TheArmChairGuru

I think he means the connector on the HD is gone, if that is the case and you need the data from that drive, find a PC specialist in your area !
I can do that sort of thing for instance, but I would have to have a similar drive and be able to remove the HD controller board from the drive and replace it with a similar one... and even then I would only recommend you do this in order to get the data off the drive.
Do not keep using the drive in that type of configuration, you're asking for more trouble than it's worth.

I agree, best bet is to find a low cost replacement board on craigslist or ebay.

I fail to see how a 6700k and a 1070 fail at 1440p streaming !
I use an FX-8320 and a 970 and stream at 1440 on twitch and record at downsampled 1080.
 
Now I can't do both at once and still game effectively, but gaming and one of those is flawless.
If you can't stream nicely with a 6700k and 1070 (if thats what you have), then something else could be an issue.
 
imho

Not really.Sorry. That board is bricked.

Suggestions: (and taking into consideration you actually want to stay in this home or increase it's resale value)
If you are doing a stud-out renovation (replacing wall boards, etc.) then you should definitely consider Cat 7 wiring to each of the bedrooms, the family room, the garage and the kitchen.
Now the arguments come.... "why would you want to blah blah blah".
For the answer... if you are removing wall boards anyway, just do it, you never know what you or the next homeowner may want or need for internet usage.
Bedrooms....given, family room,...given, but garage ?  Garage may be used at a later date for internet enabled smart home devices, garage doors, who knows, but it will have a connection if you don't want wireless security to be an issue.
But why my kitchen ? Usage now or later for internet enabled smart home devices such as say, a refrigerator that has ordering capabilities.
Yes but I can do all that wirelessly !
Yes you can but you said you were doing a renovation, so as I said, *IF* it's a stud-out renovation, just do it.
 
If you aren't tearing up wallboards, run a line to where ever the TV will be for a smart tv and be done with it, maybe add a couple of wireless access points at the opposite end of the house from where ever the wireless router is located.
 
If you have a basement it's Uber easy; I do and I wired all the bedrooms in the house running the cables through the basement into a first floor built-in cabinet that serves as the hide for the switch and networking gear.
 
Good luck, good scores, rock on !

Suggestions: (and taking into consideration you actually want to stay in this home or increase it's resale value)
If you are doing a stud-out renovation (replacing wall boards, etc.) then you should definitely consider Cat 7 wiring to each of the bedrooms, the family room, the garage and the kitchen.
Now the arguments come.... "why would you want to blah blah blah".
For the answer... if you are removing wall boards anyway, just do it, you never know what you or the next homeowner may want or need for internet usage.
Bedrooms....given, family room,...given, but garage ?  Garage may be used at a later date for internet enabled smart home devices, garage doors, who knows, but it will have a connection if you don't want wireless security to be an issue.
But why my kitchen ? Usage now or later for internet enabled smart home devices such as say, a refrigerator that has ordering capabilities.
Yes but I can do all that wirelessly !
Yes you can but you said you were doing a renovation, so as I said, *IF* it's a stud-out renovation, just do it.
 
If you aren't tearing up wallboards, run a line to where ever the TV will be for a smart tv and be done with it, maybe add a couple of wireless access points at the opposite end of the house from where ever the wireless router is located.
 
If you have a basement it's Uber easy; I do and I wired all the bedrooms in the house running the cables through the basement into a first floor built-in cabinet that serves as the hide for the switch and networking gear.
 
Good luck, good scores, rock on !

So, instead of bickering about how you can get 2% more performance from one vendor or another, i'll attempt an answer.
If you want to buy a card now, go for it, it will last you for years at 60 fps.
Have you, in the past, had good luck with a specific vendor such as team red or team green ?
Then by all means, buy a card from that vendor, either one will do pretty much the same thing, which is to say, display your video.
All other arguments are invalid because you said you wanted 60fps...
not 60 fps in a specific game or on a specific monitor or with a specific driver or setup or game or engine or ....omg who cares.
 
If you have the money and want to upgrade, pick your fav team and get one  

Perfectly fine PSU from a well known supplier.
Will it work ?  yes
Will it work for 10 years ?  who knows
If it fits your budget, go for it.
You can always upgrade later and save that one for a test / bench unit or your little brothers PC build.
 
If you don't have a little brother, you can always add it to the stack of woe in the corner like the rest of us.
 
Why am I rambling on.....

At what temperature is your CPU operating ?
You say it seems as though when your CPU works harder it shuts down...
That could be a PSU issue but it seems to me it could also be your CPU going into thermal shutdown.
 
How old is the PC ?  did you build it yourself or storebought ? Do you know for sure that the CPU heatsink is attached properly and with a good thermal compound ? What type of CPU cooler do you use ?  is it an air cooler or liquid cooler ?

ISP is definitely the issue. Read the news lately about bandwidth issues and the ISP / content provider battles.
 
