Jump to content

Fan to both PSU and motherboard

bubyy
Go to solution Solved by WoodenMarker,
3 minutes ago, bubyy said:

Can I split the + and - to both fans instead of PWM then?

Yes, that's what a splitter does and you can use dc to control both fans. 

Hello.

 

So I have a little problem. I have only one PWM fan connector on my motherboard. A fan with a 3-pin connector is connected to it, so the PWM pin is left out.

 

I got another fan today and it's a PWM one. But I forgot I don't have any more connectors on my mobo, so I connected it manually to the power supply.

I've tried hooking it up to different voltages, 5V, 7V and 12V:

- 5V is too slow

- 7V is quiet but I think it's not pushing enough air

- 12V is loud but it's pushing a ton of air.

 

It's now on 7V and I realised the back fan is pushing really hot air out of the case. My GTX 1660 is running at 79°C at full load, but my i5 7500 is running at a pretty low temp of 52°C at full load.

But I don't want the fan to be running at full speed all the time because it's too loud. I want the speed to be automatically controlled by the BIOS, like the 3-pin fan is being controlled.

 

I was wondering if I could connect the new fan ONLY to the left out PWM pin and let it be powered by the PSU, so I can control both of the fans with the curve I've already set in the BIOS (currently controlling only the 3-pin fan). Would this work?

 

I would edit the curve to have a maximum RPM of the fan with the lower maximum RPM (let me know is that even necessary).

 

Thank you!

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

The most convenient fix is a pwm fan splitter cable, that way you can plug both fans in to one header.

I WILL find your ITX build thread, and I WILL recommend the SIlverstone Sugo SG13B

 

Primary PC:

i7 8086k - EVGA Z370 Classified K - G.Skill Trident Z RGB - WD SN750 - Jedi Order Titan Xp - Hyper 212 Black (with RGB Riing flair) - EVGA G3 650W - dual booting Windows 10 and Linux - Black and green theme, Razer brainwashed me.

Draws 400 watts under max load, for reference.

 

How many watts do I needATX 3.0 & PCIe 5.0 spec, PSU misconceptions, protections explainedgroup reg is bad

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Just now, fasauceome said:

The most convenient fix is a pwm fan splitter cable, that way you can plug both fans in to one header.

I have already tried getting it, but there is no store that has it in my area. I don't want to order it and wait months for it to come. I just want a quick solution.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Keep your voltage regulator on it, or order one next day from Amazon (if time is of the utmost essence)

Workstation Laptop: Dell Precision 7540, Xeon E-2276M, 32gb DDR4, Quadro T2000 GPU, 4k display

Wifes Rig: ASRock B550m Riptide, Ryzen 5 5600X, Sapphire Nitro+ RX 6700 XT, 16gb (2x8) 3600mhz V-Color Skywalker RAM, ARESGAME AGS 850w PSU, 1tb WD Black SN750, 500gb Crucial m.2, DIYPC MA01-G case

My Rig: ASRock B450m Pro4, Ryzen 5 3600, ARESGAME River 5 CPU cooler, EVGA RTX 2060 KO, 16gb (2x8) 3600mhz TeamGroup T-Force RAM, ARESGAME AGV750w PSU, 1tb WD Black SN750 NVMe Win 10 boot drive, 3tb Hitachi 7200 RPM HDD, Fractal Design Focus G Mini custom painted.  

NVIDIA GeForce RTX 2060 video card benchmark result - AMD Ryzen 5 3600,ASRock B450M Pro4 (3dmark.com)

Daughter 1 Rig: ASrock B450 Pro4, Ryzen 7 1700 @ 4.2ghz all core 1.4vCore, AMD R9 Fury X w/ Swiftech KOMODO waterblock, Custom Loop 2x240mm + 1x120mm radiators in push/pull 16gb (2x8) Patriot Viper CL14 2666mhz RAM, Corsair HX850 PSU, 250gb Samsun 960 EVO NVMe Win 10 boot drive, 500gb Samsung 840 EVO SSD, 512GB TeamGroup MP30 M.2 SATA III SSD, SuperTalent 512gb SATA III SSD, CoolerMaster HAF XM Case. 

https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/37004594?

