Vectraat

Yeah, someone else recommended that I try to find my Printers IP so I'll go do that now. I don't know if I can find it via the printer itself or if I need to look through the software on the computer. 

The WiFi extender isn't that complex. I just pressed the routers WPS button and the extenders "WiFi button" to get them on the same network. The WiFi printer does see my routers username since adding the WiFi extender and since my desktop PC is directly wired to the router I don't understand why I can't connect to the printer. 

Edit: I actually got it to work by just going into "Printers & scanners" > Add a printer or scanner and it detected the printer. Strange that I had to do this on my desktop PC but I never needed to do this on either of my laptops and they are all running Windows 10. I did recently update the printers firmware though so maybe this had some kind of impact. 

Were you able to connect the printer to your Wifi network? If it's on your wifi network, then the desktop should be able to pick it up; it could depend on how you set up the Wifi extender, though. See if you can find the IP address of your printer in the printer's network settings, and then type that into your desktop after you click "My printer isn't listed" in your printer finding settings.
 

My bad, apparently the et-2850 doesn't have Ethernet.
 
If you only see 1 network name that you connect to on all your devices, then you most likely have a 'mixed' network where both the 2.4GHz network and the 5GHz network are named the same thing, but I suppose it's not worth messing with in this case. I also looked up your Telus router, and it is Wifi 5 / 802.11ac, so you don't have to worry about the network password encryption thing.
 
Basically just treat the powerline adapters as one long Ethernet cable, but with extra steps. Most people don't have a switch, so that's why they would say to plug it into your router, but you can just plug it into your switch, which is connected to your router. Even though you don't have an Ethernet port on your printer, you can still use a powerline Wifi extender if you want, instead of a straight Wifi extender. You just plug the one end that doesn't have Wifi into your switch, and plug the other one into an empty wall socket near your printer, and then set it up as you would a normal Wifi network (you could just copy/paste the name and password of your current network, or make it different). I'm suggesting this instead of a normal Wifi extender because having a wired connection between your extender and your router is usually more reliable, especially on older Wifi standards.
 
You may find a better deal than this, but this is a sensible option I found after a quick look:
https://www.amazon.ca/TP-Link-Powerline-Extender-TL-WPA7517-KIT/dp/B08YFLJCL3/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1V7YNBV46FCYI&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.hSp7m6t6U47IMCd31GpeyqlQGcE-KGOfFZCA7K2vizDAXpypcaiJFrmlmHFhIvyzU93QPdyTkpA-wiOWfS46wDLDxQtccBKTB4mhyMvwxKl6kbVJ71u7F85AUvhH7lQi05cn3WkmfayWj7zhvKwT1a18NxTwzAmaTIqhozeHePl3kRegZCKVH5g6FgLocdfUOzO1KsqZxNJtg1OlU4-oJxriGHC2o5BDKBF0bKLRIvjHYwnaQMfedeklqyCwZfuEKv3faUgZGlcRjstyG40aqL4Osim6aguRSDLWGk10w30.8MzgkTVO2SpfhN5aqMQXeIlbqAH6_Uv-ZOXIrJx6NJs&dib_tag=se&keywords=powerline%2Bwifi&qid=1711598008&sprefix=powerline%2Bwifi%2Caps%2C94&sr=8-3&th=1
 
P.S. If you do find a better deal on a regular Wifi extender, or just want to use one for whatever reason, it'll probably still be fine.

I stated acid brushes, because that's what I use to clean, and the bristles are long and can easily wick away dust, and is more precise - makeup brushes should be fine too. For purely removing dry dust, using a brush should be enough - anything that's caked on(maybe from thermal pad grease) will require isopropyl alcohol or some other solvent. Using a brush after applying IPA allows you to scrub at surfaces, and get more of it to dissolve into it - sometimes if I need more scrubbing power, I'll cut the bristles down to make them more stiff, and rub it across and into surfaces.
 
Once you break up the dust though, using a canned of compressed gas should be enough to remove it from the respective surfaces.
 
For the microfiber towel, I just apply the IPA directly to the towel, and wipe down surfaces, and for larger surfaces, is more effective than using cotton swabs. Cotton swabs can be cumbersome to use, and you could also start moving around the dirt, instead of removing it - that's what my experience has been at least. 
 
The toothbrush will potentially have limited use cleaning the fan blades due to the bristles being too short to reach down across the whole surface of the blades.
 
The reality is though that cleaning a full graphics card requires different methods to be used - one isn't enough.

You also have the option of buying a crimping tool and new ends and cutting the existing cables to length. These things are generally sold at hardware stores as well.  

Yes. Double-check to make sure that cable follows the T568A or T568B standard at both ends (99.99% chance it does).
 

