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techswede

Car Enthusiast Club [Now Motorcycle friendly!] - First thread to 100k! ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

26 minutes ago, Drak3 said:

Don't lump me in with them. I'm an enthusiast of mechanic design, be it engines, weaponry, or productive machinery. Not a guy with a wrench that reads the marketing garbage AFE/insert other "enthusiast" brand that can't legally warranty half of their products.

 

I fail to see a correlation between people screeching variations of "forced induction is more efficient!!! Reclaimed energy!!!" and anything I've said.

If you can't be civil. Please leave

 

Edit. That goes for everyone in the thread

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5 minutes ago, bcredeur97 said:

Sounds like a really nice looking lawn ornament.

 

lol, I wish people valued simplicity and reliability a bit more than they do. 

Pretty sure that's why they got the base model, duh!

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16 hours ago, bcredeur97 said:

My dad just bought a 2012 Volvo XC60 (3.2) with 88k miles for my sisters and him to use occasionally to keep miles off his car.

 

@vetali @Bitter

 

whats gonna break on this thing? I know nothing about Volvo’s. The transmission is mounted to the front of the engine where the belts are and that’s... well... weird

the 3.2 if i remember was an N/A 3.2L i6? 
as far as i know... they are gloriously reliable machines, so i think he did good.

If its AWD then that system might start to bitch after a while ... since IIRC they were Haldex based ones ... but if its the FWD one then it should be fine 


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13 minutes ago, PandaCopyRight said:

the 3.2 if i remember was an N/A 3.2L i6? 
as far as i know... they are gloriously reliable machines, so i think he did good.

If its AWD then that system might start to bitch after a while ... since IIRC they were Haldex based ones ... but if its the FWD one then it should be fine 

Nope they are N/A. Only the 3.0’s were turbocharged as far as I know! 

 

its really short for an in-line 6, kinda impressive. I assume it’s pretty tall though so it’s probably mostly stroke. 
 

it’s just FWD. he did good getting a basic one I guess lol. 
 

but that’s good to know it’ll probably be a good car for him/my sisters! So long as they keep it in one piece lol


"There is nothing more difficult than fixing something that isn't all the way broken yet." - Author Unknown

"A redline a day keeps depression at bay" - Author Unknown

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2 minutes ago, bcredeur97 said:

Nope they are N/A. Only the 3.0’s were turbocharged as far as I know! 

 

its really short for an in-line 6, kinda impressive. I assume it’s pretty tall though so it’s probably mostly stroke. 
 

it’s just FWD. he did good getting a basic one I guess lol. 
 

but that’s good to know it’ll probably be a good car for him/my sisters! So long as they keep it in one piece lol

Yeah 3.0 or earlier 2.9 .. but they would be marked as T6 

 

I mean its a transverse mounted 3.2 liter i6 ...Volvo calls it a Short Inline 6

 

i mean Haldex systems are great FWD based AWD systems, just IIRC volvo says they are not serviceable ... when you should service them according to VAG 

 

as long as noone crashes it... it should last quite long


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I bought new seat covers for the Celica, they're 20 years old, the vinyl side of the driver seat has been cracked/torn for a while, the leather is dry and hard and won't take conditioners, I busted some stitching on the seat bottom a few weeks ago, and the leather is coated leather so it's glossy and slippery. I stuck with black, black stitching, but decided to get 'alcantara' center sections for a little less slipping around in the seats. Here's to hoping they turn out nice and fit well.

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1 hour ago, Bitter said:

I bought new seat covers for the Celica, they're 20 years old, the vinyl side of the driver seat has been cracked/torn for a while, the leather is dry and hard and won't take conditioners, I busted some stitching on the seat bottom a few weeks ago, and the leather is coated leather so it's glossy and slippery. I stuck with black, black stitching, but decided to get 'alcantara' center sections for a little less slipping around in the seats. Here's to hoping they turn out nice and fit well.

Seat covers as in replacements for the oem skins? Where’d you get them from? 
 

ive been thinking about getting some from Lseat.com for my Miata. Little company in Texas, prices seemed pretty good. Color match won’t be exact though 

 

https://www.lseat.com/products/2001-2005-mazda-mx-5-miata-custom-real-leather-seat-covers-front.html 

 

I want to do lotus seats to get lower in the car but there’s no way I can afford that lol


"There is nothing more difficult than fixing something that isn't all the way broken yet." - Author Unknown

"A redline a day keeps depression at bay" - Author Unknown

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53 minutes ago, bcredeur97 said:

Seat covers as in replacements for the oem skins? Where’d you get them from? 
 

ive been thinking about getting some from Lseat.com for my Miata. Little company in Texas, prices seemed pretty good. Color match won’t be exact though 

 

https://www.lseat.com/products/2001-2005-mazda-mx-5-miata-custom-real-leather-seat-covers-front.html 

 

I want to do lotus seats to get lower in the car but there’s no way I can afford that lol

From there. Generally well reviewed on forums but poor customer service, so I'm rolling the dice that they get it right. It'll be nice to have leather seats finally that aren't a slippery polished gloss surface. I've seen their leather materials described as being more textured than Toyota leather and with a little more friction, so likely not coated leather but also possibly not exactly 100% hide leather either. Might be a blended or bonded leather material, still leather but not really leather. Whatever it is, for the price and just being new I'm sure I'll be happy. I went with the Alcantara centers to make the seats more grippy with maybe I didn't need to do but it'll also make them less hot and sweaty I hope.

