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Should I do this when changing fluid?

shhh
By shhh
in Custom Loop and Exotic Cooling
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I'm curious if it's a bad idea to leave everything but the motherboard plugged in when changing my fluid. What I'm really wondering is if the gpu and cpu will actually draw power from the psu when jumped on the 24-pin. It's really annoying having to unplug and reseat a bunch of crap I don't really have to and I don't own a separate psu.  

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Why? I mean you could, but I definitely would take everything else out until the loop is replaced. To prevent reseating everything, just unplug your PC, connect it [PSU] to ground, let it sit for 1 hour to discharge the capacitors, then work from there.

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31 minutes ago, TheCoder2019 said:

Why? I mean you could, but I definitely would take everything else out until the loop is replaced. To prevent reseating everything, just unplug your PC, connect it [PSU] to ground, let it sit for 1 hour to discharge the capacitors, then work from there.

I'm not sure I follow. I have to have a PSU plugged into the pump with it jumped in order to push the fluid through when its being replaced. My question is that if I leave the other things plugged into the PSU when doing this can that cause damage from heat for instance because they may not have sufficient fluid running over them at a given interval of flushing and intake. Meaning does the CPU or the GPU actually turn on and generate heat even when the 24-pin isn't plugged into the mobo they're additionally plugged into?

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@shhhIf you do it fast enough and the thermal past is good you should be fine, just enter bios so there’s basically no load for it to heat up. Also, welcome to the forums!

As Someone with the username “</TheCoder2019_”, my coding skills are atrocious.

Here are my specs:

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MSI PRO-VLH H310M

Intel Core i3-8100 (Thanks, @Schnoz!)

GTX 1060 OC 3GB or Intel UHD 630

16GB (2x8) Cosair Vengeance LPX CL16 - 2400MHz

GAMDIAS Argus M1

 

An old friend of mine - Intel stock cooler (temps through the roof like 60 C under load)

 

 

Linux Apps you NEED!

Spoiler

tmux

dhcpd

git

 

 


 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hi! I love RGB! Who doesn't? Karens that don't have colorful lights on their Facebook page

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OP I'm confused... is your case arranged in a way that the 24-pin ATX connector is accessible but the 4/8-pin 12v CPU connector and 6/8-pin 12v GPU connectors aren't? Trying to wrap my head around why unplugging those in addition to the 24-pin would take so much time... 

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8 minutes ago, Natty Ice said:

OP I'm confused... is your case arranged in a way that the 24-pin ATX connector is accessible but the 4/8-pin 12v CPU connector and 6/8-pin 12v GPU connectors aren't? Trying to wrap my head around why unplugging those in addition to the 24-pin would take so much time... 

Yeah my radiator fans are blocking the CPU connector area and I have a shield over the PSU so it makes it really tedious to unplug. Also, thank you - @TheCoder2019!

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10 hours ago, shhh said:

Yeah my radiator fans are blocking the CPU connector area and I have a shield over the PSU so it makes it really tedious to unplug. Also, thank you - @TheCoder2019!

I've definitely burned LED strips doing it the way you describe it, so I would consider definitely worth unplugging everything.

 

A good investment for you may be an external molex power supply, they're less than 20 euros, and then you can power the pump by itself without needing to unplug anything else.

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I would not leave anything plugged in. If you can't reach the EPS connector, just unplug the EPS from the PSU then (in case you have a fully modular PSU). If you jump the PSU by bridging the 24pin every other power cable goes live.

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If im just changing fluid, I dont unplug anything, nor do I jump the psu for the pump. Alot of work for just a fluid swap, I dont even do that on fresh builds. 

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If it is a fluid change, there is no need to unplug everything (assuming your initial leaktest was without problems). before draining the old fluid go to BIOS and set up your pump to the max rpm, save your overclocking profile and set your cpu to factory settings. After that drain the fluid. Next fill in the res and power it on. just to be on the safe side keep one hand on the power switch on the psu so your pump does not run dry and the other on del/F2 key so your cpu does not do any work such as booting up your rig. also if you reset (power off) your pc while booting windows more than 10 times it will boot in the safe mode. It is a much easier to use a separate PSU a simple 12 volts 3 AMP power brick cost around 5 $/euro

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