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H713

Member
  • Content Count

    81
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About H713

  • Title
    Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    USA
  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    Audio equipment, analog electronics, vacuum tubes, DIY audio projects, Amateur Radio, sailing, physics
  • Biography
    I'm an engineering physics student / intern who designs analog audio equipment for fun.

    Some of the audio equipment I've designed:
    -Elac 510 clone loudspeakers (crossover was my design)
    -Push-Pull 6L6 power amplifier
    -Push-Pull 1625 power amplifier
    -Discrete Class A balanced microphone preamplifier
    -Discrete op-amp
    -Discrete balanced line stage with transformer balanced outputs
    -Op-amp line stage with MDAC attenuation and electronically balanced inputs and outputs (used in my lab)
    -Approximately 10-15 projects that have been 85-90% complete for at least 9 months.
  • Occupation
    Engineering intern

System

  • CPU
    Core i5 4460
  • Motherboard
    Asrock H97M
  • RAM
    16GB Crucial DDR3
  • GPU
    Quadro 2000
  • Case
    In-Win 303
  • Storage
    2x Samsung 250GB 850 EVO
  • PSU
    Antek HCG620
  • Display(s)
    HP 27" IPS + 22" Acer auxiliary
  • Cooling
    Arctic Cooling Freezer 13 limited edition
  • Keyboard
    Corsair Strafe (Cherry MX blue)
  • Mouse
    Logitec G403
  • Sound
    Quested Q108 Active Studio Monitors (primary)
    Elac 510 (my own clone) passive speakers + Quested AP700 amplifier
    Discrete Class A line stage with electronically balanced inputs and transformer balanced outputs (also my design)
    Lynx L22 Sound Card


    In the Shop:
    Sony MXP-2900 16 channel mixing console (under restoration / modification)
    BSS EPC780 power amplifier (under restoration)
    +around 15 less interesting projects.
  • Operating System
    Windows 10
  • Laptop
    Mid-2012 Macbook Pro
  • Phone
    They're all turds, what difference does it make?

Recent Profile Visitors

439 profile views
  1. Not finding much information about a "Harman Kardon 4830". You sure that's the right model number?
  2. You could also use your Schiit Stack for playback, then use the audio interface only for the mic preamp and ADC. Most software allows you to select different devices for your audio input and audio output. That said, there is nothing not to like about the DAC in the M2 or the 2i2.
  3. "25% volume" means absolutely nothing in terms of SPL. That depends on the sensitivity of the headphones in question among other things. It sounds to me like you're listening at a ridiculous volume level. Don't underestimate the ability for headphones to cause hearing damage. Headphones can be a bit dangerous in this regard because you can be listening at extremely high volume levels without realizing it.
  4. I haven't had one in hand to ensure that the manufacturer didn't do something boneheadedly stupid, but my suspicion is that the reviewer doesn't have a clue what they're talking about. First off, they're probing the RING on the TRS connector, which is NOT ground, it's a signal pin. Second, it is not uncommon to see audio equipment with a chassis that isn't referenced to mains Earth. In fact, equipment that IS referenced to mains Earth is often more of a problem since it causes ground loops. Furthermore, a smartphone is floating, so for all it cares that whole TRS jack could
  5. Direct monitor often means that it mixes audio from the DAW with the analog input. Some interfaces have a pot for balancing between these two, others (like the Focusrite Scarlett) have a switch. When the Direct Monitor is not switched on (or if it has a pot, when the pot is fully in the "digital" position), then the outputs on the back are an analog output just like any other sound card. When it IS switched on, then it depends on the interface. It could monitor ONLY the microphone inputs, or it could monitor both the PC audio (digital inputs) and the microphone inputs.
  6. You'll probably need a summing amplifier of some form. Why do you want to do this? There are a lot of reasons why it's probably a bad idea. The easiest way to do it is to just buy a cheap mixer and use the line inputs. There are cheap things on the market that would probably be good enough for this. I've never had one of these in hand, so I can't promise you that it isn't woefully awful, but for $27 it might be worth a try. It's simple enough that it would be pretty hard to screw up designing. You'll have to buy / make some cables to use it though. https://www.eba
  7. H713

    Can it do 250ohm????

