Never ending build Lian Li pc-q37 htpc

[MaratM]

The distro plate drawing is finalised, sent to milling

[MaratM]

Today I've got some pictures from the milling shop.

hopefully I'll get it in a couple days. still waiting for gasket and bolts from aliexpress

[MaratM]

Temperary assembly of the distro plate

[MaratM]

Today i’ve called the reseller of my dead motherboard, and i vas offered a refund or replacement, however the do not have z370i in stock and they also do not know then it is going to be in stock. With some paperwork and a small payment they agreed to replace z370i to z390i. I had no other choice but to agree. Looks like I’ll be the first one who will install the z270-370i monoblock onto z390i

it does look very doable and at the first glance it might need just an extra threaded hole to make it work. 

 

z390i vrm

 

Z370i vrm

Z 370i back side

Z390i backside

 

looks like left vrm heatsink mounting holes are identical, the top vrm heatsink is different by one hole and the standoff on the monoblock can be moved to match z390i. There is enough material on the monoblock

 

[thedemoncowboy]

Comprehensive, thank you!

[MaratM]

I’ve got the board today!!!

as I said earlier the vrm on the side of io is more the less identical, but the top part ot the vrm is slightly different, and the top part needs a bit of work with a dremmel

Without the top part the monoblock fits like a glove

and the ssd waterblock fits as well

Going to remove the waterblock, get all the cpu in and place original heatsink back just to test if it is working.

[Enter Plasma]

That Barrow M.2 block together with the monoblock makes for a surprisingly sweet combo on there

[MaratM]

The monoblock is installed

i had to dremel off some metal of the top vrm part

Now i can finish the distro plate

[MaratM]

Today I had a first (test) boot on the “testbench”

G.Skill RGB ram has arrived. 32gb 3200cl16

in order to get the rig running I had to mod the aircooler

tried to oc ram (it is supposed to be samsung b-die dual ranked, but you never know till you run thaithoon burner - It is hynix A-die) just up the speed without touching neither voltage nor timings 3600mhz

at least it made it to bios and to windows.

 

[MaratM]

Set up bios profile to 4.7gHz on all cores, started windows, started aida64 stress test, but few seconds later it started to thermal throttle. It was a sign. New cpu (the old one is working with maximus 8 hero) MUST be delided! Same 8700k

Did not use any glue, just pressed it down with the socket lid

Same settings, no throttle, -20C

 

[MaratM]

The distro plate is finally done

all polished and assembled left overnight to leaktest

The plate almost polished

The edges before final polish (after 2500 grid sand paper)

[MaratM]

Looks like distro plate project is failed. Should of gone for cast acrylic instead of extruded one. It leaks, lots if micro cracks in the middle plate and all my polishing work is done for nothing.

But a bad experience is still an experience, we always learn from mistakes. For time being I’m trying to get it all working with all the fittings i have from my last o11 dynamic upgrade, looks like even it is mixed and match fittings it is figured out and hopefully soon it will be running. Also looking for a different milling shop and correct material.

[MaratM]

Finally, the NeverEndingBuild is almost assembled, missing one tube, will do it next day and start the leaktest

 

Ps it posts

[MaratM]

I’ve never ended to leak test the loop in that state.

I’ve ordered a new distro plate. Right material this time (cast acrylic) So I polished it to crystal clear state once again. but This time it was a wrong dimensions of the gasket path, it was not deep enough and I overtightened the screw. Ended up with cracks all over the place. So I gave up the idea of distro plate.

Rearranged the tube runs and called it a day. Left it as a piece of furniture for another couple of weeks.

This weekend I filled the loop.

leaktested it for a couple of hours no visible leaks so I i fired it up with all of its RGB glory)

It does look good. It works and is needed to be tuned. As it is used as an HTPC it must play all the mkv video files (not like I support pirated movies,) but I do not have much choice due to the fact I live In a middle of nowhere and buying BRayDisc online does not give me satisfaction of the fact of purchase a disk (like old times when I used to go to Virgin Megastore In my student times to by a CD)

Also my good old AV receiver died, so I upgraded to an atmos one and installed a couple more speakers in my living room, but built in Samsung player does not support full fat atmos, dts, dts-x ( the only thing it supports is atmos from netflix and disney+ and it is not the real thing)

The challenge was to get a same quality image as on a built in samsung media player. After changing few settings in MPC-BE installing some codecs and some playing around with TV settings I managed to get the picture I wanted.

