COMPUTER KEEPS CRASHING

[CharminUltraStrong]

Hey! Trying to help a friend whose computer is constantly crashing in game and during certain tasks within windows. System specs are as follows

i9 9900K, RTX 2080TI AORUS EXTREME, Z390 ROG HERO, 32GB DDR4, 750W PSU, Full custom watercooling loop with 1 XSPC D5 Pump, 4 RGB strips and 13 fans.

 

 

Added extra details so we can narrow down whether it's a GPU issue, driver issue or power delivery issue, i.e. needs a more powerful PSU. The events state "Display driver nvlddmkm stopped responding and has successfully recovered." with a "The Desktop Window Manager process has exited. (Process exit code: 0x000000ff, Restart count: 7, Primary display device ID: NVIDIA GeForce RTX 2080 Ti)" error posting.

 

We've done DDU clean installs, roll backs, full DDU's with manual installs, downclocking etc. Everything was working fine up until recently, this issue has only occurred within the past couple weeks and only permits him the ability to play certain games. Valorant runs perfectly fine, though it is CPU bound and seriously de-tuned so that is expected. ModernWarfare forget about it, crashes within minutes. Also this is a fresh windows install, on a new drive, new key and all.

[Dedayog]

Try another PSU, it may be a power issue to the GPU.  

 

Also it may be the GPU failing or a component of it.  

 

Either way you're looking at the GPU itself or the power coming to it.

[CharminUltraStrong]

Just now, jstudrawa said:

Try another PSU, it may be a power issue to the GPU.  

 

Also it may be the GPU failing or a component of it.  

 

Either way you're looking at the GPU itself or the power coming to it.

That's what I figured, he'll probably pick up a 1000w something or other to eliminate any possibilities. My main concern is this has only started within a couple weeks, it was a recent upgrade from a 1080ti. In the event it's an RMA issue, he's sunk because of the custom loop.

[BobVonBob]

Just now, CharminUltraStrong said:

That's what I figured, he'll probably pick up a 1000w something or other to eliminate any possibilities. My main concern is this has only started within a couple weeks, it was a recent upgrade from a 1080ti. In the event it's an RMA issue, he's sunk because of the custom loop.

That's when you put the stock cooler back on to ship it back and don't mention anything about it.

[Dedayog]

4 minutes ago, CharminUltraStrong said:

That's what I figured, he'll probably pick up a 1000w something or other to eliminate any possibilities. My main concern is this has only started within a couple weeks, it was a recent upgrade from a 1080ti. In the event it's an RMA issue, he's sunk because of the custom loop.

They don 't need to know about the custom loop...

 

Sure, tho why he'd get a 1000w PSU is beyond me.  Whatever works I guess.  750+ would be fine.

[CharminUltraStrong]

2 minutes ago, BobVonBob said:

That's when you put the stock cooler back on to ship it back and don't mention anything about it.

That'd be great if putting a GPU block on your card didn't mean slicing through warranty void stickers.

[Dedayog]

1 minute ago, CharminUltraStrong said:

That'd be great if putting a GPU block on your card didn't mean slicing through warranty void stickers.

Where does he live?  Those stickers only hold water in certain regions.  

 

 

[CharminUltraStrong]

2 minutes ago, jstudrawa said:

They don 't need to know about the custom loop...

 

Sure, tho why he'd get a 1000w PSU is beyond me.  Whatever works I guess.  650+ would be fine.

They don't but when you put a water block on you have to go through warranty stickers. 650+ is fine according to PCPP but that leaves out 13 fans, d5 pump, lighting etc. For a regular i9 x 2080ti system a 750 should be sufficient regardless but perhaps the extras are pushing it. 1000w psus are, on avg. 170$ or so for a decent PSU which isn't a whole lot. 

[CharminUltraStrong]

Just now, jstudrawa said:

Where does he live?  Those stickers only hold water in certain regions.  

 

 

United States.

[CharminUltraStrong]

They shouldn't hold ground here, but forcing them to do it is very time consuming and very difficult.

[Huntsman]

If you suspect it's the GPU.. maybe swap it out to another system (maybe yours) to do some cross elimination?

[Dedayog]

1 minute ago, CharminUltraStrong said:

They shouldn't hold ground here, but forcing them to do it is very time consuming and very difficult.

Then he's screwed, if he's giving up that easily. 

 

Hope it's just the PSU then.

 

 

[CharminUltraStrong]

10 minutes ago, jstudrawa said:

Then he's screwed, if he's giving up that easily. 

 

Hope it's just the PSU then.

