Jump to content

ZOTAC ZBOX MAGNUS One i7-10700 RTX 3070 Mini PC

Aaron_T

hi from Spain, i bought a thermalright tr-axp90  because i read that it not necesary to remove mainboard and not break the sealed warranty and the select this from noctua for this condition, well i received today and i can see that the only option its remove the mainboard , i cannot use the screw because its not accesible over the radiator, and the i cannot put it and press, any one have photos of the monunt or give any idea for install it and not remove the mainboard?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

other question, i can see on photos two ssd, the case it i used a new nvme sdd for boot, and i tried to put my old ssd not nvme model wd blue 3d nand sata ssd m.2 2289  model wds100t2b0b-00ys70 from my old portatil, but not reconized it on any part of bios and on partition manager on windows, anybody know any issue of it?

thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Hey!

I was lurking this forum on my decision to buy the magnus one and just wanted to briefly mention my results.

 

I ordered the thermalright axp90 and was able to mount it without removing the motherboard. I have never built a computer before, so the first time was a bit finicky but pretty straight forward. I had to re-apply thermal paste twice :S and by the third time I did it, it took 15min and was a breeze. So I'd say it's pretty easy. However the threaded screws are hard to push through the threaded MB holes, so hard to get even pressure for thermal paste spread. Might be good to use the "even spread" method.

 

I also installed two slim noctua fans instead of the case fans. 

 

I undervolted the GPU to c. 1860mhz and c 850mv, good results with less power draw.

 

I had a nasty coil whine but it disappeared after I undervolted the GPU, I guess because the whole system draws less power.

 

After all this the noise was drastically reduced, but I still think the cpu temps were a bit high. I'm still thinking the thermal paste application is bad (given how hard it was to get even pressure, and the right amount of pressure on the cooler).

 

However I noticed that there was a lot of recycling of hot air in the cpu cooler. There is not an effective draw to the top exhaust and a lot of hot air circulates on the cpu side of the case, and gets sucked back into the fan. So I did 2 things:
1. I clipped off the inner honeycomb mesh. I kept the outside frame so the side attaches to the case easily. This made a BIG improvement to airflow. (Tip: take off the inner mesh and blow with your mouth on it with your hand behind it - it stops a lot of air).
2. I bought a noctua fan duct kit and was able to perfectly bridge the gap from the cpu fan to the case, ensuring that no recycled case air is getting in the way and only fresh outside air gets pulled in. It's not 100% perfect because some hot air exits the case below the fan, but it is a big big improvement

 

With these changes, I got a relatively quiet system with good benchmark performance and temps in check.
I currently game squad 1440p max settings, c. 100 fps, cpu temps ~62, gpu temps ~64.

Massive improvement in sound compared to that bonkers stock cooler.

I might remove the inner mesh on the top and gpu side as well seeing how big of a difference it made...

Hope this helps someone!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Hello everyone! Can you tell me if there are instructions for removing the motherboard? Perhaps step by step photos?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi,

For the mother board you have numerous video on youtube that show how to do.

 

On my side I have decided to water cool the CPU as the original heatsink is a noise nightmare. I used a temporary Fractal design CELSIUS+ S28 dynamic. The hole for the screw are the same than the original back plate, htere is only one 4pin PWM plug to use and the radiator and fan can be easily located as a replacement of the two 92mm fan and the upper cover. The pipes are exiting by the rear just under the wifi antenna but i had to remove the 2;5 inch tray to route them inside.

I fixed it with temporary plastic link and the result is very good as the CPU does not throttle anymore, more air is sucked by the 2 140mm fan on the top and the side panels cans still be stay in place (the pump is pushing on the panel on the right side but it fits).

 

I plan to 3D print a support to install all this permanently and adjust the radiator position with upper protections as it is right now totally exposed.

 

The final plan is to watercool the 3070 also and to use a Alphacool eisbear modular system with a 240 or 280 radiator and a specific waterblock for the GPU. My main concern is the capacity of the radiator to exchange all the heat of botch CPU and GPU as the power consumption goes over 500w.

