Gazeley

You can order those plastic channels/pipes/raceway/whatever they're called, and route the able on the edges of your room
Examples of what i mean :
 
D-Line CC-1 Cable Protector, Floor Cord Channel, Wire Cover, Protect Cables & Prevent Trip Hazards - 1.8 Meter Length, Cavity 17mm (W) x 9mm (H) - Black: Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools
 
D-Line 3015KIT001 4-Meter Mini Trunking Multipack, Self-Adhesive Cord Cover, Electrical Wire Tidy, Popular Cable Management Solution, 4 x 1 Meter Lengths & Accessories, White – 30mm (W) x 15mm (H): Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools
MUDEELA Cable Concealer, Cable Trunking Kit, Self Adhesive Wall Cable Tidy, Cable Cover, Hiding Wall Mount TV Powers Cords in Home Office, 8X L400mm, W24mm H14mm, White: Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools
Cable Concealer, Cable Trunking Kit, Cable Cover, Wall Mount TV Cable Management Cord Raceway Conceal to Hide Cable - 6X 40CM Length - (19x39mm): Amazon.co.uk: Lighting
 
 

You're planning on tearing up flooring? Depending on how the house is built and how far your getting into that you could run some Ethernet cable while your doing that, also have you wired into your router to see if it's the isp?

Using wifi, it can be as simple as someone using a microwave to heat up their noodles to drop you out of the game.
Wifi should be the not an option in any case gaming related.
 

Hi,My Recomendations and Experience With Networking 
 
A-My past experiences with multiple Wifi range Extenders/Boosters:
     1-Wifi Extenders Do not Work,they are design for what they say they do but at the cost of speed and latency.
     2-they are sometimes big but does not mean they can handle the capacity,the small ones you will regret them.
 
B-Troubleshooting steps:
 
1-Check your enviorement for channels and signal bands to see if they are not conflicting with each other (wich can cause problems adnd hurt your wifi performance) and
How to Do this? if you have a android phone i use wifi analyzer wich shows you all of the devices in the area  and bands you are
if its crowded the app should look like the pic i attached  if you see your SSDI (Name Of your Wifi) With a bunch of other stuff like other routers try and move them on your isp router admin console because they actually are set to auto and sometimes it can be set to join the most crowded band wich can cause interference.
 
BTW:Mine looks like that because i live in apartments and its usually pretty crowded bands with routers and idk if you live in a apartment complex but this can happen.
 
2-Check the routers config because sometimes they are not up to date and can be bad but usually mines have stayed up to date just fine.
3-also and most important one at the time of you playing are there any other devices like,laptops,tvs,smartboxes,speakers,etc being in use specially other computers in video calls or doing heavy network work why i ask? because someting that happens a lot is that isp routers are not designed to handle many clients especially doing network compsumption tasks like playing games,video calls,content streaming at the same time and can make your performance not work 
 
also including something in part 3 check in your wifi settings on the isp router that you are not limited to certain bandwith so lets say you have 200 megabytes your isp is offering but your router from the isp can be set to use 100 megabytes and you need 70 for games and lets say another person on another devices needs 50 for a videocall it will hurt your performance,disconnect you etc. because it does not have the bandwith necessary to handle its demand and its going to opt for disconnecting  for it not overloading,heating and potentialy damaging your isp router.
 
 
finally if you do not know what to do if the problem persist and do not want to mess with your isp router my suggestion is do a speedtest on using a lan port of the router and not connect to it via wifi and if you get good results my suggestion is that you place your own in there and connect just from your router lan port and on to the your router wan port  and configure it yourself following the bandwith checking to see and have better connection and better performance and just not use your main isp router wifi or you can load balance it and connect not many important devices on the isp router and important stuff on your router so it gets the performance you need for your gaming and some family member video calls.
 
hope it helps,hope you are staying safe in difficult times,and if you need anything else or have questions about this and need better explanation i would gladly help as long as i can.
 