    Agreed. The price you'd be paying for that Behringer is in the Scarlett 2i2 / MOTU M2 category. The DACs and ADCs in that console will be VASTLY inferior. Furthermore, I've used one of the Behringer Xenyx mixers. I think it was the 8-channel one, I don't remember. I wouldn't even consider buying one. We're talking about a $150 or so analog mixer. At that price point, you're getting the utter cheapest pots, switches and faders available. They get noisy after a while, and there isn't much you can do on the really cheap ones. If you look around, you can pic
  8. Not overpriced at all, if they're using those Linear Systems JFETs. Those are NOT cheap parts. Once you factor in the enclosure / manufacturing costs, low volume and the "pro audio" tax (which is to say, it needs to be high quality and reliable), then I'd say that none of these are unreasonably expensive. Klark Teknik is owned by the same parent company as Behringer. Just like the Midas of today is a far cry from the Midas of 30 years ago, the KT of today is not what it once was. Pro audio is a place where ultra-low-cost is not the primary concern in most cases. I've h
  9. I'll pitch my usual recommendation for Grados when it comes to headphones. I use the SR225Es, some might prefer the SR325E (though IMO the difference doesn't justify the cost difference). For what they cost the SR125s and SR80s are a good choice as well. Best thing you can do (and admittedly it's really hard to do right now) is find a way to listen to them before you buy them. Just because one person likes something doesn't mean you're going to like it.
  10. 40 mV is not going to be a problem. When I design power amplifiers I like to shoot for <10 mV, but that's as much an academic exercise as anything. Really good amps like the MC2 MC series will typically have <3mV. Some amps don't have an adjustment for it, so the DC offset is dependent upon the matching of the transistors in the input pair. Even 100 mV of DC offset won't really cause a major problem, though it definitely isn't ideal. A distorted output can be caused by any number of things. You didn't specify a specific model number, but if it has preamp outputs,
  11. One other thing to do is to make sure that any sort of "enhancements" are turned OFF in windows sound settings. They usually just screw things up. This is one area where Apple has largely gotten it right. Their software handles audio much better than Windows does. There's a very good reason why the pro audio industry so heavily favors macs.
  12. If you can possibly go for real speakers as opposed to a sound bar, do so. I know it can be a pain to position them, but most soundbars are really terrible. Even with a subwoofer, the distortion is often bad enough to be annoying.
  13. H713

    TV Audio setup

    Some of this depends on what your budget looks like. I once tried a pretty expensive sound bar (I think it was in the $500 range) in hopes of getting around the AVR issue and returned it after about 15 minutes. It sounded considerably worse than even a relatively cheap pair of speakers. The active speakers suggestion isn't a bad idea. You may also consider looking at stereo receivers, sometimes they're less stupidly designed than the 5.1 / 7.1 / whatever.1 AVRs. Sometimes you can find an integrated amp with a You asked what I'm running... I hate AVRs as much as an
  14. I'm based out of the same city as Full Compass, so they're usually my first choice for this kind of thing. Website sucks, but I've always had great experiences with them. https://www.fullcompass.com/prod/128828-hosa-mhe-1005-1-4-trs-to-right-angle-35mm-headphone-adapter Here's one on on Amazon, though it isn't a right-angle connector. You'll have to do some more digging if you want that. https://www.amazon.com/MillSO-Headphone-Adapter-Amplifiers-Headphones/dp/B07SRWZ77L/ref=sr_1_6?crid=M1B3V6TL5P5Q&dchild=1&keywords=1%2F4+to+3.5mm+adapter&qid=1614418272&sp
  15. They're probably almost the same thing, in fact they're probably using the same chip from TI / AD / THAT, at which point it becomes an issue of implementation. I've never actually cracked one open- do they just use an SSM2019 and a balanced line driver? That's probably how I'd do it, but maybe someone has come out with a differential amplifier chip with noise specs suitable for this.
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