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"Bong" CPU Cooler

Mount an entire system to an anti-griddle (flat like you would with a wall mounted PC) with a few heat transfer pipes soldered to copper blocks on the critical components (CPU and/or GPU) to the surface of the anti-griddle. Could probably find a used  one for cheap at a kitchen supply re-seller or online. You could easily get below zero temps on all components with a decent wattage one.

 

You could also find a surplus histology plate (bio lab equipment), that can hold temps of less than -30C.

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Having issues with a Corsair AIO? Possible fix here:

Spoiler

Are you getting weird fan behavior, speed fluctuations, and/or other issues with Link?

Are you running AIDA64, HWinfo, CAM, or HWmonitor? (ASUS suite & other monitoring software often have the same issue.)

Corsair Link has problems with some monitoring software so you may have to change some settings to get them to work smoothly.

-For AIDA64: First make sure you have the newest update installed, then, go to Preferences>Stability and make sure the "Corsair Link sensor support" box is checked and make sure the "Asetek LC sensor support" box is UNchecked.

-For HWinfo: manually disable all monitoring of the AIO sensors/components.

-For others: Disable any monitoring of Corsair AIO sensors.

That should fix the fan issue for some Corsair AIOs (H80i GT/v2, H110i GTX/H115i, H100i GTX and others made by Asetek). The problem is bad coding in Link that fights for AIO control with other programs. You can test if this worked by setting the fan speed in Link to 100%, if it doesn't fluctuate you are set and can change the curve to whatever. If that doesn't work or you're still having other issues then you probably still have a monitoring software interfering with the AIO/Link communications, find what it is and disable it.

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So would this work as an air conditioner if I ran it through a radiator?

 

Breaking things 1 day at a time

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3 minutes ago, TubsAlwaysWins said:

So would this work as an air conditioner if I ran it through a radiator?

Yes but only if the AC unit is rated to constantly displace at least as much heat energy as you generate with the system. Would be a cool project to try. Maybe I'll try to find a junk AC unit and see if I can get results with an old Athlon system I still have. I wonder if heat pipes would transfer enough heat or if it'd have to be a water cooling system.

Primary PC-

CPU: Intel i7-6800k @ 4.2-4.4Ghz   CPU COOLER: Bequiet Dark Rock Pro 4   MOBO: MSI X99A SLI Plus   RAM: 32GB Corsair Vengeance LPX quad-channel DDR4-2800  GPU: EVGA GTX 1080 SC2 iCX   PSU: Corsair RM1000i   CASE: Corsair 750D Obsidian   SSDs: 500GB Samsung 960 Evo + 256GB Samsung 850 Pro   HDDs: Toshiba 3TB + Seagate 1TB   Monitors: Acer Predator XB271HUC 27" 2560x1440 (165Hz G-Sync)  +  LG 29UM57 29" 2560x1080   OS: Windows 10 Pro

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CPU: AMD FX-8320 @ 4.4Ghz  MOBO: Gigabyte 990FXA-UD3   RAM: 16GB dual-channel DDR3-1600  GPU: Gigabyte GTX 760 OC   PSU: Rosewill 750W   CASE: Antec Gaming One   SSD: 120GB PNY CS1311   HDDs: WD Red 3TB + WD 320GB   Monitor: Samsung SyncMaster 2693HM 26" 1920x1200 -or- Steam Link to Vizio M43C1 43" 4K TV  OS: Windows 10 Pro

 

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CPU: 2x Xeon E5645 (12-core)  Model: Dell PowerEdge T610  RAM: 16GB DDR3-1333  PSUs: 2x 570W  SSDs: 8GB Kingston Boot FD + 32GB Sandisk Cache SSD   HDDs: WD Red 4TB + Seagate 2TB + Seagate 320GB   OS: FreeNAS 11+

 

Laptop-

CPU: Intel i7-3520M   Model: Dell Latitude E6530   RAM: 8GB dual-channel DDR3-1600  GPU: Nvidia NVS 5200M   SSD: 240GB TeamGroup L5   HDD: WD Black 320GB   Monitor: Samsung SyncMaster 2693HM 26" 1920x1200   OS: Windows 10 Pro

Having issues with a Corsair AIO? Possible fix here:

Spoiler

Are you getting weird fan behavior, speed fluctuations, and/or other issues with Link?

Are you running AIDA64, HWinfo, CAM, or HWmonitor? (ASUS suite & other monitoring software often have the same issue.)

