Jump to content

What would happen if i used Exploded PSU?

Exaco
Go to solution Solved by WereCatf,
Just now, Exaco said:

Basically i heard some noise, PC turned off then i saw smoke from below coming and i found some nasty smelling liquid leaked out.

That's a blown electrolytic capacitor, then. I wouldn't use the PSU, even if it seems to be working at the moment -- even if there was nothing else wrong with the PSU and you just happened to have one with one bad cap in it, your system would most likely be unstable. Then, on the other hand, there could be something else wrong with the PSU as well and then you're risking your mobo and everything connected to it.

Hey guys, so this is my second PSU dying ( both was faulty on arrival most likely ), yesterday while using XFX XTR2 650W ( Focus Plus/Prime rebrand ) i've noticed that PC shut down while on idle, turned back on everything works fine, thought mby it went to sleep or something. This morning PC doesn't boot, tried a bit of troubleshooting like checking cables trying different wall etc.. Nothing works.

So i wasn't sure if the PSU is dead or maybe Mobo is dead, so i took my old PP11 600W which exploded and connected it to mobo only, i know it was risky but the only way to figure out if its the PSU and with the old exploded PSU the PC booted, all fans started spinning, lights on etc.

Is there any chances the old PP11 is still fine and could be used while i wait for RMA? Well since it works normally kinda, but ofcourse has risk of second critical explosion or not?

Explosion:
Basically i heard some noise, PC turned off then i saw smoke from below ( small amount, like 1/3 of cigarette smoke exhale ) coming and i found some nasty smelling liquid leaked out on the floor and dust filter/fans and never used it since then.

I wasn't able to see any exploded caps looking through the "grill/mesh". 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, Exaco said:

Is there any chances the old PP11 is still fine and could be used while i wait for RMA? Well since it works normally kinda, but ofcourse has risk of second explosion or not?

You're not explaining what you mean with "exploded", you know. You're not giving us anything useful to go on by.

Hand, n. A singular instrument worn at the end of the human arm and commonly thrust into somebody’s pocket.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

3 minutes ago, WereCatf said:

You're not explaining what you mean with "exploded", you know. You're not giving us anything useful to go on by.

Basically i heard some noise, PC turned off then i saw smoke from below ( small amount, like 1/3 of cigarette smoke exhale ) coming and i found some nasty smelling liquid leaked out on the floor and dust filter/fans and never used it since then.

I wasn't able to see any exploded caps looking through the "grill/mesh". 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Never ever ever should you use a PSU you think might be faulty.

M.S.C.E. (M.Sc. Computer Engineering), IT specialist in a hospital, 30+ years of gaming, 20+ years of computer enthusiasm, Geek, Trekkie, anime fan

