markes12344

One serious problem with your build: two i7 CPUs will never work in a double socket board. You have to go for Xeons.

i like my onion more, but yes, this is probably a better explanation. +1

It was hidden because it was slow and not even working properly
 
Use google and add site:Linustechtips.com to your search criteria

www.google.com
"insert search words here" site:linustechtips.com

I assume all cards are designed to run good on air.  I don't think SC version are better parts or maybe I got bad luck with mine compare to ref cards from EVGA.  If you don't bother to hack bios and voltage... the base clock difference is neglected

Stren will be doing a usual block test but it takes time.

I will go Bitspower for sure just becuz their customer support is awesome...
According to them the block for 980 and their Rad will come out in the next two weeks

None of the above, wait for a 980 Classified Hydro Copper and buy one of those instead. So you can actually take advantage of a watercooled 980 (unlocked voltage with a Classified). At the moment watercooling the 900 series proves to do nothing at all, since they are voltage locked and not limited by heat on air.

I'd say the difference on all of those is significantly less than 5Celsius. Get the one that fits your build the best...

A reference card and an EK full cover block will be cheaper than the EVGA Hydro Copper.

If I were you, I'd give spinrite a try, it takes forever, but its very thorough with checking disks and doesn't destroy data (unless you want it to...).
 
It says its only happened 5 times, so obviously you won't hear it all the time. Still is a bad sign.

Hello Bupalooga,
since most, to all, files wont be write protected or administrator approval needed, i would suggest;
-attaching the 1tb and 500gb to the motherboard
-then bring up the 2tb folder view
--place to fit one side of your screen
-then bring up either the 1tb or the 500gb 
--repeat as you did with the 2tb but this time to the other side of your screen
-then highlight all and click and drag
-then change the drive to the next one 
-and repeat, highlight all and drag
 
I would wait 10 mins or until all the files are counted and starting to transfer, if no, yes no questions pop up than go to bed, it'll be awhile.
this method is as you asked, copied. 
 
I have done this myself many times, always has worked. NEVER CUT and paste, power outage can be a prick to you then. there is no need to get software to do a manual copy. 

one extra thing i do is highlight all the files/folders and right-mouse click and view properties. do this on both original and new files, see if the bits are roughly the same... some variance can occur due to placement of files on the platter, but its a good way to see if all files have been transferred. 
 
QUICK ANSWER
COPY FILES.
 
Best regards
Markes12344
 

western digital drives typically last for years, very few, to the abused drives get a short life span. 
if your going to buy a second 2 tb drive in a year may as well start with the bigger drive. 

Personally, for consumer use, i wouldn't bother with a Red id go Black or if only used seldom a Green. Its just Red drives are ment for constant use ware n tear, on that note it sure aint gunna die on you any time soon. 
 
The only issue you may find is if in 3 years you need more storage, could you ever add a 3rd drive and raid5 or a 4th drive and raid10? if not the 3tb or 4tb drives are there. 

wel this looks nice but its only measuring the voltages from psu it would make more sense if you know the voltage of your fans or leds etc ?
 
alto great work.

Hey guys, I'm back and revealing my log, bear in mind I'm no professional and sometimes got to much into it to remember to take a picture of everything i should of.
but anywho here's the log of my mod to add the volt meters right to the psu. 
 

company
 

Well packed, unless ran over, the content would be find. was also in a bubble envelope. 
 

rough idea of their size
 

my first idea. later decide to stick with 3, 12v 5v 3.3v
 

seems to perfect to be true, to test meters. 
 

Little bit of modding to put both Vin and Vcc to a 12v wire. (yes these chips use 12v for power)
 

Not sure what one works best to show, but they work
 
Okay so i forgot to take pictures of my cutting out process.

Basically i followed these steps.
-Masking tape over outside
-marked out my holes with a straight edge
-cut out with dremal and zip-cut blade. 
-then cut the corners out with a box cuter knife
-placed the volt meters in and flush then hot glued down
-had to cut the edge off the meters to make fit back on pc (they where to thick ill explain more next pic)
 


So added the ground and power wire (easier to see in second pic but the grinding of the edge to the volt meters)
 

my benchish area... handiest little clamp thing to work with, if you ever see one get it. 
 

with the wires untwisted you can wiggle one into the other to solder together.
Just testing to see if the meters work still after soldering wires on.
(see handy little clampy guy)
 

all soldered up
 

so had to damage the molex female fingers to get them out of the plastic (figured out a better tool later)
 


i then use the female end, put it onto the male, then by pushing the connections together by holding the wires only not the plastic, you then can pull the male out of the plastic. without wreaking its fingers. 
 




