ajgamer1

personally would go with the dac x6 much cheaper than the fulla 2 and slightly better dac implementation.   And for what you want the dac x6 does have a little bit of bass roll off but keeps the highs. Not by much though. If you want to kill the bass you can just eq. It but I'm super against eqing the highs up as the DT 990's highs a more than sharp enough. You would probably kill your ears if you do any sharper
 
 
But out of all 3 I would say my setup is the best as as the liquid spark just smooths out the highs , doesn't kill them but makes it smoother and gives me more bass as it's a much more powerful amp.

I use a liquid spark and a topping d10 to power mine. But a fx audio dac x6 should be more than enough. The fulla 2 should be ok

Hello, I am making this thread because I am experiencing low FPS in R6 with a great computer. My main parts are a 9900k in pair with an ASUS ROG Maximus XI Hero with a NVDIA Gtx 1080ti FTW3 Elite with 16gb of ram clocked at 3200mhz. Nothing is overclocked, which to my thinking I thought would be a great pc for R6 as I did have the cpu bug before when I had the 8700k (cpu bug is when your cpu is at 100% usage while playing R6). On average I get 170-190 fps and sometimes as low as 140-150 fps. Which for me is unacceptable because I play on a 240hz panel at 1080p. Any help? Thank you in advanced. Full list of specs here:
PCPartPicker Part List
CPU: Intel - Core i9-9900K 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor  (Purchased For $500.00) 
CPU Cooler: NZXT - Kraken X62 Rev 2 98.17 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler  (Purchased For $170.37) 
Motherboard: Asus - ROG MAXIMUS XI HERO (WI-FI) ATX LGA1151 Motherboard  (Purchased For $285.00) 
Memory: G.Skill - Trident Z RGB 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory  (Purchased For $115.00) 
Storage: Samsung - 970 Evo 250 GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive  (Purchased For $105.38) 
Storage: Samsung - 860 Evo 500 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive  (Purchased For $80.00) 
Storage: Western Digital - BLACK SERIES 2 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive  (Purchased For $110.37) 
Video Card: EVGA - GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11 GB FTW3 ELITE GAMING Video Card  (Purchased For $849.00) 
Case: Phanteks - P400S ATX Mid Tower Case  (Purchased For $79.58) 
Power Supply: EVGA - SuperNOVA G3 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply  (Purchased For $85.00) 
Case Fan: Corsair - Air Series AF140 Quiet Edition 67.8 CFM 140 mm Fan  (Purchased For $19.48) 
Case Fan: Corsair - Air Series AF140 Quiet Edition 67.8 CFM 140 mm Fan  (Purchased For $19.48) 
Case Fan: Corsair - Air Series AF120 Quiet Edition 39.88 CFM 120 mm Fan  (Purchased For $12.21) 
Case Fan: Corsair - Air Series AF120 Quiet Edition 39.88 CFM 120 mm Fan  (Purchased For $12.21) 
Total: $2443.08
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-07-01 04:03 EDT-0400
 