Corsair Link has problems with some monitoring software so you may have to change some settings to get them to work smoothly.

-For AIDA64: First make sure you have the newest update installed, then, go to Preferences>Stability and make sure the "Corsair Link sensor support" box is checked and make sure the "Asetek LC sensor support" box is UNchecked.

-For HWinfo: manually disable all monitoring of the AIO sensors/components.

-For others: Disable any monitoring of Corsair AIO sensors.

That should fix the fan issue for some Corsair AIOs (H80i GT/v2, H110i GTX/H115i, H100i GTX and others made by Asetek). The problem is bad coding in Link that fights for AIO control with other programs. You can test if this worked by setting the fan speed in Link to 100%, if it doesn't fluctuate you are set and can change the curve to whatever. If that doesn't work or you're still having other issues then you probably still have a monitoring software interfering with the AIO/Link communications, find what it is and disable it.

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2 minutes ago, pyrojoe34 said:

Yes but only if the AC unit is rated to constantly displace at least as much heat energy as you generate with the system. Would be a cool project to try. Maybe I'll try to find a junk AC unit and see if I can get results with an old Athlon system I still have. I wonder if heat pipes would transfer enough heat or if it'd have to be a water cooling system.

Not really what I was asking about but that is another idea ive had

I was wondering if I made a Bong cooling system, instead of running it through a waterblock, if I just ran it into a radiatior to act as a AC unit? (So Bong AC Unit, not Bong CPU cooler)

 

Breaking things 1 day at a time

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9 minutes ago, TubsAlwaysWins said:

Not really what I was asking about but that is another idea ive had

I was wondering if I made a Bong cooling system, instead of running it through a waterblock, if I just ran it into a radiatior to act as a AC unit? (So Bong AC Unit, not Bong CPU cooler)

Like this? (https://www.google.com/search?q=evaporative+cooler&prmd=sivn&source=lnms&tbm=shop&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjd2aiX8P_MAhVHLmMKHfgBA78Q_AUICCgB&biw=320&bih=460)

 

yes, they're a cheaper alternative to AC units but they only work well in really dry climates (humidity destroys their effectiveness). You can also get a mild but similar effect by just putting a tray of water by a fan on a hot dry day or soaking a towel in water and letting the fan blow through it (although this would be way less effective than  properly designed evap cooler.

Primary PC-

CPU: Intel i7-6800k @ 4.2-4.4Ghz   CPU COOLER: Bequiet Dark Rock Pro 4   MOBO: MSI X99A SLI Plus   RAM: 32GB Corsair Vengeance LPX quad-channel DDR4-2800  GPU: EVGA GTX 1080 SC2 iCX   PSU: Corsair RM1000i   CASE: Corsair 750D Obsidian   SSDs: 500GB Samsung 960 Evo + 256GB Samsung 850 Pro   HDDs: Toshiba 3TB + Seagate 1TB   Monitors: Acer Predator XB271HUC 27" 2560x1440 (165Hz G-Sync)  +  LG 29UM57 29" 2560x1080   OS: Windows 10 Pro

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CPU: AMD FX-8320 @ 4.4Ghz  MOBO: Gigabyte 990FXA-UD3   RAM: 16GB dual-channel DDR3-1600  GPU: Gigabyte GTX 760 OC   PSU: Rosewill 750W   CASE: Antec Gaming One   SSD: 120GB PNY CS1311   HDDs: WD Red 3TB + WD 320GB   Monitor: Samsung SyncMaster 2693HM 26" 1920x1200 -or- Steam Link to Vizio M43C1 43" 4K TV  OS: Windows 10 Pro

 

Offsite NAS/VM Server-

CPU: 2x Xeon E5645 (12-core)  Model: Dell PowerEdge T610  RAM: 16GB DDR3-1333  PSUs: 2x 570W  SSDs: 8GB Kingston Boot FD + 32GB Sandisk Cache SSD   HDDs: WD Red 4TB + Seagate 2TB + Seagate 320GB   OS: FreeNAS 11+

 

Laptop-

CPU: Intel i7-3520M   Model: Dell Latitude E6530   RAM: 8GB dual-channel DDR3-1600  GPU: Nvidia NVS 5200M   SSD: 240GB TeamGroup L5   HDD: WD Black 320GB   Monitor: Samsung SyncMaster 2693HM 26" 1920x1200   OS: Windows 10 Pro

Having issues with a Corsair AIO? Possible fix here:

Spoiler

Are you getting weird fan behavior, speed fluctuations, and/or other issues with Link?