The PC is connected to AV-Receiver and from the AVR to TV.

So now I have it all even HDR games with atmos sound (not many but it is good)
Now it is time to get it all tuned up, find a sweet spot between OC and noise and liquid temp and so on

Update!

the receiver does not support 1440p120hz!!! It is pain Unless I get a 2080ti) and these are not my plans

UPDATE: connected the Reciever with DVI-HDMI adapter (It supports all latest and greatest surround sound formats). Samsung TV with HDMI 2.1 cable. Activated enchanced colouring on TV (HDR) in order to watch movies I have to switch to AV-Reciever mode (it disables game mode and adds some processing for the TV) Thus I get a very nice picture while watching movies, instead of washed out picture produced in PC mode.

GPU can do 2075 mHz on the core and +300 on VRAM (does not really make much difference)

Should I go for 5gHz on the CPU or "stock" 4,7 will do?

 

[MaratM]

The problem happens.

I was playing around with noise level

Set the fans to a comfortable noise level of 1200 rpm max

started aida 64 and heaven stress test to see then the cooling system will reach the equilibrium state after half an hour the CPU was running at 65C, GPU - 53C and the water was around 46C.

All is running at "stock" speed:

CPU is running with MCE on at 4,7 gHz flat

GPU is at automatic maximum boost of nearly 2 gHz (no overclock applied)

The problem is the water temp, which is a bit too high to my likings, I hope the PETG tubes will not melt at this temp.

I'm thinking to borrow 2 NF-A12x25 from my "office rig" (I actually have 3 of them and 1 NF-F12) and put them instead of NF-A12x15 just to see how much it will effect the coolant temp.  

[MaratM]

The NF-A12X25 are installed and they improve a situation a bit. So I decided to hit the 5gHz on the CPU (a quick and simpleoverclock - 50 on the multiplier and 1,35 volts on Vcore, no fine tuning just a simple one if it starts or not) 

It is stable, in the expense of +1C on water temp with a +100RPM on the fan curve. But due to the fact that the fan curve of the D5 pump is based on the CPU every time CPU hits 75C it will rump up the pump to it max speed and it is very annoying whining sound. So a different solution is needed and it is from Aquacomputer, after a few hours of search I found aquaero 5 LT (no screen) for 2000 Rubles ($35US) including delivery and waiting for it to arrive.

This way I can really fine tune the fan curves to get max out performance of my rig with nearly silent cooling system. 

[MaratM]

A couple years have passed.

Finally GPU prices have gone down, thus it is time to upgrade. New GPU is purchased.

Galax RTX 3080 ti.

It is not the best 3080ti, but it has a reference pcb and finding a waterblock for it is not a problem

After a search on the internet found a waterblock for Asus 3090 EKWB.

However even it is stated on EKWB database that Asus 3090 EKWB is compatible with RE waterblock it is not vice versa. The inductors and caps on the Asus pcb are different than on the reference one. Therefore it is not possible to install a Asus waterblock on RE pcb. However I learned about it the hard way. Installed all thermal pads and thermal paste, to find out a problem a few minutes later

The seller of that waterblock was actually very good. He sent me the EKWB RE one with EKWB backplate. A week later I had it and installed it.

As it was said 

"Heavy is good - heavy is reliable" 1300 grams

with minimum changes it was integrated into the loop

The heven stress test showed reasonable temps.

Coolant warmed up to 42C. 2 240 slim rads can not really handle 350 watts of GPU power, at a near silent level. the fans spun up to 1500 rpm. it is a bit loud for my liking but I have a few ideas.  

 

[MaratM]

The loud fans had to be dealt with. The solution had to be simple but effective. An external radiator. The idea was bigger is better.

After a search on the second hand market I found a beast rad.

