First budget DSLR - under $400 w/ lens - Product shots

[MayflowerElectronics]

So I got the new lens in today, I think I might have a problem with it.

 

So when I turn the VR on, it sounds like a little motor is grinding inside, it's pretty audible. When I turn it off, (VR) it stops. Second thing is when in auto focusing, it makes pretty loud clicks and noises, which it does not in the stock lens. 

 

Stock lens is 18-55mm, new lens is 55-200mm

 

Here's the specs, and where I bought it from.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/121171535018?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

[MrSuperb]

So when I turn the VR on, it sounds like a little motor is grinding inside, it's pretty audible. When I turn it off, (VR) it stops. Second thing is when in auto focusing, it makes pretty loud clicks and noises, which it does not in the stock lens. 

 

VR is noisy

____

There are basicaly sensors integrate into the lens to track any movements amd counteract them by moving a lens around.

http://www.nikon.com/about/technology/rd/core/software/vr_e/index.htm

[MayflowerElectronics]

VR is noisy

____

There are basicaly sensors integrate into the lens to track any movements amd counteract them by moving a lens around.

http://www.nikon.com/about/technology/rd/core/software/vr_e/index.htm

 

So why is it so audible? It actually makes the entire body vibrate as well, as well as why doesn't the stock lens do that?

 

Should I RMA this lens?

[MrSuperb]

So why is it so audible? It actually makes the entire body vibrate as well, as well as why doesn't the stock lens do that?

 

Should I RMA this lens?

 

When activated the VR-system constantly has to counteract the movement of the lens. Those moters are noisy and it's normal.

As I can't hear zou lens, I can't tell you if there is something wrong with,

With the 18-55 being a far short lens (focal length wise) I could imagine the VR-system has less 'work' to do.

 

You could go to a photo shop nearby and maybe try one of their lenses to check.

[MayflowerElectronics]

Eh, I should've googled this before I said anything, I guess it's normal with these lenses. It takes good shots, just not used to the noise.

 

Just need to get a micro/macro lens for intense close shots and I should be all set, though the standard 18-55mm lens is my favorite so far.

[MrSuperb]

Just need to get a micro/macro lens for intense close shots and I should be all set, though the standard 18-55mm lens is my favorite so far.

 

well you could use the 55-200 for that, if you don't need to get to 'close'

 

Don't use the VR together with a tripod btw.

[MayflowerElectronics]

 

well you could use the 55-200 for that, if you don't need to get to 'close'

 

Don't use the VR together with a tripod btw.

 

Nice, was this with a 55-200?

[Silvercall]

Instead of getting a Macro/micro lens, you could maybe invest in a macro filter like the Canon 500D http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/87494-REG/Canon_2822A001_58mm_500D_Close_up_Lens.html

 

I don't think it matters what lens mount you use, you just crew it infront of your lens like a regular filter.  I've never used one but have seen preety good results from it.  Plus it is a fraction of the cost of a new lens.

[Puppet]

@MayflowerElectronics

 

Hey sorry it took so long to get back today, left my triggers in a friends car, he was working late so had to wait for him to get out.

 

Ended up having to set this up back at home, in my bedroom too as I'm decorating the living room, so there wasn't much space.

 

Here's a shot of the set-up I would recommend for your desired look:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/dv4m1mlu2676jpw/setup2.jpg

 

Equipment:

 

2x Lighting stand

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/262758-REG/Impact_LS_6B_Light_Stand_Black.html (example)

 

2x Umbrella mounts

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/101791-REG/Samigon_CSA438_CSA438_Pro_Umbrella_Holder.html (example)

 

2x Yongnuo YN-560 II (Cheap but a good introduction into using flash, so far I have found them very reliable)

http://www.amazon.com/Yongnuo-YN-560-Speedlight-Flash-Nikon/dp/B0079M711S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1381279742&sr=8-1&keywords=yongnuo+560+ii

 

Wireless trigger and receiver set

http://www.calumetphoto.com/product/calumet-pro-series-2.4ghz-4-channel-wireless-trigger-kit-optimized-for-nikon-flash-systems/CF0094/?tracking=|searchterm:wireless|trigger (These are relatively cheap, and again I have found them to be very reliable)

 

And of course the lighting cube and backdrop. Camera is a 5d MkIII and using 24-105mm f/4L, usually for this sort of thing I would go for my 100mm f/2.8L macro, although I didn't have it on me, but the lens I used should have more similar characteristics to your own.

 

Result:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/ev2h675gha6zo78/Cropped.jpg

 

Kept it nice and simple, didn't blow out the background and left a nice soft shadow in there, similar to the photo you gave as an example. No creases because of the curve on the backdrop and no texture from using fabric.

 

I planned the shot accordingly, assuming that I would be cropping to a wide aspect ratio, making sure to only crop the center of the image. Cropping out of corners will make the photo appear slightly skewed because of distortion and also it's not getting the most out of your resolution, not usually a major issue with modern digital cameras but makes the noise on an image stand out more.

 

Original image and crop marks:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/yjjhzs5g0yute9g/Cropmark.jpg

 

This is a very simple type of shot and easily achievable with the equipment you have got, in fact you could probably do better I had to rush this quite a bit. Although I would recommend upgrading to some flash units, not only will they improve the quality but also will teach you a lot more about exposure.

 

Again these are very basic product shots and can be improved on greatly with reflective materials, lighting gels etc, but this is a good starting point.

 

Hope this helped

[MayflowerElectronics]

Your picture links are broken, do you have a link to them?

[Puppet]

Your picture links are broken, do you have a link to them?

