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Is my RTX 2080 toast?

TisseFrans

Hi guys. I hope maybe you have some input to my issue. I have a bad feeling about my PNY RTX 2080 XLR8. While I was playing Apex Legends the other day my game suddenly crashed with the infamous display driver crash that came back in february but should be fixed in march with the 419.35 driver. So I thought it was some kind of driver or software issue, but perhaps not.

It crashes about 10 secs after the game has loaded constantly. I've tried 5 different nvidia drivers: Updating to the newest ones, reverting to old ones, I've done clean installs every time, I've removed the old drivers with DDU. Uninstalled the game, re-downloaded it, tried repairing, re-download Origin, Windows is completely updated.

Then I started testing other games like Wolfenstein, Path of Exile and every one of them crashes after a few seconds. I tried to run Timespy in 3Dmark and that almost instantly crashes. The weird thing is that League of Legends and CS:GO runs fine. I know those games doesn't require as much power but still...I find it weird. It not because it gets warm. It sits at 36C and reaches 40C when the game crashes, and it hasn't been overclocked.

 

Now I replaced the 2080 with an ASUS GTX 1660 Ti, re-installed drivers and everything works as perfectly as my 2080 used to (until it started crashing everything). Is that just a clear indication that my 2080 is dead or dying? Is there any way to confirm this?

 

Thanks for the help in advance.

 

Ben

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Possibly, could also be your Power Supply dying as the 2080 does pull more power. What is your PSU? How old is it? I would start there first. If that all checks out and is up to par, then it may be your card and at that point and I would try to RMA if possible, especially if thermals are all checking out, it's probably a voltage or power issue on the card.

Main Rig: cpu: Intel 6600k OC @ 4.5Ghz; gpu: Gigabyte Gaming OC RTX 2080 (OC'd); mb: Gigabyte GA-Z170X-UD3; ram: 16 GB (2x8GB) 3000 G.Skill Ripjaws V; psu: EVGA 650BQ; storage: 500GB Samsung 850 evo, 2TB WD Black; case: Cooler Master HAF 912; cooling: Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo, Lots of fans, Air!; display: 4k Samsung 42" TV, Asus MX259H 1080p audio: Schiit Audio Magni Amp w/ Audio Technica M50x

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23 minutes ago, TisseFrans said:

Hi guys. I hope maybe you have some input to my issue. I have a bad feeling about my PNY RTX 2080 XLR8. While I was playing Apex Legends the other day my game suddenly crashed with the infamous display driver crash that came back in february but should be fixed in march with the 419.35 driver. So I thought it was some kind of driver or software issue, but perhaps not.

It crashes about 10 secs after the game has loaded constantly. I've tried 5 different nvidia drivers: Updating to the newest ones, reverting to old ones, I've done clean installs every time, I've removed the old drivers with DDU. Uninstalled the game, re-downloaded it, tried repairing, re-download Origin, Windows is completely updated.

Then I started testing other games like Wolfenstein, Path of Exile and every one of them crashes after a few seconds. I tried to run Timespy in 3Dmark and that almost instantly crashes. The weird thing is that League of Legends and CS:GO runs fine. I know those games doesn't require as much power but still...I find it weird. It not because it gets warm. It sits at 36C and reaches 40C when the game crashes, and it hasn't been overclocked.

 

Now I replaced the 2080 with an ASUS GTX 1660 Ti, re-installed drivers and everything works as perfectly as my 2080 used to (until it started crashing everything). Is that just a clear indication that my 2080 is dead or dying? Is there any way to confirm this?

 

Thanks for the help in advance.

