Blindsay

There are two different kinds of DP->HDMI cables: passive and active. Because passive cables rely on the host basically outputting HDMI signals to the DP connector, with MST to HDMI you need an active adapter cable (i.e. takes in true DP, outputs HDMI) in order for it to work.

Because G9 Neo / Neo G9 is more advanced and much costly to build. The mini-LED is the one make the cost increase.
 
The cost you get is very high; even stock prices in my country are not that high, and this model has been heavily promoted for quite some time.
I only pay USD$1.55k for this purchase. This model is currently priced at USD$1.45k in my country.
 
https://www.samsung.com/my/monitors/gaming/odyssey-neo-g9-g95na-49-inch-ls49ag950nexxs/
 
 

Thanks for that info, I had just mentioned the 240hz since they push that so heavily, I wasnt sure what else might have been different. So between the two the G9 Neo seems to be the way to go. Any other monitors in this class i should consider? being able to do Picture by Picture for work is probably the biggest thing i cant compromise on

The G9 Neo series is not solely for this reason - 240hz. The Neo series is the only one that has 2048 local dimming zones and uses mini-LED. This makes a significant difference in HDR gaming and HDR video playback, and it is the only provide pure black like output.
 

 
 

I never shoot in auto for anything, and thats a great way to learn.
I would recommend doing some online courses.
The main settings you need to know are ISO, shutter speed, aputure, white balance (and frame rate if shooting video).

You are mixing the two up. The graph is for the Cyberpower UPS solution.

The 2000wh number is for the Bluetti product which is something else I am considering and has nothing to do with the Cyberpower setup

That's an estimation. Runtime is based on amperage, not watts. Watts defines the maximum load, but the amperage of the load can vary, depending on what's plugged into it.

Np, also, i already edit my original comments and add a phanteks p200a if you want little bit more space or a rad is a must bcs you can mount it in the front

Yeah the AIO was a nice to have but an air cooler is fine with me, I will check that one out, thanks!

11600k is probably one of, if not the best CPUs for gaming.

Alright well if anyone runs into a similar issue I was able to get it working.

Ending up using EaseUS partition master to clone all the data from the optane drive back to the HP drive, Just the (C:) partition to (D:) partition making sure not to mess with the EFI or recovery partitions.

After just cloning the data I used BCDBoot to make the partition bootable and then BCDEdit to clean up the mess.

Successfully back on the HP drive and everything is exactly how it was. Now to sell the Optane drive.

Thanks everyone that responded

Thanks for the info, the drive is GPT (I just double checked it).

Since the HP drive contains the EFI partition, right now If i yank the Optane drive out of the system in theory my system should just boot to the old HP drive and everything would be there minus anything that I added new since I cloned the drive.

Could I just copy the contents of my current (C:) to (D:) (as they are in the photo) and then that would let me boot with all the new files? (need something more than just a copy/paste via explorer though)

I couldnt do eSATA but USB 3.0 is fine 

Oh I just totally found the one I want haha - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08DLSC1TJ

All I really want is it to pass the disks individually which it sounds like that one will do

Orico makes a number of external enclosures, including one that can be daisy chained. https://www.orico.cc/usmobile/product/detail/id/7164.
 
Startech also has multidrive models, but I believe they are usb 3.0 or eSATA.

I'm worried about fitting all the cables back there (along with a commander pro etc.)
 
Crazy how such a big case can run out of space so quick
 

Test fitting the ITX board (Ill have to take it out when the cpu block arrives since you cant get to the back of the ITX board)

Well in theory everything is ordered. Never fails to amaze me how much watercooling gear can add up to lol.

Cool, thanks

So it will be the EK 28mm 480 in push/pull for the 10850k and a 2080S (possibly future 3080/3090) and then a 20mm 360 rad in the roof in pull for an 11600K by itself (this is the cpu that will be in the ITX system)

You could do dual 240's in a dual loop config and still have enough heat dissipation with that, you'd be fine. The custom 3080/3080 cards come with 240's roughly 28mm in depth already, and keep them around 60-ish degrees, so it'd still be sufficient with smaller/slimmer rads.
 
As for the 10850K, that chip is just going to run hot no matter what basically, but you'd also be fine with smaller/slimmer rads for that.

Good to know for future reference, thanks.


I ended up ordering the Enthoo Pro 2, the 1200W Revolt X (finally got it at a reasonable price), the ITX board/RAM, a 480 RAD for the front (I might regret getting the 60mm), more corsair QL fans and the Phanteks D140 rear distro.

That should give me enough parts to start figuring out my loops.

Attached a quick photo from my current build. I plan to mostly transfer my gaming PC as is (still hoping to get a 3080/3090). Going to keep all the QL fans white, the blue liquid in the gaming PC and the RAM is white/blue. In the ITX build I plan to do purple liquid and then Purple/White on the RAM (I also grabbed trident z royal for the ITX build)

My tentative plan is to mount an EK FLT 120 D5 pump/res combo at a 90 degree angle off of the front rad for the ITX system and then an EK FLT 240 D5 above that for the main system. HDD cages will likely sit somewhere on the bottom

i would go for one of these:
Arctic freezer 120
CM ML120R
Corsair H80i
 

I'm not aware of any new AIOs with rad this thick. Custom ones that you have to build yourself from scratch maybe.

Thicker rad > push/pull > standard. Arctic Freezer ii 120 for example, 38mm thick rad instead of 25-27mm on Asetek designs.

There are differences. I'd go with a Liquid Freezer II 120mm - with PBO enabled (yes I tested it) my Ryzen 5 3600 hits max 73C fan push and an open side panel. Costs ~$80 USD, looks nice, and has a VRM fan in the block.

It's fine, especially if you want lights. Corsair H80iv2 and EVGA CLC120 don't have lights.
 
None of the 120mm AIOs have anything to do with good performance however. This is what you get with a case like this. To keep temps low, you will have to undervolt and no more overclocking the CPU.
 
GPUs cheat-ish in cooling by not having an IHS and not as thermally dense. In other words, easier to cool under the same heat output