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Ive Made a similar post about my problem and got an answer for the fix. Ill paste what i had posted so you can read and what i have done to fix it.

 

 

Currently I have:

CPU: Ryzen 5 2400g

Motherboard: Gigabyte B450m DS3H

Ram: TEAMGROUP T-Force Delta RGB DDR4 16GB (2x8GB) 3000MHz

GPU: Sapphire R9 280x Vapor-x Tri-X

PSU: 550w 80+ bronze

 

Problem: system wont boot when I plug my gpu to the psu; only when IGPU is used i get a boot, but all fans and LEDs are on.

What I have tried, updated bios from f2 to f32, but im gonna go to 42b after im done writing and ill write an updated after if the system boots after updating. tried another slot but there is no spaces because of the front panel ports. 

 

Im thinking that either the GPU is dead (which wouldnt make sense of the leds on the pcb is on, fans and led on the side.)  or the psu needs an upgrade to 650w

 

 

So I changed my PSU to a new 600w one and the pc booted normally. then i tried to bench it using heaven and the screen turned into like  grey and black. Then later, i was able to boot up again and tried to rrun the test again and it still black screened..... any advice will be appreciated.

 

EDIT:

So i noticed that my mouse doesnt light up when the Gpu is plugged in and that the onboard graphics doesnt work when the GPU is plugged into the power

 

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https://linustechtips.com/topic/1093802-help-upgraded-pc-now-gpu-wont-work/
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i once had to check an iBuypower PC for a customer. they had bought this computer from me earlier and had me install more ram. they said it wouldnt boot. the GPU, was shorted, and when it was put in the PC would not boot. but when it was taken out, the computer turned on fine. try testing it without the gpu and see if it gets to post. it wont post as ryzens dont have integrated graphics, but it will post to an error. then try it with a different gpu if you have one. i dont know why you think going from a600 to a 650W psu will do anything. or why a 550W to a 600W psu will do anything. for a build like this id recommend a 700W+ PSU, but that would not cause it to do nothing with the GPU in. you can send your GPU to RMA if its still eligible and have them check it out. or try your GPU in a different PC first and see what happens.

If my Response helped you, Please click the Check under my reply, to mark it as The Solution!

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You're being very nonspecific with the power supplies you're talking about 

I WILL find your ITX build thread, and I WILL recommend the SIlverstone Sugo SG13B

 

Primary PC:

i7 8086k - EVGA Z370 Classified K - G.Skill Trident Z RGB - WD SN750 - Jedi Order Titan Xp - Hyper 212 Black (with RGB Riing flair) - EVGA G3 650W - dual booting Windows 11 and Fedora Linux - Black and green theme, Razer brainwashed me.

Draws 400 watts under max load, for reference.

 

PSU tier list

How many watts do I need?

PSU misconceptions, protections explainedgroup reg is bad

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1 minute ago, LamoidZombieDog said:

for a build like this id recommend a 700W+ PSU

Um, why exactly? It's a 400 watt pull at the very most.

I WILL find your ITX build thread, and I WILL recommend the SIlverstone Sugo SG13B

 

Primary PC:

i7 8086k - EVGA Z370 Classified K - G.Skill Trident Z RGB - WD SN750 - Jedi Order Titan Xp - Hyper 212 Black (with RGB Riing flair) - EVGA G3 650W - dual booting Windows 11 and Fedora Linux - Black and green theme, Razer brainwashed me.

Draws 400 watts under max load, for reference.

 

PSU tier list

How many watts do I need?

PSU misconceptions, protections explainedgroup reg is bad

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Just now, fasauceome said:

Um, why exactly? It's a 400 watt pull at the very most.

just because it pulls 400W does not mean you should get a 400W. or a 500W. yes, a 500-550W would Power it, and you probably wouldnt have any issues. but as GPUs hit a year, or two, or three old, they start to be less effecient. and having a better gpu, will mean it will last longer. im running an 850W for a build that could run on 600W. because i want the extra room, for when my computer gets a year or 2 older.

If my Response helped you, Please click the Check under my reply, to mark it as The Solution!

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2 minutes ago, fasauceome said:

You're being very nonspecific with the power supplies you're talking about 

i went from a cooler master 550w bronze to thermaltake 80+ 600w. someone suggested that the psu was having troubles so i got a new one and it booted jsut fine, until i opened unigen heaven and ran a test. could it be that the drivers arent installed correctly? and if so how do i go about uninstalling and reinstalling drivers

 

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2 minutes ago, LamoidZombieDog said:

just because it pulls 400W does not mean you should get a 400W. or a 500W. yes, a 500-550W would Power it, and you probably wouldnt have any issues

It definitely wouldn't have any issues, not if the PSU isn't a piece of crap

 

2 minutes ago, LamoidZombieDog said:

but as GPUs hit a year, or two, or three old, they start to be less effecient

That's not true, they're only not efficient relative to newer graphics cards. A 290X day one is exactly as efficient as a 290X that's 5 years old. It certainly doesn't require a few hundred extra watts of headroom that's for sure.

I WILL find your ITX build thread, and I WILL recommend the SIlverstone Sugo SG13B

 

Primary PC:

i7 8086k - EVGA Z370 Classified K - G.Skill Trident Z RGB - WD SN750 - Jedi Order Titan Xp - Hyper 212 Black (with RGB Riing flair) - EVGA G3 650W - dual booting Windows 11 and Fedora Linux - Black and green theme, Razer brainwashed me.

Draws 400 watts under max load, for reference.

 

PSU tier list

How many watts do I need?

PSU misconceptions, protections explainedgroup reg is bad

Link to post
Share on other sites

Just now, Saif alwahab said:

want links? what do you need and i can provide

 

Links would be fine but if you know the model names simply tell us, we can have all the information we need. If you have some questionable units the peak power draw may be affecting functionality.

