Wood/Alum PC Case Build

[startrek03]

On 9/12/2020 at 7:56 PM, illerin said:

@startrek03 Yeah, not too happy with the sd slot, thinking about having another go at it to get that slot better. Thinking i will do a small plunge cut to get two vertical lines to make the slot cleaner. 

 

 

Got the alum sheets in and did a test fit with my test side panel to make sure the slot fit correctly.(it did =D ) 
I plan to stain the wood side panel, and paint the wood subpanel thats below the perforated alum black so it matches the foam filter(not shown). Going to either brush finish the alum so it all looks the same, or just paint all the aluminum parts.

 

Plunge cutting ist definitely a good idea. I'd try it on a small test piece, though. Personally, I'd be concerned with the saw blade having a too big diameter. You could still fill and file it to make the slot neater.

Drilling a hole and than filing everything square is also an option. (Does it even have to be square? If not you could even try to use a router, if you have the right equipment...)

Those small slots are really annoying. Ideally you'd probably CNC route them or whatever...

[illerin]

@startrek03 Was going to put my handheld circular saw blade on my miter do reduce the diameter, even then probably cutting just enough to peak thru the wood. That would make the material thin along the same line so filing would be easier. Used an exacto knife for cutting the slot in the first panel. The slot is a bit less then ~1/8" wide so a router wouldn't work, maybe a dremel bit, but i can see that going bad. 

Might see if i can get access to a laser cutter to just make my life easier.

[startrek03]

3 minutes ago, illerin said:

@startrek03 Was going to put my handheld circular saw blade on my miter do reduce the diameter, even then probably cutting just enough to peak thru the wood. That would make the material thin along the same line so filing would be easier. Used an exacto knife for cutting the slot in the first panel. The slot is a bit less then ~1/8" wide so a router wouldn't work, maybe a dremel bit, but i can see that going bad. 

Might see if i can get access to a laser cutter to just make my life easier.

There are special and small router bits out there, but I totally understand, if you want to do it with the you already have available and are comfortable with. Good luck!

[burh4n]

On 8/30/2020 at 10:17 AM, illerin said:

@burh4n Always happy to find ways to improve the design, appreciate your guys help. Only have standard solidworks so dont have the simulation plugin for it. I've linked the soldiworks files along with a .step file as well. 

 

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/sks99m7071wos2b/AABasQOoCgI8WMppd-cs9EE3a?dl=0

So I know I went a bit quiet, but things got busy and it took me some time to get back to this. The model needed some cleaning up and in the interest of time, I just removed the PSU, GPU, and some (simulation) problematic parts. I ran the simulation for both 120mm as intake and exhaust. The lid I modeled as solid (no perforations) to simplify things and show the fully enclosed view. 
 

For the 120mm I already had the Noctua NF-F12-PWM fan curve (requested from Noctua), for the others I just entered a few points from the spec sheet (meaning they're not likely accurate). No thermal analysis here, only flow (sorry didn't have the time). 
 

From the analysis, I think either configuration is viable. Although if using the 120mm fan for intake, I'd personally add some perforations on the right side of the cabinet for air to escape, since that side builds up a lot of pressure (might be okay with lid perforations). 
 

Here are a couple screenshots and you can snag some animations here. All media is showing the relative pressures using the color scale, and streamlines are showing fluid velocity. Again, don't take this as 100% accurate, but hopefully it helps you with your design process. 

120mm fan as exhaust


120mm fan as intake

[illerin]

@startrek03 Never knew there was such small bits for a larger shank! But i guess it does make sense to have smaller bits like those.

 

@burh4n Those are awesome! thanks for running the simulations. For the modifications for testing, i assume the center divider was brought down to completely close off each side. For the back panel on the right side, where the pci slots left open for the test or only the perforations on the bottom?

[burh4n]

11 hours ago, illerin said:

Those are awesome! thanks for running the simulations.

You're welcome, again sorry it took so long to get back to you.

11 hours ago, illerin said:

center divider was brought down to completely close off each side

Actually I made no changes to the center divider.

11 hours ago, illerin said:

For the back panel on the right side, where the pci slots left open for the test or only the perforations on the bottom?

I kept the PCI slots closed off as tho the GPU was installed, and also sealed off the perforations underneath. I tried to leave the perforations open, but it was difficult to set them up as an opening since they overlap with the mobo. I'm not sure those perforations will do much tho since most of their area is located under the mobo, so you might be able to skip those if you haven't already drilled them out.

 

I'd say that the perforated cover will make the biggest difference to the overall dynamics of the system. Again, if time allows, I could attempt to re-run the simulation with the perforated cover (and foam filter?), but that might take quite a bit of time to setup and run, so don't wait on me if you're aiming to move forward with your build. Somewhat relatedly, I'm not sure if it will cause longer rebuild times, but check out the Fill Pattern feature for adding perforations, it's quite handy (although I do appreciate your linear pattern and mirror method).

Finally, I'm curious about the foam filter you mentioned, as without knowing anything about the material (especially porosity and pressure drop), my instinct is to say don't use a foam filter...Do you have the specs of the material (porosity, depth, pressure drop, material, etc)? The biggest concern is that it would add a lot of resistance to your airflow (large dP). Perhaps you could be convinced to use a mesh screen instead? I certainly understand the desire for dust control (which will be different based on how you setup the fans), but a foam filter could present a problem with airflow. 

[illerin]

9 hours ago, burh4n said:

You're welcome, again sorry it took so long to get back to you.

Your perfectly fine, still waiting for the new cpu's to be released anyways. 

9 hours ago, burh4n said:

Actually I made no changes to the center divider.