Are you running AIDA64, HWinfo, CAM, or HWmonitor? (ASUS suite & other monitoring software often have the same issue.)

Corsair Link has problems with some monitoring software so you may have to change some settings to get them to work smoothly.

-For AIDA64: First make sure you have the newest update installed, then, go to Preferences>Stability and make sure the "Corsair Link sensor support" box is checked and make sure the "Asetek LC sensor support" box is UNchecked.

-For HWinfo: manually disable all monitoring of the AIO sensors/components.

-For others: Disable any monitoring of Corsair AIO sensors.

That should fix the fan issue for some Corsair AIOs (H80i GT/v2, H110i GTX/H115i, H100i GTX and others made by Asetek). The problem is bad coding in Link that fights for AIO control with other programs. You can test if this worked by setting the fan speed in Link to 100%, if it doesn't fluctuate you are set and can change the curve to whatever. If that doesn't work or you're still having other issues then you probably still have a monitoring software interfering with the AIO/Link communications, find what it is and disable it.

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1 minute ago, pyrojoe34 said:

Like this? (https://www.google.com/search?q=evaporative+cooler&prmd=sivn&source=lnms&tbm=shop&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjd2aiX8P_MAhVHLmMKHfgBA78Q_AUICCgB&biw=320&bih=460)

 

yes, they're a cheaper alternative to AC units but they only work well in really dry climates (humidity destroys their effectiveness). You can also get a mild but similar effect by just putting a tray of water by a fan on a hot dry day (although this would be way less effective than  properly designed evap cooler.

Yeah something like that

 

Breaking things 1 day at a time

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6 minutes ago, TubsAlwaysWins said:

Yeah something like that

The concept is actually essentially the same as an AC or fridge except those use a closed system and a condenser to phase change. Liquid to gas on the cold side, then a condenser converts it back to liquid on the hot side and a fan blows the extra heat out of the house. The liquid than goes back to the cold side and the cycle starts over. This is also why an air "conditioner" conditions (de-humidifies) the air and why they don't work as well in dry climates.

Primary PC-

CPU: Intel i7-6800k @ 4.2-4.4Ghz   CPU COOLER: Bequiet Dark Rock Pro 4   MOBO: MSI X99A SLI Plus   RAM: 32GB Corsair Vengeance LPX quad-channel DDR4-2800  GPU: EVGA GTX 1080 SC2 iCX   PSU: Corsair RM1000i   CASE: Corsair 750D Obsidian   SSDs: 500GB Samsung 960 Evo + 256GB Samsung 850 Pro   HDDs: Toshiba 3TB + Seagate 1TB   Monitors: Acer Predator XB271HUC 27" 2560x1440 (165Hz G-Sync)  +  LG 29UM57 29" 2560x1080   OS: Windows 10 Pro

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CPU: AMD FX-8320 @ 4.4Ghz  MOBO: Gigabyte 990FXA-UD3   RAM: 16GB dual-channel DDR3-1600  GPU: Gigabyte GTX 760 OC   PSU: Rosewill 750W   CASE: Antec Gaming One   SSD: 120GB PNY CS1311   HDDs: WD Red 3TB + WD 320GB   Monitor: Samsung SyncMaster 2693HM 26" 1920x1200 -or- Steam Link to Vizio M43C1 43" 4K TV  OS: Windows 10 Pro

 

Offsite NAS/VM Server-

CPU: 2x Xeon E5645 (12-core)  Model: Dell PowerEdge T610  RAM: 16GB DDR3-1333  PSUs: 2x 570W  SSDs: 8GB Kingston Boot FD + 32GB Sandisk Cache SSD   HDDs: WD Red 4TB + Seagate 2TB + Seagate 320GB   OS: FreeNAS 11+

 

Laptop-

CPU: Intel i7-3520M   Model: Dell Latitude E6530   RAM: 8GB dual-channel DDR3-1600  GPU: Nvidia NVS 5200M   SSD: 240GB TeamGroup L5   HDD: WD Black 320GB   Monitor: Samsung SyncMaster 2693HM 26" 1920x1200   OS: Windows 10 Pro

Having issues with a Corsair AIO? Possible fix here:

Spoiler

Are you getting weird fan behavior, speed fluctuations, and/or other issues with Link?

Are you running AIDA64, HWinfo, CAM, or HWmonitor? (ASUS suite & other monitoring software often have the same issue.)

