Aranwe

I also got my power consumption for the folding month. My PC draws about 200W when folding, so for 30 days that's around 140kWh costing 31€. Some quick math and I get about 1€/Mppd. Single GPU setups aren't particularly efficient...
 

I also got my power consumption for the folding month. My PC draws about 200W when folding, so for 30 days that's around 140kWh costing 31€. Some quick math and I get about 1€/Mppd. Single GPU setups aren't particularly efficient...
 

I also got my power consumption for the folding month. My PC draws about 200W when folding, so for 30 days that's around 140kWh costing 31€. Some quick math and I get about 1€/Mppd. Single GPU setups aren't particularly efficient...
 

I also got my power consumption for the folding month. My PC draws about 200W when folding, so for 30 days that's around 140kWh costing 31€. Some quick math and I get about 1€/Mppd. Single GPU setups aren't particularly efficient...
 

got the power bill finale.
it was a + 50 $ cost for me to fold for event.
Thankful due to how cold it has been here.
the bill was lower and also i did not need to but ac on.
i wont be doing the b day event.
due to a pest control bill i expect by end of week.

Utilization limit basically means there is no limit active, there simply isn't any demand for more by the program that's running.

Yeah, though some also make use of the inherent capacitance or limited bandwidth of certain circuit elements, which smells a lot like propagation delay but is slightly different. But it's a bit of a conundrum, you can always go for the really simple RTL two transistor memory cell, but then you instantly have four - five transistors if you want it to be usable, and then when you want it to behave properly and you already have six, then you want to up the speed by not driving the transistors into saturation, etc. It's all a bit fudgy sometimes.
 
If you need some inspiration, try"Digital Integrated Electronics" by Herbert Taub and Donald Schilling. It's an old book, but it shows some practical schematics on how you might design these things. But there's no real way to reliably go below 6 transistors with a discrete mosfet-based flip flop I think, if you want it to behave as a proper flip-flop you need a few more, so ten ain't unreasonable. If you're planning to make a ram bank you could go for dynamic memory and cut down on transistors a lot, but then you have to design a memory controller which is a whole headache of its own. As to using monte-carlo simulations, that's definitely worth doing. Just remember that the feature in some spice variants (e.g., LTSpice) that takes the min-max of each value isn't guaranteed to hit the worst-case scenario. Depending on how paranoid you are you want to use a uniform distribution to check for the effect of your component value spread.
 
And if you're up for some "cheating" to get the number of solder joints down, you can always look into making latches with an opamp or comparator though. I've had to do that a few times in radiation-hardened designs where regular flip-flops are generally not available. If you do it right you can make quite reliable and simple latches, just be sure to not use one with an open-collector output like I had to do. *Walks away grumbling and cursing about LM139s.*
 

Making your own processor is a bucket list project for many electronic enthusiasts. At the heart of any digital system there are two parts:
Logic gates Latches A cpu can be designed using a description language such as VHDL, which can be synthesized into an actual schematic with logic gates and latches. Usually this is then implemented on an FPGA, but it is totally possible to built it using discrete components, which has been achieved multiple times (such as the monster 6502). The biggest constraint is the number of components, thus it makes sense to spend a lot of time on perfecting a latch structure that uses as few components as possible. The most commonly used structure for discrete latches is a set/reset latch with enable. Putting two in series with opposite clock polarity forms a master/slave flip flop.
 

 
This topology uses 5 transistors per latch, so 10 per master/slave flip flop. Can we do better?
 
Quick note: some structures exist with less components by using capacitors to detect the rising edge or create delays, which limits the maximum frequency. This is not the most elegant solution.
 
Aside from two transistors whose gates are crossed, I only found one other latching structure found in power electronics: the thyristor. A thyristor acts like a diode with a trigger, which turns on by injecting a small gate current and will stay on even after the gate is released until the current goes to zero. My first idea to turn a thyristor in a functional latch with enable was this:
 

 
The latching branch with the thyristor is switched off when the clock goes low, and memorizes the data when the clock is high. This doesn't work in practice as the injected current in the gate is cut off too fast to enable the SCR circuit to turn on. After a lot of trial and error I managed to get a working DFF structure, which is by no means perfect nor elegant, but functional (I tested 3 D flip flips in series and inverted the last one to make a Johnson counter):
 

 

 
Even though the initial goal of reducing the component count is not yet achieved, I think this circuit has a lot of room for improvement and that some optimization can be done. Please let me know if you have some ideas to perfect this design!
 

