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First Gaming Build Mid/High Unsure What I’m Doing

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Not the best value for money gpu, but still works out less than your build. You could still save cash by going with my original suggestions though.

 

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 3700X 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor  (£309.18 @ Aria PC) 
CPU Cooler: Scythe Mugen 5 51.17 CFM CPU Cooler  (£51.65 @ Overclockers.co.uk) 
Motherboard: MSI B450 TOMAHAWK MAX ATX AM4 Motherboard  (£106.95 @ Amazon UK) 
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory  (£135.97 @ Aria PC) 
Storage: Sabrent Rocket 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive  (£109.99 @ Amazon UK) 
Storage: Toshiba P300 3 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive  (£66.00 @ CCL Computers) 
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce RTX 2080 SUPER 8 GB GAMING OC Video Card  (£693.18 @ Aria PC) 
Case: Fractal Design Meshify C ATX Mid Tower Case  (£89.99 @ PC World) 
Power Supply: Corsair RMx (2018) 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply  (£88.98 @ AWD-IT) 
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit  (£83.00 @ Amazon UK) 
Total: £1734.89
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-10-06 01:18 BST+0100

Budget and location (U.K.)

Budget is between £1500 & £2000 and that’s just for the PC. Monitor and peripherals are secondary and while I have an idea I welcome suggestions.


Aim

Web browsing/Gaming/Odd Videos but mainly for gaming and a variety. I enjoy Overwatch, Total War and Borderlands to give an idea. I will not be streaming or uploading. 
 

Monitors

1x Vertical and 1x Horizontal at 1440p 27”

Been eying up the Samsung CFG70 VA Panel as a good contender. I have issues with IPS and TN with ether being too much (bleed) or too little colour.

 

Peripherals

Probably a Ducky and mouse wise it’s likely going to be Logitech. 
 

Why are you upgrading

I used to have a ASUS gaming laptop, I did a lot of travelling with my old job. It died nearly two years back now. But settling down and actually having space to make a PC it seems like the perfect opportunity. Thanks in advance.

 

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 3700X 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor  (£309.18 @ Aria PC) 
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15S 82.52 CFM CPU Cooler  (£71.11 @ Amazon UK) 
Motherboard: Asus TUF GAMING X570-PLUS (WI-FI) ATX AM4 Motherboard  (£230.47 @ Scan.co.uk) 
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory  (£159.18 @ Aria PC) 
Storage: Samsung 970 Evo Plus 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive  (£190.97 @ Laptops Direct) 
Storage: Toshiba P300 3 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive  (£66.00 @ CCL Computers) 
Video Card: Sapphire Radeon RX 5700 XT 8 GB NITRO+ Video Card  (£453.48 @ Ebuyer) 
Case: Fractal Design Meshify S2 ATX Mid Tower Case  (£139.97 @ More Computers) 
Power Supply: SeaSonic PRIME Ultra Titanium 750 W 80+ Titanium Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply  (£195.46 @ Scan.co.uk) 
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit  (£83.00 @ Amazon UK) 
Total: £1898.82
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-10-05 23:49 BST+0100

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You could save tons of money in that build.

 

If you are mainly gaming then an R5 3600/X would do fine.

 

There are cheaper coolers that would work fine for less cash like the Arctic Freezer 34 esports duo or Scythe Mugen 5 etc.

 

A B450 board like the MSI B450 Tomahawk MAX is much cheaper. If you need wifi then you can always add an adapter.

 

You should be fine with 16GB Ram.

 

A Sabrent Rocket 1TB is about £80 cheaper.

 

That case is nice but doesn't really offer much over the regular meshify if you are just going with an air cooled build. 

 

No need to spend nearly £200 on a psu. Something like a Corsair RMx 550W/650W is more than enough.

 

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Saved you over 250 EU monies by just swapping out some parts. Power supplies, SSDs, and RAM are those things that just depend on the day, the pricing changes so much. Just please don't spend 195 on that PSU or SSD at any time lol. Also, listen to the advice above. Granted I picked the 750W PSU because it happens to be cheaper than the 650W today. You can probably knock off another 300+ if you drop down to a 3600/3600X, a cooler, 16GB of RAM, MoBo, case.

My Build, v2.1 --- CPU: i7-8700K @ 5.2GHz/1.288v || MoBo: Asus ROG STRIX Z390-E Gaming || RAM: 4x4GB G.SKILL Ripjaws 4 2666 14-14-14-33 || Cooler: Custom Loop || GPU: EVGA GTX 1080 Ti SC Black, on water || PSU: EVGA G2 850W || Case: Corsair 450D || SSD: 850 Evo 250GB, Intel 660p 2TB || Storage: WD Blue 2TB || G502 & Glorious PCGR Fully Custom 80% Keyboard || MX34VQ, PG278Q, PB278Q

Audio --- Headphones: Massdrop x Sennheiser HD 6XX || Amp: Schiit Audio Magni 3 || DAC: Schiit Audio Modi 3 || Mic: Blue Yeti

 

[Under Construction]

 

My Truck --- 2002 F-350 7.3 Powerstroke || 6-speed

My Car --- 2006 Mustang GT || 5-speed || BBK LTs, O/R X, MBRP Cat-back || BBK Lowering Springs, LCAs || 2007 GT500 wheels w/ 245s/285s

 

The Experiment --- CPU: i5-3570K @ 4.0 GHz || MoBo: Asus P8Z77-V LK || RAM: 16GB Corsair 1600 4x4 || Cooler: CM Hyper 212 Evo || GPUs: Asus GTX 750 Ti, || PSU: Corsair TX750M Gold || Case: Thermaltake Core G21 TG || SSD: 840 Pro 128GB || HDD: Seagate Barracuda 2TB

 

R.I.P. Asus X99-A motherboard, April 2016 - October 2018, may you rest in peace. 5820K, if I ever buy you a new board, it'll be a good one.