 
If it's a standard cable, any other standard cable up to 300 feet long will work. (They probably just gave you an off-the-rack size they stock on the truck.)

Id suggest you wait, there are a lot of people having issues with this update today and i heard Microsoft will provide and "updated" update that should work

The vents you chose seem good. I'll give you my suggestion and then you can decide what you want to do. 
Use more vents than you think you'll need.  Put them strategically around the box to allow for the best choice of fans and airflow, but especially near the intake and exhaust of the projector.  Push fresh air onto the intake. If you're going to have 2 fans like in your picture, make sure they aren't creating a problem by pushing the hot air the wrong way. I suggest that you take advantage of the vents and try multiple configs to see what gives the best cooling. 

Don't care about any noise, I did not install any sound dampening and probably won't be. The box will be placed outside (likely being rained on in some capacity). And there will be speakers nearby playing audio which will likely drown out any sound the fans might be making if that's what you're asking. 

Projector size: 10" long x 1ft wide.
Box size: 2ft 2" wide x 1ft 9" long. (yeah, the box is a fair bit bigger than the projector because there's going to be a lot of cords in there, a power strip, media player and who knows what else, and I wanted to allow for some air circulation. 

Has a bit more vertical height

Its the same as 1280x720 but instead of running a 16:9 format, it's 16:10.

Yes, 650W should be fine for an RTX 3060 Ti.

the other msi was quite poor (according to rtings) the dell you posted would be a better buy. I can't comment on BRG issue 

There's not, but what I usually do is either strike the text out with editor or just say that text was removed.
I'm in a frame of mind where I give a company a chance to prove to me that they make things right. Sometimes I'm proved wrong by the internet, sometimes it works out in my favor. Even if they view the revving to be normal behavior, the buzzing likely isn't and is a dying fan. If you're wanting to get it replaced with a new one, I'd get in chat with them, ask to talk to a manager or similar and when you talk to the manager just be honest. Your GPU needs RMA, but you don't feel comfortable with sending it in for RMA while they're still dealing with cyber attack issues and that you're worried it'd get lost. See if they would let you hold onto it for a little while longer while things get sorted out. If they will, document everything. Grab a video of the GPU now doing what it's been doing to cause an RMA. Get a new video before you package it showing the same issues and the card not developing new issues, if you can get the S/N in that video. Grab a picture of the S/N. Send it in to them with tracking information, and get pictures of the tracking saying it's been received by them. Then get pictures and screen caps of any RMA updates on their page in case pages go back down. 
If pages go back down, you can then pull out the pictures of them saying "RMA approved" and that "xxxxxx" was the S/N of your GPU. Makes tracking easier for them if they go through something like this.
IMHO this is stuff that anyone doing an RMA on anything, especially something that's GPU expensive, should be doing anyways. 

So I'm wanting to use a static IP for my NAS because every time I reboot the NAS I need to reconfigure certain things. I don't know shit about networking and my ISP won't help me so I have the following questions to ask...

1.) If I'm looking to get a static IP via my router, It's called "DHCP Reservation" ? I can't seem to see anything else that would be applicable unless you have some suggestions. 
 
2.) How do I determine the range of IP's I can choose from? 

3.) If I set a DHCP Reservation from my router for my NAS, I assume every single thing I run from the NAS will be using that IP? For example, Plex, Kodi and even the Desktop share folder pointing to my NAS will connect to that IP? 

Thanks

Thats the one. You can either configure your NAS with a static IP by entering all the information manually, or allow your router to assign it a static IP like you suggested which is my preferred method. So if you want your router to do it, then yes DHCP Reservation is the one you want. 
 
Your router will be configured with a private /8 or /16 IP address. But essentially you can use any available IP address in the "network" 
If your routers IP is 192.168.1.1, then you can use any of the 255 IP addresses in that 192.168.1.x range. That is you can use 192.168.1.2 > 192.168.1.254.
(192.168.1.0 is reserved for network, and 192.168.1.255 is reserved for broadcast so you cant use those)
 
Just open Command Prompt and do a ping to the IP address you want to use first, to make sure its not in use on your network (or your router might show you the current connected devices)
Correct. Your NAS will use Docker or something similar to deploy the apps, which will map the ports on the "virtual switch" on your NAS, to your main IP address.
So you will just use the single IP address. 

Yes, updates (due to the 7T being an older phone) was something I was a little concerned about, but I don't know how much I even care. I'm still using a OnePlus 3T (It's been 4 years and 4 months). I'm sure this isn't advisable but I did stop updating the phone around a year and a half ago because I noticed that the phone was slowing down a little bit after updates. So I suppose I don't really care all that much about updates. Maybe I should, but I just don't.