Thanks for your feedback! Even though I got a "working" simulation, I agree that it doesn't guarantee by any means that it will work with real components. That's why I'm looking for improvements and other ideas 🙃 Don't latching circuits work at all thanks to transistor imperfections? 🤔 Edge triggered circuits take advantage of propagation delays ; too much of a delay and the signal can propagate through several gates at a time, but too small of a delay and it won't have time to latch at all.
When I get to a more refined design I could perform a Monte Carlo simulation to see if disparities in the components values will affect the circuit. This won't replace real world testing either, but it could help bringing up problems before making a test circuit.
 
Do you know any other topology to make a latch using as few components as possible?
 

Ground is the reference level, negative is lower than the reference level, positive is higher than the reference level.
 
Now we can look at this at a couple of levels, let's start out with the easiest way to interpret an operational amplifier:
You have two terminals, and the voltage you apply between them is multiplied by something around 1 million. The plus and minus terminals indicate how the opamp looks at its inputs, it'll subtract the voltage from the negative terminal from the one applied at the positive terminal. And it will generate the new output voltage in respect to ground (the reference). You can assume that ZIn is by all intents and purposes nearly infinite, making it an ideal volt meter, and Zout is almost zero, turning the output into an ideal voltage source. So you don't really need to know the mathematical models or resistor values for simple circuits like this.
 
Now you have your circuit there, you have three stages: a relaxation oscillator, an integrator turning a square wave into a triangle wave, and an integrator turning a triangle wave into a sine wave.
 
Relaxation oscillator
Because the output of the operational amplifier is an ideal voltage source, you can just assume that all the wires that are attached to it are independent. So the 100kOhm/22kOhm resistor going to the opamp's + terminal willy apply 22 kOhm / (100 kOhm + 22 kOhm) * Voutput (about 0.2 Voutput) to that terminal.
On the negative terminal we have a variable resistor charging or discharging a capacitor (1 µF), so the opamp's negative terminal voltage will slowly increase during charging (at an exponentially decreasing rate.
Now the big issue is, are we charging or discharging? Imperfections in the opamp will cause it to sway one way or the other, possibly even the colour of sandals that Linus is wearing that day might have an influence on this, so for the sake of simplicity let's assume that everything starts at 0V and the voltage applied to the positive input terminal is 1 µV larger than the one applied to the negative terminal of the opamp due to little gremlins (this ain't an unrealistic value to be clear). The opamp sees this input and will generate an output of about 1V (1 µV * Gain-Bandwidth Product for LM324 = 1 µV x 1000000 = 1V), this in turn means that the positive input opamp terminal voltage will rapidly increase to 0.2V, while the negative terminal will lag behind because that capacitor needs to be charged through that large resistor, so now the opamp wants to supply 0.2V * 1000000 = 200 kV, but it is limited by the positive supply voltage. Let's assume the positive supply voltage is 10V, so positive input terminal now reaches +2V, and the negative input terminal's voltage slowly starts to increase. Because the difference between the two remains so large, the opamp keeps supplying 10V on its output. The voltage on the capacitor, and the negative input terminal keeps increasing as a result. And assuming my brain works on a Sunday morning, that means that the negative input terminal will reach 2V in about 20ish milliseconds. At that point the negative output becomes larger than the positive output by a couple of millivolt, again the opamp tries to amplify that but it runs into the limited supply voltage on the lower side (let's take -10 V). So the positive terminal input now becomes -2V. The capacitor starts to discharge through the 100 kOhm variable resistor to -10V, so after a short while (ain't going to try this one without a calculator) it'll reach this value, and the opamp will switch around again because the positive input voltage became higher than the negative one. So what happens is that the opamp will repeat either +10V or -10V on its output continuously at roughly a constant rate.
Now I urge you to not read the wikipedia page for relaxation oscillators, since it was written by folks who want to show "ZOMG I'M SO GOOD AT MATHZ" instead of providing a reasonable explanation. You can find good explanations on how it works on multiple electronics websites and in pretty much all books that cover basic opamp oscillators.
 