Corsair Link has problems with some monitoring software so you may have to change some settings to get them to work smoothly.

-For AIDA64: First make sure you have the newest update installed, then, go to Preferences>Stability and make sure the "Corsair Link sensor support" box is checked and make sure the "Asetek LC sensor support" box is UNchecked.

-For HWinfo: manually disable all monitoring of the AIO sensors/components.

-For others: Disable any monitoring of Corsair AIO sensors.

That should fix the fan issue for some Corsair AIOs (H80i GT/v2, H110i GTX/H115i, H100i GTX and others made by Asetek). The problem is bad coding in Link that fights for AIO control with other programs. You can test if this worked by setting the fan speed in Link to 100%, if it doesn't fluctuate you are set and can change the curve to whatever. If that doesn't work or you're still having other issues then you probably still have a monitoring software interfering with the AIO/Link communications, find what it is and disable it.

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1 minute ago, pyrojoe34 said:

The concept is actually essentially the same as an AC or fridge except those use a closed system and a condenser to phase change. Liquid to gas on the cold side, then a condenser converts it back to liquid on the hot side and a fan blows the extra heat out of the house. The liquid than goes back to the cold side and the cycle starts over.

So it would work it would just be louder and cool alt slower?

 

Breaking things 1 day at a time

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2 minutes ago, TubsAlwaysWins said:

So it would work it would just be louder and cool alt slower?

Evap cooler would be quieter since all you need is a fan, an AC needs two fans and a pump and condenser.

Primary PC-

CPU: Intel i7-6800k @ 4.2-4.4Ghz   CPU COOLER: Bequiet Dark Rock Pro 4   MOBO: MSI X99A SLI Plus   RAM: 32GB Corsair Vengeance LPX quad-channel DDR4-2800  GPU: EVGA GTX 1080 SC2 iCX   PSU: Corsair RM1000i   CASE: Corsair 750D Obsidian   SSDs: 500GB Samsung 960 Evo + 256GB Samsung 850 Pro   HDDs: Toshiba 3TB + Seagate 1TB   Monitors: Acer Predator XB271HUC 27" 2560x1440 (165Hz G-Sync)  +  LG 29UM57 29" 2560x1080   OS: Windows 10 Pro

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Spoiler

Home HTPC/NAS-

CPU: AMD FX-8320 @ 4.4Ghz  MOBO: Gigabyte 990FXA-UD3   RAM: 16GB dual-channel DDR3-1600  GPU: Gigabyte GTX 760 OC   PSU: Rosewill 750W   CASE: Antec Gaming One   SSD: 120GB PNY CS1311   HDDs: WD Red 3TB + WD 320GB   Monitor: Samsung SyncMaster 2693HM 26" 1920x1200 -or- Steam Link to Vizio M43C1 43" 4K TV  OS: Windows 10 Pro

 

Offsite NAS/VM Server-

CPU: 2x Xeon E5645 (12-core)  Model: Dell PowerEdge T610  RAM: 16GB DDR3-1333  PSUs: 2x 570W  SSDs: 8GB Kingston Boot FD + 32GB Sandisk Cache SSD   HDDs: WD Red 4TB + Seagate 2TB + Seagate 320GB   OS: FreeNAS 11+

 

Laptop-

CPU: Intel i7-3520M   Model: Dell Latitude E6530   RAM: 8GB dual-channel DDR3-1600  GPU: Nvidia NVS 5200M   SSD: 240GB TeamGroup L5   HDD: WD Black 320GB   Monitor: Samsung SyncMaster 2693HM 26" 1920x1200   OS: Windows 10 Pro

Having issues with a Corsair AIO? Possible fix here:

Spoiler

Are you getting weird fan behavior, speed fluctuations, and/or other issues with Link?

Are you running AIDA64, HWinfo, CAM, or HWmonitor? (ASUS suite & other monitoring software often have the same issue.)

Corsair Link has problems with some monitoring software so you may have to change some settings to get them to work smoothly.

-For AIDA64: First make sure you have the newest update installed, then, go to Preferences>Stability and make sure the "Corsair Link sensor support" box is checked and make sure the "Asetek LC sensor support" box is UNchecked.

-For HWinfo: manually disable all monitoring of the AIO sensors/components.

-For others: Disable any monitoring of Corsair AIO sensors.