Basically content provider (i.e- Youtube) says we're just providing content
ISP says you're hogging all our bandwidth streaming
Provider says so what, we don't choose the content, the subscriber does
ISP says ok, pay us more money to stream your content
Provider laughs so hard they fall out of their chairs
ISP laughs and throttles (caps) all connections coming from any IP address associated with provider during peak hours ( at least right now)
 
ALL THAT BS leads to the subscribers (you, I and millions of other youtube viewers) suffering from poor video, low resolution and hunger due to waiting for videos to load and not going to get something to eat.
 
wait, maybe that's only me....

When you sit the laptop on your lap, does your leg / pants cover the vent holes on the underside of the case ?
If so, the cooling fan can't get the air necessary to cool the cpu and it overheats.
 
Get a laptop cooling pad:
1- it stops that particular problem
2- it gives your laptop a stable place to sit on your lap
3- put stick-ons on it, makes it look cooler and chicks dig personality
4- chicks will dig your cooling pad
5- chicks will dig you
6- you will be famous
7- not really but you laughed, so go get a cooling pad now

Sounds like you have a very specific need.
You could probably do what you asked for yourself and end up with what you want especially for your budget.
https://pcpartpicker.com/ will get you started.
 
For your needs I would start with the case first and go from there.
Pc part picker also helps with initial compatibility, it let's you know if something is incompatible.

If you have room, always put as many cable extras / ends as you can behind the MB.
Run your CPU power cable behind the board and back thru at the top and plug it in when you install the MB.
If you have no other choice for cables, use wire ties , etc to bind the cables together to keep them contained at least.
 
This suggestion is minimal but it's one of those 'you just never know' situations....I try to never put any power cables nearby any signaling hardware. So your running a CPU power cable right by the NIC placement makes me shudder.
As I said, you may never see a problem... but there's that one time when you just cant figure out why your network seems slow and it's because you might have signal interference.
 
As for the CPU Cooler, I agree that you should reverse the fan *IF* it is blowing thru the cooler as the picture shows from back to front.
If it is in a pull configuration and it is pulling air thru and blowing towards the rear case fan, then all is well
 
Rating ?
Not going to give you one. But as far as the build quality, well done.
Why ?
Because the fact that you built it shows your interest.
Take constructive tips at heart, learn more, use what you've learned, build another one, learn more, etc.
 
You'll do fine
Rock on

Right click on your desktop
Navigate to new > shortcut
In that new dialog box, navigate (browse) to the skype folder on your PC and select the skype executable
Create the shortcut on your desktop
 
Right click on the shortcut, go to properties
After the 'target', type  /secondary  (make sure there's a space after the " at the end of the target path)
i.e:   ....skype.exe" /secondary
 
Click apply, click OK
 
Navigate to:
C:\ProgramData\Microsoft\Windows\Start Menu\Programs
 
Drag the shortcut you made on the desktop into that folder in the appropriate place and it should show up on the all apps menu.

PSUs are rated for capacity, not working load.
That 500w may work fine with the old card but the new one may tax it too much, just a guess though.

Generally you shouldn't worry, but here are some facts, feel free to google the subjects for yourself (I do):
 
CPU
AMD cpu will generally run on the hotter side compared to intel, but are more inexpensive (I use a liquid cooler on mine but only due to preference, and it's an AMD)
Intel architecture is generally faster when gaming, but you're not going to notice it with the naked eye, especially paired with a GPU as it takes most of the workload.
 
GPU
Years ago (even just a few) it mattered, now it doesn't, just pick one you like and maybe has the color scheme you want to go with your build.
As for what range, pick what you can afford out of the newer models, because newer architecture is better than older.
 
Just build it, probably won't be your last build if you want to build one in the first place.
Enjoy it, because lots of joy (and heartache from troubleshooting) are on the way.
 

Try a known good power supply, other than the current one that's in the machine.
Make sure it has enough juice to run his machine properly.
If it boots fine, it's the PSU.
If it doesn't, then his PSU is probably ok.
At that point, you can start worrying about whether or not it's the cpu or board.
If you have a compatible cpu laying around, swap it, if it doesn't work.. could be the board is bad, etc.
If you don't have a cpu to swap... do you have a different board to try his ?
 
Everything with a situation like this is a process of elimination.
Determine what it isn't, and you'll find what it is.

Use a windows startup disk for windows 7
Get to the load menu and choose repair computer (or whatever it is)
Choose the OS when it finds it
Choose the option for the command line (CMD) (don't be scared, it's easy...)
when you get to the command line window, type in the following one line at a time exactly as you see it, press enter and wait until you have a prompt and can type the next line:
 
bootrec.exe /fixmbr                   (press enter and wait)
bootsect.exe /nt60 all /force     (press enter and wait)
bootrec.exe /rebuildbcd            (press enter and wait)
 
That will fix your master boot record for win 7 and allow you to boot back into it.
After that, feel free to upgrade to Microsloth win 10

Try this: right-click on the desktop and choose View and then make sure Show desktop icons is checked.