 

Ben

After you try a power supply (or before) I would try setting the power limit/core clock/mem clock a bit lower and see if that helps, sometimes this helps for cards that may have barely passed QC.

why no dark mode?
Current:

Watercooled Eluktronics THICC-17 (Clevo X170SM-G):
CPU: i9-10900k @ 4.9GHz all core
GPU: RTX 2080 Super (Max P 200W)
RAM: 32GB (4x8GB) @ 3200MTs

Storage: 512GB HP EX NVMe SSD, 2TB Silicon Power NVMe SSD
Displays: Asus ROG XG-17 1080p@240Hz (G-Sync), IPS 1080p@240Hz (G-Sync), Gigabyte M32U 4k@144Hz (G-Sync), External Laptop panel (LTN173HT02) 1080p@120Hz

Asus ROG Flow Z13 (GZ301ZE) W/ Increased Power Limit:
CPU: i9-12900H @ Up to 5.0GHz all core
- dGPU: RTX 3050 Ti 4GB

- eGPU: RTX 3080 (mobile) XGm 16GB
RAM: 16GB (8x2GB) @ 5200MTs

Storage: 1TB NVMe SSD, 1TB MicroSD
Display: 1200p@120Hz

Asus Zenbook Duo (UX481FLY):

CPU: i7-10510U @ Up to 4.3 GHz all core
- GPU: MX 250
RAM: 16GB (8x2GB) @ 2133MTs

Storage: 128GB SATA M.2 (NVMe no worky)
Display: Main 1080p@60Hz + Screnpad Plus 1920x515@60Hz

Custom Game Server:

CPUs: Ryzen 7 7700X @ 5.1GHz all core

RAM: 128GB (4x32GB) DDR5 @ whatever it'll boot at xD (I think it's 3600MTs)

Storage: 2x 1TB WD Blue NVMe SSD in RAID 1, 4x 10TB HGST Enterprise HDD in RAID Z1

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9 minutes ago, EarthWormJM2 said:

Possibly, could also be your Power Supply dying as the 2080 does pull more power. What is your PSU? How old is it? I would start there first. If that all checks out and is up to par, then it may be your card and at that point and I would try to RMA if possible, especially if thermals are all checking out, it's probably a voltage or power issue on the card.

Didn't think of my PSU as an issue. It's a Corsair CX750 and it's a few years old. Can't remember exactly. Is there any way to test the PSU without having to replace the it with another?

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5 minutes ago, Mnky313 said:

After you try a power supply (or before) I would try setting the power limit/core clock/mem clock a bit lower and see if that helps, sometimes this helps for cards that may have barely passed QC.

But if the card can't run factory specs then I suppose I should RMA it anyway, right?!

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1 minute ago, TisseFrans said:

Didn't think of my PSU as an issue. It's a Corsair CX750 and it's a few years old. Can't remember exactly. Is there any way to test the PSU without having to replace the it with another?

Put it under load and monitor voltages with a DMM, that's what I've always done.

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Just now, TisseFrans said:

But if the card can't run factory specs then I suppose I should RMA it anyway, right?!

Oh, if RMA is an option than yeah.  I would try a different PSU just to be sure before RMAing it, but if that doesn't help than go for it. What is your PSU?

why no dark mode?
Current:

Watercooled Eluktronics THICC-17 (Clevo X170SM-G):
CPU: i9-10900k @ 4.9GHz all core
GPU: RTX 2080 Super (Max P 200W)
RAM: 32GB (4x8GB) @ 3200MTs

Storage: 512GB HP EX NVMe SSD, 2TB Silicon Power NVMe SSD
Displays: Asus ROG XG-17 1080p@240Hz (G-Sync), IPS 1080p@240Hz (G-Sync), Gigabyte M32U 4k@144Hz (G-Sync), External Laptop panel (LTN173HT02) 1080p@120Hz

Asus ROG Flow Z13 (GZ301ZE) W/ Increased Power Limit:
CPU: i9-12900H @ Up to 5.0GHz all core
- dGPU: RTX 3050 Ti 4GB

- eGPU: RTX 3080 (mobile) XGm 16GB
RAM: 16GB (8x2GB) @ 5200MTs

Storage: 1TB NVMe SSD, 1TB MicroSD
Display: 1200p@120Hz

Asus Zenbook Duo (UX481FLY):

CPU: i7-10510U @ Up to 4.3 GHz all core
- GPU: MX 250
RAM: 16GB (8x2GB) @ 2133MTs

Storage: 128GB SATA M.2 (NVMe no worky)
Display: Main 1080p@60Hz + Screnpad Plus 1920x515@60Hz

Custom Game Server:

CPUs: Ryzen 7 7700X @ 5.1GHz all core

RAM: 128GB (4x32GB) DDR5 @ whatever it'll boot at xD (I think it's 3600MTs)

Storage: 2x 1TB WD Blue NVMe SSD in RAID 1, 4x 10TB HGST Enterprise HDD in RAID Z1

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5 minutes ago, YoFavRussian said:

Put it under load and monitor voltages with a DMM, that's what I've always done.

