Jump to content
Search In
  • More options...
Find results that contain...
Find results in...


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by LyondellBasell

  1. Nope, I believe you're correct. They're the same panel, the Alienware is HDR600 as compared to the 38GL's HDR400. The Alienware is technically the best panel, unless you prefer the look of the LG.
  2. 38" UW's a nice format. If you like your Dell but want to add HDR+Gsync, maybe look at the LG 38GL950G-B. Yeah, it's not HDR1000. It's one of the best panels you can buy though.
  3. Whatever you choose, don't base any decision you make on "input lag" or "response time". You will not be able to tell with your usage case. We're not talking high-tier, competitive FPS here. There's no camera movement, there's no crosshair, and nothing you do is split-second. The things that will matter to YOU are pixel density, screen size, and display mounting options, since it sounds like you have limited space and may want the change how everything's lined up at some point. You should buy solely based on these things.
  4. I think I'm a bit confused on what you're looking for. I understand you want a monitor mount that's freestanding, am I correct that you want the mount to hold two G32QC panels?
  5. I think you can make a great cooling setup for less than £700. I don't believe there's any reason to even bother with sub-zero. You have a server-size space, and noise isn't a factor. Get some great radiators, and use some server-grade fans to pump as much air as you can through the system. If the server space is properly ventilated, you'll keep everything close to ambient and you can do it indefinitely with yearly maintenance.
  6. There just really isn't a market for them. Right now, most of the work being done that requires high resolution can be done perfectly fine at 4K. I can only speak to the limited photography and cinematography experiences I've had, but for us, color reproduction accuracy is far more important than any push beyond 4K. I usually sit about 2-3 feet back from the mastering displays and from that distance, the individual pixels are not readily distinguishable. I *guess* it would be nice to have even larger displays to appreciate the impact of some of our larger-format work before it goes to pub
  7. Yes, the more light you can give yourself, the better your end-image will be. As far as color temperature goes, 6500K is going to be a little bit on the cooler side, or more blue. You can adjust the color temperature right there in-camera, but if for some reason you had no way to adjust it, I'd recommend going with a slightly warmer light rather than a colder one, cold light tends to be less flattering for skin tones.
  8. In that case it's probably best to find a bright lamp or several that fits within your budget and either bounce it off the wall, shoot it through a sheet, or make a homemade softbox.
  9. The short answer is, it depends. The long answer is, it really depends. We need some more information: Are you going to be taking photos or video? What environment are you going to be working in? Indoors? Outdoors? How much control do you have over the light that already exists in your space? How far away are these lights going to be from your subject(s)? Are these lights going to need modifiers for the look you're shooting for? Basically, if you want an exact answer to "how many lumens do I need", you'd have to give us a Cine Designer file and
  10. My setup is very much like the one you describe, my mounting point is on the back of my desk and I like my monitors suspended very far forward so the they float over my keyboard and mouse. I've got three recommendations for you depending on your mounting style preference. They're all from Chief, you can look them up either through the Legrand A/V website or through ErgoDirect. The K1C330 is a single desk mount that spiders into three dynamically adjustable arms. The center arm doesn't look like it's adjustable for depth, so this may or may not be the right one for you,
  11. >Newegg.com >Monitors >Sort by price High>>Low >Select #1 result >Checkout Now In all seriousness, start with what you know. You have a budget, and you have a screen right now. What does your screen do right now that you wish the new one would keep doing? What does your screen not do right now that you wish the new one would? Do you like your aspect ratio? How would changing it affect the applications you use? Do you like your current monitor's color reproduction capabilities? What would you gain/lose from a change i
  12. I'm sure there are *some* people out there who are annoyed by it, but I am willing to bet that that market's pretty small, to the point of it not even being worth it to add another SKU for most manufacturers, let alone to develop another process they're happy with. That's not to say that they're not working on improving image quality though. Screens have gotten WAY better in terms of both clarity and glare rejection.
  13. I think it depends on what you're looking for when you say 4K. There's panels like the LG 38GL950G, which is 3840*1600. You're correct in that it isn't "true" 4K or DCI 4K. No ultrawide will be in the expected 3840*2160 resolution, simply because of the aspect ratio. So you'll either have to look for something like the 38GL950G, which is 4K in the horizontal dimension, or something like the LG 34WK95U-W, which is 5120*2160, which is "4K" in the vertical dimension. (and 5K in the horizontal). To help the rest of us make better suggestions, can you elaborate a little m
  14. That's fair. Getting rid of the stand is going to be a huge plus, no matter which way you decide to go with it. You won't be able to do any vertical height adjustment on that one but if you don't mind, it's pretty much impossible to beat that price. You can always decide what solution you'd like to use for your second monitor later. Once you get the UW mounted, you can see what kind of space it leaves you and I'm sure it'll give you a much better idea of what looks best for your setup. Best of luck!
