darkknight302

I'm sure that thing's as real at a $3 bill.

I had this psu for 3 weeks and it powered my 13900K and 4090 with ease. I just recently swapped it out for the platinum MEG version. You will be fine with this 

This is my current psu. You don't need more than 1K unless you just have money to burn.
https://www.microcenter.com/product/659745/MEG_Ai1000P_PCIE5_1000_Watt_80_Plus_Platinum_ATX_Fully_Modular_Power_Supply
 
This is my former psu that was fine but I rather have the sleeve cables over the plastic ones so I swapped them out. I had this for 3 weeks and it ran my system fine.
https://www.microcenter.com/product/653708/MPG_A1000G_PCIE5_1000_Watt_80_Plus_Gold_ATX_Fully_Modular_Power_Supply

The real question is would you rather spend a bunch of money on a new GPU or spend a little extra on a PSU to make sure it will last a while longer.

Thermaltake also has the GF3 alongside msi.
https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Toughpower-Controlled-Industrial-PS-TPD-1550FNFATU-1/dp/B0BF3S8WDT?th=1
https://www.newegg.com/thermaltake-toughpower-gf3-series-1650-w/p/N82E16817153434

You can get 1650 watt thermaltake gf3 psu right now on Amazon for 299.
 
Has two of the new 600 watt atx 3.0 cables 
 
https://www.thermaltakeusa.com/toughpower-gf3-1650w-gold-tt-premium-edition.html?___store=us
 

CAS Latency is measured in clock cycles, so CL30 by itself means absolutely nothing. CL30 at 6000MT/s will end up with the same theoretical latency as say CL34 at 6800Mt/s or CL28 at 5600MT/s (though practically the 6800MT/s kit will have the lowest actual latency for reasons I'll get to later). 
 
With DDR5 in particular, primary timings only matter if you plan on doing RAM overclocking. If you aren't, they can be pretty much ignored as they have such a minimal impact on actual RAM performance. What matters with DDR5 is the actual frequency, with the only timings that have a noticeable impact on performance being the sub timings (not the ones advertised). 
 
That said, there's a problem with your plan. The sticks you're planning swapping to are 1Rx16 organized (it's the only way 8GB DDR5 can be made), which in general has 60% the memory bandwidth as the 1Rx8 organized stick you're currently using. Having 2 sticks with dual channel does double the memory bandwidth available, but the frequency and timing disadvantage of that new kit would mean that performance practically speaking will be near identical. This just isn't worth the time or effort to do. If you want to do a RAM upgrade, buy a second stick and upgrade to 32GB, that way you get a proper dual channel setup with proper 1Rx8 DIMMs which should be the best overall performance. 

You'll need a riser cable, a case that will support vertical mount gpus and possibly a bracket if one didn't come with your case.
What case?

Power Supply brand & model, not the GPU

Ive been daily driving W11 for a while and I like it

I had the G900, G903 which was ok but I had to rma it due to the left click issue. The rma worked great, and later I decided to get the G502 lightspeed because I loved my old G502 but cannot go back to wired again.

Sorry to pop your bubble, but I think you're really underestimating how much money it'd actually cost you and how little you stand to make.
You have about 7k people that could potentioally visit your LAN center, about 70% of which aren't gonna be interested from the get go, since you'll only have older games (on very old machines), you reduce that even further - and quite significantly at that. So at the end of the day it'll be you and a few friends and at that point you're better off hosting LAN parties in your basement again.

I currently have the Lian Li O11 dynamic xl, but I did have the 680X for a couple of weeks. When I did I have the 680X, My original idea was to mount the 240mm radiator up front. That didn't work unless I was willing to move the radiator down a bit as it block the top front fan. I just gave up and got a 280mm and mounted it on top. I ran with 3 intake fans front, 2 intake fans on the bottom. The 280mm fans and the back fan were all out. This method did keep my 2080ti FTW3 cool at 29C and the cpu were at 37-42C idle. 


I had to switch to the O11 because the 680X just barely fir the 2080ti ftw3 as I was planning to get the evga power link. I also swapped out the 2080ti ftw3 for the 2080ti XC2 to save $100, which was used to buy more fans for the O11.