  • Main PC: AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D - EK AIO 360 D-RGB - Arctic Cooling MX-4 - Asus Prime X570-P - 4x8GB DDR4 3200 HyperX Fury CL16 - Sapphire AMD Radeon 6950XT Nitro+ - 1TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 2TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 512GB ADATA SU800 - 960GB Kingston A400 - Seasonic PX-850 850W  - custom black ATX and EPS cables - Fractal Design Define R5 Blackout - Windows 11 x64 23H2 - 3 Arctic Cooling P14 PWM PST - 5 Arctic Cooling P12 PWM PST
  • Peripherals: LG 32GK650F - Dell P2319h - Logitech G Pro X Superlight with Tiger Ice - HyperX Alloy Origins Core (TKL) - EndGame Gear MPC890 - Genius HF 1250B - Akliam PD4 - Sennheiser HD 560s - Simgot EM6L - Truthear Zero - QKZ x HBB - 7Hz Salnotes Zero - Logitech C270 - Behringer PS400 - BM700  - Colormunki Smile - Speedlink Torid - Jysk Stenderup - LG 24x External DVD writer - Konig smart card reader
  • Laptop: Acer E5–575G-386R 15.6" 1080p (i3 6100U + 12GB DDR4 (4GB+8GB) + GeForce 940MX + 256GB nVME) Win 10 Pro x64 22H2 - Logitech G305 + AAA Lithium battery
  • Networking: Asus TUF Gaming AX6000 - Arcadyan ISP router - 35/5 Mbps vDSL
  • TV and gadgets: TCL 50EP680 50" 4K LED + Sharp HT-SB100 75W RMS soundbar - Samsung Galaxy Tab A8 10.1" - OnePlus 9 256GB - Olymous Cameda C-160 - GameBoy Color 
  • Streaming/Server/Storage PC: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 - LC-Power LC-CC-120 - MSI B450 Tomahawk Max - 2x4GB ADATA 2666 DDR4 - 120GB Kingston V300 - Toshiba DT01ACA100 1TB - Toshiba DT01ACA200 2TB - 2x WD Green 2TB - Sapphire Pulse AMD Radeon R9 380X - 550W EVGA G3 SuperNova - Chieftec Giga DF-01B - White Shark Spartan X keyboard - Roccat Kone Pure Military Desert strike - Logitech S-220 - Philips 226L
  • Livingroom PC (dad uses): AMD FX 8300 - Arctic Freezer 64 - Asus M5A97 R2.0 Evo - 2x4GB DDR3 1833 Kingston - MSI Radeon HD 7770 1GB OC - 120GB Adata SSD - 500W Fractal Design Essence - DVD-RW - Samsung SM 2253BW - Logitech G710+ - wireless vertical mouse - MS 2.0 speakers
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Just now, Exaco said:

Basically i heard some noise, PC turned off then i saw smoke from below coming and i found some nasty smelling liquid leaked out.

That's a blown electrolytic capacitor, then. I wouldn't use the PSU, even if it seems to be working at the moment -- even if there was nothing else wrong with the PSU and you just happened to have one with one bad cap in it, your system would most likely be unstable. Then, on the other hand, there could be something else wrong with the PSU as well and then you're risking your mobo and everything connected to it.

Hand, n. A singular instrument worn at the end of the human arm and commonly thrust into somebody’s pocket.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, 191x7 said:

Never ever ever should you use a PSU you think might be faulty.

Ironically if i ordered brand new one i might think it can be faulty :D Just like these two were.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

5 minutes ago, Exaco said:

Ironically if i ordered brand new one i might think it can be faulty :D Just like these two were.

Are you using the same cables?

M.S.C.E. (M.Sc. Computer Engineering), IT specialist in a hospital, 30+ years of gaming, 20+ years of computer enthusiasm, Geek, Trekkie, anime fan

  • Main PC: AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D - EK AIO 360 D-RGB - Arctic Cooling MX-4 - Asus Prime X570-P - 4x8GB DDR4 3200 HyperX Fury CL16 - Sapphire AMD Radeon 6950XT Nitro+ - 1TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 2TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 512GB ADATA SU800 - 960GB Kingston A400 - Seasonic PX-850 850W  - custom black ATX and EPS cables - Fractal Design Define R5 Blackout - Windows 11 x64 23H2 - 3 Arctic Cooling P14 PWM PST - 5 Arctic Cooling P12 PWM PST
  • Peripherals: LG 32GK650F - Dell P2319h - Logitech G Pro X Superlight with Tiger Ice - HyperX Alloy Origins Core (TKL) - EndGame Gear MPC890 - Genius HF 1250B - Akliam PD4 - Sennheiser HD 560s - Simgot EM6L - Truthear Zero - QKZ x HBB - 7Hz Salnotes Zero - Logitech C270 - Behringer PS400 - BM700  - Colormunki Smile - Speedlink Torid - Jysk Stenderup - LG 24x External DVD writer - Konig smart card reader
  • Laptop: Acer E5–575G-386R 15.6" 1080p (i3 6100U + 12GB DDR4 (4GB+8GB) + GeForce 940MX + 256GB nVME) Win 10 Pro x64 22H2 - Logitech G305 + AAA Lithium battery
  • Networking: Asus TUF Gaming AX6000 - Arcadyan ISP router - 35/5 Mbps vDSL
  • TV and gadgets: TCL 50EP680 50" 4K LED + Sharp HT-SB100 75W RMS soundbar - Samsung Galaxy Tab A8 10.1" - OnePlus 9 256GB - Olymous Cameda C-160 - GameBoy Color 
  • Streaming/Server/Storage PC: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 - LC-Power LC-CC-120 - MSI B450 Tomahawk Max - 2x4GB ADATA 2666 DDR4 - 120GB Kingston V300 - Toshiba DT01ACA100 1TB - Toshiba DT01ACA200 2TB - 2x WD Green 2TB - Sapphire Pulse AMD Radeon R9 380X - 550W EVGA G3 SuperNova - Chieftec Giga DF-01B - White Shark Spartan X keyboard - Roccat Kone Pure Military Desert strike - Logitech S-220 - Philips 226L
  • Livingroom PC (dad uses): AMD FX 8300 - Arctic Freezer 64 - Asus M5A97 R2.0 Evo - 2x4GB DDR3 1833 Kingston - MSI Radeon HD 7770 1GB OC - 120GB Adata SSD - 500W Fractal Design Essence - DVD-RW - Samsung SM 2253BW - Logitech G710+ - wireless vertical mouse - MS 2.0 speakers
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