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Not the best value for money gpu, but still works out less than your build. You could still save cash by going with my original suggestions though.

 

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 3700X 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor  (£309.18 @ Aria PC) 
CPU Cooler: Scythe Mugen 5 51.17 CFM CPU Cooler  (£51.65 @ Overclockers.co.uk) 
Motherboard: MSI B450 TOMAHAWK MAX ATX AM4 Motherboard  (£106.95 @ Amazon UK) 
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory  (£135.97 @ Aria PC) 
Storage: Sabrent Rocket 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive  (£109.99 @ Amazon UK) 
Storage: Toshiba P300 3 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive  (£66.00 @ CCL Computers) 
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce RTX 2080 SUPER 8 GB GAMING OC Video Card  (£693.18 @ Aria PC) 
Case: Fractal Design Meshify C ATX Mid Tower Case  (£89.99 @ PC World) 
Power Supply: Corsair RMx (2018) 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply  (£88.98 @ AWD-IT) 
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit  (£83.00 @ Amazon UK) 
Total: £1734.89
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-10-06 01:18 BST+0100

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Where did you buy Windows? I do not buy licenses in third-party online stores. I assume that if you buy a license not in the Microsoft store, then it can be faked. You cannot verify this. And since it is faked, then why give money for it? I do not see the point.

Windows Home is not a good system. Even on Windows 10 Professional, not all programs run. Best of all is Windows 10 Enterprise.
http://techgenix.com/windows-10-pro-vs-enterprise-teardown/
And how will you resist virus attacks?) I personally format the disk, reinstall the cracked Windows every week. I have very few viruses on my computer.
This licensed system only causes damage. You bought it and you will not delete it. Antiviruses against new viruses do not help. Only viruses cut off the entire periphery from viruses, and not always. Buying Windows every time is not a good idea.

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Current little 1440p gaming build in the works. Not completely accurate as pc part picker is behind in listing new products like Enermax DF 650 gold psu. Not a complete or completely accurate list. Not really a budget build per say. Part were chosen for specific reasons. Should  make a decent 1440p gamer. The op is pushing more towards workstation gamer but can go cheaper and smaller if need be.

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Great advice, think I’ve been spending too much time on Reddit. The RAM was to future proof but seems stupid now considering I would probably never use it.

 

How much of a performance hit, guesstimation, do you reckon I will have from certain downgrades. 

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Downgrading the amount of ram but choosing faster ram..... none. Cpu wise   ? A bit of comparing benchmarks for your cpu/gpu combo but more than likely not much.  The thing is that you can still leave yourself an upgrade path to a workstation if you so choose. Say you get a 3900 later on and slap in another pair of ram. Maybe a larger psu if you get crazy with the drives and throw in another gpu. So your MB choice is all important consideration weighted against what you want to do and where you might take it later on down the road. Always keep an eye on the future and try to avoid building yourself into a dead end.

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3 hours ago, TheVillageIdiot said:

Downgrading the amount of ram but choosing faster ram..... none. Cpu wise   ? A bit of comparing benchmarks for your cpu/gpu combo but more than likely not much.  The thing is that you can still leave yourself an upgrade path to a workstation if you so choose. Say you get a 3900 later on and slap in another pair of ram. Maybe a larger psu if you get crazy with the drives and throw in another gpu. So your MB choice is all important consideration weighted against what you want to do and where you might take it later on down the road. Always keep an eye on the future and try to avoid building yourself into a dead end.

Downgrading the amount of Ram can make a big difference. Maybe not so much for gaming, although there are games that can chew through it. Cities Skylines with lots of mods/tiles is one example. A 16GB kit is fine, but Ram prices are pretty good at the minute so if 32GB fits the budget then go with it. 

 

Some of your component choices also make no sense if the pc is mainly for gaming.

 

Your choice of cpu cooler is a bit strange. A low profile cooler makes more sense for a smaller case where cooler height is limited. A mid tower can fit a better tower cooler.

 

There is no need to spend extra for X570. The Tomahawk board will be fine.

 

Same goes for the Ram. You can get good results with cheaper ram and just overclocking it.

 

The Seasonic Focus apparently has some protection issues so should be avoided. Not sure if the new version has fixed it.

 

A Gen 4 SSD is pointless (They run way too hot anyway when under load). Just stick with a standard Gen 3 if going NVMe.

 

The MSI Ventus cooler is subpar.

 

 

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37 c at idle 45 c underload.... Pretty subpar for air :) I do expect the temps to climb a bit in a mid tower.

 

Give me some  pci-e 4 loven.......ah yes.........

 

I might post the build here once I finish it up. I will happy to explain the build in detail then.

 

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