it to detect the USB drive.  Used the same port but a small stick instead of a drive.  I think it might have been because the other drive was not Fat32.

 

So I installed the BIOS update and I restarted, everything went smoothly, however my BIOS doesn't look any different.  It still lists only the 8th Gen CPU's but weirdly enough it shows me another few options that were greyed out before. 

 

I did however try to OC by turning the Auto setting for dynamic voltage control off, and set the Vcore to 1.35 and 4.7Ghz with a matching Uncore ratio.  I also ensured XMP was on and turned the CPU LLC and VaxgLLC to High.  Booted into windows find and ran a test with OCCT and it ran all cores at 5Ghz 70C stable for 10 minutes. Voltage was sitting a lot lower than 1.4V, somewhere around 1.3Vish.

 

I'm gonna play a few games and see about the BIOS and whether I can get it to actually detect the 9th Gen CPU's or whether that's important or not.

 

Also, tested Destiny 2 again last night, I'm still getting like 50fps average regardless of settings or resolution.  I think that game is just broken lol

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On 3/9/2021 at 9:40 AM, SeanTwig said:

TLDR: Do I have a bottleneck somewhere? Am I expecting too much of games to be coded a bit better?  Am I the only one that has noticed a trend that coding seems to be getting more and more bloated?  Am I just nuts?

 

After 6 months of delays and cancelled orders and scrambling around to get a good deal, I finally bought a 6800XT for $1700AUD.  Turns out, I could have saved all my headache and some cash by just sticking to my GTX 1080.

 

Long story, I installed all drivers and made sure my BIOS was up to date, and most of the games I was "saving" for my new upgrade, somehow run (slightly) worse.  At this point, I'm not sure if the game I am trying to run are just so badly optimised, or if I have some setting turned on (or off) that is causing all this headache.

 

I am at the end of my tether.  I've tried everything I can think of.  My Time Spy score was around 14k. Everything seems to be fine, however I am only getting at most 90W draw in games like AC: Odyssey and Destiny 2.  GPU usage (as well as CPU and Ram) tend to sit around 50% and none spike to 100%.

 

I did have a daisy chained set-up for my GPU (which i have now rectified), but it didn't make any improvement. At most, under Time Spy testing I get 272W at default clock and settings.

 

Thought I was going mad so i installed Doom: Eternal (bless id and their coding) and I get 300 fps at Ultra Nightmare settings running at 1440p.  I get capped 120fps in EFT as well, which, to my dismay, made me no better at the game. 

 

Who knew that I would spend the first 48hrs of a new GPU, screwing around with in-game settings trying to get over 80fps at 1440p

Bottleneck maybe cuz with a 8700 you are not giving the enough power to your 6800xt 

but the other thing is that you should get a better performance compare to 1080 cuz 5700xt is a bit weaker than the 2070 super so it might be the bottleneck but nut really sure🤷🏼‍♂️

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