 

 

Define screwed, sounds like it'd just be a pain in the arse to leave a GPU with them for months, to what avail? At that point he'd rather just buy a 3080ti when they release, besides downtime means no work because that puts a hole in his loop. The loop would have to be re-run for CPU only. Regardless, there isn't a way to test the card in another system, looking to determine what could cause these errors.

[EFletch]

22 minutes ago, jstudrawa said:

Then he's screwed, if he's giving up that easily. 

 

Hope it's just the PSU then.

 

 

Hi, I am the friend he is writing about. I appreciate the idea of removing the card, but quite frankly there is no simple or efficient way to accomplish this currently. I do not have a PC or setup in the house that could accommodate the card, even if I did I would need to remove the block from the video just to test it long enough to get a real answer from a second PC that could even hold/run it. Not to mention I would need to drain my system completely in the mean time, which is not a huge issue. Sending back to the MFR is a longshot at best, best case scenario it spends months at the warehouse with me arguing daily via email to get them to look into it, and or fix it. Quite frankly the downtime that this would cause me is literally not worth it. 

I 100% would like to find a solution to this that doesn't involve me buying anything, but the idea of sending a card off for weeks to months would likely result in me just buying a new card as whole, which VERY WELL may not fix anything. I personally am leaning towards this being software related.. PSU was an initial thought, but it all reality I don't think its the case, I have this running stable for upwards of 2-3 weeks with no crashes and no physical changes to the system since then. I feel like we have skipped over providing any ideas and insight on the software side of this issue to criticize the idea of running a 1000w PSU and criticize what you feel is my "effort level" in this situation.

[Dedayog]

1 minute ago, EFletch said:

Hi, I am the friend he is writing about. I appreciate the idea of removing the card, but quite frankly there is no simple or efficient way to accomplish this currently. I do not have a PC or setup in the house that could accommodate the card, even if I did I would need to remove the block from the video just to test it long enough to get a real answer from a second PC that could even hold/run it. Not to mention I would need to drain my system completely in the mean time, which is not a huge issue. Sending back to the MFR is a longshot at best, best case scenario it spends months at the warehouse with me arguing daily via email to get them to look into it, and or fix it. Quite frankly the downtime that this would cause me is literally not worth it. 

I 100% would like to find a solution to this that doesn't involve me buying anything, but the idea of sending a card off for weeks to months would likely result in me just buying a new card as whole, which VERY WELL may not fix anything. I personally am leaning towards this being software related.. PSU was an initial thought, but it all reality I don't think its the case, I have this running stable for upwards of 2-3 weeks with no crashes and no physical changes to the system since then. I feel like we have skipped over providing any ideas and insight on the software side of this issue to criticize the idea of running a 1000w PSU and criticize what you feel is my "effort level" in this situation.

Firstly, feel however you want. 

 

Secondly, I did offer options as to find the cause of the issues.  Namely the PSU or GPU.  Either one can be removed or replaced without serious issue to test a new item.  There really isn't an excuse not to try swapping out each, as you are already looking at upgrading to the 3XXX series upon release.  Gotta be done sometime, right?

 

Also, to your point...  the 1000w PSU purchase was mentioned not by myself, and in a way offhandedly like "Oh he can afford it".  Not to mention the "it's too much trouble to RMA a $1200 GPU, I'll just buy a new one" crap.  Months of them holding it, and daily emails?   That's not how it works, I've RMA'd many an item including GPUs.  They get it,they test it, they deny or allow the RMA.  Done.

 

 You were given things to try and if you don't want to do them, not much we can do.  

 

You've covered the DDU, fresh Windows, etc.  So sofware is a non-issue.  It's hardware.  GPU or PSU.  You know what to scientifically test, do it or dont.

 

 

[WkdPaul]

* thread cleaned *

 

@EFletch please read the Community Standards, help and suggestions was provided, if you think it's software related, then please supply the details you think points to this since the OP stated that DDU and fresh install was already done (and so logically, this rules out software issues).

[Hilltrot]

2 hours ago, wkdpaul said:

DDU and fresh install was already done (and so logically, this rules out software issues).

I don't think this is true 

 

I believe a sure way to "eliminate"  non-inherent software problems is to securely erase all connected drives through the bios setup.  After this, reinstall from scratch using a clean copy of Windows 10.  Update Windows.  Download the latest graphics driver.  Download the game which is giving you problems and then see if the problems persists.  Then I'll be relatively sure that the problem is not software-related.

 

Otherwise, one has to know all the programs, dlls, viruses, etc which are on his drive.  And I don't think he has even bothered to tell us what games he is running.  There are too many programs on Windows which can cause problems.  