Integrator
The signal from the relaxation oscillator goes to an integrator circuit. Due to the aforementioned mathz, this circuit acts like a mathematical integrator. And if you integrate a constant voltage, you get a line that ramps up or down depending on the sign of the voltage. Now in practice this works because the opamp inputs have quasi infinite resistance. So the current flowing through the 10 kOhm actually goes towards the capacitor, slowly charging/discharging it depending on the voltage applied by the opamp's output (terminal 7) with respect to its input. But a simple way to look at it is that you're applying a constant voltage to the capacitor and charging it, so it'll go up proportionally over time, creating a triangle wave on the output of the opamp. The reason they put a resistor of a similar value between the positive terminal and ground is to ensure that the opamp's input stage is evenly "biased", that reduces the offset error on the input.
 
Second Integrator
This one repeats this by integrating the line segments into something parabolic, which due to the non-idealities is almost a sine-wave.
 
You can find a reasonable explanation of these things here (only skimmed through them so not sure how detailed it is):
https://www.electronics-tutorials.ws/opamp/op-amp-monostable.html
https://www.electronics-tutorials.ws/opamp/opamp_6.html
 
 
Now in terms of how good LM324 opamps actually are (datasheet: ti.com/lit/ds/snosc16d/snosc16d.pdf1 - equivalent circuit on the first page):
Input resistance is quite high, for an LM324 you're looking at a 20 to 50 nanoampere flowing into the terminals in a practical circuit like this when applying a couple of volts to the inputs. So that gives you tens to hundreds of megaohms of input resistance. So it's quite safe to ignore that when you're not using megaohm-sized resistors. For added fun, this opamp will actually output current from its input, not draw current in. The output resistance will depend on the output voltage. But given that you just have transistors there directly to the supply rails it's going to be quasi zero, and the current will be limited what the transistors can take, not by the resistance. A modern LM324 has an input offset voltage of about 1 - 5 mV in practice, depending on the circuit it's put into. This can go either way and might vary depending on the circuit you put it in. This is because you're kind of throwing off the differential pair amplifier (Q1 through Q4) at the input. Amplification is given by the "gain bandwidth product" (GBW value in MHz). To avoid getting into defining bandwidth and why this is a reasonable approximation, we basically found out that amplification x bandwidth of an opamp is pretty much a constant value. For an LM324 this value is 1 MegaHertz, which is pretty average but not bad. So an LM324 can amplify a 10 Hertz signal by 100 000, or a 1 kilohertz signal by a factor of 1000. If you try to make it do more, weird things will happen. Measuring these values is by no means trivial, and they're not constant! This is also why the manufacturers will rarely mention them, and it's also why most serious analog circuit designers have a fancy high-end bench multimeter that measures things like nanovolts and nanoamperes. But in practice for most hobbyist applications, you can just assume opamps are ideal blocks that have infinite amplification and no appreciable weirdness.

Well, I like it, but there could be some improvements in the layout.  There's lots of small things that jump to me. 
Pretty much you could rotate all the 3 pin transistors 90 degrees to the left, basically like the one on the top left corner and you'd get better layout. 
I'd also rotate the HDR1 jumper header 180 degree and move the printed text HDR1 to the left of the header , just like the INPUT 2 header.  Then, move the HDR2 header to be in line with the HDR1 header 
I'd also place that header by the headphone jack in the unused space behind the headphone jack  and basically be consistent, have all headers in the same orientation if possible. Why have some horizontal and some vertical? 
Don't use aluminum electrolytic surface mount capacitors... use through hole, they're more stable long term.
No idea why you use individual BC848 when you could use pairs for example MBT3904 : https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/onsemi/MBT3904DW1T3G/1477283
 