5 minutes ago, 191x7 said:

Are you using the same cables?

The modular connectors on the Pure Power 11 CM and XFX XTR are physically different.
Pure Power 11 CM uses 12pin for PCIe and single row of 5pin for peripherals. The Motherboard and CPU cables are fixed.

XFX XTR uses 8pin for PCIe and 6pin for peripherals.

While it can be an issue for some other power supplies, you'd have to get pretty creative to use the wrong cables between those two units.

Edited by Spotty

CPU: Intel i7 6700k  | Motherboard: Gigabyte Z170x Gaming 5 | RAM: 2x16GB 3000MHz Corsair Vengeance LPX | GPU: Gigabyte Aorus GTX 1080ti | PSU: Corsair RM750x (2018) | Case: BeQuiet SilentBase 800 | Cooler: Arctic Freezer 34 eSports | SSD: Samsung 970 Evo 500GB + Samsung 840 500GB + Crucial MX500 2TB | Monitor: Acer Predator XB271HU + Samsung BX2450

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

15 minutes ago, Spotty said:

The modular connectors on the Pure Power 11 CM and XFX XTR are physically different.
Pure Power 11 CM uses 12pin for PCIe and single row of 5pin for peripherals. The Motherboard and CPU cables are fixed.

XFX XTR uses 8pin for PCIe and 6pin for peripherals.

While it can be an issue for some other power supplies, you'd have to get pretty creative to use the wrong cables between those two units.

I know the CM and the XFX use different cables, I was referring to the two XFX-es, the ones that died last.

M.S.C.E. (M.Sc. Computer Engineering), IT specialist in a hospital, 30+ years of gaming, 20+ years of computer enthusiasm, Geek, Trekkie, anime fan