 

LandCruiser and LX guys seem to love them and they look good in those cars.

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Finally put some rubber on the blue te37s. They seem smaller than the white 16s i took off dispite being  actually a inch bigger.

 

JVRs6SB.jpg

 

Also it never suprises me how expensive parts are for this car.  Had a clunk in the rear drivetrain.  Took a look underneath and quickly found the culprit to be the diff mount bushing.  300$ for a ring of rubber.  At least it was easy to change and fairly quick.

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31 minutes ago, JokerProduction said:

Finally put some rubber on the blue te37s. They seem smaller than the white 16s i took off dispite being  actually a inch bigger.

 

JVRs6SB.jpg

 

Also it never suprises me how expensive parts are for this car.  Had a clunk in the rear drivetrain.  Took a look underneath and quickly found the culprit to be the diff mount bushing.  300$ for a ring of rubber.  At least it was easy to change and fairly quick.

Sticking with rubber? Not going with that Polish guy that does poly?

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5 hours ago, Bitter said:

From there. Generally well reviewed on forums but poor customer service, so I'm rolling the dice that they get it right. It'll be nice to have leather seats finally that aren't a slippery polished gloss surface. I've seen their leather materials described as being more textured than Toyota leather and with a little more friction, so likely not coated leather but also possibly not exactly 100% hide leather either. Might be a blended or bonded leather material, still leather but not really leather. Whatever it is, for the price and just being new I'm sure I'll be happy. I went with the Alcantara centers to make the seats more grippy with maybe I didn't need to do but it'll also make them less hot and sweaty I hope.

 

LandCruiser and LX guys seem to love them and they look good in those cars.

didn't know you could get alcantara centers with them.. didn't see that option. Or is that a "email them and ask" sort of thing?

Let me know how they are! In one place I've seen people have trouble with them being too loose, but there may be some way to shrink leather a bit or something.


"There is nothing more difficult than fixing something that isn't all the way broken yet." - Author Unknown

"A redline a day keeps depression at bay" - Author Unknown

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3 minutes ago, bcredeur97 said:

didn't know you could get alcantara centers with them.. didn't see that option. Or is that a "email them and ask" sort of thing?

Let me know how they are! In one place I've seen people have trouble with them being too loose, but there may be some way to shrink leather a bit or something.

Yeah, you have to ask them if they can do more custom things like that and add it to the order at check out. I also emailed them to make sure that was OK and if they could and then confirmed the pricing and let them know my order was in. It's probably not real brand name trade marked alcantara fabric, but it should be nice.

 

As far as fit a few things can throw that off, if the seat foam under them is compressed it'll fit looser. Also you need some heat cycles to shrink the leather down a little bit, you can park in the sun on a hot day a few times or correctly steam the leather. It'll shrink up on it's own over time though anyway.

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Proper British engineering...

 


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On 5/30/2020 at 8:29 PM, Bitter said:

Sticking with rubber? Not going with that Polish guy that does poly?

 

I talked to him first but he ended up being a huge ripoff on shipping and he wanted double the miney for a core charge so id have to deal with shipping the rotted part back.  

 

I could of got an pattern oem part for about a 3rd of the cost but still opted to get a factory original while there still available.  The orinal rubber one lasted 25 years.

 

I  put poly bushings(suspension)on my other celica and they kinda suck for a car that is stored outside and sees all 4 seasons of canaidian climate.  They bind or get noisy and require a fair amount of maintence and i wouldnt use them on anything but a full trailered race car that is garage kept.

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1 hour ago, JokerProduction said:

 

I talked to him first but he ended up being a huge ripoff on shipping and he wanted double the miney for a core charge so id have to deal with shipping the rotted part back.  

 

I could of got an pattern oem part for about a 3rd of the cost but still opted to get a factory original while there still available.  The orinal rubber one lasted 25 years.

 

I  put poly bushings(suspension)on my other celica and they kinda suck for a car that is stored outside and sees all 4 seasons of canaidian climate.  They bind or get noisy and require a fair amount of maintence and i wouldnt use them on anything but a full trailered race car that is garage kept.

Makes sense, didn't realize he was such a pain. I guess he's good for the bushings he's already producing. Rubber might be better there anyway to take up drive line shock rather than breaking more expensive parts.

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Frame has been rust stripped as far as I could and painted, taillight and rear indicators rewired, polished the engine covers and washed it(though the superwash did almost nothing, no clue why... Maybe I need some degreaser or something?) looks a lot better now at least! :D

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IMG_20200601_201549.jpg

IMG_20200601_202020.jpg


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#1. Treat others as you would like to be treated.

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14 minutes ago, barkydoggo said:

New intakes get!