Daughter 2 Rig: ASUS B350-PRIME ATX, Ryzen 7 1700, Sapphire Nitro+ R9 Fury Tri-X, 16gb (2x8) 3200mhz V-Color Skywalker, ANTEC Earthwatts 750w PSU, MasterLiquid Lite 120 AIO cooler in Push/Pull config as rear exhaust, 250gb Samsung 850 Evo SSD, Patriot Burst 240gb SSD, Cougar MX330-X Case

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, bubyy said:

I have already tried getting it, but there is no store that has it in my area. I don't want to order it and wait months for it to come. I just want a quick solution.

Where are you ordering from if you order online? Do you live in the United States?

 

Buying a check splitter from Newegg will have it to you in a few days

I WILL find your ITX build thread, and I WILL recommend the SIlverstone Sugo SG13B

 

Primary PC:

i7 8086k - EVGA Z370 Classified K - G.Skill Trident Z RGB - WD SN750 - Jedi Order Titan Xp - Hyper 212 Black (with RGB Riing flair) - EVGA G3 650W - dual booting Windows 10 and Linux - Black and green theme, Razer brainwashed me.

Draws 400 watts under max load, for reference.

 

How many watts do I needATX 3.0 & PCIe 5.0 spec, PSU misconceptions, protections explainedgroup reg is bad

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, Tristerin said:

Keep your voltage regulator on it, or order one next day from Amazon (if time is of the utmost essence)

I'm sorry I don't understand what you said. Can you rephrase that?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

2 minutes ago, fasauceome said:

Where are you ordering from if you order online? Do you live in the United States?

 

Buying a check splitter from Newegg will have it to you in a few days

I am not from the US. No online stores in my country have the splitter.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, bubyy said:

I'm sorry I don't understand what you said. Can you rephrase that?

To me if you ran it at 5,7,12v than you have a voltage regulator already in hand to attach to the molex to power the fan from the PSU.  So however you kept it at 7v I would continue keeping it there (unless you used the mobo then you are just out of luck till a splitter arrives) or I would just run it full speed and deal with the sound...until my fan header splitter arrived

Workstation Laptop: Dell Precision 7540, Xeon E-2276M, 32gb DDR4, Quadro T2000 GPU, 4k display

Wifes Rig: ASRock B550m Riptide, Ryzen 5 5600X, Sapphire Nitro+ RX 6700 XT, 16gb (2x8) 3600mhz V-Color Skywalker RAM, ARESGAME AGS 850w PSU, 1tb WD Black SN750, 500gb Crucial m.2, DIYPC MA01-G case

My Rig: ASRock B450m Pro4, Ryzen 5 3600, ARESGAME River 5 CPU cooler, EVGA RTX 2060 KO, 16gb (2x8) 3600mhz TeamGroup T-Force RAM, ARESGAME AGV750w PSU, 1tb WD Black SN750 NVMe Win 10 boot drive, 3tb Hitachi 7200 RPM HDD, Fractal Design Focus G Mini custom painted.  

NVIDIA GeForce RTX 2060 video card benchmark result - AMD Ryzen 5 3600,ASRock B450M Pro4 (3dmark.com)

Daughter 1 Rig: ASrock B450 Pro4, Ryzen 7 1700 @ 4.2ghz all core 1.4vCore, AMD R9 Fury X w/ Swiftech KOMODO waterblock, Custom Loop 2x240mm + 1x120mm radiators in push/pull 16gb (2x8) Patriot Viper CL14 2666mhz RAM, Corsair HX850 PSU, 250gb Samsun 960 EVO NVMe Win 10 boot drive, 500gb Samsung 840 EVO SSD, 512GB TeamGroup MP30 M.2 SATA III SSD, SuperTalent 512gb SATA III SSD, CoolerMaster HAF XM Case. 

https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/37004594?

Daughter 2 Rig: ASUS B350-PRIME ATX, Ryzen 7 1700, Sapphire Nitro+ R9 Fury Tri-X, 16gb (2x8) 3200mhz V-Color Skywalker, ANTEC Earthwatts 750w PSU, MasterLiquid Lite 120 AIO cooler in Push/Pull config as rear exhaust, 250gb Samsung 850 Evo SSD, Patriot Burst 240gb SSD, Cougar MX330-X Case

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

2 minutes ago, bubyy said:

I am not from the US. No online stores in my country have the splitter.