For at least a couple of your transistors you could get pre-biased transistors and save room on the pcb by not having to add the 10k resistors : https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/nexperia-usa-inc/PEMH9-115/1157407
 
I suppose you'd want to use as many components as JLPCB has in their inventory... 
 
for example : the top right corner (with the VS4 pad) could be arranged like this and get the same result  : 
 

 

Nothing inherently wrong with using a switching converter on a mic preamp - I've done it, and it works pretty well. Companies like Meanwell makes some nice little potted DC-DC converter modules. You can get a dual output, isolated 5 V to 15 V converter for something like $6. They're reasonably quiet, but if you're really worried about it you could add some linear regulators or capacitance multipliers. That said, your 5 V USB power source (whatever that is) is likely to be quite noisy. 
 
Regarding balanced inputs; microphone preamplifiers have always been a significant design challenge. For decades, you really couldn't get a decent microphone preamplifier without using an input transformer. This transformed the relatively low output impedance of the microphone into something more optimal for a typical BJT amplifier, and it typically gave a useful 10 - 20 dB of gain. While these transformers aren't ideal by any means, they didn't sound bad (and a lot of people believe their distortion is a good thing), and the really good ones made by Lundahl and Jensen were really pretty linear. The big problem with them is cost - a good microphone transformer ranges from $50 - $250 each.
 
Later, as op-amps got better and engineers got smarter, you started to see most microphone preamplifiers using a mixture of op-amps and BJTs, and the topology used in the Soundcraft 600 became pretty common. It performed reasonably well, and it saved the size and cost of an input transformer. A more refined (and lower noise) version can be seen in the Crest V12 console, the schematic for which I've also attached. As a bonus, the Crest V12 is a much newer desk, and that means legible schematics.
 
At some point in the 1990s, Crest Audio (well-known at the time for their 8001 power amplifier) bought the company of a man named Jim Gamble. As a result, Crest consoles showed a strong resemblance to the legendary Gamble EX56.
 
Also, here's another good reference on these topologies:
http://www.thatcorp.com/datashts/AES129_Designing_Mic_Preamps.pdf
 
 
 
 
 

Also, because this may serve as a useful reference, this is the thread I started over at DiyAudio when I designed my first discrete microphone preamplifier. This was also the first discrete transistor circuit I designed, so I made some dumb mistakes. Nevertheless, there's some good information to be gleaned from that thread, and the final circuit actually performs quite well. 
 
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/solid-state-balanced-microphone-preamplifier.337494/page-2
 
As a note, that was also the first PCB layout I ever did, and consequently probably the crappiest layout I ever did. It worked okay, but if you want to use that circuit I strongly suggest redoing the layout. It works as it is, but the lack of a ground plane and lazy decoupling is pretty obvious when looking at a step response.
 
I keep meaning to come back to that project and clean it up - new layout, recalculate a few part values, but just haven't had time. 
 

One concern I have with this is that you don't have balanced inputs - that's a problem for microphone signals. You might get away with it if the cable is short, but balanced inputs on a microphone preamp are important for keeping hum and noise down.
 
You also seem to be using a lot 1 uF caps in the audio path, presumably those are the MLCC ceramic caps- careful. Ceramic caps are often microphonic, and they also tend to be rather nonlinear. Unless they're C0G/NP0, keep them out of the audio path. They're good for bypass caps though.
 
All that said, it's nice to see someone who isn't afraid to design with discrete transistors.
 
 

Hey everyone, I just wanted to share this project I've been working on.


Some of you may have seen DIY Perks's video where he makes a DIY USB microphone. I really liked the idea so I decided to build one myself. Mechanically his design is amazing, but I wanted to make some improvements on the electronics side 🙂 
 
The preamp used in the original video was designed to work with electret microphones. These are a special type of condenser microphones that require a very low voltage opposed to true condenser microphones, that require 24 or 48V phantom power. Electret microphones are therefore commonly used in portable devices and are often very small, which is why most people associate electret microphones with poor quality. There are a few capsules with bigger diaphragms like the JLI-2555BXZ3-GP, but those can be hard to find.
My preamp is a multi stage transistor based preamp that offers high gain, so it can work with dynamic microphones. It is built around the BC848 NPN transistor and is designed to boost a microphone signal to a suitable level for an ADC converter. 
 