 
 

 
ALSO THIS SHOULD NOT BE HAPPENING WITH YOUR BANDS.

WIFI extenders in my experience are indeed not the way to go, they lower speeds in order to boost the WFI range. I don't know if you have wifi range issues anywhere else on your property, if so, you might want to look into mesh networking gear but that is fairly expensive. A powerline adapter is cheaper and is worth considering over a WIFI extender if the powerlines in your house fit that scenario. As suggested before, changing the to a better router is a good first step especially since youre not crazy far from the router from what it seems. If problems persist after that you'll have to look into options I've mentioned above.

QoS (Quality of Service) is something you should be able to configure in the router. One of it's functions is bandwidth limiting. If the problem here is a fight for bandwidth you can limit everyone so you don't get bogged down. How to configure this depends on your router. I don't have your router so I can't really help you there.
 
Switching frequencies would only impact your computer. Although I suppose if you used a lot of bandwidth it might affect other family members also using the 2.4GHz band.
 
Dual-band means your adapter supports both the 2.4GHz & 5GHz standards. Most older adapters only support 2.4GHz.

I'm guessing you meant 192.168.0.1 instead of 192.168.1.0, just correcting it so OP doesn't get confused by it.

Just a quick note. Sky and Virgin are British ISPs which suggests that OP is in the UK. In the UK the ISP usually provides a free device which acts as both the modem and the router, and the configuration interface for both functions are located in the same place. ISPs call this device a "router" even though it is also a modem.

It usually assigns itself the IP "192.168.1.0" or "192.168.1.1" and you can just type that into Firefox/Chrome/browser of your choice to get to the login screen.
 
@GazeleyWhen you switched from Sky to Virgin did you replace the router that was in place with a different one? if so that is almost certainly the culprit; not all routers are created equal and by the standards of ISP-provided ones, the Sky ones are pretty good.

You can log directly in the Modem (not the Router) to check if your Modem has a problem. I don't have information on your Modem but it should be available with a quick search "(Modem model) login". It usually have a log of problem and you only need to worry about the "critical" ones. If there are a lot of problems reported, then it's either Modem or cable problem.
If there's no problem, then it's might be your Router or Adapter.
 

Do you have any other devices exhibiting these issues while in the room? Laptops, phones, tablets? What is the wall made out of?
 
From my experience 5.0GHz and even 2.4GHz Wi-Fi at times can have trouble penetrating thick concrete, brick, or cinder block walls. Service is intermittent and sporadic at best.
 
It's also possible the issue is everyone hopping on the Wi-Fi all at once.

Yeah then maybe try and wait for a couple of days, see if it persists or not.

Maybe invest in a WIFI extender? Your ping is spiking up either comes from your ISP, range of router and computer, and obstacles such as walls. Did you have any problems from the old ISP? If not, try getting an aftermarket router.

That might work. I'd suggest getting a router that has been reviewed and are from trusted brands like ASUS, TP-Link, Netgear and others. Have you tried asking your ISP what's causing the issue and if they can help you?

Peripherals are really not something that anyone can recommend. It's up to you. If you type a lot and using keyboard for work - mechanical keyboard, even expensive, will be good choice. But if you're using computer only for games, it's really waste of money. If you play a lot of games and you're good at it, buying gaming mouse may be a good choice. If you listening lot of music, buying good speakers and amplifier may be good for you. You may consider buying internal hdd hotswap bays if you're using lot of drives and/or help people with their computers (and if you have pc case that can support it). Razer Kraken - who knows, maybe it will be good for you, maybe not. It's always a risk.
 
General rule is - if you're looking for cheap products, you must be very rich.
 

Please don't get the Kraken or any Razer product in general for real.. they all break like cardboards and are hugely overpriced for what they offer.
For headsets, I used to go with cheap headsets as well for many years and they all didn't last more than a single year so five years ago I decided to try to step up and grabbed a Sennheiser PC350 Special at something like 159€. I still use them daily and they are still perfect, even if I (unwillingly) tried to kill them many times in the past 5 years. I really suggest you to spend more on them if you want things that last.
 