That should fix the fan issue for some Corsair AIOs (H80i GT/v2, H110i GTX/H115i, H100i GTX and others made by Asetek). The problem is bad coding in Link that fights for AIO control with other programs. You can test if this worked by setting the fan speed in Link to 100%, if it doesn't fluctuate you are set and can change the curve to whatever. If that doesn't work or you're still having other issues then you probably still have a monitoring software interfering with the AIO/Link communications, find what it is and disable it.

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Oh, Linus singles out LTL's video. I do like LTL. Different style, in general quite good.

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7 hours ago, agent_x007 said:

How it works ?
It's quite simple :
DC current "takes" heat from one side, and transfers it to the other side.
It works only in ONE WAY (side 1 => side 2) and it cannot work "in reverse".

Because it's a "powered thing", you can go lower than ambient.
Also : Filling/isolation is required, because water will appear on cold surfaces.
+ U need a really powerfull one to keep CPU cold (68W is minimum, for OC 150W+ is required).

They actually do work either way, you just reverse the polarity 

7 hours ago, CUDA_Cores said:

@nicklmg Next thing you guys should look into is peltier or thermometric cooling and It actually can cool your CPU WAY below ambient temps without worrying about the humidity problem (in your room that is, humidity will still gather around the CPU). You will need to pick up a device like one of these:

zoomPeltier-chips.jpg

 

They can be found on ebay for pretty cheap:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1Pcs-TEC1-12706-12V-6A-72W-Thermoelectric-Cooler-Heat-Sink-Cooling-Peltier-Plate-/282049422963?hash=item41ab74a673:g:mH8AAOSwaG9XJXvM

 

I'm not totally sure how they work, but I do know how they are used. They work by passing electrons through the module and this creates a "hot" side and a "cold" side and somehow this allows you to cool things with it. Basically it allows you to get your CPU below ambient temps. 

 

Some other guy has also attempted the same thing and hit CPU got to 2C!

 

Again I really can't explain how these work but I know this is another form of exotic cooling without using water.

I have 4 of them. Someday I'll make a video and post in the forum. But keeping the hot side cool takes another watercooling loop of its own, and that gets annoying. 

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#Linusbongtips? 

 

6 hours ago, pyrojoe34 said:

Yes but only if the AC unit is rated to constantly displace at least as much heat energy as you generate with the system. Would be a cool project to try. Maybe I'll try to find a junk AC unit and see if I can get results with an old Athlon system I still have. I wonder if heat pipes would transfer enough heat or if it'd have to be a water cooling system.

That's not what he meant. He meant, "can I use a bong cooler to cool my room"

 

The answer to that is " sort of" because the increased humidity will make it feel just as hot, because the evaporative cooling in your body (sweat) won't work as well. 

But if you put it outside then ran the hose inside, you could possibly but only by a few degrees. There is a cooling system at the University of Guelph that works this way

 

The big towers at the top are huge fans, and instead of spraying through a showerhead, it cascades over ribbed sheets of steel. if you look in the bottom few, you can see the water. I believe they are able to get an extra few degrees below ambient this way.

 

 

As an aside, I have always wanted LTT to do a video where they just run tapwater through a cpu loop fresh out of the pipes. because watermains are underground, the nominal temperature of tap water is 4C if you let it run long enough. That'll cool a CPU quite nicely 

cooling tower.JPG

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4 minutes ago, Mandrewoid said:

#Linusbongtips? 

 

That's not what he meant. He meant, "can I use a bong cooler to cool my room"

 

The answer to that is " sort of" because the increased humidity will make it feel just as hot, because the evaporative cooling in your body (sweat) won't work as well. 

But, if you put it outside then ran the hose inside, you could possibly, but only by a few degrees. There is a cooling system at the University of Guelph that works this way

cooling tower.JPG

They're actually pretty popular in dry regions and can make a 5-20°F difference on some days.

 

https://www.google.com/search?q=evaporative+cooler&prmd=sivn&source=lnms&tbm=shop&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjd2aiX8P_MAhVHLmMKHfgBA78Q_AUICCgB&biw=320&bih=460

Primary PC-

CPU: Intel i7-6800k @ 4.2-4.4Ghz   CPU COOLER: Bequiet Dark Rock Pro 4   MOBO: MSI X99A SLI Plus   RAM: 32GB Corsair Vengeance LPX quad-channel DDR4-2800  GPU: EVGA GTX 1080 SC2 iCX   PSU: Corsair RM1000i   CASE: Corsair 750D Obsidian   SSDs: 500GB Samsung 960 Evo + 256GB Samsung 850 Pro   HDDs: Toshiba 3TB + Seagate 1TB   Monitors: Acer Predator XB271HUC 27" 2560x1440 (165Hz G-Sync)  +  LG 29UM57 29" 2560x1080   OS: Windows 10 Pro