1. Stages
There are 4 stages in total.
The input stage is a common emitter design that offers a high input impedance and adds +18dB to the signal. Next are two low harmonic distorsion differential amplifiers that boost the signal to the desired output level. Finally there is a common collector circuit that offers a low output impedance. On the PCB there are multiple jumpers to uncouple the stages and probepoints to test each stage individually. This also allows to bypass one of the differential stages if less gain is required, or add another preamp if you need more !
 
2. How to build one
If you want to build a preamp for yourself, all the design files and specifications are on github (https://github.com/AranweLTT/mic_preamp). I am still actively working on documenting the project and improving the design, so any feedback is welcome ! Please let me know if anybody would be interested in a kit, or even ready to go PCBs available for purchase.

3. Does it actually work ??
I ordered a first prototype on JLCPCB and surprisingly enough there was only one major issue : I forgot a trace in the current mirror for the differential amplifiers so I had to fix this. Other than that I measured the gain above +46 dB, and tested it out with a dynamic microphone which worked flawlessly ! Even though the preamp has a micro usb input for power, I used a lab power supply because even after filtering the power is very noisy over usb… 
 
3. Improvements !
I'm already working on a amplified headset output so you can monitor the output directly (software monitoring has an aweful delay, so you either go hardware monitoring or you go home). I'm also planning on integrating a codec directly on the pcb rather than having to add one downstream. This way it is a true USB microphone (for now the micro usb port is only for power!! No data !!)
 
 
Please let me know if you have any ideas. Also if there's any 3D designers that can help me out with designing an enclosure your help would be more than welcome !)
Tschüss !
 

 

 

 

 
schematic_preamp_v4_2.pdf

Hey everyone, I just wanted to share this project I've been working on.


Some of you may have seen DIY Perks's video where he makes a DIY USB microphone. I really liked the idea so I decided to build one myself. Mechanically his design is amazing, but I wanted to make some improvements on the electronics side 🙂 
 
The preamp used in the original video was designed to work with electret microphones. These are a special type of condenser microphones that require a very low voltage opposed to true condenser microphones, that require 24 or 48V phantom power. Electret microphones are therefore commonly used in portable devices and are often very small, which is why most people associate electret microphones with poor quality. There are a few capsules with bigger diaphragms like the JLI-2555BXZ3-GP, but those can be hard to find.
My preamp is a multi stage transistor based preamp that offers high gain, so it can work with dynamic microphones. It is built around the BC848 NPN transistor and is designed to boost a microphone signal to a suitable level for an ADC converter. 
 
1. Stages
There are 4 stages in total.
The input stage is a common emitter design that offers a high input impedance and adds +18dB to the signal. Next are two low harmonic distorsion differential amplifiers that boost the signal to the desired output level. Finally there is a common collector circuit that offers a low output impedance. On the PCB there are multiple jumpers to uncouple the stages and probepoints to test each stage individually. This also allows to bypass one of the differential stages if less gain is required, or add another preamp if you need more !
 
2. How to build one
If you want to build a preamp for yourself, all the design files and specifications are on github (https://github.com/AranweLTT/mic_preamp). I am still actively working on documenting the project and improving the design, so any feedback is welcome ! Please let me know if anybody would be interested in a kit, or even ready to go PCBs available for purchase.

3. Does it actually work ??
I ordered a first prototype on JLCPCB and surprisingly enough there was only one major issue : I forgot a trace in the current mirror for the differential amplifiers so I had to fix this. Other than that I measured the gain above +46 dB, and tested it out with a dynamic microphone which worked flawlessly ! Even though the preamp has a micro usb input for power, I used a lab power supply because even after filtering the power is very noisy over usb… 
 
3. Improvements !
I'm already working on a amplified headset output so you can monitor the output directly (software monitoring has an aweful delay, so you either go hardware monitoring or you go home). I'm also planning on integrating a codec directly on the pcb rather than having to add one downstream. This way it is a true USB microphone (for now the micro usb port is only for power!! No data !!)
 