Image

 

You can actually hear the turbos spool and the DVs shoot air back into the intake. Terrible sound clip:

 

Just make sure to do engine cleaning service periodically Hyundai's and Kias have engine sludge issues.


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yaaas kels is back!!

 

 


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51 minutes ago, MadyTehWolfie said:

Just make sure to do engine cleaning service periodically Hyundai's and Kias have engine sludge issues.

One thing I don’t understand is sludge issues....

 

Sludge is just old oil, right?  how is a buildup possible if the user is changing the oil As they should?  Other cars should be no different. 
 

you could say Old oil is being leftover after every change, but it’s so unlikely that ONLY the old oil isn’t draining each time. 
 

or are we talking about carbon deposits in the intake system here? 


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"A redline a day keeps depression at bay" - Author Unknown

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16 minutes ago, bcredeur97 said:

One thing I don’t understand is sludge issues....

 

Sludge is just old oil, right?  how is a buildup possible if the user is changing the oil As they should?  Other cars should be no different. 
 

you could say Old oil is being leftover after every change, but it’s so unlikely that ONLY the old oil isn’t draining each time. 
 

or are we talking about carbon deposits in the intake system here? 

Honestly I'm not an engineer so I cant really tell you why all I can say is what happens. I see over 700 cars a month. Kia and Hyundai's get this even as low as 14k miles id your really unlucky. Its definitely from the design just dont know what. That being said some of the kias and hyundais use euro spec oil forgot which one all I know it was a turbo model and was an SUV. 

 

Edit: Definitely not carbon deposits from the intake valves. 🤔 Possibly  from oil being too hot or something? Maybe something to do with the oil system.


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1 hour ago, MadyTehWolfie said:

Honestly I'm not an engineer so I cant really tell you why all I can say is what happens. I see over 700 cars a month. Kia and Hyundai's get this even as low as 14k miles id your really unlucky. Its definitely from the design just dont know what. That being said some of the kias and hyundais use euro spec oil forgot which one all I know it was a turbo model and was an SUV. 

 

Edit: Definitely not carbon deposits from the intake valves. 🤔 Possibly  from oil being too hot or something? Maybe something to do with the oil system.

Noted! I'm a strict follower of the OCI, and I'd definitely believe that they get that way. This thing burns pretty hot what with the turbos. I guess it probably wouldn't be a bad idea to do a seafoam treatment this weekend. I bet part of the issue is Kia doesn't mandate that this car use full synthetic oil. I've been running full synthetic since day 1 due to some hard lessons with turbo VWs in the past.

 

I have already had the dealer do a carbon "maintenance" which is basically just seafoaming the intake.

 

You at an indy shop or dealer?

 

(PS: your avatar is excellent lol)

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7 minutes ago, barkydoggo said:

Noted! I'm a strict follower of the OCI, and I'd definitely believe that they get that way. This thing burns pretty hot what with the turbos. I guess it probably wouldn't be a bad idea to do a seafoam treatment this weekend. I bet part of the issue is Kia doesn't mandate that this car use full synthetic oil. I've been running full synthetic since day 1 due to some hard lessons with turbo VWs in the past.

 

I have already had the dealer do a carbon "maintenance" which is basically just seafoaming the intake.

 

You at an indy shop or dealer?

 

(PS: your avatar is excellent lol)

No synthetic? That might be the issue. I wonder if factory fill is conventional oil...

 

I’ve honestly never even seen synthetic oil sludge up yet, now that you mention it. 


"There is nothing more difficult than fixing something that isn't all the way broken yet." - Author Unknown

"A redline a day keeps depression at bay" - Author Unknown

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30 minutes ago, barkydoggo said:

Noted! I'm a strict follower of the OCI, and I'd definitely believe that they get that way. This thing burns pretty hot what with the turbos. I guess it probably wouldn't be a bad idea to do a seafoam treatment this weekend. I bet part of the issue is Kia doesn't mandate that this car use full synthetic oil. I've been running full synthetic since day 1 due to some hard lessons with turbo VWs in the past.

 

I have already had the dealer do a carbon "maintenance" which is basically just seafoaming the intake.

 

You at an indy shop or dealer?

 

(PS: your avatar is excellent lol)

If your car is DI then a carbon cleaning of the valves would be a good idea. With port injection its not really much of an issue. There are engine cleaning oils you can run in your car for 5 min that clean out sludge buildup and staining on the internals. Works pretty good tbh. Run rite makes a decent engine cleaner. Back in the day they used to put transmission fluid and run it for a little bit before draining and refilling with oil. The 1.8T in the vw and audis had sludge issues regardless of what you do. Im sure theres an exact reason or variables that play a role I just havnt researched them enough yet.

21 minutes ago, bcredeur97 said:

No synthetic? That might be the issue. I wonder if factory fill is conventional oil...

 

I’ve honestly never even seen synthetic oil sludge up yet, now that you mention it. 

It sludge's up with either however every customer that uses conventional it happens much sooner, also depends on how long they also go in-between oil changes and what kind they use. 


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