As far as I can tell the voltages checks out fine...

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4 minutes ago, Mnky313 said:

Oh, if RMA is an option than yeah.  I would try a different PSU just to be sure before RMAing it, but if that doesn't help than go for it. What is your PSU?

Corsair CX750. RMA is still an option...it's just a pain in the ass. :(

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Just now, TisseFrans said:

I don't get BSOD. Just random GPU related error messages from each game and plain old freezes.

Honestly, if you can't get your hands on another PSU to test with, just RMA it! Feels like everything else would be guesses.

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16 minutes ago, Fredrik Svantesson said:

Honestly, if you can't get your hands on another PSU to test with, just RMA it! Feels like everything else would be guesses.

RMA seems to be a way to go...I just wanted to hear if you guys thought it could be a software issue. (I don't personally)

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18 minutes ago, TisseFrans said:

As far as I can tell the voltages checks out fine...

I prefer to use a meter, but yeah, you might RMA it just because they'll send you a good one that way you know it's good.

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8 minutes ago, YoFavRussian said:

I prefer to use a meter, but yeah, you might RMA it just because they'll send you a good one that way you know it's good.

I'll contact the store tomorrow. 2080's hasn't had the best record have they?!

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wow, I had a very similar issue many years ago. threw a GPU into a crappy pre-built from best buy and all of the sudden one day, whenever I play WoW, the games works for a few mins and then the whole PC freezes requiring a hard reset. I never thought to check my PSU or GPU, although I was only like 14-15 at the time so this was more than 10 yrs ago. I guess I never realized that hardware could just up and die like that. I must have spent an entire weekend trying to diagnose driver issues and re-installs before I convinced my dad to buy a new pc. 

 

sounds like you've figured out the issue though, hope everything works out with the RMA. at least you have a spare card to use in the mean time!

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18 hours ago, TisseFrans said:

I'll contact the store tomorrow. 2080's hasn't had the best record have they?!

I'm not sure about overall track record of all 2080s, but I have a gigabyte gaming OC 2080 and it's been good for about 6 months so far... Hopefully the RMA goes well!

 

Side note* I had a CX 550 and it started dying on me under load after about 5 years... the CX line is usually the cheaper made. so if you get a new gpu and it keeps happening, replace your PSU.

Main Rig: cpu: Intel 6600k OC @ 4.5Ghz; gpu: Gigabyte Gaming OC RTX 2080 (OC'd); mb: Gigabyte GA-Z170X-UD3; ram: 16 GB (2x8GB) 3000 G.Skill Ripjaws V; psu: EVGA 650BQ; storage: 500GB Samsung 850 evo, 2TB WD Black; case: Cooler Master HAF 912; cooling: Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo, Lots of fans, Air!; display: 4k Samsung 42" TV, Asus MX259H 1080p audio: Schiit Audio Magni Amp w/ Audio Technica M50x

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Thanks for your input everybody!

 

To wrap up this story: I got a full refund or a new card at the store. No questions asked, which was very nice and a reflief as I had feared they might want to try and get around it. But there was no issue what so ever. The PNY card wasn't in stock so i grabbed an ASUS Dual OC instead for a little extra cash. I don't mind as I have never had any issues with all my ASUS cards and it's quite obvious that the overall build quality is a level or two higher with ASUS compared to PNY.

 

Popped in the ASUS card and everything seems to works flawless. I still need to run some benchmarks but so far in every game it has run perfectly. I guess the conclusion were that the PNY card malfunctioned somehow.

 

Thanks again!

 

P.S. RGB makes everyone better at gaming!

rig.jpg

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