I will make some further investigation onthis solution maybe with thicker radiator and 2 120mm instead of one 240mm to intercool the water before entering the GPU.

 

 

 

I also seek for a 10900k to have the maximum power in the box.

 

FInally i have to check on the PSU noise as iti seems that neaodyme magnet are shaking and make kind of coil noises when gaming.

 

 

 

20220801_152337.jpg

20220801_153345.jpg

20220801_153709.jpg

20220801_153721.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

I have reduced all the noise and made my Magnus one super cool as well. Just do two simple things 1st Replace the stock CPU fan with Thermalright AXP 90 X 36 and 2nd Buy pair of AC Infinity Quiet 120 or 140mm fans(your choice i have 120mm installed) and mount them with the given screws at the both side of Magnus side panels. Really easy and effective and you also don't need to remove motherboard to replace cpu fan like Noctua. (Notice: While mounting AC Infinity fans you have to remove side panels inside grill and then screw the fans and reinstall the inside grills, don't start making any holes in the grill)20220812_194601.thumb.jpg.1fc6f0adbca21e120e86af32be0a31e0.jpg20220812_194606.thumb.jpg.22a4775b9cf7fbb410f281228710da54.jpg20220812_194606.thumb.jpg.22a4775b9cf7fbb410f281228710da54.jpg

20220812_143514.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 5 weeks later...

Hi from Germany. I have since months trouble putting my Magnus into sleep. I tried many solutions tweaking the power settings, the registry editor and the group policy editor, but my machine just refuse to go into sleep mode properly (power light not in breath mode, fan keep spinning) and I could not do anything to "wake it up" either (other than long pressing the power button to shut it down). I wonder if it is related to a hardware issue. Anyone has an idea?

 

FYI I have installed 32GB ram, two m.2 SSDs and a sata ssd.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi  have you tried to restore default setting in bios and make a clean windows installation?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Installed yesterday, I confirm the magnus can handle a I9-10900k.

I had continuous bipping at first install. Get back the I7-10700 with normal working.

Then plug the I9 back and every thing went right (no bipping). With the watercooling (Fractal design CELSIUS+ S28 dynamic)  i do not go over 80°C on stress test.

 

Previously i get tree beep sometimes at startup that do not block windows loading.

I suspect the modification of the ram (2x32go 3200 crucial sodimm) to be involved but as it do not impact performance.

 

I will now try to build a piece to fix the watercooling definitively.

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...

Added a 120mm exhaust fan to remove the GPU Heat. Zotac RTX3070 twin edge has a horizontal air flow and the heat gets trapped at one end while playing games. Most of the space is taken by the CPU side so airflow is poor for GPU. While playing MW2 GPU touches 200W+ and having this bower really helps for both CPU and GPU.

The top side of CPU has RAM slots so there also the air from CPU does not have a direct path but on front side it gets a direct flow channel

IMG_20221227_171252.jpg

IMG_20221227_171231.jpg

1.png

2.png

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi!

I have a Zotac Zbox Magnus One and I would like to change its stock cooler. I have seen several posts with different coolers such as Noctua NL-9i, Coolermaster G200P or AXP90-X36. I just don't want to lose the warranty, so the one from Noctua would not really be an option at the moment, so I would take the g200p or AXP90-X36. I want to get rid of the sound of the stock one, but if it is possible to have a difference of a few degrees 3-5.

I also found a Jonsbo HP400 cooler that has 4 heatpipes, but I don't know if it would fit into the PC and if it had to be mounted like the one from Noctua. Has anyone tried this cooler?

image.thumb.png.0eb041fa041cc92e6e9aaf494c99dfba.png

image.thumb.png.b66d4ab956119625d4d6e83b0d6e12f5.png

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 5 weeks later...
On 12/27/2022 at 7:53 PM, FriscaIsLife said:

Hi!