 
Please let me know if you have any ideas. Also if there's any 3D designers that can help me out with designing an enclosure your help would be more than welcome !)
Tschüss !
 

 

 

 

 
schematic_preamp_v4_2.pdf

Hey everyone, I just wanted to share this project I've been working on.


Some of you may have seen DIY Perks's video where he makes a DIY USB microphone. I really liked the idea so I decided to build one myself. Mechanically his design is amazing, but I wanted to make some improvements on the electronics side 🙂 
 
The preamp used in the original video was designed to work with electret microphones. These are a special type of condenser microphones that require a very low voltage opposed to true condenser microphones, that require 24 or 48V phantom power. Electret microphones are therefore commonly used in portable devices and are often very small, which is why most people associate electret microphones with poor quality. There are a few capsules with bigger diaphragms like the JLI-2555BXZ3-GP, but those can be hard to find.
My preamp is a multi stage transistor based preamp that offers high gain, so it can work with dynamic microphones. It is built around the BC848 NPN transistor and is designed to boost a microphone signal to a suitable level for an ADC converter. 
 
1. Stages
There are 4 stages in total.
The input stage is a common emitter design that offers a high input impedance and adds +18dB to the signal. Next are two low harmonic distorsion differential amplifiers that boost the signal to the desired output level. Finally there is a common collector circuit that offers a low output impedance. On the PCB there are multiple jumpers to uncouple the stages and probepoints to test each stage individually. This also allows to bypass one of the differential stages if less gain is required, or add another preamp if you need more !
 
2. How to build one
If you want to build a preamp for yourself, all the design files and specifications are on github (https://github.com/AranweLTT/mic_preamp). I am still actively working on documenting the project and improving the design, so any feedback is welcome ! Please let me know if anybody would be interested in a kit, or even ready to go PCBs available for purchase.

3. Does it actually work ??
I ordered a first prototype on JLCPCB and surprisingly enough there was only one major issue : I forgot a trace in the current mirror for the differential amplifiers so I had to fix this. Other than that I measured the gain above +46 dB, and tested it out with a dynamic microphone which worked flawlessly ! Even though the preamp has a micro usb input for power, I used a lab power supply because even after filtering the power is very noisy over usb… 
 
3. Improvements !
I'm already working on a amplified headset output so you can monitor the output directly (software monitoring has an aweful delay, so you either go hardware monitoring or you go home). I'm also planning on integrating a codec directly on the pcb rather than having to add one downstream. This way it is a true USB microphone (for now the micro usb port is only for power!! No data !!)
 
 
Please let me know if you have any ideas. Also if there's any 3D designers that can help me out with designing an enclosure your help would be more than welcome !)
Tschüss !
 

 

 

 

 
schematic_preamp_v4_2.pdf

Hey everyone, I just wanted to share this project I've been working on.


Some of you may have seen DIY Perks's video where he makes a DIY USB microphone. I really liked the idea so I decided to build one myself. Mechanically his design is amazing, but I wanted to make some improvements on the electronics side 🙂 
 
The preamp used in the original video was designed to work with electret microphones. These are a special type of condenser microphones that require a very low voltage opposed to true condenser microphones, that require 24 or 48V phantom power. Electret microphones are therefore commonly used in portable devices and are often very small, which is why most people associate electret microphones with poor quality. There are a few capsules with bigger diaphragms like the JLI-2555BXZ3-GP, but those can be hard to find.
My preamp is a multi stage transistor based preamp that offers high gain, so it can work with dynamic microphones. It is built around the BC848 NPN transistor and is designed to boost a microphone signal to a suitable level for an ADC converter. 
 
1. Stages
There are 4 stages in total.
The input stage is a common emitter design that offers a high input impedance and adds +18dB to the signal. Next are two low harmonic distorsion differential amplifiers that boost the signal to the desired output level. Finally there is a common collector circuit that offers a low output impedance. On the PCB there are multiple jumpers to uncouple the stages and probepoints to test each stage individually. This also allows to bypass one of the differential stages if less gain is required, or add another preamp if you need more !
 
