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wanting to get a friend a cheap SSD for windows, he running an old fx build so m.2 is a no go,

I don't want to spend extra money just for a brand name or some fancy bells and whistles that wont be used (looking at you RGB even though you alone increase the fps by 500)

and preferably within the 100-250gb mark, that's also fairly reliable (looking at you aliexpressium ssds)

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Team Group L5 LITE 3D

Main Gaming and Streaming PC: http://pcpartpicker.com/user/Vinsinity/saved/TjwVnQ

Ultrabook and College Laptop:

Spoiler

XPS 13 9350:

i5-6200U

8GB RAM

Samsung PM951 250GB M.2 Solid State Drive

Workstation Laptop:

Spoiler

Sager NP8672 (P670SG):

i7-4720HQ

32GB (4 x 8GB) CORSAIR Vengeance Performance

Samsung 850 EVO 250GB M.2 Solid State Drive (Boot Drive)

Samsung 950 PRO 512GB M.2 Solid State Drive (Video Drive)

Crucial MX100 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (Secondary SDD Storage)

Western Digital (Blue or Black) 1TB 2.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (Storage Drive)

GeForce GTX 980M 4G

 

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Having dealt with several dead ssd's at work, I strongly recommend you don't buy a cheap ssd.

 

Two things not to cheap out on

* Power Supplies

* Storage

 

I've had good luck with Samsung, Sandisk, & Intel's ssds.  I'd say Samsung's come out on top, and would recommend getting them even if they cost a little more.

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Go to pcpartpicker and sort low to high with SSDs, the cheapest one will be fine.

 

I WILL find your ITX build thread, and I WILL recommend the SIlverstone Sugo SG13B

 

Primary PC:

i7 8086k - EVGA Z370 Classified K - G.Skill Trident Z RGB - WD SN750 - Jedi Order Titan Xp - Hyper 212 Black (with RGB Riing flair) - EVGA G3 650W - dual booting Windows 11 and Fedora Linux - Black and green theme, Razer brainwashed me.

Draws 400 watts under max load, for reference.

 

PSU tier list

How many watts do I need?

PSU misconceptions, protections explainedgroup reg is bad

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7 hours ago, MadmanRB said:

the sandisk 1 looks interesting

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Indeed: here is a more up to date version of it if you wish to look at it:

 

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071KGRXRH/ref=psdc_1292116011_t3_B01F9G43WU

 

Only $10 and is a fantastic drive as well.

And should offer good reliability over cheaper no name brands.

Sandisk is owned by western digital now so it has some pedigree there.

One thing i liked about my sandisk is the sandisk tools utility that helped with TRIM support and keeping drivers up to date, again something you may not find on a no name brand.

Trust me if i didnt get myself a NVME I would still use my old SSD but now its in my fathers computer (which used to be mine) and it made his machine have some warp drive :D

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I have 2 silicon power SSDs that have been great.

Black Knight-

Ryzen 5 5600, GIGABYTE B550M DS3H, 16Gb Corsair Vengeance LPX 3000mhz, Asrock RX 6800 XT Phantom Gaming,

Seasonic Focus GM 750, Samsung EVO 860 EVO SSD M.2, Intel 660p Series M.2 2280 1TB PCIe NVMe, Linux Mint 20.2 Cinnamon

 

Daughter's Rig;

MSI B450 A Pro, Ryzen 5 3600x, 16GB Corsair Vengeance LPX 3000mhz, Silicon Power A55 512GB SSD, Gigabyte RX 5700 Gaming OC, Corsair CX430

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7 hours ago, asand1 said:

I have 2 silicon power SSDs that have been great.

Yeah out of the lower brand silicon power doesnt seem so bad.

The only issue is some models do come near in price to some of the more well known brands, this one for example:

 

https://www.amazon.com/Silicon-Power-Performance-Internal-SP256GBSS3A55S25/dp/B075RJS55D

 

Is only $5 less then the sandisk I mentioned, sure the silicon power is a bit newer but I am unsure if they have the same kind of nice front end software to maintain it like sandisk would.

I mean it cant hurt and technically its a better drive as the siliconpower has SLC while the sandisk has a modified MLC

 

https://www.mydigitaldiscount.com/everything-you-need-to-know-about-slc-mlc-and-tlc-nand-flash.html

 

I will see if the siliconpower has the software first and reccomend a alternative, its not like you need the special softare but its nice to have a utility for those new to SSD's

 

Edit: they do, good

 

https://www.silicon-power.com/web/download-ToolBox

 

Well if thats the case go for this instead of the sandisk, that seems to be a great budget SSD too.