I have a Zotac Zbox Magnus One and I would like to change its stock cooler. I have seen several posts with different coolers such as Noctua NL-9i, Coolermaster G200P or AXP90-X36. I just don't want to lose the warranty, so the one from Noctua would not really be an option at the moment, so I would take the g200p or AXP90-X36. I want to get rid of the sound of the stock one, but if it is possible to have a difference of a few degrees 3-5.

I also found a Jonsbo HP400 cooler that has 4 heatpipes, but I don't know if it would fit into the PC and if it had to be mounted like the one from Noctua. Has anyone tried this cooler?

image.thumb.png.0eb041fa041cc92e6e9aaf494c99dfba.png

image.thumb.png.b66d4ab956119625d4d6e83b0d6e12f5.png

Jonsbo HP400 does not fit if you have SSD. You can use it but without ssd attached.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi everyone,

 

I also would like to change this very loud fan, however I don't want to cancel my guarantee so it is important to use original backplate instead of taking the mainboard out.

So, similar with the method of @lifecom , I bought a Supermicro Passive 1U heatsink on ebay. It can be easly found around 8-9 Euros.

This is the heatsink that I bought:

 

spacer.png

 

However the main problem is to attach fan on this heatsink. This is a passive heatsink and no chance to attach any fan on top of it. So I decided to use aluminium wire that I found in amazon

 

https://www.amazon.de/dp/B09PBMT77P?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

 

 

spacer.png

 

spacer.png

 

spacer.png

 

first I tried with Noctua NF-A9x14 PWM 92x92mm fan with 14mm height.

https://www.amazon.de/dp/B009NQM7V2?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

 

27mm heatsink + 14mm fan = 43mm total height and can close the case

 

spacer.png

 

It fits perfectly and works well however I decided to chose bigger fan for more air capacity and to cool VRM heatsink down too. So I changed Noctua to ARCTIC P12 Slim PWM PST 120x120mm fan, same 14mm height.

https://www.amazon.de/dp/B08QDKGCCW?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

 

And after all, it fits perfectly again;

spacer.png

 

Now, max heat (during gameplays) is around 70°C and far more silent than the original fan.

spacer.png

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

I hope not too off-topic. 
 

I am looking to house a USB Licence Key internal to the Zotac Magnus One.

 

Any suggestions ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

On 1/28/2023 at 1:39 PM, Suresh Madan said:

I hope not too off-topic. 
 

I am looking to house a USB Licence Key internal to the Zotac Magnus One.

 

Any suggestions ?

You could give up the Wifi, or a drive slot and use something like this: https://a.co/d/4R4gEKp

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi everyone, I didn't bother with CPU cooling so far but I was eager to upgrade the RTX3070 to a RTX A5000 on my system.

 

I had to remove the front (plastic clips for the cover and 4 screws for the metal plate).

 

With the open front I was able to install a RTX A5000 GPU (24GB VRAM YYEAHHH) with 230w TDP.

4C62AFC5-1FF9-4512-B7A8-AC76993B5747.jpg

 

 

The card is running fine and I am planning to print an "extension" so the front gets back on it.

 

And last but not least: if you remove the front you get a lot better thermals, since the open design of the RTX3070 traps a lot of heat near the front, which is not sucked out by the top fans.

IMG_2285.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

On 1/30/2023 at 5:08 AM, Aaron_T said:

You could give up the Wifi, or a drive slot and use something like this: https://a.co/d/4R4gEKp

Thanks. 
 

Unfortunately I can’t spare either of the 2 M.2 Drive slots. I could sacrifice the WiFi antenna which I don’t need in my application but that’s an M.2 Key E slot. And I haven’t been able to find a similar adaptor for the same.

 

I can’t see any USB headers on the MB either to which I could have attached a whip. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

On 12/27/2022 at 12:58 PM, apoorv1in said:

Added a 120mm exhaust fan to remove the GPU Heat. Zotac RTX3070 twin edge has a horizontal air flow and the heat gets trapped at one end while playing games. Most of the space is taken by the CPU side so airflow is poor for GPU. While playing MW2 GPU touches 200W+ and having this bower really helps for both CPU and GPU.