  15. Are you *absolutely* sure you want to wall mount it, as opposed to maybe getting a grommet or pole mount? I understand the appeal of a wallmount. It frees up desk space on the actual surface and floating panels look much cleaner. On the flip side, you're limited in positioning. You'll have to put the mount over a stud, and extend your arms from there. If the stud is off center, you'll have to live with it. If you ever want to change monitors down the road, you'll have to make sure the panel size and weight can fit with the mount and arms you have. I'd recommend a g
  16. Totally a subjective opinion thing that depends on your personal visual acuity, the type of content you interact with, and how close you sit to your displays. That being said, the *general* recommended advice is that 24" is a good size for 1080p, 27" is a good size for 1440p, and 32" is a good size for 4K. 4K at 27" is definitely going to be sharper. You can do the PPI calculation and compare it to other sizes and see if you're in the neighborhood of what you're shooting for. I personally find that 32" is a great size for my 4K display such that I can use i
  17. I have an LG 38GL950G and love it. It's 3840x1600 so while you do give up some vertical real estate compared to a true 16:9 4k monitor of the same size, I find the ability to maintain relatively high framerate to be worth it. I'd recommend at least a 2080Ti for optimal experience. I find the monitor's color reproduction, refresh rate, and black levels to be excellent. I don't use the monitor at the overclocked 175Hz refresh rate, I prefer to leave it at 144Hz to avoid the worst of the overdrive issues. The HDR400 is nothing outstanding, but it works, and HDR content
  18. Just to clarify: are you using your boot drive as a scratch drive+working drive? That's what I'd do if you're after max performance. The only way you're going to see a performance hit is if you're trying to load footage on the 4x6 array and then edit it from there. Import the footage to your scratch drive, edit, and then store your final product and backup files on the array once you're done.
  19. I think it's pretty rare that you would need to adjust the aperture while actively recording. If you meet the following criteria: multi-person crew operating your camera workflow involving one-shots where the lighting changes drastically unable to adjust your on-set lighting sufficiently are unable to use continuously variable ND filter then you might need to adjust the aperture on the fly. Otherwise, no, just set the appropriate aperture for your shot and use your FF for the focus.
  20. Why tho. There's no reason for this, other than "It would be really nice." Having the "top line GPU" isn't nearly as important as something like "Internet access" or "mobile phone access". You could make the argument that the latter two are so important and intrinsic to daily life in a 1st-world country that we *should* insist that people be able to afford them. Don't get me wrong, I love games and I think alot of people can derive a great amount of joy from them. BUT They certainly aren't required to own a brand-new flagship to do so. As for
  21. Just going to help clear up a few misconceptions here: It sounds like you may have heard something along the lines of "using an APU will hurt your performance." The truth of it is, when using a discrete graphics card, using an APU only hurts your performance relative to a similar CPU with the same TDP that doesn't have onboard graphics of the APU. You're not sharing memory unless you're trying to run the APU and your discrete card in some sort of Crossfire setup. That...doesn't mean much of anything. The "4K HDR" label on the box is a marketing term. Essent
  22. I have an LG monitor that uses HDR as well. Make sure you have HDR turned off in the game as well. As soon as the monitor detects that the game is trying to send it an HDR signal, it's going to default to HDR on.
  23. As nox stated above, it may be more helpful in this case to not think of the chair as your standard, run-of-the-mill desk chair that most people are used to buying. These chairs are expensive, built to last, and built to be sat in for MANY hours of the day. As a durable good, they hold their value better than many other office items. Hence the entire business of office seconds distributors, who are in business to try and capture some of that value that these items hold. A better analogy may be something like a used car. (I know cars are more expensive, it's just an apt analogy
  24. Absolutely. Noble, secretlab, and the rest of the "gamer" chair companies are relatively new to the market and still clinging to the idea that somehow bolting wheels onto a Recaro makes it great for office work. HM has been in the office designing ergonomically sound chairs for a long time. Their products are pricey but they know what they're doing. I don't know what is available in your immediate vicinity but if you do a cursory search for "used office furniture distributor", you should get several hits.