  • Main PC: AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D - EK AIO 360 D-RGB - Arctic Cooling MX-4 - Asus Prime X570-P - 4x8GB DDR4 3200 HyperX Fury CL16 - Sapphire AMD Radeon 6950XT Nitro+ - 1TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 2TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 512GB ADATA SU800 - 960GB Kingston A400 - Seasonic PX-850 850W  - custom black ATX and EPS cables - Fractal Design Define R5 Blackout - Windows 11 x64 23H2 - 3 Arctic Cooling P14 PWM PST - 5 Arctic Cooling P12 PWM PST
  • Peripherals: LG 32GK650F - Dell P2319h - Logitech G Pro X Superlight with Tiger Ice - HyperX Alloy Origins Core (TKL) - EndGame Gear MPC890 - Genius HF 1250B - Akliam PD4 - Sennheiser HD 560s - Simgot EM6L - Truthear Zero - QKZ x HBB - 7Hz Salnotes Zero - Logitech C270 - Behringer PS400 - BM700  - Colormunki Smile - Speedlink Torid - Jysk Stenderup - LG 24x External DVD writer - Konig smart card reader
  • Laptop: Acer E5–575G-386R 15.6" 1080p (i3 6100U + 12GB DDR4 (4GB+8GB) + GeForce 940MX + 256GB nVME) Win 10 Pro x64 22H2 - Logitech G305 + AAA Lithium battery
  • Networking: Asus TUF Gaming AX6000 - Arcadyan ISP router - 35/5 Mbps vDSL
  • TV and gadgets: TCL 50EP680 50" 4K LED + Sharp HT-SB100 75W RMS soundbar - Samsung Galaxy Tab A8 10.1" - OnePlus 9 256GB - Olymous Cameda C-160 - GameBoy Color 
  • Streaming/Server/Storage PC: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 - LC-Power LC-CC-120 - MSI B450 Tomahawk Max - 2x4GB ADATA 2666 DDR4 - 120GB Kingston V300 - Toshiba DT01ACA100 1TB - Toshiba DT01ACA200 2TB - 2x WD Green 2TB - Sapphire Pulse AMD Radeon R9 380X - 550W EVGA G3 SuperNova - Chieftec Giga DF-01B - White Shark Spartan X keyboard - Roccat Kone Pure Military Desert strike - Logitech S-220 - Philips 226L
  • Livingroom PC (dad uses): AMD FX 8300 - Arctic Freezer 64 - Asus M5A97 R2.0 Evo - 2x4GB DDR3 1833 Kingston - MSI Radeon HD 7770 1GB OC - 120GB Adata SSD - 500W Fractal Design Essence - DVD-RW - Samsung SM 2253BW - Logitech G710+ - wireless vertical mouse - MS 2.0 speakers
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

37 minutes ago, 191x7 said:

Are you using the same cables?

Using always these that comes with PSU, since i do not have any "Mod cables".
And the PP11 wasn't modular.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

10 hours ago, WereCatf said:

That's a blown electrolytic capacitor, then. I wouldn't use the PSU, even if it seems to be working at the moment -- even if there was nothing else wrong with the PSU and you just happened to have one with one bad cap in it, your system would most likely be unstable. Then, on the other hand, there could be something else wrong with the PSU as well and then you're risking your mobo and everything connected to it.

Not necessarily.  Typically it's MOSFETs and diodes that flame up and smoke when the blow up.  When you see those videos where the PSU explodes and there's a large flash and a bunch of smoke, that's typically the primary's switcher.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

7 minutes ago, The Torrent said:

never risk it with a psu

Yep.  Good way to kill all of your other parts.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, jonnyGURU said:

Not necessarily.  Typically it's MOSFETs and diodes that flame up and smoke when the blow up.  When you see those videos where the PSU explodes and there's a large flash and a bunch of smoke, that's typically the primary's switcher.

Neither MOSFETs or diodes leave any sort of liquid behind. Also, I take it you haven't seen how an electrolytic capacitor blows up.

Hand, n. A singular instrument worn at the end of the human arm and commonly thrust into somebody’s pocket.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

21 minutes ago, WereCatf said:

Neither MOSFETs or diodes leave any sort of liquid behind. Also, I take it you haven't seen how an electrolytic capacitor blows up.

LOLOLOL!!! 

 

Of course I have. 

 

I do admit that I missed the part about "liquid" in the OP.  My bad.  Though 99% of the time when someone claims they've seen liquid in their PSU, it's actually just the caulk. 

 

But now that I see the sentence in the OP about liquid oozing out of the PSU, I do agree with you. 

 

Reading comprehension of forums on a phone isnt the best.  ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Okay now i'm curious if i was just unlucky with faulty PSU's or there's an installation problem in this 5store appartments that wasn't renovated since soviet times.

So what exactly happens to a decent PSU if there's power surge since it's the worst that can happen right?
Note: I've used OCZ ZS for over 4-5years in worse conditions such as trash case w/ 0 airflow, the PC was running nearly 24/7 and nothing happened, it all started with the new "better" ones in combination of PC platform upgrade.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×