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B450 or B450M?

Go to solution Solved by Fasauceome,
Just now, IAmAndre said:

I was also concerned about durability,

Believe me, gigabyte is the durability brand. And their customer support is also a lot better.

Hi,

 

I'd like to know if I should prefer a B450 motherboard over a B450M equivalent if I don't plan on overcloking. I actually never tweak anything and focus on productivity and light gaming. I'll be using with a Ryzen 5 2600X and 16GB of RAM at 3200Mhz, which I might upgrade to 32 or 48GB at some point. I'd like to know your opinion on this model and this one

 

Thanks

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The MSI motherboard appears to have better VRM cooling, hence the price premium, so if you're not overclocking, the gigabyte board will do just fine for you 

I WILL find your ITX build thread, and I WILL recommend the SIlverstone Sugo SG13B

 

Primary PC:

i7 8086k - EVGA Z370 Classified K - G.Skill Trident Z RGB - WD SN750 - Jedi Order Titan Xp - Hyper 212 Black (with RGB Riing flair) - EVGA G3 650W - dual booting Windows 10 and Linux - Black and green theme, Razer brainwashed me.

Draws 400 watts under max load, for reference.

 

How many watts do I needATX 3.0 & PCIe 5.0 spec, PSU misconceptions, protections explainedgroup reg is bad

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Realistically speaking the much cheaper Gigabyte board is capable of running the CPU at stock perfectly fine while offering enough memory support for 2933mhz ~ 3200mhz which would fix Infinity Fabric limitation.

 

With Ryzen going past 32gb of memory is always a hit and miss, my brother had a lot of issue getting 64gb up and running on a r7 1800X and a Prime Pro-A X370. And I seen plenty of cases about it here at the forum.

 

Bottom line is that you could get away with the cheaper one but you will not be at the top of any synthetic benchmark and may occasionally experience issues going past 32gb of memory.

Personal Desktop":

CPU: Intel Core i7 10700K @5ghz |~| Cooling: bq! Dark Rock Pro 4 |~| MOBO: Gigabyte Z490UD ATX|~| RAM: 16gb DDR4 3333mhzCL16 G.Skill Trident Z |~| GPU: RX 6900XT Sapphire Nitro+ |~| PSU: Corsair TX650M 80Plus Gold |~| Boot:  SSD WD Green M.2 2280 240GB |~| Storage: 1x3TB HDD 7200rpm Seagate Barracuda + SanDisk Ultra 3D 1TB |~| Case: Fractal Design Meshify C Mini |~| Display: Toshiba UL7A 4K/60hz |~| OS: Windows 10 Pro.

Luna, the temporary Desktop:

CPU: AMD R9 7950XT  |~| Cooling: bq! Dark Rock 4 Pro |~| MOBO: Gigabyte Aorus Master |~| RAM: 32G Kingston HyperX |~| GPU: AMD Radeon RX 7900XTX (Reference) |~| PSU: Corsair HX1000 80+ Platinum |~| Windows Boot Drive: 2x 512GB (1TB total) Plextor SATA SSD (RAID0 volume) |~| Linux Boot Drive: 500GB Kingston A2000 |~| Storage: 4TB WD Black HDD |~| Case: Cooler Master Silencio S600 |~| Display 1 (leftmost): Eizo (unknown model) 1920x1080 IPS @ 60Hz|~| Display 2 (center): BenQ ZOWIE XL2540 1920x1080 TN @ 240Hz |~| Display 3 (rightmost): Wacom Cintiq Pro 24 3840x2160 IPS @ 60Hz 10-bit |~| OS: Windows 10 Pro (games / art) + Linux (distro: NixOS; programming and daily driver)
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3 minutes ago, fasauceome said:

The MSI motherboard appears to have better VRM cooling, hence the price premium, so if you're not overclocking, the gigabyte board will do just fine for you 

 

2 minutes ago, Princess Cadence said:

Bottom line is that you could get away with the cheaper one

Well that's exactly what I wanted to hear. I was also concerned about durability, since I really don't like to open my PC once it's built. My goal is to keep the motherboard and upgrade the CPU in two generations or so. I also appreciate the extra SATA ports since I'm already using 4 hard drives but that's fine for now.

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Just now, IAmAndre said:

I was also concerned about durability,

Believe me, gigabyte is the durability brand. And their customer support is also a lot better.

I WILL find your ITX build thread, and I WILL recommend the SIlverstone Sugo SG13B

 

Primary PC:

i7 8086k - EVGA Z370 Classified K - G.Skill Trident Z RGB - WD SN750 - Jedi Order Titan Xp - Hyper 212 Black (with RGB Riing flair) - EVGA G3 650W - dual booting Windows 10 and Linux - Black and green theme, Razer brainwashed me.

Draws 400 watts under max load, for reference.

 

How many watts do I needATX 3.0 & PCIe 5.0 spec, PSU misconceptions, protections explainedgroup reg is bad

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1 minute ago, IAmAndre said:

.

I believe the system should live just fine, with a solid PSU and making sure your Temps are fine with air flow and such I can't see what'd go bad hardware side that'd be your fault :P

Personal Desktop":

CPU: Intel Core i7 10700K @5ghz |~| Cooling: bq! Dark Rock Pro 4 |~| MOBO: Gigabyte Z490UD ATX|~| RAM: 16gb DDR4 3333mhzCL16 G.Skill Trident Z |~| GPU: RX 6900XT Sapphire Nitro+ |~| PSU: Corsair TX650M 80Plus Gold |~| Boot:  SSD WD Green M.2 2280 240GB |~| Storage: 1x3TB HDD 7200rpm Seagate Barracuda + SanDisk Ultra 3D 1TB |~| Case: Fractal Design Meshify C Mini |~| Display: Toshiba UL7A 4K/60hz |~| OS: Windows 10 Pro.

Luna, the temporary Desktop:

CPU: AMD R9 7950XT  |~| Cooling: bq! Dark Rock 4 Pro |~| MOBO: Gigabyte Aorus Master |~| RAM: 32G Kingston HyperX |~| GPU: AMD Radeon RX 7900XTX (Reference) |~| PSU: Corsair HX1000 80+ Platinum |~| Windows Boot Drive: 2x 512GB (1TB total) Plextor SATA SSD (RAID0 volume) |~| Linux Boot Drive: 500GB Kingston A2000 |~| Storage: 4TB WD Black HDD |~| Case: Cooler Master Silencio S600 |~| Display 1 (leftmost): Eizo (unknown model) 1920x1080 IPS @ 60Hz|~| Display 2 (center): BenQ ZOWIE XL2540 1920x1080 TN @ 240Hz |~| Display 3 (rightmost): Wacom Cintiq Pro 24 3840x2160 IPS @ 60Hz 10-bit |~| OS: Windows 10 Pro (games / art) + Linux (distro: NixOS; programming and daily driver)
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11 minutes ago, fasauceome said:

Believe me, gigabyte is the durability brand. And their customer support is also a lot better.

no kidding my old ass fm2+ motherboard is still pushing strong, despite not having working audio jacks.

8086k

aorus pro z390

noctua nh-d15s chromax w black cover

evga 3070 ultra

samsung 128gb, adata swordfish 1tb, wd blue 1tb

seasonic 620w dogballs psu

 

 

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