So my new tool. a old rc remotes antenna, now i didn't have the whole antenna or i could of found a better fit. but luckily i had this last piece and got it to work. (the rest of the antenna i used as a rc boats propeller shaft and sleeve to have a tight fit seal, anywho enough of that)
 

oh yea the whole reason for this wire pulling thing was to take two fan adapters and make a 12V, ground, and 5V wire adapter
 
 
realized i had no 3.3V easily. so new idea. pull the forks out... diss-mantal a module sata cable from my PSU
 


clip the ones i don't need, oh crap i clipped both grounds. Okay just i just made a 2 end sata cable, it'll come in use still. luckily I still had another module cable to do it right. 
 


handy little guy again. with the crappiest solder job...
 

needed smaller heatshrink but it worked. 
 

first test with psu cable soldered on. on to the next 2 meters. 
 

btw this is how i solder. heat up the wires a little then apply 60/40 solder to the tip right where it meets the wires and let the wires suck the solder up into them. a little bit of dragging the solder back and forth on the wires after its melting may be needed. also i use a 60W variable pen @45-60W depending on what im doing.
 

okay so they all work but i messed up... 5v and 3.3v i mixed up from rushing with confidence. opps. still will work tho. 
 

hot glue over the soldered ends just for security. 
 

So my some what cable organization.
 

and it all works. just cant get a decent picture with my note3 sorry no pro here, can't really get my hands on a real camera to remove the led glow. at-least you can see them some how in reverse off the lenses i believe. 
 
 
anywho that's all for now, hope this case mod is informative and neat for all you. 

Acrylic tubing.
 
Evaporation occurs because soft tubing is porous.

And I repeat myself - you'll have to buy a soundcard with optical input for the audio to work.
 
However, you wont be able to get the microphone to work.

Does anyone knows where to get that mat that linus uses on his table? And preferably in the Netherlands. And happy birthday linus

Nice find

I personally used a really diluted mix of bleach n distilled water. used it inside my entire loop. including my bitspower fittings and cpu block. so far no negative side affect has occurred, now of course when i say diluted i mean really diluted. and only ran for 10ish minutes before a constant flush of clean distilled water for another 5 minutes occurred. i will say i either got lucky or was simply playing with fire while controlling the fuel. 

Near same res pump combo, difference being my res cam deeper, pump is 90degrees to yours, and is then inside of res housing, not extruding from case.
I know on mine the res has rubber dampened nuts, therefore if yours is the same, do not over tighten them nuts, just keep em snug. this will absorb most vibration. 
Also i have a PWM D5 pump so i am not sure on my speed vrs yours, but when i maxed my pump speed to bleed system, combo still ran near silent. 
so maybe see if the pump itself isnt faulty in the sens of a unbalanced impeller. there should little to no shake from the pump. 
Maybe think about re-tightening the pump to res, the tighter it is to the res the more the res will shake, but if the res itself is vibration damped... ie a rubber nut sorta thing, then it should be a little more silent than the pump vibrating against the res. 
Overall if you still can not solve problem maybe try this res instead at Frozen CPU, or another vendor if need be. that is of course you have the 60$ to spare. I have no complaints with the res at all. 

Hopefully any of my mumble jumble helps
Cheers
Markes12344

If only i could rep, kudos my friend. i didn't catch the difference in the b B nor did it don on me when the magic number was 8, yet i always did know there was a difference, learned it when i questioned why the Hard drive companies advertising say 500Gbs and the computer reading something like 480GB.
Again Kudos fine sir, Kudos to you. 

... A Byte has 8 Bits in it. It's a package of bits. 
Gb = Gigabit = 1,000 megabits = 1,000,000 kilobits = 1,000,000,000 bits
GB = Gigabyte = 1,000 megabytes = 1,000,000 kilobytes = 1,000,000,000 bytes
1 byte = 8 bits
1 GB = 8 Gb
bit =/= byte and thusly Gb =/= GB
SSDs get around 550 MB/s while the theoretical maximum of SATA is 750 MB/s or 6 Gb/s. Not 6 GB/s. 
1 Gb/s = 125 MB/s
 
6 Gb/s = 750 MB/s and I took off 25 MB/s because theoretical is never perfect. 
SSDs are probably limited to 550 MB/s or less due to the controllers or the standard for the NAND Modules setup is just not set up to handle anything more than that. Not sure. 

It will be limited to 6Gb/s. 1Gb/s is 125MB/s because 1000/8=125.
So the maximum throughput is roughly 725MB/s.
That is still pretty great. And I think the point is not RAID 0 speeds. It's increasing the total storage capacity. That is far more important in laptops.

as Badass that will be, what about simply 2 of these with a intel mobo raid.