What model 1660 do you have? Some have PWM headers on them

I WILL find your ITX build thread, and I WILL recommend the SIlverstone Sugo SG13B

 

Primary PC:

i7 8086k - EVGA Z370 Classified K - G.Skill Trident Z RGB - WD SN750 - Jedi Order Titan Xp - Hyper 212 Black (with RGB Riing flair) - EVGA G3 650W - dual booting Windows 10 and Linux - Black and green theme, Razer brainwashed me.

Draws 400 watts under max load, for reference.

 

How many watts do I needATX 3.0 & PCIe 5.0 spec, PSU misconceptions, protections explainedgroup reg is bad

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Just now, fasauceome said:

What model 1660 do you have? Some have PWM headers on them

Gigabyte OC edition. Not gaming, just OC edition with 2 fans.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, bubyy said:

Gigabyte OC edition. Not gaming, just OC edition with 2 fans.

I see, unfortunately that model doesn't seem to have PWM headers

I WILL find your ITX build thread, and I WILL recommend the SIlverstone Sugo SG13B

 

Primary PC:

i7 8086k - EVGA Z370 Classified K - G.Skill Trident Z RGB - WD SN750 - Jedi Order Titan Xp - Hyper 212 Black (with RGB Riing flair) - EVGA G3 650W - dual booting Windows 10 and Linux - Black and green theme, Razer brainwashed me.

Draws 400 watts under max load, for reference.

 

How many watts do I needATX 3.0 & PCIe 5.0 spec, PSU misconceptions, protections explainedgroup reg is bad

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

5 minutes ago, Tristerin said:

To me if you ran it at 5,7,12v than you have a voltage regulator already in hand to attach to the molex to power the fan from the PSU.  So however you kept it at 7v I would continue keeping it there (unless you used the mobo then you are just out of luck till a splitter arrives) or I would just run it full speed and deal with the sound...until my fan header splitter arrived

I don't have a voltage regulator, I just connected the wires in different ways. I used tutorials I found on the internet. Can't I plug the fan to 12V and the fan's PWM pin to the motherboard and let the BIOS control it?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, bubyy said:

I don't have a voltage regulator, I just connected the wires in different ways. I used tutorials I found on the internet. Cant't I plug the fan to 12V and the fan's PWM pin to the motherboard and let the BIOS control it?

Ive never modded like that so I cant confirm.  However as a tinkerer just saying it out loud tells me that yes it would work or at least I see no reason not trying.

Workstation Laptop: Dell Precision 7540, Xeon E-2276M, 32gb DDR4, Quadro T2000 GPU, 4k display

Wifes Rig: ASRock B550m Riptide, Ryzen 5 5600X, Sapphire Nitro+ RX 6700 XT, 16gb (2x8) 3600mhz V-Color Skywalker RAM, ARESGAME AGS 850w PSU, 1tb WD Black SN750, 500gb Crucial m.2, DIYPC MA01-G case

My Rig: ASRock B450m Pro4, Ryzen 5 3600, ARESGAME River 5 CPU cooler, EVGA RTX 2060 KO, 16gb (2x8) 3600mhz TeamGroup T-Force RAM, ARESGAME AGV750w PSU, 1tb WD Black SN750 NVMe Win 10 boot drive, 3tb Hitachi 7200 RPM HDD, Fractal Design Focus G Mini custom painted.  

NVIDIA GeForce RTX 2060 video card benchmark result - AMD Ryzen 5 3600,ASRock B450M Pro4 (3dmark.com)

Daughter 1 Rig: ASrock B450 Pro4, Ryzen 7 1700 @ 4.2ghz all core 1.4vCore, AMD R9 Fury X w/ Swiftech KOMODO waterblock, Custom Loop 2x240mm + 1x120mm radiators in push/pull 16gb (2x8) Patriot Viper CL14 2666mhz RAM, Corsair HX850 PSU, 250gb Samsun 960 EVO NVMe Win 10 boot drive, 500gb Samsung 840 EVO SSD, 512GB TeamGroup MP30 M.2 SATA III SSD, SuperTalent 512gb SATA III SSD, CoolerMaster HAF XM Case. 

https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/37004594?