I WILL find your ITX build thread, and I WILL recommend the SIlverstone Sugo SG13B

 

Primary PC:

i7 8086k - EVGA Z370 Classified K - G.Skill Trident Z RGB - WD SN750 - Jedi Order Titan Xp - Hyper 212 Black (with RGB Riing flair) - EVGA G3 650W - dual booting Windows 11 and Fedora Linux - Black and green theme, Razer brainwashed me.

Draws 400 watts under max load, for reference.

 

PSU tier list

How many watts do I need?

PSU misconceptions, protections explainedgroup reg is bad

Link to post
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, fasauceome said:

Links would be fine but if you know the model names simply tell us, we can have all the information we need. If you have some questionable units the peak power draw may be affecting functionality.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014W3EMAO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 this is what i upgraded to

https://pcpartpicker.com/product/2wrcCJ/cooler-master-power-supply-rs550amaab1us and this is what i went from

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4 minutes ago, Saif alwahab said:

You downgraded in quality, the Cooler Master GM is better than the Thermaltake Smart, even if not by much. If you could, borrowing a power supply from a friend would help verify the cause of the problem, it's still possible the card has a defect so it's good to be certain.

 

@seon123 @LukeSavenije what do you think the odds of OCP or something causing a problem with a 280X on the G550M or SMART?

Edited by fasauceome

I WILL find your ITX build thread, and I WILL recommend the SIlverstone Sugo SG13B

 

Primary PC:

i7 8086k - EVGA Z370 Classified K - G.Skill Trident Z RGB - WD SN750 - Jedi Order Titan Xp - Hyper 212 Black (with RGB Riing flair) - EVGA G3 650W - dual booting Windows 11 and Fedora Linux - Black and green theme, Razer brainwashed me.

Draws 400 watts under max load, for reference.

 

PSU tier list

How many watts do I need?

PSU misconceptions, protections explainedgroup reg is bad

Link to post
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, fasauceome said:

You downgraded in quality, the Cooler Master GM is better than the Thermaltake Smart, even if not by much. If you could, borrowing a power supply from a friend would help verify the cause of the problem, it's still possible the card has a defect so it's good to be certain.

 

@seon123 what do you think the odds of OCP or something causing a problem with a 280X on the G550M or SMART?

The thing is it booted fine when i replaced the psu.  couldd the mobo not support this card?

if so how do i check if it does or doesnt

 

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Just now, Saif alwahab said:

couldd the mobo not support this card?

I can guarantee that this isn't the problem.

I WILL find your ITX build thread, and I WILL recommend the SIlverstone Sugo SG13B

 

Primary PC:

i7 8086k - EVGA Z370 Classified K - G.Skill Trident Z RGB - WD SN750 - Jedi Order Titan Xp - Hyper 212 Black (with RGB Riing flair) - EVGA G3 650W - dual booting Windows 11 and Fedora Linux - Black and green theme, Razer brainwashed me.

Draws 400 watts under max load, for reference.

 

PSU tier list

How many watts do I need?

PSU misconceptions, protections explainedgroup reg is bad

Link to post
Share on other sites

19 minutes ago, fasauceome said:

what do you think the odds of OCP or something causing a problem with a 280X on the G550M or SMART?

The G550M should be fine. The SMART I wouldn't recommend to use with a R9 280X though.

Fun Fact: Despite one being a "550w" model and the other being a "600w" model, both the Cooler Master G550M and Thermaltake Smart are only rated to supply 42A on the 12V rail. Not relevant to OPs problem, but just something to note for anyone thinking that a higher wattage PSU was the solution for as to why it worked with one PSU and not the other.

 

Not sure why it worked on one PSU and not the other. I would say it's unlikely, but I suppose it's possible that the card was giving off funky vibes that the Cooler Master PSU didn't like which caused it to shut down to protect itself & the system, while the less sophisticated Thermaltake Smart didn't care and just kept on trucking... But my guess is swapping PSUs worked for the same reason blowing on a nintendo 64 cartridge worked.

 

1 hour ago, Saif alwahab said:

Problem: system wont boot when I plug my gpu to the psu; only when IGPU is used i get a boot, but all fans and LEDs are on.

Out of curiosity when you say it won't boot, does that mean there's no display on the monitor but the system is running (fans and LEDs running), or does it mean that the entire system refuses to even power on or show any signs of life?
If the system is running (fans and LEDs on) but there's no display on the monitor then it's likely the graphics card. If it was the PSU the entire system would lose power (like if you flipped the switch at the wall) and the fans and LEDs would turn off.

 

1 hour ago, Saif alwahab said:

So I changed my PSU to a new 600w one and the pc booted normally. then i tried to bench it using heaven and the screen turned into like  grey and black. Then later, i was able to boot up again and tried to rrun the test again and it still black screened..... any advice will be appreciated.

Sounds like the graphics card is dead. Given the graphics card is about 5 years old I would hazard a guess and say the card is outside of warranty? Fortunately you can use the 2400G APU integrated graphics until you can find a replacement card.

CPU: Intel i7 6700k  | Motherboard: Gigabyte Z170x Gaming 5 | RAM: 2x16GB 3000MHz Corsair Vengeance LPX | GPU: Gigabyte Aorus GTX 1080ti | PSU: Corsair RM750x (2018) | Case: BeQuiet SilentBase 800 | Cooler: Arctic Freezer 34 eSports | SSD: Samsung 970 Evo 500GB + Samsung 840 500GB + Crucial MX500 2TB | Monitor: Acer Predator XB271HU + Samsung BX2450

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