EKWB CE 560 4x140mm 

The fans were budget ones but good enough Arctic P14PWM

The Base was painted matt black.

and after a few weeks the rad was installed

in order to control the fans an additional controller was bought

Aquacomputer OCTO, Now I have 9 PWM fans

Here is the results. The fan speed dropped down to 700-800 on the Noctuas and the Arctics are running at 600-700 RPM. It is near silent!!! The coolant temp dropped down by 6 degrees. this is after 45 minutes stress test.

[DJ46]

External rad gang!

[MaratM]

Due to the fact that most fan noise is gone and 3080ti is more than capable to run most games in 4k. I connected my pc via my denon reciever. Finally I experienced how is to play games in dolby atmos!!!

 

 

[RealBACONATOR2]

Nice work on the custom fabrication!

[MaratM]

The 8700k was showing its age, it is not a bad cpu, however it was time to upgrade, not like it was really needed but it was one of these things that can be done.

Let the shopping begin! I bought a 13700k a fancy looking thermalright bracket and a EKWB backplate for the lga 1700 socket. (All of it was bought on amazon and shipped to Russia from the US, by means of forwarding company, the only reason for it was a very nice exchange rate in summer and the sanctions imposed on Russia, caused the prices on new CPU’s go through the roof)

The motherboard of my choice was Biostar b660 itx. It is a nice liitle affordable board, I also decided to update my boot drive to Samsung 980pro. (Bought it on the Black Friday sale on amazon, however it took me 2 months to get it delivered)

Also needed a waterblock for new motherboard. Second hand EK evo for a  third of the price sounds like a good deal for me)

By the end of January I had it all on my table to start the assembly. Had a minor problem - MB needed a bios update to work with 13700k. Solved by borrowing a 12xxx series CPU from a local store. All is ready time to upgrade the “never-ending build”

 

[MaratM]

All the parts were ready, it was time for upgrade!!!

Firstly I changed the pump from d5 to ddc ekwb, it fitted perfectly onder the res in the “bottom” chamber.

after that an aquacomputer water flow sensor was installed, all was connected and ready for a leak test.

I was not really in a hurry, but i forgot to close the drain plug! Hence a little flood on my floor, not to warry, all mopped up and ready to go!!!

filled the res, started the pump and I found another leak near the gpu, thus a little waterfall all over the motherboard.

tied it all up carried on - another leak at the external rad!!! That was the last one.

The loop was finally filled up, no more leaks!!! Great!!! And i looked at the flow meter (barrow) and it was not showing good numbers, under 0.5 liter/min. Something must be wrong with it, or with a loop.

I left it to dry untill next weekend. Hey it is distilled water it can not do any harm to electronics if it does not have any power!!!

Next weekend I drained the loop, disassemble it all and found the flow problem. The second hand cpu waterblock was cleanned, but the cold plate was placed wrongly.
Thus all the water was going through 3 micro fins!!!

So before filling up the loop i decided to do a dry start. Placed a stock intel cooler on top of the cpu and fired it up! Nothing! A constant bootloop! Flashing ram testing diod and that was it!

looked like either the mobo or cpu are dead or both.

 

 

[MaratM]

Due to the fact that I live in a middle of nowhere there was a very low possibility to test either the mobo or CPU, thus I decided to order a new motherboard. The choice was Gigabyte b760i

After a few days of waiting I got the mobo. placed the CPU into it and it is alive. my old ram is detected and all is working. thus I started to put it all back together. 

It was all assembled, blow tested, and leak tested.

it was time to fire it up

after a fresh windows 11 install and playing around with aquareo settings I fired Cinebench R23

the result of this test was almost 30K points and power consumption of 285W hence the CPU was hitting 100C on some cores.

So following internet advice I tried to udervolt the CPU, however even if undervolt works its application drops performance, but the monitoring shows that the CPU frequency remains the same, power consumption goes down and overall R23 score goes down to 16-20K points. after playing with various bios settings I ended up cutting power limit to 230W and call it a day.

The temps went down by 15C and R23 score went down to almost 29K 

 

I think it is a good result for lowering temps.

There is also an option for delidding the CPU and liquid metal the CPU. (aliexpress delidder costs around 15 USD)