LyondellBasell

Just to clarify: are you using your boot drive as a scratch drive+working drive? That's what I'd do if you're after max performance. The only way you're going to see a performance hit is if you're trying to load footage on the 4x6 array and then edit it from there. Import the footage to your scratch drive, edit, and then store your final product and backup files on the array once you're done.

I think it's pretty rare that you would need to adjust the aperture while actively recording. If you meet the following criteria: multi-person crew operating your camera workflow involving one-shots where the lighting changes drastically unable to adjust your on-set lighting sufficiently are unable to use continuously variable ND filter then you might need to adjust the aperture on the fly. Otherwise, no, just set the appropriate aperture for your shot and use your FF for the focus.

Why tho. There's no reason for this, other than "It would be really nice." Having the "top line GPU" isn't nearly as important as something like "Internet access" or "mobile phone access". You could make the argument that the latter two are so important and intrinsic to daily life in a 1st-world country that we *should* insist that people be able to afford them. Don't get me wrong, I love games and I think alot of people can derive a great amount of joy from them. BUT They certainly aren't required to own a brand-new flagship to do so. As for I don't think anyone is recommending you do that, lol. If you're putting a 3090 in a system where the entire rest of the system only cost you $1400, you're probably looking at a mismatched system. I would posit that 30-40% would be a better percentage to work with.

Just going to help clear up a few misconceptions here: It sounds like you may have heard something along the lines of "using an APU will hurt your performance." The truth of it is, when using a discrete graphics card, using an APU only hurts your performance relative to a similar CPU with the same TDP that doesn't have onboard graphics of the APU. You're not sharing memory unless you're trying to run the APU and your discrete card in some sort of Crossfire setup. That...doesn't mean much of anything. The "4K HDR" label on the box is a marketing term. Essentially, they are telling you that if you plug this card in your system, the "3840x2160" resolution will become selectable in your display control panel, and "HDR" will become a toggle-able(togglable?) option in Windows settings, provided you have a monitor that supports both of these features. The framerate that your card can push these settings is key, here. Sure, you can turn on ultra settings, but it sounds like you're getting a slideshow and some screen tearing. The RX 570 is meant for gaming at 1080p. You're asking far too much from the hardware you have. It's not going to help nearly as much as upgrading your card will. At a 4K resolution, you're placing far more demand on your card than your CPU. Put a 2080Ti in there and then we can talk about being CPU-limited.

I have an LG monitor that uses HDR as well. Make sure you have HDR turned off in the game as well. As soon as the monitor detects that the game is trying to send it an HDR signal, it's going to default to HDR on.

As nox stated above, it may be more helpful in this case to not think of the chair as your standard, run-of-the-mill desk chair that most people are used to buying. These chairs are expensive, built to last, and built to be sat in for MANY hours of the day. As a durable good, they hold their value better than many other office items. Hence the entire business of office seconds distributors, who are in business to try and capture some of that value that these items hold. A better analogy may be something like a used car. (I know cars are more expensive, it's just an apt analogy.) The car and chair both went for a high price when new. Some business has had this chair sitting in a conference room in an office park somewhere for a few years where it got used during meetings. When that business closes, or decides to relocate, they're not going to deal with the hassle of transporting all their furniture to the new spot. It's much cheaper for them to get a contract for delivery of entirely new items. So a seconds distrubutor will come in, buy the furniture from the business, pull it out and warehouse it, and then sell it to people like you who want a quality item without the expense of having to buy factory new.

Absolutely. Noble, secretlab, and the rest of the "gamer" chair companies are relatively new to the market and still clinging to the idea that somehow bolting wheels onto a Recaro makes it great for office work. HM has been in the office designing ergonomically sound chairs for a long time. Their products are pricey but they know what they're doing. I don't know what is available in your immediate vicinity but if you do a cursory search for "used office furniture distributor", you should get several hits.

I've seen the Steam survey and some of the 3rd party breakdowns and I share your initial astonishment that there are enough buyers out there to not only keep Nvidia's high-end market afloat, but thriving. We are out here, though. Speaking purely anecdotally, I and the majority of my Discord friends have all dipped into the Turing market during the last two years. Most of these are young professionals who have access to enough spare resources and place a high enough value on gaming/PC hardware that they have no problem securing a 2070 Super or better for their daily drivers. Percentage wise, this is a small number. However, I think this belies the total number of people with high-end hardware. Consider the expansion of the total size of the gaming market over the past 10 years. Between the rise in popularity of streaming, the fact that big-name gaming stars have more visibility than ever, and the further democratization of personal computing, there are alot of people buying the more common prebuilts and budget-focused hardware (or at least, being gifted it) and this is "diluting" the survey numbers.

Just to clarify: are you saying your desk has no rear edge? If it's a desk with a back panel that prevents you from accessing the back edge in terms of mounting solutions, you have two options: cut a hole that will allow a clamp to fit through OR Drill a hole through the desk. This will allow you to use a grommet-mount solution (either pole or articulating arm style) You can, of course, go with a stand-base solution like the one you linked but it *does* eat up room on your desktop and the other two mentioned solutions are much cleaner.

It's legit, it's just office seconds, they wholesale these all the time. As far as something to watch out for: the Mirra is a hardback chair. While it's possible the fitment is perfect for you and you'll love it, I'd recommend the Aeron instead. The back and seat are more forgiving and will accept a wider variety of body shapes. It's about L50 extra but absolutely worth it, even if it takes a few more weeks to save for. Buy a good unit once and it'll last you at least 2 PC upgrades' worth of time.

