staman96

would be really nice if they could explain what issue, if they found one by sending it back.
Else if you did mess with the CPU, that could be by messing with it.

What was your voltage at before you lowered it?

It's very unlikely that you got bad CPU.
How do you know that your CPU is to blame now?
If you played with voltages trying to be an OC yeah you burnt the CPU.
But motherboard by the default settings can't do that out of the box.
And don't think it's PSU either since that is good PSU.

Some times if a mess around too hard, my board will not make it passed the orange light. VGA. I could clear cmos and pull the battery and let it sit, only to come back to it later and it acts the same. I read some guy was flashing his bios when that happened and still bricked.. My fix? My trusty GTX 580. Drop that mofo in and hit go. It has happened four times now I think. My fault though.. pushing mems very hard. Maybe try booting with a non uefi gpu?

Credit to: @LukeSavenije
 
The following list is based on facts, ranked on power delivery and known problems. The list will include boards that support CPU overclocking available at retail from different brands.
 
There are still differences in performance among boards of the same tier. As a result, those that barely made it into that tier will be in orange while those that are better than others in the same tier are in blue. Unless specified, boards sharing the same name and chipset in different form factors are ranked the same.
 
For advanced users: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1Smj5dh97n32wJqm5dkdDcQt8ID7vH52-lKzaaXUUQx8/edit?usp=sharing
 
AMD
 
All current draw figures are based on Prime95 small FFT with AVX unless otherwise specified, in other words the worst case scenario.
 
Only often recommended sku of CPUs in the same generation and core/thread count configuration is named, others share the same rating.
 
Zen scales down frequency and voltage according to EDC (current limit) and TDC (thermal limit) settings of the motherboard so in theory you won’t cook the VRM of any board at stock, you just lose frequency.
 
For tier A and above, due to lack of feasible CPUs that allow testing of the boards at higher current ratings, there are some level on guessing in terms of how much more power the VRM can take.
 
AM4 (Athlon, Ryzen 3, Ryzen 5, Ryzen 7, Ryzen 9)
 
B550 and X570S Speculation: If you cant find the board above, then it should be here. If it's already up there, then ignore what it's placed here
 
TR4 (Ryzen Threadripper 1xxx and 2xxx) X399
 
sTRX4 (Ryzen Threadripper 3xxx) TRX40 (largely guessing since there's little data)
 
Sources:
 
Legacy list thread: Those looking to dive into Intel's outdated process node and recycled (for many times) architecture please refer to the old list
 

Did you get the Pro or non Pro? I think the non Pro in the twin pack are a good deal, because the rubber corners should make a big different at low rpms, right?

I don't know what you're smoking but 1) these are the best fans I've ever seen and 2) how the hell is this ripping off Noctua? Please explain that.
 
I'm glad Corsair decided to work with Sunon on these fans, they have long had experience with maglev bearings. I replaced 3 Noctua NF-F12 IPPC PWM fans on my 360 rad with these and I couldn't be happier. I've never been satisfied with any fan, and I've been through every decent quality one. GTs, Venturis, FP120s, eLoops, Vardars, NF-F12s etc. I ended up with Noctua because they had the least amount of noise issues, good low-speed performance and a nice sound signature. And that warranty service. Too bad even the Noctuas had some ticking issues.
 
Now that I have these ML120s, I'm not going back. These fans have ZERO bearing noise and no motor noise at low speeds. Performance wise they're as good as any fan I've ever had - just quieter. Plus, they have by far the best sound signature I've ever heard. Bitching about these fans being loud at 2k+ rpm is just special kind of stupid. Please do show me a fan that isn't loud at high speeds. 
 
I ended up setting the upper rpm limit at about 1300rpm, after that the noise of air ripping through a rad starts to get too much for me. If you want a fan that combines no bearing noise at all, no ticking, great rad/heatsink performance, incredible MTBF, 5 year warranty and probably the best noise-to-performance ratio available, these are your fans. Pro tip: get the dual pack and suddenly they're pretty cheap. I bought dual packs for 24€ each which IMO is dirt cheap for fans like these.
 
Meanwhile, Noctua are sitting on their asses releasing nothing new. I'm glad SOMEONE came up with this. I'm Noctua fanboy but I'm done paying a premium for fans that are no longer that special.
 
FYI; you MUST use pwm control with these fans. With voltage control the maglev bearing won't work properly which will cause noise issues

@Viper101, grab an R5 1600 and a B350 motherboard.  Comes with a decent cooler, when overclocked it will be close enough in single-thread performance to an i5, but you'll have 12 processing threads.
 
I bought a 1600X myself because at least at first I can't be bothered to overclock the thing, plus I had already bought a Cryorig H7 so I didn't need the stock cooler.  Coming from a Phenom II 6-core, even though it's ancient I can tell that 4 threads is not enough for me.
AM4 is already pretty future-proof, since AMD has committed that their next few generations of CPU's will be on the same platform.  When revised Zen comes out, if I feel inclined to upgrade my main system, I will probably end up putting the 1600X into my server.

