LauRoman

Try this  https://mashtips.com/edit-grub-with-grub-customizer/

Not 100% sure, but i think it may have been related to the memory controller on the cpu, because of the limited tests i did then, it never crashed during short-ish cpu intensive tasks, only with a high number of browser tabs or a surveilance software i was using at the time that was memoey intensive.
 
I ended up swapping it with a socket and motherboard compatible xeon-w and it has not crashed since, but the cpu did crash when used in the system the xeon came from.
 
Your problem may be similar to mine but it also may not. Before jumping to conclusions, i would advise removing any other pci devices from your machine other than the gpu since that ryzen has no igpu. That does include m.2 or u.2 drives and things like mini pcie or m.2 wifi cards not just regular pci devices and test the system with each ram stick in each dimm slot. Might also want to turn off any auto OC setting like DOCP or any kind of cpu boost. Because i more recently had crashes in a skylake system and after a lot of trial and error, it was because of a cheap pci-usb3 controller, even though a lot of the symptimps were similar to the faulty i5.

You should be fine. Unless you want to boot an OS from that drive and also use its full capacity. If that is the case you may need to change your bios boot mode to disable csm.
I hope you are talking about an internal drive, because if it is an external one you have to do almost nothing.

LGA 2000 isnt a fantastical number. LGA 2011 is a thing.

if you have a 2080ti, why isnt that powering the 4K display?

You should see if you connected all the power connectors properly (cpu and 24 pin) and ram. Check that the cmos pins are not shorted (see the manual). Maybe disconnect the power button and restart button connector and use a screwdriver or something to short the power button pins (usually lableled something similar to pw sw) to start the machine. That last one once happened to me and it took me a day to pinpoint the culprit, because it was something i never check.

Maybe you could get 50-60$ for a combo of it if it also had a quad core cpu and decent ammount of memory that fit it, otherwise it's more trouble than it's worth.

It depends on the software you use (Firefox's cache used to needlessly hammer ssds and it was bad for budget drives), size (smaller drives will have "empty" cells overwritten more often), type of flash and how the firmware manages it (some drives do not fill all memory cells completely until they reach a certain threshold of used capacity, so they may wear them less and perform better until the drive starts to fill up).
 
In the budget area kingston is probably a better option but i have had issues for a decade with their hardware, so i usually push for a higher budget if possible and recommend them as a last resort if budget crucial is not available and/or more expensive.
 
People get all fired up about smr hdds, but this has been happening for a while in the industry. I had a kinston v300 or sv300 (forgot the name) and a friend had the same model name but two years newer. He had more wear on his even though he used it around two hours a day and some days he wouldn't even turn the machine on and mine was on almost 24/7 with the browser upwards of 50 tabs. It was a model they were known to have changed the internals for. I also had a hyper x (it was supposed to be a higher tier model of theirs) in a laptop that was mostly sleeping or was off for more then a week at a time and that had more wear on it than the older v or sv i had.

A bit cheaper alternative to Seasonic S12III (which is fine) with 3y warranty tho - https://www.emag.ro/sursa-segotep-500w-80-plus-gold-atx-2-31-pfc-activ-gp600g/pd/DNVDZMBBM/

If the 590 is supposed to be an even hotter update of the 580, i would go for the 1660.

For the most part that pair should operate at 16, given what I've seen. There doesn't seem to be a need for explicitly support at a given timing for that compatibility