If you want the cleanest solution, I'd recommend three separate monitor arms. With the center monitor you can get away with a pole or simple clamp mount since you wont need to move it and it'll be farther back on the desk. For the outside two, you'll probably want articulating arms that will reach far enough out on the desk to let you match the curves of all three. You can buy the amazon basics ones but if you can afford a little extra, Ergotron offers some much nicer solutions that will last you even longer than the monitors will.

Tried both and I'll say, I think the argument for either depends on how budget conscious you are while making the decision. They'll both get the job done. Is the 2.8 heavy? Yes. But the F2.8 Version 3, in the new white, with AirSphere, is REALLY nice. It's definitely a unique look, when opened all the way up at 200mm. You don't NEED it. But it's in the Holy Trinity for a reason.

I'd love to have a 5120x2160 38" Ultrawide that I can drive at 144-160 hz. Got the 38" from LG right now and while 3840x1600 is *pretty* darn good, it's still not as sharp as my 32" 3840x2160. So: Resolution: "Retina" density, at "desktop" viewing distance Size/Aspect Ratio: "Up to peripheral" size coverage at 21:9ish Color Repro: 85%+ Rec. 2020, cert. for HDR1000 or higher. Refresh: "smooth enough for all but the most pro-level fps players" Probably 3-4 years out but I'm confident we'll blow past this before the decade's through.

Here's my background: started with a t6i and kit lens. Bought EF L glass for upgrades. Jumped up to EOS R two years ago, been working with the R || RF>EF Adapters || EF Glass ever since Since we're looking for a budget-conscious solution here, I'd buy the R instead of the R6. Wait two more months until the R5 is freely available, the price on used/new R's will drop, and you can get a 30MP FF for a steal. Is the touch bar stupid? Yes. Is it a deal-breaker? No. The camera is usable for everything but critical sport shooting. I've used it shooting out the back of a camera car flying down the track shooting motorcycles, and the focus/controls/speed got the job done just fine. I would recommend just buying RF glass if you see yourself on the platform. You CAN still experience native-level performance when adapting EF glass, but the extra length of the adapter, and the remarkable quality of the new RF glass means that even though you *might* be saving a few bucks buying the EF version, it's not going to be worth it for continued use. If you're determined to get an RF body and adapt it to EF, I will say, the adapters are really nice. The ND filter is amazing for when you need to shoot video and want to swap between different lenses but don't want to have to buy filters for each lens. The polarizing filter does a good job but won't *totally* kill indoor reflections on certain types of glass if that's what you're hoping to use it for. It's definitely geared more towards outdoors-glare-killing.

The above recommendations for cameras and mics are great, so I'll just add in the lighting section: It's okay if you don't have room directly behind the monitor for lights. If your setup backs up to a wall, you can point the lights at the wall. Bounce lighting will be nice and soft but will still work to add more light to your setup and make your camera's job easier.

If gaming and high color accuracy are priorities for you, both Asus and Acer offer a 144hz, 4K panel with HDR1000 support. The monitors exist (always a positive), they have been widely reviewed, and they can be bought from established companies.

I'm not going to make a blanket statement and say that this is completely untrue. It may be possible that whatever specific application you're referring to DOES encounter this issue. HOWEVER I have never run into this issues. I have two monitors. 1080p144hz, and 4k60hz. I open games and benchmarking apps on either monitor and run them at that monitor's max refresh. The 144hz monitor is in no way limited by my 60hz monitor. Maybe there's a setting you need to change in your application when dragging it from one monitor to the other?

Probably a marketing gimmick more than anything, BUT, I'd just like to point out, that whatever ceramics they're using would be optimised for conducting heat rather than insulating. The last thing you'd want to do is trap/reflect the heat of the controller against itself. I don't know how well ceramic works relative to standard copper heatsinks, but they'll definitely be using it to leach heat off the small hot parts and spread it into something with more mass.

Yeah, but good monitors have less than a third of the LG C9's 14ms input lag. Color gamut, image brightness, HDR support, etc are all super important. It's definitely frustrating trying to find a display that ticks all the right boxes. But having your onscreen actions happen after a long delay? Far more frustrating in day-to-day use. All displays come with some sort of sacrifice, but there's definitely a reason why 240hz TN panels still sell.

I understand your point but you're comparing 3CCD 1/3" footage to 35mm film footage.

Look at the monitor arms from Chief. The construction and design is solid and will hold a large panel. I have a very heavy 32" panel that I've had mounted to mine for years.

Right there with ya. Although, now that they've officially released a lot more of the specs for the R5, I feel much more confident that they've felt the fire that Sony lit under them and came out swinging. I'm hoping that the dynamic range and DPAF live up to the hype of the promo images. Fingers crossed, we might get the top dog this go-round.

Totally depends on what features you prioritize in a monitor. What is important to you? Price? Color accuracy? Deep blacks? Refresh rate?

All cables and ports specifically called "DisplayPort" will have the same shape and pin-out arrangement. For the MOST part, all DisplayPort cables will work up to the full spec of any version designation, *unless* they're labeled as a "reduced bit rate" cable. Basically, feel comfortable in choosing any monitor that has a DP input. As long as you have a decent, non-bargainbasement cable, it will be plug-and-play, and you'll get the max out of your display.

In my experience, your system RAM is much more of a limiting factor in PS performance than your graphics card. With the exception of some operations like extensive stitching, you should be just fine.