2. How to build one
If you want to build a preamp for yourself, all the design files and specifications are on github (https://github.com/AranweLTT/mic_preamp). I am still actively working on documenting the project and improving the design, so any feedback is welcome ! Please let me know if anybody would be interested in a kit, or even ready to go PCBs available for purchase.

3. Does it actually work ??
I ordered a first prototype on JLCPCB and surprisingly enough there was only one major issue : I forgot a trace in the current mirror for the differential amplifiers so I had to fix this. Other than that I measured the gain above +46 dB, and tested it out with a dynamic microphone which worked flawlessly ! Even though the preamp has a micro usb input for power, I used a lab power supply because even after filtering the power is very noisy over usb… 
 
3. Improvements !
I'm already working on a amplified headset output so you can monitor the output directly (software monitoring has an aweful delay, so you either go hardware monitoring or you go home). I'm also planning on integrating a codec directly on the pcb rather than having to add one downstream. This way it is a true USB microphone (for now the micro usb port is only for power!! No data !!)
 
 
Please let me know if you have any ideas. Also if there's any 3D designers that can help me out with designing an enclosure your help would be more than welcome !)
Tschüss !
 

 

 

 

 
schematic_preamp_v4_2.pdf

You need to know the physical layout you want (for classic staggered kbs):
- ISO (short left Shift with extra button, vertical Return/Enter)
- ANSI (long left Shift, horizontal Return)

AZERTY/QWERTY - is a software layout that can be changed either in keyboard firmware (QMK or similar) or/and in your OS (Win/Mac).
 
Most keyboards you probably encounter (available online, internationally) are ANSI with QWERTY.
You can buy whichever you like and then change the software layout.
 
If you are bothered visually that letters are mismatched you can change the caps.You should make sure that the cap profile is matched, otherwise you will have uneven/mismatched level of the buttons.
 
Concerning the 60-70 and arrow keys.
Even if you don have physical arrow keys, you can use other buttons as arrow keys (QMK-like firmware or an app installed).
So a tap on right Shift is arrow up, tap on right Ctrl is right etc, or while holding right alt you can make WASD transform to arrow keys, or anything else.

Yeah, the primary waterloop transfers the heat into the buildings central heating through a water/water heat exchanger

Update: after some more digging it's actually been hanging on 30% for over 10h... Quick reboot and everything's alright now. 

Update: after some more digging it's actually been hanging on 30% for over 10h... Quick reboot and everything's alright now. 

Keep on mind he said it's a mobile chip, so you can't compare it to a full 1660 Ti. For a desktop 1660 Ti 900k is indeed very low, but doesn't seem that bad for a mobile chip. I run a 1660 Super that averages at 1.1M ppd but that's because it's a full desktop card. A mobile chip has way less power and thermal headroom

Right I'm home, need food then will see if I have it in me to write a blog post lol 

Yea they are super inefficient though easier to build then a full on phase change cooler so more accsesible
 
Maybe ill look into phase change ram + cpu + gpu but its prob gonna be really hard to build, maybe later in the future but for now i just need to subzero ram, once ram bottleneck is gone then i might move on to subzeroing the nb, currently the bottlenecks from immedeate to lesser is cooling - mb - ram - nb
 
 
Im kinda torn on whether i should work on voltmodding my g31 and making that my main rig or just using the p5q cause p5q sucks ass fsb wise compared to the g31 but has alot more ocing settings than the g31 (non voltmodded), though for voltmodding ill have to ask another forum cause its some pretty niche info nowadays
 
Btw for 14nm absolute max safe volt seems to be around 1.6v and deathzone is around 1.9v so you got quite abit of volt headroom though you just need to have adequate cooling for the card
 
For the tec idea i think youll need to cover the gpu and vram with a 5mm thick peice of metal (copper prob works best but aluminum is cheaper), i think its to stabilize the temp or something or thats what i heard when i asked w9 forums about nb tec cooling