Mina Darsh

Can see if I can help, thing with this layout, that is known as 65% layout, is that you need a 1.75U Shift (U being just Unit, so 1U is just one square button), and in this example's case, you need 1U Modifier keys for the right-hand side Mods. Looks like you also need an Escape key for the number row, and Delete for the row relative to the top Alpha keys, Page Up for the middle Alpha row and Page Down for the lower Alpha row, the rest is pretty standard.
 
Best question to start with if wanting to help finding a keycap set for this board, what is your budget?

Hmmm, don't often look on Banggood, most of the time on Ali Express, could have a look there too. So, I take it something different than what is now on the board, but still matching nicely with the case colour, if that is the case colour? Could see if I can recommend something. Also, there are many keycap profiles too, the most used one being OEM, followed by Cherry (OEM but less tall pretty much), are you looking for something like that or perhaps something else? (There are options that are much taller, more retro looking and there are options that don't have a different shape for each row, making it easier to use keys on a different row.)

5000 dollar keyboard btw  

So I went a little stir crazy while Isolating myself in these funky times.

Decided to make my own keyboard layout from scratch and hand wire a prototype.

She isn't the prettiest gal in the ball but she's definitely one of a kind, and I can really call her mine.

MOMOKA Flamingo Linears / Kailh speed Pinks
1.6mm 5052 Brushed aluminium plate laser cut by a third party and (poorly) hand bent by me.
Some 3d Printed PLA supports (will be revised, way too much flex from side to side)
Maxxkey Blue/Cream SA Doubleshot keycaps
Durock Plate Mount Stabilizers
A metric ton of wires (that will be revised eventually for better organization)
And a Teensy++2.0 microcontroller.

Not sure what to call it just yet.

Weirdo time, ION x ai03 Equinox, built with very old Cherry MX Blacks:

I type with a variation of the Colemak layout, hence the weird position of the '?/' key. Also, Caps Lock is my Backspace. Keys to reflect the actual layout are still on their way.
 

Weirdo time, ION x ai03 Equinox, built with very old Cherry MX Blacks:

I type with a variation of the Colemak layout, hence the weird position of the '?/' key. Also, Caps Lock is my Backspace. Keys to reflect the actual layout are still on their way.
 

Weirdo time, ION x ai03 Equinox, built with very old Cherry MX Blacks:

I type with a variation of the Colemak layout, hence the weird position of the '?/' key. Also, Caps Lock is my Backspace. Keys to reflect the actual layout are still on their way.
 

Weirdo time, ION x ai03 Equinox, built with very old Cherry MX Blacks:

I type with a variation of the Colemak layout, hence the weird position of the '?/' key. Also, Caps Lock is my Backspace. Keys to reflect the actual layout are still on their way.
 

Weirdo time, ION x ai03 Equinox, built with very old Cherry MX Blacks:

I type with a variation of the Colemak layout, hence the weird position of the '?/' key. Also, Caps Lock is my Backspace. Keys to reflect the actual layout are still on their way.
 

Weirdo time, ION x ai03 Equinox, built with very old Cherry MX Blacks:

I type with a variation of the Colemak layout, hence the weird position of the '?/' key. Also, Caps Lock is my Backspace. Keys to reflect the actual layout are still on their way.
 

Weirdo time, ION x ai03 Equinox, built with very old Cherry MX Blacks:

I type with a variation of the Colemak layout, hence the weird position of the '?/' key. Also, Caps Lock is my Backspace. Keys to reflect the actual layout are still on their way.
 

Yes, I take my hand off the mouse as I don't need it...
 
It goes on the keyboard, and my left will control a Pen Tablet, I draw in Photoshop. So a mouse is a recipe for disaster then. 

Depends, I game at 1080, on a 1080... I just really hate the idea of lowering settings just to get a desired minimum frame rate. Sure most games easily go over 60 FPS at that resolution, but there are some that dip below it... At 1080. (Excluding titles like Cities Skylines which are just CPU hungry.)

Got TL;Dr version? 

My Opinion change SSD for Samsung 850 EVO 256GB for $98 dollars, or other similar SSD... Intel SSD is overpriced.  Also unless you are desperate to build it now.. wait a month for Ryzen to come out. Might get a better deal with Ryzen or Intel prices may drop. 

For games like Watchdogs 2 and such heavier titles... a 1060 isn't enough, not even for 1080p.
Games are always getting more demanding.
 
More = Better

Looks good to me, but yeah, if you can afford it, I'd slap in another stick of 8 GiB of RAM.

just 8 GB of RAM?

Edited

Is it like a high-pitched noise? As that is likely normal, high FPS causes a lot of power to go through the coils which causes them to whine, you can prevent this by enabling V-Sync or a framerate limiter, some games have those built in as well.

Well, it's just my opinion, but I would always go single GPU. Why? Support for SLI can end up being somewhat lack luster with a lot of titles, you might not get more than 40% gain from the second GTX 1070 in a lot of cases also.
 
What I can suggest is finding some benchmarks as I'm sure plenty have tested this, and also see if the titles you wish to play have good SLI support or not.
 
As for the GTX 1080 Ti, I think you can wait for that, but, there have only been rumors so far about it being presented at the next big computer event, nothing solid yet.

fehrrst!
 

You could use Piano wire and simple pliers to bend the wire to the desired shape. alternatively I found this: http://www.acousticpc.com/thermalright_fc_ultima_92mm_fan_clips.html
Cheers!

LLC prevents Vroop (drop in voltage) at the onset of CPU load.  It is not intended to be used as a means of "preventing overheating," but more so for stabilizing the CPU during overclocks under load.
 
On Asus boards, LLC 5 is optimal for maintaining voltage at a fairly consistent state.  LLC 1 allows more Vdroop and LLC 7 less.  LLC 1 will run cooler as it's not compensating as much for voltage, therefor average Vcore during load is lower.  LLC 7 is the opposite where average Vcore will often exceed the user defined amount.
 
 
Look at it like this.  On average, at LLC 7, the board will overshoot user defined voltage and at LLC 1 it will come up low.  LLC 5 would result in average Vcore matching closest to your defined value.
 
I hoped that helped.

Small derp on my end, well yeah, the GPU will likely need to be removed first to force the onboard, once you get display input again it will be in the Exit menu most likely, but being able to see might be handy...