Album

Other Systems:

Spoiler

Home HTPC/NAS-

CPU: AMD FX-8320 @ 4.4Ghz  MOBO: Gigabyte 990FXA-UD3   RAM: 16GB dual-channel DDR3-1600  GPU: Gigabyte GTX 760 OC   PSU: Rosewill 750W   CASE: Antec Gaming One   SSD: 120GB PNY CS1311   HDDs: WD Red 3TB + WD 320GB   Monitor: Samsung SyncMaster 2693HM 26" 1920x1200 -or- Steam Link to Vizio M43C1 43" 4K TV  OS: Windows 10 Pro

 

Offsite NAS/VM Server-

CPU: 2x Xeon E5645 (12-core)  Model: Dell PowerEdge T610  RAM: 16GB DDR3-1333  PSUs: 2x 570W  SSDs: 8GB Kingston Boot FD + 32GB Sandisk Cache SSD   HDDs: WD Red 4TB + Seagate 2TB + Seagate 320GB   OS: FreeNAS 11+

 

Laptop-

CPU: Intel i7-3520M   Model: Dell Latitude E6530   RAM: 8GB dual-channel DDR3-1600  GPU: Nvidia NVS 5200M   SSD: 240GB TeamGroup L5   HDD: WD Black 320GB   Monitor: Samsung SyncMaster 2693HM 26" 1920x1200   OS: Windows 10 Pro

Having issues with a Corsair AIO? Possible fix here:

Spoiler

Are you getting weird fan behavior, speed fluctuations, and/or other issues with Link?

Are you running AIDA64, HWinfo, CAM, or HWmonitor? (ASUS suite & other monitoring software often have the same issue.)

Corsair Link has problems with some monitoring software so you may have to change some settings to get them to work smoothly.

-For AIDA64: First make sure you have the newest update installed, then, go to Preferences>Stability and make sure the "Corsair Link sensor support" box is checked and make sure the "Asetek LC sensor support" box is UNchecked.

-For HWinfo: manually disable all monitoring of the AIO sensors/components.

-For others: Disable any monitoring of Corsair AIO sensors.

That should fix the fan issue for some Corsair AIOs (H80i GT/v2, H110i GTX/H115i, H100i GTX and others made by Asetek). The problem is bad coding in Link that fights for AIO control with other programs. You can test if this worked by setting the fan speed in Link to 100%, if it doesn't fluctuate you are set and can change the curve to whatever. If that doesn't work or you're still having other issues then you probably still have a monitoring software interfering with the AIO/Link communications, find what it is and disable it.

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16 hours ago, Ronda said:

And how quickly does it overgrow with algae being continuously fed surrounding air and non-distilled water?

Well it is made of pvc so light is not really an issue so algae wont grow also if you use distilled water spores from existing algae need to find a way in first... you would be more likely to have bacteria or mildew in there... 

 

 

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1 minute ago, Lunas said:

Well it is made of pvc so light is not really an issue so algae wont grow also if you use distilled water spores from existing algae need to find a way in first... you would be more likely to have bacteria or mildew in there... 

 

 

The moving water helps a lot and a bit of algae/fungicide and you'll be fine, since you have to refill it often just add some every few times you refill the water.

 

The distilled water doesn't help much as soon as it's poured in, it's not a sterile system and there are spores floating around in the air all the time that will get in right away.

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CPU: Intel i7-6800k @ 4.2-4.4Ghz   CPU COOLER: Bequiet Dark Rock Pro 4   MOBO: MSI X99A SLI Plus   RAM: 32GB Corsair Vengeance LPX quad-channel DDR4-2800  GPU: EVGA GTX 1080 SC2 iCX   PSU: Corsair RM1000i   CASE: Corsair 750D Obsidian   SSDs: 500GB Samsung 960 Evo + 256GB Samsung 850 Pro   HDDs: Toshiba 3TB + Seagate 1TB   Monitors: Acer Predator XB271HUC 27" 2560x1440 (165Hz G-Sync)  +  LG 29UM57 29" 2560x1080   OS: Windows 10 Pro