Daughter 2 Rig: ASUS B350-PRIME ATX, Ryzen 7 1700, Sapphire Nitro+ R9 Fury Tri-X, 16gb (2x8) 3200mhz V-Color Skywalker, ANTEC Earthwatts 750w PSU, MasterLiquid Lite 120 AIO cooler in Push/Pull config as rear exhaust, 250gb Samsung 850 Evo SSD, Patriot Burst 240gb SSD, Cougar MX330-X Case

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

2 minutes ago, bubyy said:

I don't have a voltage regulator, I just connected the wires in different ways. I used tutorials I found on the internet. Cant't I plug the fan to 12V and the fan's PWM pin to the motherboard and let the BIOS control it?

If you are handy with wires you could create your own fan splitter. You can control a 4pin fan with voltage too, so you could control it like the other 3 pin fan you have.

I only see your reply if you @ me.

This reply/comment was generated by AI.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, Origami Cactus said:

If you are handy with wires you could create your own fan splitter. You can control a 4pin fan with voltage too, so you could control it like the other 3 pin fan you have.

Do you know how should I wire it all up? I heard something about motherboards pulling too much current from one connector if multiple fans are connected to it. Not sure if that's true.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

4 minutes ago, bubyy said:

I heard something about motherboards pulling too much current from one connector if multiple fans are connected to it. Not sure if that's true.

Hopefully you have a 1A header, so you should be fine. Also your fans aren't powerful enough probably? They have their amperage written on the back usually, so just add them together and see if it is under 1A, most definitely is.

 

4 minutes ago, bubyy said:

Do you know how should I wire it all up? I heard something about motherboards pulling too much current from one connector if multiple fans are connected to it. Not sure if that's true.

Technically you only need 3 wires, because you would be running the PWM fan also in DC mode, if you want to control both of them. So just create a Y split for each of the 3 cables, and connect the wires to the fan connectors.

 

EDIT: You only need 2 wires for the second fan, Don't connect the Taichimeter cable to both fans! Only connect voltage wires.

 

Here is a scheme, as you can see sensor is not needed!

Image result for 3 pin fan

I only see your reply if you @ me.

This reply/comment was generated by AI.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

No, that wouldn't work for controlling both fans. With pwm, 12v is sent through the 2nd pin and the 3pin fan would run at 100% rpm. 

If you ever need help with a build, read the following before posting: http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/3061-build-plan-thread-recommendations-please-read-before-posting/
Also, make sure to quote a post or tag a member when replying or else they won't get a notification that you replied to them.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

4 minutes ago, WoodenMarker said:

No, that wouldn't work for controlling both fans. With pwm, 12v is sent through the 2nd pin and the 3pin fan would run at 100% rpm. 

Can I split the + and - to both fans instead of PWM then?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

9 minutes ago, Origami Cactus said:

Hopefully you have a 1A header, so you should be fine. Also your fans aren't powerful enough probably? They have their amperage written on the back usually, so just add them together and see if it is under 1A, most definitely is.

 

Technically you only need 3 wires, because you would be running the PWM fan also in DC mode, if you want to control both of them. So just create a Y split for each of the 3 cables, and connect the wires to the fan connectors.

 

EDIT: You only need 2 wires for the second fan, Don't connect the Taichimeter cable to both fans! Only connect voltage wires.

 

Here is a scheme, as you can see sensor is not needed!

Image result for 3 pin fan

This is really useful, I think I'll try it! Thanks!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

3 minutes ago, bubyy said:

Can I split the + and - to both fans instead of PWM then?

Yes, that's what a splitter does and you can use dc to control both fans. 

If you ever need help with a build, read the following before posting: http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/3061-build-plan-thread-recommendations-please-read-before-posting/
Also, make sure to quote a post or tag a member when replying or else they won't get a notification that you replied to them.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, WoodenMarker said:

Yes, that's what a splitter does and you can use dc to control both fans. 

Thank you so much! I'm better off doing some DIY than waiting months for a splitter that does the same thing!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

IT WORKS! I literally just plugged the + and - from the new fan into the old fan's 3-pin socket because the socket has nice holes on the back haha. I love you guys ❤️

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×