The top side of CPU has RAM slots so there also the air from CPU does not have a direct path but on front side it gets a direct flow channel

 

Would you mind sharing the print files? I would like to copy your setup!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
On 1/31/2023 at 2:47 AM, fl0w said:

Hi everyone, I didn't bother with CPU cooling so far but I was eager to upgrade the RTX3070 to a RTX A5000 on my system.

 

I had to remove the front (plastic clips for the cover and 4 screws for the metal plate).

 

With the open front I was able to install a RTX A5000 GPU (24GB VRAM YYEAHHH) with 230w TDP.

4C62AFC5-1FF9-4512-B7A8-AC76993B5747.jpg

 

 

The card is running fine and I am planning to print an "extension" so the front gets back on it.

 

And last but not least: if you remove the front you get a lot better thermals, since the open design of the RTX3070 traps a lot of heat near the front, which is not sucked out by the top fans.

IMG_2285.JPG

Hi @fl0w

 

Did you get down to printing that “extension” ? Would love to see some images and get your feedback on the performance upgrade. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

* Changed CPU fan to AXP90 X36, it was quick and painless, removing old fan and gpu (1 screw, that's all).

* Removed internal meshes from both sides, added some small pieces of metal to make it hang to the chassis

 

Now device is silent under low load and still noisy when gaming. The most loud part is now GPU fans. Do you know any mods to the zotac gpu fans (i have 3070) ?

 

IMG_20230219_201607.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

On 12/27/2022 at 12:58 PM, apoorv1in said:

Added a 120mm exhaust fan to remove the GPU Heat. Zotac RTX3070 twin edge has a horizontal air flow and the heat gets trapped at one end while playing games. Most of the space is taken by the CPU side so airflow is poor for GPU. While playing MW2 GPU touches 200W+ and having this bower really helps for both CPU and GPU.

The top side of CPU has RAM slots so there also the air from CPU does not have a direct path but on front side it gets a direct flow channel

IMG_20221227_171252.jpg

IMG_20221227_171231.jpg

1.png

2.png

thanks for the share

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5850918

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
On 1/31/2023 at 4:04 PM, fl0w said:

 

Would you mind sharing the print files? I would like to copy your setup!

 

check the video description in youtube you will find download link

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi All,

I sold the Zotac Twin Edge 3070 because i got lucky and bought a 3070Ti Founders Edition at MRP!. As we know the 3070Ti FE cannot fit inside the case so at first i kept the gpu outside the case. Now i have removed the front panel and created a hole in the steel panel of case to let the GPU pop-out.

image.jpeg.638ff0ae628f3d882d96766aac62774d.jpeg

This was giving the best temperatures as it was open, but caused too much hassle when moving it.

 

I want to print a front panel but have no access to 3d printer.

image.jpeg

image.jpeg

4.jpeg

5.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

On 1/31/2023 at 2:47 AM, fl0w said:

Hi everyone, I didn't bother with CPU cooling so far but I was eager to upgrade the RTX3070 to a RTX A5000 on my system.

 

I had to remove the front (plastic clips for the cover and 4 screws for the metal plate).

 

With the open front I was able to install a RTX A5000 GPU (24GB VRAM YYEAHHH) with 230w TDP.

4C62AFC5-1FF9-4512-B7A8-AC76993B5747.jpg

 

 

The card is running fine and I am planning to print an "extension" so the front gets back on it.

 

And last but not least: if you remove the front you get a lot better thermals, since the open design of the RTX3070 traps a lot of heat near the front, which is not sucked out by the top fans.

IMG_2285.JPG

Have you printed a extension for front panel. I would suggest to add a small exhaust fan(62mm) above GPU and shift power button below the sd card reader. I have done the same mod but installed the steel panel and the temps are very bad.

image.jpeg

Edited by maz cool
adding photo
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


×