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CPU: AMD FX-8320 @ 4.4Ghz  MOBO: Gigabyte 990FXA-UD3   RAM: 16GB dual-channel DDR3-1600  GPU: Gigabyte GTX 760 OC   PSU: Rosewill 750W   CASE: Antec Gaming One   SSD: 120GB PNY CS1311   HDDs: WD Red 3TB + WD 320GB   Monitor: Samsung SyncMaster 2693HM 26" 1920x1200 -or- Steam Link to Vizio M43C1 43" 4K TV  OS: Windows 10 Pro

 

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CPU: 2x Xeon E5645 (12-core)  Model: Dell PowerEdge T610  RAM: 16GB DDR3-1333  PSUs: 2x 570W  SSDs: 8GB Kingston Boot FD + 32GB Sandisk Cache SSD   HDDs: WD Red 4TB + Seagate 2TB + Seagate 320GB   OS: FreeNAS 11+

 

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CPU: Intel i7-3520M   Model: Dell Latitude E6530   RAM: 8GB dual-channel DDR3-1600  GPU: Nvidia NVS 5200M   SSD: 240GB TeamGroup L5   HDD: WD Black 320GB   Monitor: Samsung SyncMaster 2693HM 26" 1920x1200   OS: Windows 10 Pro

Having issues with a Corsair AIO? Possible fix here:

Spoiler

Are you getting weird fan behavior, speed fluctuations, and/or other issues with Link?

Are you running AIDA64, HWinfo, CAM, or HWmonitor? (ASUS suite & other monitoring software often have the same issue.)

Corsair Link has problems with some monitoring software so you may have to change some settings to get them to work smoothly.

-For AIDA64: First make sure you have the newest update installed, then, go to Preferences>Stability and make sure the "Corsair Link sensor support" box is checked and make sure the "Asetek LC sensor support" box is UNchecked.

-For HWinfo: manually disable all monitoring of the AIO sensors/components.

-For others: Disable any monitoring of Corsair AIO sensors.

That should fix the fan issue for some Corsair AIOs (H80i GT/v2, H110i GTX/H115i, H100i GTX and others made by Asetek). The problem is bad coding in Link that fights for AIO control with other programs. You can test if this worked by setting the fan speed in Link to 100%, if it doesn't fluctuate you are set and can change the curve to whatever. If that doesn't work or you're still having other issues then you probably still have a monitoring software interfering with the AIO/Link communications, find what it is and disable it.

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Ketchup is better than mustard.

GUI is better than Command Line Interface.

Dubs are better than subs

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The scientific explanations, which were the bulk of the video, were some of the most bizarre and hard to follow things I've ever heard.

 

I think it's mostly the visuals that went along with them. They were fine and did their job, but they seemed to be way ahead of the explanation Linus was giving at multiple points:

 

1:32 - Heat is flowing into cold air. Visual is swiped away at 1:40, right as Linus is just getting to "heat naturally flows".

1:42 - Linus brings up kinetic energy, no visual, which is a bit of a disconnect, but not a big deal.

1:46 - Linus finished "heat flows to lower temperature areas", actually in sync to the heat flowing from the heatsink into the air. Moment of sanity, OK. But then, Linus proceeds to give an example of 22 C air passing over a heatsink, and how the heat transfers to that air... after the visual showed this happening like 10 seconds ago. You're waiting for the visual to update with Linus's new point that he's segueing into, and it just sits there.

1:58 - The old hot air is pushed away, and now there's new 22 C air shown. Presently, Linus is talking about the heatsink's 50 C air transferring into the cold air, which happened a while ago.

2:07 - Linus says the hot air can be blown out a window. The visual is now gone, but for 5 seconds all we saw was cold air over a heatsink, with the heated air long gone.

 

Looking back on these points, I think the visuals might actually be synced pretty well, but it looks like a minor editing mistake put the clip way ahead of where it should have been so that it'd line up, which created maddening disconnects.

 

These many idiosyncrasies make your mind focus on two clashing things at once, desperately trying to put them together. If things were in sync, the visuals would very much aid the explanation.

 

 

So that's the main stuff. There's other weird things, like the wording on how the delta in air and heatsink temperatures relates to maximum load temperature in any way. With the weird wording given, it sort of makes sense if you think about it for 20 seconds, but the video doesn't exactly give you that time.

 

Then the arm-out-the-window windchill thing. That's given as an example to bring up something that has wind going over it, and yet is cooler than ambient temperatures. Fine, but then Linus says it's because you're made of water... and then we never really go back to the arm thing in any way. He starts talking about the enthalpy of vaporization, but without relating this talk of ice cubes and boiling water back to the real-world-relatable arm thing, I'm left hanging on that seemingly unrelated example, trying to bridge these two things myself, and now thinking my arm is always on the brink of an evaporative phase change.