Delta AFB1212SH : LINK.
Cheap and powerful.
Specs : LINK.
I use them on my testing rig, can be noisy at 12V, but PWM control should keep it quiet (btw. ~7V to me is sweet spot for it).

I 've never used none of the new cpus, but from what i ve seen from reviews and pricing right now the r5 1600 seems to be the choice because it has the most value of all....if you dont plan to change cpu in the next 5+ years you can go with the r7 1700  for a more "futureproof" solution....plus you get a free good cooler for free with either of them...
 
 
sorry for my english

Personally, I would just recommend setting of a custom fan curvature using that of a MSI Afterburner is or your motherboards BIOS :3 As such is cheaper than purchasing and installing an entirely new cpu cooler.    

ANTEC SILENT PC BUNDLE GIVEAWAY
 
Antec has been kind enough to offer you guys, the awesome Linus Tech Tips community, the exclusive chance to win a bundle of their awesome, silent PC parts!
 
The winner will receive:

1100 V2 Computer Case - http://store.antec.com/gaming-series/eleven-hundred-v2.html
EDG750 PSU - http://store.antec.com/edge-series/edg750.html
True Quiet Fans - http://store.antec.com/truequiet-series/
Kuhler 1250 - http://store.antec.com/liquid-cooling/kuhler-h2o-1250.html
Accent lighting kit (winner chooses the color) - http://ow.ly/CASzQ
Pulse headset (winner chooses the color) - http://www.antecmobileproducts.com/products/#headphones
 
 
So how do you enter? Just comment below in this thread and let us know what your favorite item in this bundle is and why. One comment (entry) per person.

This is a world-wide giveaway and will run from November 3, 2014 until November 10, 2014 at 4pm PST. The winner will be drawn using a random number generator and will be contacted by me through the forum. If you receive a message anywhere other than the forum claiming that you are the winner (through YouTube, Facebook, or Twitter) please IGNORE that message as it is NOT from us.

Thanks in advance for your comments, and thanks to Antec for sponsoring this giveaway!
 
 
WINNER UPDATE
The winner of this giveaway is Sneddon!
 
Since we did not receive a response from the original winner, we have been forced to redraw. The new winner is ryan9298b2! I have contacted them by PM - they have 3 days to respond.

You can just use the one 8+6 pin cable, that's why it is made the way it is. To only have to use one cable.
 
@staman96

Faulty temp sensor...

Eh, anything like WD-40 would do.

Lol don't wash your fans ha, just blow them to get rid of the dust.

MSI.com -  ''B85M-E45 Supports 4th Gen Intel® Core™''

you can go with this (R7 250X) GPU....it's way faster and only 5 pounds more....

Go for it. 
 
Yeah I didn't know about much about Sapphire Warranty until recently when I was browsing OCN and found this thread. 
 
I liked Sapphire, but now I'm not too sure. As long as they put on quality TIM properly at factory I really wouldn't care, but rarely happens. 

I am not entirely sure, but i am going to try.
My guess is that it means the amount of steps in the fans speed, meaning that when it is given a certain amount of voltage it will try to run at one of X amount of speeds.
It turns out i am close(ish)
CTRL+C
Fan Divisor    Minimum RPM    Maximum RPM
-----------    -----------    -----------
1        5314        1350000
2        2657         675000        default on most chips
4        1328         337500
8         664         168750
16         332         84375        not supported on most chips
32         166         42187        ""
64         83         21093        ""
128         41         10546        ""
CTRL+V
http://lm-sensors.org/svn/lm-sensors/trunk/doc/fan-divisors <<<<Source

It divides the frequency of the tachometer to give an accurate rpm reading.
For example, the tachometer will send 32000 pulses per minute when the fan is running at 1000rpm, so the divisor needs to be 32. If it is set at 16, it would say the fan is running at 2000rpm.
Usually it auto-selects the range, but if you think the fan is going at a different speed than what it is reporting, try changing the divisor

This is the 280, but the performance should be similar enough if not better for 280x 

ASUS R9 280X have terrible artifacting problems for some reason, I would stay away from it. 
 
Go with XFX, Gigabyte or MSI.  Even though Sapphire have great products, their warranty will not allow you to replace the original TIM, no matter how dried up it comes from the factory.  

I understand your point, since it's not the top edition and the VRAM is at 6000Mhz it's also probably at 1.5V, then you might have the chance of getting a fully functional card.
 
But knowing what i know now ! It is a risk that i wouldn't take...
 
You have to see that in my situation, i am a very unsatisfied customer along with many others that got the same problem, so i am obviously biased and i won't probably buy anything form ASUS again, even though they are well known and well established on the market...

Looks OK, no frills 80+ Bronze and probably pretty reliable I think XFX use good OEMs.
 
I'd just double check the RMA procedure from wherever you're buying it first, maybe a different unit has some kind of bonus like a long return to base warranty.