For mouse, that's really hard to suggest because it depends on which size and shape you're comfortable with and if you want or need extra function buttons. I personally use a Corsair Sabre and can also suggest the Scimitar and Ironclaw from the same manifacturer. Or go with a Logitech which are really good as well, also in headsets.

As for a mouse, that is really a personal decision.  Just make sure that you can try it out first to check the fit of your hand.  There are a lot of different makes and models out there and all of them usually have an assortment of buttons on the side.  And then there is always a corded mouse as well as a cordless mouse.  I would suggest spending a few minutes in a Staples or Best Buy just to kill a few minutes to try one on for size.  Of course, don't spend your money there, just checking the fit.  They usually have an assortment of Logitech mice to also look at but when it comes time for your purchase, you can do that online at places like Newegg, Amazon, etc.
 
When it comes to a keyboard, basically the same information applies but with the addition of RGB lighting and stuff.  And then there is always the mechanical and membrane types of keyboards.  Will you be using your keyboard mainly for gaming or for more industrious types of work like school or work.  Keyboards are not a one time fits all sort of thing so you might want to try and "feel" them out as well.  My recent keyboard purchase was a Corsair K68 RGB.  I use my keyboard for both work and games and it appears to be doing just fine.  It is a mechanical keyboard and I like the tactile feel of the keys when typing.  My previous keyboard was a Logitech membrane and it didn't survive more than about a year or so.
 
Either way, good luck with your search.
 

I wish modern games allowed dropping a hard drive, but thank you!

Spared some money with a less expensive variant of the 1650 super, and a more affordable moherboard. Put the savings into faster ram, better SSD, better PSU:
PCPartPicker Part List Type Item Price CPU AMD Ryzen 5 2600 3.4 GHz 6-Core Processor £112.28 @ Senetic Motherboard ASRock B450M Pro4-F Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard £64.97 @ CCL Computers Memory Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory £71.58 @ Aria PC Storage Gigabyte 240 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive £41.86 @ CCL Computers Storage Seagate Barracuda Compute 2 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive £52.22 @ CCL Computers Video Card MSI GeForce GTX 1650 SUPER 4 GB Ventus XS OC Video Card £170.79 @ CCL Computers Power Supply be quiet! System Power 9 500 W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply £52.99 @ CCL Computers   Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts     Total £566.69   Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-04-05 19:22 BST+0100    

I wish modern games allowed dropping a hard drive, but thank you!

If you were to drop the hard drive, you can afford a better gpu:
 
PCPartPicker Part List Type Item Price CPU AMD Ryzen 5 2600 3.4 GHz 6-Core Processor £112.28 @ Senetic Motherboard ASRock B450M Pro4-F Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard £64.97 @ CCL Computers Memory Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory £71.58 @ Aria PC Storage Western Digital Blue 500 GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive £61.03 @ Currys PC World Business Video Card EVGA GeForce GTX 1660 SUPER 6 GB SC ULTRA GAMING Video Card £245.02 @ CCL Computers Power Supply be quiet! System Power 9 500 W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply £52.99 @ CCL Computers   Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts     Total £607.87   Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-04-05 19:25 BST+0100    

Yeah any hobby gets better with time, plus I find it fun to watch lots of reviews of things like motherboards

It goes 80+, bronze, silver, gold, platinum.  (Titanium is either before or afte platinum I think) Silver has become quite rare.  It’s how efficient the PSU is on idle.  Does not affect how reliable the PSU is.  80+ is the legal minimum and tends to denote a cheapass PSU though.

Just the 1660 super I added. It's like a 1660 ti for a little more cost than a 1660.

You can check both in several ways. For example using HWmonitor or HWiNFO. Or with MSI Afterburner. Or many other monitoring software.

Thank you, I'll give it alook