On 5/4/2020 at 2:13 PM, EFletch said:

Sending back to the MFR is a longshot at best, best case scenario it spends months at the warehouse with me arguing daily via email to get them to look into it, and or fix it.

Most manufacturers have no problems replacing the card as long as the problem was not caused by user error.  Are you hiding something we don't know about.  Did you damage the card?

 

On 5/4/2020 at 1:43 PM, Huntsman said:

If you suspect it's the GPU.. maybe swap it out to another system (maybe yours) to do some cross elimination?

 

I think this is an excellent suggestion and before chasing down nebulous software errors, you seem to have the ability to check and see if the graphics card works by simply checking it in another system.  And while it may take some time to put the air-cooler back on, you'll have to do that anyway for an RMA.

[WkdPaul]

45 minutes ago, Hilltrot said:

I don't think this is true 

 

I believe a sure way to "eliminate"  non-inherent software problems is to securely erase all connected drives through the bios setup.  After this, reinstall from scratch using a clean copy of Windows 10.  Update Windows.  Download the latest graphics driver.  Download the game which is giving you problems and then see if the problems persists.  Then I'll be relatively sure that the problem is not software-related.

 

Otherwise, one has to know all the programs, dlls, viruses, etc which are on his drive.  And I don't think he has even bothered to tell us what games he is running.  There are too many programs on Windows which can cause problems.

OP said this is a fresh Windows install ... I assume they mean Windows was reinstalled since the issues started, if that's not the case, then yeah, they need to do more troubleshooting (that's what my comment was implying when I said fresh install, I was talking about Windows, not the drivers).

Edited May 5, 2020 by wkdpaul

[Hilltrot]

1 minute ago, wkdpaul said:

What ?????

 

He said a clean install of Windows 10 was done ... Do you know what that means or implies?

There are three options for a "clean" windows install.  You can leave all your programs. files. data, and viruses in a "clean install".  So usually I ask specifically what type of clean install they were trying.

On 5/4/2020 at 1:26 PM, CharminUltraStrong said:

Also this is a fresh windows install, on a new drive, new key and all.

 

I missed this. I apologize.

 

 

[WkdPaul]

2 minutes ago, Hilltrot said:

There are three options for a "clean" windows install.  You can leave all your programs. files. data, and viruses in a "clean install".  So usually I ask specifically what type of clean install they were trying.

If someone does a reset and calls it a fresh install, they are wrong.

 

Fresh install = (at the very least) deletion of all partition and an complete install from an install media. Formatting the drive works too.

 

Anyone that says they did a clean install but went through the reset option needs to learn a thing or two  Make sure to correct them when helping. Not communicating correctly in cases like this one can lead to further issues.

 

[EFletch]

15 hours ago, wkdpaul said:

If someone does a reset and calls it a fresh install, they are wrong.

 

Fresh install = (at the very least) deletion of all partition and an complete install from an install media. Formatting the drive works too.

 

Anyone that says they did a clean install but went through the reset option needs to learn a thing or two  Make sure to correct them when helping. Not communicating correctly in cases like this one can lead to further issues.

 

Yes in all fairness this is not a fresh install in the sense that since these issues I have reinstalled windows, I am not exactly looking to reinstall windows but for the sake of troubleshooting I will likely install windows on to my 2nd drive boot from that and see if the problem persists. He eluded to a fresh install as to the point that windows is just a few weeks old and it was not happening prior, so I will  knock this out as an option. 

As stated as well, the card is not damaged physically though the block is on it, and as stated I would very likely not explore the option of sending this card back to the MFG, at least not until I have something in the PC to hold it down in the mean time. I simply cannot be without a video card, my system without quite a bit of modification can not run without this particular video card (downsides to a custom loop). I work from home using this PC and have only encountered the specific issue maybe 1-2 times outside of running a game, so I can get what I need done on it, it just drives me insane trying to play any game. 

I did not mean to personally come off as sound as if I just don't care and don't want to troubleshoot, but as someone who makes a good living from their computer my point is the hassle of removing my card and waiting however long for the process while hoping they cover it is just not entirely plausible at the moment. I do plan to upgrade my card the moment the 3XXX series comes out, and if I isolate this issue to the GPU itself at that point I will likely RMA it and sell the replacement card. I have a 4 year MFG warranty with the card 

[WkdPaul]

5 minutes ago, EFletch said:

*snip*

Best thing is to do a fresh install of Windows to see if the issue persists, if that's the case, it's most likely a hardware issue.

 

Doing it on a spare drive would be most efficient since if it proves to be a hardware issue, you still have your original install.