Yeah must have been too big, should be working now with just the links.

[MayflowerElectronics]

So ditch the incandescent lights? Man I'm starting to run out of rainy day funds.

 

(BTW congrats on the 1000th post).

 

If I upgraded my flash with this here - with the flash you linked and used the backdrop paper, do you think I could get some decent shots? I don't think I have enough right now to buy a new set of lights, stands and remote right now.

[Puppet]

So ditch the incandescent lights? Man I'm starting to run out of rainy day funds.

 

(BTW congrats on the 1000th post).

 

If I upgraded my flash with this here - with the flash you linked and used the backdrop paper, do you think I could get some decent shots? I don't think I have enough right now to buy a new set of lights, stands and remote right now.

 

Aha thanks Didn't even notice. At least I was providing useful info for it, makes a change :lol:

 

Well not exactly right away, but I would plan ahead for it.

 

Continuous lights generally have a very poor light quality that can affect sharpness and reproduction of colors, you can get decent ones, but they are even bigger money than these relatively cheap flash units. Flashes have other great qualities as well, the color temp is very similar to natural light so they can be mixed easily.

 

All that being said you should be able to improve slightly on your original shots with the equipment you have got, the lizard shots were nice and sharp, WB was off and they were a little noisy, but using a tripod will allow you to drop your shutter speed on still objects, giving you the ability to drop your ISO. This post was really only to help you set up the seamless so you can get a nice smooth background, but dropping in some info on how you can improve on lighting in the future can't hurt.

 

You're doing really great so far, just keep going he way you're going

[MrSuperb]

Nice, was this with a 55-200?

 

Yes with the Nikon 55-200mm and a Nikon D40

[MayflowerElectronics]

Here's my first attempt at the new setup.

 

 

Edited

 

 

original

[MrSuperb]

Here's my first attempt at the new setup.

 

 

 

Edited

 

 

 

original

 

It isn't sharp. can you post the real original or at least the exif data?

[MayflowerElectronics]

I linked the original.

[Silvercall]

Do you remember the settings of the camera for those shots? If you want maximum sharpness, you will have to "stop down" your lens. That means make your aperture smaller. So the larger the aperture "number", the smaller the aperture ie. F/22 is a small hole while F/4 is much larger. Smaller apertures will let you have more in focus. Aperture also effects how much ambient light will affect your shot. Are your flashes or flash connected to your camera? How are you metering the shot? The origin photo (unedited) looks fairly underexposed. You want to try and get it as properly exposed in camera rather than trying to fix it too much in post.

http://strobist.blogspot.ca/2006/03/lighting-101-balancing-flash-and.html

[Puppet]

Yeah there is meta data usually attached to images (referred to as EXIF), yours appears to be missing, possibly lost in the editing workflow?

 

The edited shot is definitely getting better, not liking how you have had to edit it so much to adjust exposure from the original though and sharpness is not as good as you are capable of.

 

Posting your settings will give us better info on how to adjust your settings, dropping shutter speed will give you a lot more options though. Have you got a tripod?

[MrSuperb]

 If you want maximum sharpness, you will have to "stop down" your lens. That means make your aperture smaller. So the larger the aperture "number", the smaller the aperture ie. F/22 is a small hole while F/4 is much larger. Smaller apertures will let you have more in focus.

 

Though he shouldn't go under F/8-F/11 with that lens, from their on the pictures will lose sharpness again (critical aperture / diffraction blur)

[MrSuperb]

Yeah there is meta data usually attached to images (referred to as EXIF), yours appears to be missing, possibly lost in the editing workflow?

 

metadata is lost through uploading at imgur : /

[MayflowerElectronics]

Yeah there is meta data usually attached to images (referred to as EXIF), yours appears to be missing, possibly lost in the editing workflow?

 

The edited shot is definitely getting better, not liking how you have had to edit it so much to adjust exposure from the original though and sharpness is not as good as you are capable of.

 

Posting your settings will give us better info on how to adjust your settings, dropping shutter speed will give you a lot more options though. Have you got a tripod?

 

No, I don't remember the settings.

 

Yes, I have a really nice tri-pod I relieved with the camera, what exact settings should I use?

 

Right now the ISO is at 100 (it's all I can remember)

[Silvercall]

Have you got a tripod?

LOL, was just going to ask this. For product shots it might be best to keep the camera on stable legs no matter what the shutter speed is. In the case of your shots above, the blur is NOT due to camera shake IMO but just not enough depth of field (aperture setting). Using the tripod will let you have a smaller aperture while also let you DEcrease the shutter speed.

[Puppet]

Though he shouldn't go under F/8-F/11 with that lens, from their on the pictures will lose sharpness again (critical aperture / diffraction blur)

 

Yeah and also with zoom lenses, there are "sweet spots" in the range of focal lengths, again usually around the middle.

 

metadata is lost through uploading at imgur : /

 

Ah I see, I have been using Dropbox, it preserves metadata, you should go with that Mayflower it will help with the guidance.

 

 

No, I don't remember the settings.

 

Yes, I have a really nice tri-pod I relieved with the camera, what exact settings should I use?

 

Right now the ISO is at 100 (it's all I can remember)

 

Have you got the 55-200? If so shoot at around 100-150mm mark

 

Start at f/8, depending on the product you may want to decrease this (raise F stop number) to give you a narrower DOF.

ISO 100

Then decrease your shutter speed until the image is exposed correctly.

[Silvercall]

I've been thinking....  Just send me the products like the O2 and ODAC and I'll take the shots for you.  I can't promise that the items will make it back to you though...  Canada post is notorious for losing stuff.