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Can someone tell me the exact name of this part?

Flash_xx
By Flash_xx
in Graphics Cards
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Go to solution Solved by PineyCreek,

Looks like a power inductor:

 

https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&url=https%3A%2F%2Fm.yoycart.com%2FProduct%2F17625246813%2F&psig=AOvVaw0VAf11QAucuiVRJ207IFZR&ust=1581299496973000&source=images&cd=vfe&ved=0CAIQjRxqFwoTCICP8fGtw-cCFQAAAAAdAAAAABAE

Posted

EVGA 1080TI. Fan spins but no video out. Took it apart and found this part broken. Can someone give me the exact part name so I can order a replacement? Or should I just get a donor card in case something else went?

20200208_213703.jpg

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Posted

that round coil seems to tell that it's an inductor, usually don't break unless something has gone nuclear. Nothing burnt or melted away?

CPU: i7-2600K 4751MHz 1.44V (software) --> 1.47V at the back of the socket Motherboard: Asrock Z77 Extreme4 (BCLK: 103.3MHz) CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 RAM: Adata XPG 2x8GB DDR3 (XMP: 2133MHz 10-11-11-30 CR2, custom: 2203MHz 10-11-10-26 CR1 tRFC:230 tREFI:14000) GPU: Asus GTX 1070 Dual (Super Jetstream vbios, +70(2025-2088MHz)/+400(8.8Gbps)) SSD: Samsung 840 Pro 256GB (main boot drive), Transcend SSD370 128GB PSU: Seasonic X-660 80+ Gold Case: Antec P110 Silent, 5 intakes 1 exhaust Monitor: AOC G2460PF 1080p 144Hz (150Hz max w/ DP, 121Hz max w/ HDMI) TN panel Keyboard: Logitech G610 Orion (Cherry MX Blue) with SteelSeries Apex M260 keycaps Mouse: BenQ Zowie FK1

 

Model: HP Omen 17 17-an110ca CPU: i7-8750H (0.125V core & cache, 50mV SA undervolt) GPU: GTX 1060 6GB Mobile (+80/+450, 1650MHz~1750MHz 0.78V~0.85V) RAM: 8+8GB DDR4-2400 18-17-17-39 2T Storage: HP EX920 1TB PCIe x4 M.2 SSD + Crucial MX500 1TB 2.5" SATA SSD, 128GB Toshiba PCIe x2 M.2 SSD (KBG30ZMV128G) gone cooking externally, 1TB Seagate 7200RPM 2.5" HDD (ST1000LM049-2GH172) left outside Monitor: 1080p 126Hz IPS G-sync

 

Desktop benching:

Cinebench R15 Single thread:168 Multi-thread: 833 

SuperPi (v1.5 from Techpowerup, PI value output) 16K: 0.100s 1M: 8.255s 32M: 7m 45.93s

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Posted
7 minutes ago, Jurrunio said:

that round coil seems to tell that it's an inductor, usually don't break unless something has gone nuclear. Nothing burnt or melted away?

That shear line kind of looks like physical damage from an external source (dropped just right on something, etc.).

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Posted

TLDR: contains no part data. Talks only about replacement.


My memory is that soldered part replacement on boards is a PITA. A doable PITA, but not simple. If you’re up for it you’re up for it of course.  There are several techniques used requiring various kinds of equipment.


The most common move with such things if one is not, is to sell the card as broken at a massive discount on eBay where some board refurbished will buy it, replace the part, get it working, and sell it as refurbished.  

Not a pro, not even very good.  I’m just old and have time currently.  Assuming I know a lot about computers can be a mistake.

 

Life is like a bowl of chocolates: there are all these little crinkly paper cups everywhere.

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Posted
  • Author

Thanks for the replies. Card has some sentimental value. Was given to me by my nephew who passed away February 15 of last year. It was not dropped. It started overheating, the fans shot to 100% and I shut down pc. Would not display image on reboot. I'll check to see if there's any other visible damage. I have someone who can do any repairs, just need the part(s)

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  • 4 months later...
Posted
  • Author

Well, the saga continues. Finally got some time to look at the card again. I went through it with magnifying glasses and found the Mosfet circled in red loose and missing a leg. Looks like it shorted. Hoping this is the cause. Only engraving on chip is LP. Card is an EVGA 1080 ti FE. I have a headache from going through the Mouser database. Found a few candidates, but without exact values I can't order the part. Anyone know which part number this is?

NVIDIA-GeForce-GTX-1080-Ti-Founders-Edition-PCB_Back.jpg

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Posted

As for your inductor, the 1R0 rating and the physical size is pretty much all you need to know for that i would have thought. However if tis just the ceramic thats broken, it might well work okay.

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8 hours ago, Aragorn- said:

You get catalogues of SMD identifiers:

 

http://www.s-manuals.com/smd/lp

 

This one suggests various possibilities for "LP", one being an SOT23 N Channet FET. No guarantees that its right, but its worth a try if the footprint matches up.

Thank you! Getting closer. 

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