I really don't even do anything that intensive with my phones. I don't play games, I don't take a lot of photos or video (having said that, I wouldn't want the photos/video to be looking ass). I do fairly basic shit, hence why I'm not looking to buy a flagship because it would be a waste of $. However, when I'm doing basic things such as opening e-mail, playing music, scrolling through web pages and social media, using BT and a bit of Google Maps when driving...... if the phone lags doing that kinda shit, It's going to piss me off. A lot of the flagship phones I've used have basically become borderline useless after a year to a year and a half from either extremely terrible slow-down or 20 minutes of screen on time before It's dead. This OnePlus 3T has been a champ in terms of performance-over-time even with updates slowing it down. 

1.) Dumb question, but do you always need to change the boot order in your BIOS or within Windows to the USB flash drive or can you just plug the flash drive in and restart? I could have sworn this actually worked for me once.

2.) There seems to be different steps to install Windows if you're on UEFI or Legacy.
 
a.) Legacy involves setting the boot order to your USB flash drive within the BIOS?
 
b.) UEFI involves setting the boot order within Windows 10
Settings --> Update & Security --> Recovery --> Restart Now

Then: Troubleshoot --> Advanced Options --> UEFI Firmware Settings --> Restart --> Set boot order to start from the USB media.
 
Source: https://www.windowscentral.com/how-do-clean-installation-windows-10
 
3.) How do I know for sure if using UEFI/GPT or Legacy/MBR? I can set my boot to Ultrafast, so I assume UEFI/GPT?

4.) With the Media Creation Tool I guess if you download Windows 10, you can use it to select Windows 10 Pro with it? 
 
5.) Does MS ever make changes to the media creation tool? Like if I were to put it on a USB flash drive today and I only need to use it like a year or two later am I fine to use it or am I going to want to put a newer version on my flash drive? 

6.) Does anyone here use Rufus on a USB? I think I had to use it once because the MS Media Creation tool wasn't working and Rufus downloads an ISO to create a bootable USB flash media from?
 

If you currently have Windows installed, you'll likely have to either change boot settings in your BIOS, or go to the recovery menu and tell Windows to boot to the flash drive instead.
 
With UEFI, Windows will change some boot settings for you when doing the install. With legacy, it won't. The boot devices will also be different between the two. Legacy points to the drive (generally), and UEFI points to Windows Boot Manager.
 
If your PC is from the past 10+ years, it's probably UEFI.
 
Windows 10 packages all versions in the same installer. You select during installation.
 
They update the copy of Windows that you get, but that's about it.
 
I use Rufus all the time for both Windows and Linux drives. Works great.

If your BIOS has an interface that you can use your mouse in and doesn't look straight out of the 90's, then yes, you've got UEFI.
 
You can do it in your BIOS (UEFI), however doing it through Windows will probably be easier.
 
You can leave everything default on Rufus, just set the proper drive and source ISO.
 
I have copies of almost every Windows 10 version stored on a HDD (as well as Windows XP, 7, 8/8.1, and more), so I prefer using Rufus.

Yes, to unlock an Encrypted Volume that was encrypted by VeraCrypt would require VeraCrypt to be installed on whatever device you're using to unlock the encryption.
I'll put it this way, if the files were still encrypted while you were using them, then how would you use them? The encryption would stop you just as much as them.
Nope. Turn off the internet, I suppose?
 
You can secure your computer as much as possible by making sure you have an active firewall (both on the PC, as well as on your router), as well as doing things like protecting your PC from malware infection, using common sense to avoid sketchy websites, don't plug other people's USB Drives into your PC, etc.
 
File/Drive encryption is incredibly useful. But it's mostly useful for if your PC is stolen, or you lose your USB Drive, etc.

I'm not sure how effective this is but: https://www.nirsoft.net/utils/opened_files_view.html
 
Alternatively there are tools built in Windows: https://www.winhelponline.com/blog/find-process-locked-file-openfiles-utility/

If there are no valid boot devices, BIOS will be entered automatically.

The only downside is that you won't be able to enter BIOS on startup. Once you boot into the OS, you can tell your system to enter BIOS on restart.
 
The benefit is only 1-2 seconds compared to having it off, so it's not a big deal either way.

I wouldn't even want to estimate a time, as it more depends on the temperature. Playing a simple game with low ambient temps would mean it can take quite a bit for them to turn on.
You can keep an eye on the temps, the fans should turn on at around... 50-60C plus IMO. I think. That is what I would estimate.
Also, the GPU will not get damaged by such temps. It will throttle at over 85C nowadays, the fans should have turned on at that point already.
 
If you are worried the fans are not working at all you can simply run a benchmark/stresstest and get a grasp of when the fans do turn on.