wzrd

1.45V is that a typo? that's way too high for that CPU.

Well the reason you are running so hot is the safe max for that CPU is 1.4V You either need to lower that or be prepared to kill it sooner rather than later.
 
EDIT: I've not owned one but I've heard the 5820K overclocks better than the 6800k so if this is a recent purchase you could change and see better results.

He should but if he lost out big time on the silicon lottery and requires those settings for that frequency then he needs to accept defeat and lower that voltage.

I said real world because these synthetic tests are great for stability but not indicative of real life temps. Open the monitor software, use the computer as you normally would for a day, then before shutting down check your max.

the Pentium should be more than enough, you also have a future upgradability 
 
also, love the walking dead games, i stopped playing after lee dies. 
 
still, no future upgradability

those  CPUs are vary low powered, low IPC made for cluster environments.

Curious one, you are
 
Brown wires are ground, silvers are power
Try either being helpful, or if you don't know the answer then just don't reply. Being deliberately obtuse doesn't really help anyone.

thanks

Curious one, you are
 
Brown wires are ground, silvers are power
Try either being helpful, or if you don't know the answer then just don't reply. Being deliberately obtuse doesn't really help anyone.

Curious one, you are
 
Brown wires are ground, silvers are power
Try either being helpful, or if you don't know the answer then just don't reply. Being deliberately obtuse doesn't really help anyone.

apologies, i literally can't read today rip me

It's not worth voiding your warranty to swap the TIM yourself. If it's still under warranty I would RMA it. Razer tend to be pretty good about this kind of thing.
 
I would agree that it's definitely RMA worthy. Those temps are insane, and definitely not typical or acceptable.

you my bae, bae <3

That's extremely odd. While it does sound like the motherboard has failed, it would be quite a coincidence if the motherboard were to fail at exactly the same time as you installed a new GPU. Do you have access to another Z87 compatible CPU you can use to test the motherboard?
 
You are correct in assuming the iGPU should still work, so I wouldn't assume damaged PCIe lanes are the culprit.
 
All signs point to the motherboard being the issue, but as I said it would be one hell of a coincidence. Just to double check, all relevant PSU cables are plugged in, yes? 8/4 pin EPS, 24 pin ATX, etc?

It's highly highly unlikely, but a remote possibility. It's possible you damaged the motherboard, but this wouldn't extend to any other components in all likelihood. Did you unplug the power from the back of the PC?
 
I said your motherboard is likely the problem, not the CPU. But you would need a second CPU to test the motherboard, is what I'm saying.
 
As I said, I doubt it as well, but it's better to be safe than sorry.

On the subject of one brand vs the other, I've never owned the MSI, but I highly highly recommend the SuperCarrier. It has some of the best build quality I've seen in a 1151 motherboard, and an absolute plethora of features. It's honestly probably overkill for most people, but if you don't mind spending the money on it you can't go wrong with it.
 
4-pin just refers to the type of connection, not the number of them. All RGB connections are 4-pin. The only way to sync that many fans would be using some kind of RGB hub, like the NZXT Hue+ or similar, and connecting that controller to the RGB header. There are a multitude of these, and compatibility across them varies quite a bit, so use whatever is recommended by the manufacturer. The downside is that they tend to be relatively expensive. Unfortunately RGB anything is just outrageously expensive - there isn't really a cost effective way to go about what you're describing.

Alright, so I didn't get to tampering with the BIOS settings because it's exam season and I had to reallocated some time.
But I just updated from Anniversary Build to Creator's Build, which got Witcher up to 120FPS again. The GPU is now at full steam ahead!
I am, of course, happy about all this, but also a little sad, as I never figure out what the underlying cause was. I am thinking some Windows Update messed it all up, but I guess I will never know.
 
Anyways, thanks for the help! It's been extremely helpful!

It has its benefits for thicker rads with higher FPI, and in this situation definitely won't do you any harm if you don't mind spending money on it, but the gaskets @W-L mentioned might also be a good option - I honestly didn't even realise they existed.

For Ryzen, it's not the motherboard that has issues with memory, it's the Ryzen cpu itself. The processor has received several updates and will receive very soon another major update that will increase the memory compatibility by a large degree, so whatever advice you'd get now regarding what memory sticks work or not on a motherboard, will soon be invalid.
 
The processors receive updates through BIOS updates. After you update the BIOS of a motherboard, the bios "uploads" microcode (a sort of mini bios/firmware) into the processor to enhance its capabilities)
 
As for overall "ranking" of motherboard manufacturers it's often a matter of past experiences and biases of various people. Personally, I'd go first with Gigabyte, then Asrock, then Asus and then MSI (maybe even put MSI before Asus but MSI isn't that popular in my country and I personally had little experience with them) and after these four maybe Biostar and then maybe ECS (but ECS is kinda non-existent these days in stores here).
 

Heat is determined by voltage as opposed to clock speed. Undervolting can lower temps.
 
You're overestimating how much power you think you need. NFC is a channel with great examples of what you can do on small psus. 
 

You can run extension leads outside of your computer to your desk to sync everything, as for kits to DIY and wire up the kits such as theses from supernight are quite good.
https://www.amazon.com/SUPERNIGHT-Waterproof-Flexible-Controller-included/dp/B00B2F3KDQ/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1494292404&sr=8-13&keywords=rgb+led
 
https://www.amazon.com/Liwinting-Extension-Connector-Ribbon-Connectors/dp/B01EAHRZEC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1494292377&sr=8-4
 

Electrical tape + water = adhesive weakens = leak = RIP PC Electrical tape + pressure  = adhesive weakens = leak = RIP PC Or just electrical tape + small invisible gap/crack = leak = RIP PC ...etc

holdup so you want him to just take a chance with his entire build to see if a single method works? I can think of better ways to spend that money if I'm ready to just ruin it in an instant  

@MasterRaceMcqueen To expand on my earlier post, even a completely stock 7700K will clime into the 50s and 60s quickly just in the BIOS.
 
I often use a stock cooler to test the 7700Ks I order in, but this is as far as I would take it. If you try to use a 7700K with a stock cooler, it will overheat to the point that it throttles very quickly, and end up behaving like a lower end CPU, not to mention you won't be able to overclock it, defeating the point of buying a K CPU with an unlocked multiplier anyway.
 
As everyone who actually owns one will tell you, it really won't fly - the 7700K is a very hot chip.

As @JohnT pointed out there is no stock cooler at all with a 7700k, and stock coolers shouldn't be used, even for moderate use - there is a reason Intel don't include them. Please don't mislead the OP.