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CPU de-lidding question

Using i9 10900k.

 

After you delid the CPU, do you leave the lid off when you attach the waterblock, or do you have to put it back on?

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4 minutes ago, boxfox said:

Using i9 10900k.

 

After you delid the CPU, do you leave the lid off when you attach the waterblock, or do you have to put it back on?

Put the lid back on. There's a high chance you will crack the die.

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no need to delid a 10900k. The SIM they use is optimized and actually decent, plus its soldered so you stand a high degree chance of damaging your CPU DIE during the deliding process. 

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47 minutes ago, Skiiwee29 said:

no need to delid a 10900k. The SIM they use is optimized and actually decent, plus its soldered so you stand a high degree chance of damaging your CPU DIE during the deliding process. 

It's actually pretty easy to get the lid off with the right tool.  Takes a few minutes.  Testing is showing 5-10C cooler temps under load with liquid metal paste, too, which seems pretty worth it.

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42 minutes ago, boxfox said:

It's actually pretty easy to get the lid off with the right tool.  Takes a few minutes.  Testing is showing 5-10C cooler temps under load with liquid metal paste, too, which seems pretty worth it.

I respectfully disagree, and so does Der8auer. 

 

 

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7 hours ago, Skiiwee29 said:

I respectfully disagree, and so does Der8auer. 

 

 

That was the first delidding video I watched. He got a 7 degree improvement and he was only using a 360 rad, plus he didn't even switch to a copper IHS.  I'm expecting closer to double that with lower room ambient, a copper IHS, and 840mm of additional radiator.
That's worth it for me, since I'll be pushing the CPU harder than he did.

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9 minutes ago, boxfox said:

That was the first delidding video I watched. He got a 7 degree improvement and he was only using a 360 rad, plus he didn't even switch to a copper IHS.  I'm expecting closer to double that with lower room ambient, a copper IHS, and 840mm of additional radiator.
That's worth it for me, since I'll be pushing the CPU harder than he did.

I don't recommend using a copper IHS, it makes the liquid metal application a bit more short-lasting and needs a re-application (or an over-initial application). You can get the same benefits just by using the stock IHS or even better, lap the stock IHS on the cooler side, so that you still have nickel on the die side.

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5 hours ago, For Science! said:

I don't recommend using a copper IHS, it makes the liquid metal application a bit more short-lasting and needs a re-application (or an over-initial application). You can get the same benefits just by using the stock IHS or even better, lap the stock IHS on the cooler side, so that you still have nickel on the die side.

That's interesting, I hadn't heard that it can shorten the lifespan of the thermal compound.  Thanks for that head's up.

Can you please point me to the source of the info so I can do more research?

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6 minutes ago, boxfox said:

That's interesting, I hadn't heard that it can shorten the lifespan of the thermal compound.  Thanks for that head's up.

Can you please point me to the source of the info so I can do more research?

https://www.gamersnexus.net/guides/3362-how-liquid-metal-affects-copper-nickel-and-aluminum-corrosion-test

 

While they conclude that 

Quote

Copper is also mostly OK. It will stain with Conductonaut (heavily), but performance remains the same. We have not tested other liquid metals with copper yet.

That's when there was enough applied in the first place, I have definitely seen posts on this forum where enough migration happened to cause a detriment in performance. Colloquially mentioned as liquid metal "drying out", although in reality its more of an absorption like behavour.

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4 minutes ago, For Science! said:

https://www.gamersnexus.net/guides/3362-how-liquid-metal-affects-copper-nickel-and-aluminum-corrosion-test

 

While they conclude that 

That's when there was enough applied in the first place, I have definitely seen posts on this forum where enough migration happened to cause a detriment in performance. Colloquially mentioned as liquid metal "drying out", although in reality its more of an absorption like behavour.

That's perfect, I'm actually 1/2 way through that video right now, lol.  Thanks for the input, I'll keep checking it out.

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- Intel ISH is copper but nickel plated, so there is not much difference between the aftermarket one and the original, to make better contact with the waterblock you are better off to lap the original IHS

- 5.2 gHz is nice but the performance difference between 5.0 and 5.2 is minimal in real life usage, but the difference in temp is huge. you are better of to keep the original intel IHS without deliding the the CPU and run it at the frequency and voltage that delivers the most comfortable temp of your liking.

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