Ah, that would be why the positive pressure was so much higher then the negative between the two studies. I was planning on waiting till i have the parts to cut the opening in the back plate, so i can cut the holes shifted if they would get better airflow somewhere else. Or just leave them out if they dont fit. So like you said it really does come down to the perforated panel. The subpanel to it that i plan to do the cutouts in is going to be just wood, so i could make a few different cutout configurations to see what works best. 

 

Feature fill might have been a little easier, I did just have a perforated looking material that i applied to the part before but put the holes in thinking that would help with your simulation. For the foam filter i couldn't find a spec sheet for it, i just got a window unit filter(Frost King sku F1524), i was thinking a mesh screen would end up being more restrictive then a foam filter. I do know that the perforated plate block about 50% of the area, so that would be a reduction in air flow.

[illerin]

Thats a bit cleaner for the Hub

[startrek03]

On 9/17/2020 at 2:49 AM, illerin said:

Thats a bit cleaner for the Hub

Honestly, this looks way better! How did you do it?

[illerin]

On 9/18/2020 at 6:08 PM, startrek03 said:

Honestly, this looks way better! How did you do it?

Got it laser cut =D 

[startrek03]

2 hours ago, illerin said:

Got it laser cut =D 

Oh, yeah... That's obviously the best solution... 

[PriitM]

laser cut looks way better

 

I have some el-cheapo range hood carbon "filter" material. No restriction to air flow, and the "carbon" part does absolutely nothing at all to capture small particulates. But I think it is designed to capture relatively massive cooking oil vapour particles. Im thinking on using several layers of this cheap (its like 3-4 dollars for 1.5x1.5 feet/500x500mm) sheet. Layering helps me figure out if its worth it as an idea and gives some design freedom. 2-3 layers of this stuff should be a labyrinth enough to capture majority of the dust, but not so much it will affect airflow. 

 

Proper foam air filters wont restrict airflow until clogged full. By which time, its swapped out. But the foam filters are used in rather high vacuum environments: on the intakes of carburetted motors. So, on relative low vacuum environment of a PC case...foam may not work well. 

 

Using mesh screens has no restriction to airflow, but getting the right mesh is important. Too tight of a mesh will restrict airflow too, too loose wont capture dust. The big advantage of mesh is that its pretty much indefinite... if you clean every 2-3 months.   

[illerin]

Making the final side pieces now. Built a form to hold the side pieces to ensure they are the correct width as the glue dries.

Also have been thinking about airflow after @burh4n analysis and comments, and i think I'm going to add some pass thru holes for venting. I originally plan to flush mount the case to the bottom of my desk, but now thinking i will leave a 1/4" gap and have holes in the panel so the air can pass thru the case.

[startrek03]

I have to say it again: Your work looks really good. It seems like you have done a really precise job.

[illerin]

@startrek03 Making those test parts really helped refine the final parts, though after i bent them i found out i drilled the vent holes on the wrong side! So I guess i have the option for vent/intake from either side of the case now. 

 

Have the top and bottom panels and the perforated panel cut out. Going to wait till i  have the computer hardware till i cut the top panel intake holes so they will line up with the fans. This is just a 1/8" wood panel so if i need to change the vent holes due to hardware change or change in air flow configuration its can be done cheaply. Still got a lot of work to be done to finish it.

 

 

 

 

[illerin]

Most aluminum I've ever cut, still a lot of sanding to do. Turning out well so far! =D

[startrek03]

1 minute ago, illerin said:

Most aluminum I've ever cut, still a lot of sanding to do. Turning out well so far! =D

You could paint the holes below the perforated sheet metal black, so that the holes look a bit more even in color.

[illerin]

43 minutes ago, startrek03 said:

You could paint the holes below the perforated sheet metal black, so that the holes look a bit more even in color.

Thats the plan, also planned to stain the wood. Not Sure if i wont to do a brushed finished on the metal parts or paint them yet though. I do like the raw alum look, but the rest of my desk is mostly stained wood, black pipes and black peripherals. 

[mao91]

On 9/16/2020 at 7:49 PM, illerin said:

Thats a bit cleaner for the Hub

Forgive me, but what are those two round pieces of metal for? Please tell me they're bridge points for turning on your PC with an external "key" of some sort?

 

[illerin]

14 minutes ago, B.Toast said:

Forgive me, but what are those two round pieces of metal for? Please tell me they're bridge points for turning on your PC with an external "key" of some sort?

 

That would be an interesting way to do it, i always did like how the PS3 had that switch, but they are just two push buttons(cut alum rod and dremeled a slot for the push button switch to fit into, hot glue to hold in place) for power and reset for the computer. That way i dont have to reach under my desk to turn it on. I will have a power button on the case itself as well in case i do wont to turn it on from there.

[Mr.Moustache]

@illerin Could you please tell me what program you have used for this 

 

 

Thanks!

[illerin]

10 hours ago, Mr.Moustache said:

@illerin Could you please tell me what program you have used for this 

 

 

Thanks!

I use Solidworks for most of my modeling. But if your looking for a free software you can use Fusion 360(for a year i think?) which will work fine for a model like this. 

 

 

General update on the project.

Been busy the past week weeks so only done minor work(lots of sanding) on the case.

[Mr.Moustache]

@illerin thanks! Im going to try fusion 360!

[illerin]

Updated:

Got the power button done, stained and clear coated the wood, painted the alum and added the case mounting hardware.

 

[startrek03]

29 minutes ago, illerin said:

Updated:

Got the power button done, stained and clear coated the wood, painted the alum and added the case mounting hardware.

 

In comparison to the other wooden box below your table, it's definitely a visual improvement.

 

Edit: I'd be interested to see the inside.