jsdsparky

Very cool!

Why are we still calling display latency "input lag"? I get that it adds to the delay between your input and when you see its effect on-screen, but it does NOT affect the delay between your input and when it is registered by your PC/console. For example, in multiplayer games, the display latency doesn't affect when your input gets sent to the server to determine if you got the kill or not. It's really just OUTPUT LAG. It doesn't affect what happens -- just how long it takes for you to see what just happened.

RAM wouldn't cause your fps to be so low.
 
All correct drivers installed?

Here's the link to the article
 
Other than being "sensational" and "exaggerated" (no surprise there coming from tweak town) it is true and it is finally happening. The difficulty of mining Etherium went up by a lot, and it's price went down, so, without being dead, it's not as worth it to mine anymore. If the difficulty keeps on rising, expect to see a lot of video cards flood the used market. Also, this is too bad for companies like MSI and Asus who were building "Mining gpus" that didnt come out in time...

What do you want to do with your PC? And how much do you have to spend on it?

the 1800x is just a factory OCd 1700, you can easily exceed it with a 1700 and a little research into OCing ryzen, better to use that money elsewhere

I'll definitely look into the strix card. Thanks! 

But @Dreaper said they don't stream much, so they should at least consider a 1600, seeing as it is ~$90 cheaper and will give similar gaming performance. 

Don't use "thermal paste alternatives" unless you can afford to lose the rig. It's better to wait and have a working rig at the end of the day rather than having a working rig for a few hours until it bites the dust and you're left with a paperweight. 

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 1600 3.2GHz 6-Core Processor  ($195.69 @ SuperBiiz) stock cooler's good for a 3.8-3.9ghz oc.
Motherboard: MSI - B350M PRO-VDH Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard  ($74.99 @ B&H) 
Memory: Team - Dark 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory  ($114.99 @ Newegg) 
Storage: SK hynix - SL308 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive  ($87.88 @ OutletPC) 
Storage: Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive  ($48.44 @ OutletPC) 
Video Card: Gigabyte - GeForce GTX 1080 8GB WINDFORCE OC 8G Video Card  ($499.99 @ Amazon) 
Case: Fractal Design - Focus G Mini (Black) MicroATX Mini Tower Case  ($49.99 @ NCIX US) 
Power Supply: SeaSonic - G 550W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply  ($52.14 @ NCIX US) 
Monitor: Dell - S2417DG 23.8" 2560x1440 165Hz Monitor  ($376.47 @ Amazon) 
Total: $1500.58
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-06-20 02:59 EDT-0400

TBH, the higher core clock of a Ryzen 1600X or an overclocked 1600 is going to perform better in all the mentioned use cases (due to less of a need for more cores). You can save some money there to stay under budget, and still get that sweet GTX 1080.

I went 50$ over budget, but managed to squeeze in a better cpu and graphics card. Overkill for 1080p, but in case of a potential 4k monitor in the future, you are at least already properly equipped . I opted for components I have mostly good experiences building systems with. Ram is higher clocked, and the build itself looks overall better However you decide, have fun building buddy
 
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: AMD - Ryzen 7 1700 3.0GHz 8-Core Processor  ($296.71 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Asus - PRIME B350-PLUS ATX AM4 Motherboard  ($96.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory  ($135.88 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Samsung - 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive  ($99.99 @ B&H)
Storage: Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive  ($48.44 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Gigabyte - GeForce GTX 1080 8GB WINDFORCE OC 8G Video Card  ($499.99 @ Amazon)
Case: NZXT - S340 Elite (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case  ($98.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: Corsair - RMx 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply  ($89.99 @ Newegg)
Wireless Network Adapter: Gigabyte - GC-WB867D-I PCI-Express x1 802.11a/b/g/n/ac Wi-Fi Adapter  ($36.00 @ B&H)
Monitor: LG - 27MP58VQ-P 27.0" 1920x1080 60Hz Monitor  ($154.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $1557.97
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-06-20 02:22 EDT-0400

His system has an identity and if it wishes for a ... would it be a sex change? ... new body, it isn't your business!
 

You'll be fine

just put the pc in a tub of water, budget water cooling 

What is the monitor connected to? If you have a graphics card that is overclocked too far, this can happen. I wailed try to connect it to another device in order to determine if the issue is with the monitor or the device.

It looks good for 1080p gaming. Do you have a case? The only thing I'd recommend is an SSD, but you can add that later on.

Either of the two mentioned above or the Phanteks Enthoo Evolv. All are great cases and pretty popular at the moment.
 

Hum... if i recall correctly 2666Mhz came after several BIOS updates. If it's listed on you MoBo compatibility list, i'd rather test a BIOS update before even attempt to set said clocks. It should work after that. 

Have you tried resetting the CMOS? The position of the jumper on your motherboard should be in the manual. Power off the system, switch the PSU to off, connect the jumper leads for a few seconds, then disconnect them. Then, turn the PSU back on, and see if you can POST. Resetting the CMOS will completely reset all the BIOS settings to default.

Sorry man, but it looks like 3.7 is the sweet spot and everyone knows what to do with the sweet spot.

I personally would leave it at 3.8Ghz and 2800Mhz RAM if that is fixing the problem, For that extra 200Mhz on ram wouldn't be that noticeable IRL situations anyway.
I have that same board as you and my 1700 runs stable at 3.9Ghz now with my RAM actually faster than advertised at 3066Mhz, but up until 2.6 BIOS wouldn't go over 2667 no matter what I tried. There really isn't much difference in real life at all and there's no point stressing over it IMO. If you like tinkering with it, continue to experiment until you're happy with it, but if not leave it at 3.8 and 2800 as long as it's POSTing after a restart etc.
 
There is a SOC voltage, but you can't access those settings on this board, you can change it in ryzen master software if you really need to, but I didn't notice any difference personally between having the SOC at stock and 1.2V, in fact the RAM settings were MORE likely to not take and would end up at stock settings for ram no matter what is set in ryzen master software. I personally don't like doing it that way anyway, have always been adjusting in the BIOS/UEFI for a very long time.

Mmm, there doesn't seem to be a SOC voltage ...
This is getting out of my league, but I'd suggest this thread (both the video and the exchanges with Wendell below) to see if you can get your RAM to work at higher speeds, even if not exactly at the XMP advertised settings:
https://forum.level1techs.com/t/maximize-ryzen-overclock-ram-for-faster-fabric-speed-level-one-techs/114745

Well, I'm not familiar enough with Ryzen, but given those symptoms, I would look for additional voltages to play with, wither something like CPU-NB or similar (I seem to remember there is a "SOC voltage" in Ryzen, but I don't know what it does).
Maybe  you can make a roundup of available voltages to tweak in your BIOS?

Yes, I'm using the latest bios available. The newest version (2.60) was released on June 9th, just 4 days ago.