Wish it was out when I got my first SSD though :D

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When it comes to SSDs I always buy the cheapest I can get regardless of brand for personal use, as long as it's coming from a reputable seller and it's brand new. Just be sure to make good backups of your important stuff because even the most expensive HDD or SSD can fail without notice.

 

Team Group, ADATA, SanDisk, and SP are all great brands. I really don't want to jinx myself but so far to date I've never had a single SSD die on me at home.

-KuJoe

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7 hours ago, MadmanRB said:

...

I mean it cant hurt and technically its a better drive as the siliconpower has SLC while the sandisk has a modified MLC

...

I'm not familiar with this brand, so I don't know if they're doing this or not, but I have seen some brands/stores label SSD's as SLC just because it has an SLC cache.

I've also seen cases where an SSD manfacturer had started out using MLC then later switched to TLC.  They never explicitly stated in their specs what the type of flash was, so while it was dirty, technically it wasn't lying.  Again, I know nothing about silicon power, I'm just saying, be cautious.

 

TL;DR do your due diligence, and don't take what you read on an online store at face value.  Double check the specs on their website, and take some time to see if that manufacturer has a past history of swapping out parts later on.  

 

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On ‎12‎/‎6‎/‎2018 at 12:11 PM, star_weaver said:

wanting to get a friend a cheap SSD for windows, he running an old fx build so m.2 is a no go,

I don't want to spend extra money just for a brand name or some fancy bells and whistles that wont be used (looking at you RGB even though you alone increase the fps by 500)

and preferably within the 100-250gb mark, that's also fairly reliable (looking at you aliexpressium ssds)

I just purchased a Patriot Burst 240gb SSD on Black Friday

 

I benched it against my Samsung 850 EVO 250gb SSD.  I wish I had the screenshots on my work PC because they were close enough for me to call identical. 

 

I think it got 554 read 480 write and random iops of 60k read and 50k write.

 

SUPER impressed with this $30 SSD

Workstation Laptop: Dell Precision 7540, Xeon E-2276M, 32gb DDR4, Quadro T2000 GPU, 4k display

Wifes Rig: ASRock B550m Riptide, Ryzen 5 5600X, Sapphire Nitro+ RX 6700 XT, 16gb (2x8) 3600mhz V-Color Skywalker RAM, ARESGAME AGS 850w PSU, 1tb WD Black SN750, 500gb Crucial m.2, DIYPC MA01-G case

My Rig: ASRock B450m Pro4, Ryzen 5 3600, ARESGAME River 5 CPU cooler, EVGA RTX 2060 KO, 16gb (2x8) 3600mhz TeamGroup T-Force RAM, ARESGAME AGV750w PSU, 1tb WD Black SN750 NVMe Win 10 boot drive, 3tb Hitachi 7200 RPM HDD, Fractal Design Focus G Mini custom painted.  

NVIDIA GeForce RTX 2060 video card benchmark result - AMD Ryzen 5 3600,ASRock B450M Pro4 (3dmark.com)

Daughter 1 Rig: ASrock B450 Pro4, Ryzen 7 1700 @ 4.2ghz all core 1.4vCore, AMD R9 Fury X w/ Swiftech KOMODO waterblock, Custom Loop 2x240mm + 1x120mm radiators in push/pull 16gb (2x8) Patriot Viper CL14 2666mhz RAM, Corsair HX850 PSU, 250gb Samsun 960 EVO NVMe Win 10 boot drive, 500gb Samsung 840 EVO SSD, 512GB TeamGroup MP30 M.2 SATA III SSD, SuperTalent 512gb SATA III SSD, CoolerMaster HAF XM Case. 

https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/37004594?

Daughter 2 Rig: ASUS B350-PRIME ATX, Ryzen 7 1700, Sapphire Nitro+ R9 Fury Tri-X, 16gb (2x8) 3200mhz V-Color Skywalker, ANTEC Earthwatts 750w PSU, MasterLiquid Lite 120 AIO cooler in Push/Pull config as rear exhaust, 250gb Samsung 850 Evo SSD, Patriot Burst 240gb SSD, Cougar MX330-X Case

 

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2 hours ago, JacobFW said:

I'm not familiar with this brand, so I don't know if they're doing this or not, but I have seen some brands/stores label SSD's as SLC just because it has an SLC cache.

I've also seen cases where an SSD manfacturer had started out using MLC then later switched to TLC.  They never explicitly stated in their specs what the type of flash was, so while it was dirty, technically it wasn't lying.  Again, I know nothing about silicon power, I'm just saying, be cautious.

 

TL;DR do your due diligence, and don't take what you read on an online store at face value.  Double check the specs on their website, and take some time to see if that manufacturer has a past history of swapping out parts later on.  

 

I read some documents about the drive in question, it checks out.

And even if its MLC thats okay, its not the end of the world if it is.

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