 

But I guess I'll take these as standard LTT-explainer wording; it's not a big deal, it's a 10 second explanation, YMMV on if makes sense to you or not, and you get the general point anyway. It's just that my mind was so scrambled with the earlier visual stuff that these oddities didn't help.

 

 

Yeah, this probably bothered me a lot more than it should have. But man, what the crap.

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did I miss something or did the vid only show idle results?  I'm a lot more curious about under load and overclocked underload results than idle... 

HP something | 5600X | Corsair  16GB | Zotac ArcticStorm GTX 1080 Ti | Samsung 840 Pro 256GB | OCZ Agility 3 480GB | ADATA SP550 960 GB

Corsair AX860i | CaseLabs SM8 | EK Supremacy | UT60 420 | ST30 360 | ST30 240

Gentle Typhoon's and Noctua's and Noiseblocker eLoop's

 

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1 hour ago, warmmilk said:

did I miss something or did the vid only show idle results?  I'm a lot more curious about under load and overclocked underload results than idle... 

AIDA64 test over time (from idle up to 1 hr)

 

681561e21a.jpg

 

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2 minutes ago, nicklmg said:

AIDA64 test over time (from idle up to 1 hr)

 

681561e21a.jpg

 

oh... haha, oops

 

I totally thought it was idling for that long...  I'd still like to see overclocked results.  there's no point of doing such a crazy cooling setup if you're just gonna run at stock clockspeeds

HP something | 5600X | Corsair  16GB | Zotac ArcticStorm GTX 1080 Ti | Samsung 840 Pro 256GB | OCZ Agility 3 480GB | ADATA SP550 960 GB

Corsair AX860i | CaseLabs SM8 | EK Supremacy | UT60 420 | ST30 360 | ST30 240

Gentle Typhoon's and Noctua's and Noiseblocker eLoop's

 

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I have a few questions/Concerns/Comments:

 

- I have a few old ice/party coolers including one that looks exactly the same design as Linus used which is probably one of the more bulky reqs for this build.

 

- I don't have the PVC piping and I've never actually worked with it before. What should I know about working with it? How you you adhere them together?

 

- What is a good CPU to try this out on? I'm thinking one of the hotter running AMD products like the FX 9590 appear tailor made for this sort of insane cooling solution, but I'd probably just stick with one of my backup prebuilts because I'm too poor to make a dedicated build for this.

 

- Any advice on other products like a brand/model of pump.

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 6/2/2016 at 7:11 PM, Okjoek said:

I have a few questions/Concerns/Comments:

 

- I have a few old ice/party coolers including one that looks exactly the same design as Linus used which is probably one of the more bulky reqs for this build.

 

- I don't have the PVC piping and I've never actually worked with it before. What should I know about working with it? How you you adhere them together?

 

- What is a good CPU to try this out on? I'm thinking one of the hotter running AMD products like the FX 9590 appear tailor made for this sort of insane cooling solution, but I'd probably just stick with one of my backup prebuilts because I'm too poor to make a dedicated build for this.

 

- Any advice on other products like a brand/model of pump.

Hi! Pvc is quite easy to work with. You can cut it with a hacksaw, or a wood saw, or a bandsaw, or a dremel... Basically anything. As far as adhering it: It has its own solvent glue. Should be in the plubmbing section with the pipe itself. But for a build this simple, you don't even need it. Just shove the fittings together hard. They will stay.

 

And on the pump. it would probably be easiest to just pick up a cheap small sump pump and toss it in the cooler. Get one with a 1/2" threaded outlet. and buy a 1/2" hose barb to attach your hose to. This will easily provide the flow rate and the head pressure to run the showerheads and push the water through the CPU loop.

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  • 2 weeks later...

But can it make me an ice cream, banana, and caramel sandwich? And then Nachos, followed by some... wait, what were we talking about? 

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  • 1 year later...

How would you prevent any disgusting bio life from forming inside the look and its components?

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That was great. Not very practical, but great. Science!

 

I hate watching his vids though. One leads me to another, and another, and another. I can't stop.O.o

Best Excuses:

        #1(simple) "Well, I never liked that stupid thing anyway!"

        #2(complex) "Obviously there was a flaw in the material, probably due to the inadvertent introduction of contaminants during the manufacturing process."

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