Hello, I am making this thread because I am experiencing low FPS in R6 (Rainbow Six Siege). Before hand I had an 8700k and a 1080ti then I got the cpu bug (where the game throttles your cpu to 100% usage) so I decided to upgrade. Now I have the 9900k and 1080ti and I still get the same frame rate as before with the 8700k. On average I get around 180 sometimes 150 to 140 FPS. I no longer have the cpu bug, but getting frames like that while using a 240hz monitor is unacceptable for me. I play on all low besides my shadows being on medium and my LOD being on very high. Nothing is overclocked and I even reinstalled windows thinking it may have been the issue. No change, any help? Thank you in advanced. Full List of PC specs:
PCPartPicker Part List
CPU: Intel - Core i9-9900K 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor  (Purchased For $500.00) 
CPU Cooler: NZXT - Kraken X62 Rev 2 98.17 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler  (Purchased For $170.37) 
Motherboard: Asus - ROG MAXIMUS XI HERO (WI-FI) ATX LGA1151 Motherboard  (Purchased For $285.00) 
Memory: G.Skill - Trident Z RGB 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory  (Purchased For $115.00) 
Storage: Samsung - 970 Evo 250 GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive  (Purchased For $105.38) 
Storage: Samsung - 860 Evo 500 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive  (Purchased For $80.00) 
Storage: Western Digital - BLACK SERIES 2 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive  (Purchased For $110.37) 
Video Card: EVGA - GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11 GB FTW3 ELITE GAMING Video Card  (Purchased For $849.00) 
Case: Phanteks - P400S ATX Mid Tower Case  (Purchased For $79.58) 
Power Supply: EVGA - SuperNOVA G3 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply  (Purchased For $85.00) 
Case Fan: Corsair - Air Series AF140 Quiet Edition 67.8 CFM 140 mm Fan  (Purchased For $19.48) 
Case Fan: Corsair - Air Series AF140 Quiet Edition 67.8 CFM 140 mm Fan  (Purchased For $19.48) 
Case Fan: Corsair - Air Series AF120 Quiet Edition 39.88 CFM 120 mm Fan  (Purchased For $12.21) 
Case Fan: Corsair - Air Series AF120 Quiet Edition 39.88 CFM 120 mm Fan  (Purchased For $12.21) 
Total: $2443.08
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-07-01 04:03 EDT-0400

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 2600 3.4 GHz 6-Core Processor  (₹17999.00 @ Amazon India) 
Motherboard: Gigabyte - X470 AORUS GAMING 5 WIFI ATX AM4 Motherboard  (₹22200.00 @ Amazon India) 
Memory: G.Skill - Trident Z RGB 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory  (₹14800.00) 
Storage: Kingston - A400 120 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive  (Purchased For ₹0.00) 
Storage: Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive  (Purchased For ₹0.00) 
Video Card: Asus - GeForce GTX 1060 3GB 3 GB Dual Video Card  (Purchased For ₹0.00) 
Case: Fractal Design - Focus G (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case  (₹12264.00 @ Amazon India) 
Power Supply: Corsair - 750 W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply  (Purchased For ₹0.00) 
Total: ₹67263.00
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-12-16 18:08 IST+0530

Get the UPS battery replaced.

Most days yes.
 
Good luck, don't forget to check your temperatures before and after so you can see if the limiting the turbo is worth it.

In intel extreme tuning utility, you should be able to change all of the turbo ratios to 34. That will prevent the chip going past that speed under any circumstance, but it may depend on what functionality your motherboard exposes.
 
However, it's worth noting that a this will have a negligible effect on your temperatures, but may have a noticeable effect on single threaded or "bursty" applications. The reason is, frequency is a purely linear increase in heat output. Your temperatures now are with all cores at 3400 and fully loaded. Three cores at 3500, two at 3600 or one at 3800 will all use less power, and generate less heat, than 4 cores at 3400.
 
Therefore, your maximum temperatures under combined CPU and GPU load are not going to change even if you change your turbo boost profiles - unless you dropped it below 3.4.
 
It's why the turbo boost system is designed this way - even if you were heavily thermally constrained, you may still be able to boost to 3.8ghz on one core, because that will still be less heat output than two or more cores, even if they are running at a slower speed. This is almost universally true across all speed bins, so making the above change is only going to hurt your performance without impacting your temperatures.
 
You are correct that higher temperatures result in a lower life for your processor, in general. However, that's why all processors have a maximum die temperature they can safely run at - Intel is basically promising that so long as the chip (7700HQ in your case) doesn't go over 100C, it will have no reduced lifespan. That's why even at 95C it's still turbo boosting to the maximum available amount, instead of slowing down the CPU base speed of 2.8GHz. The specific figure is called "Tjunction" on the Ark page, and when it reaches this temperature the CPU will automatically slow down to keep from exceeding it. Intel basically guarantees that with 45W of cooling, the CPU can reach and sustain 2.8GHz at 100C or less. 
 
The only issue is that in laptops, the total cooling capacity of the heatsink is shared between many components that all generate heat, and so your temperatures, even though they are safe, will be higher when stressing more of your system at the same time.

It's possible, but not as likely as the explanation that pushing both CPU and GPU load at once is pushing the limits of your thermal mass (heatsink/fan assembly), and it gets that hot during games because games are stressing both of the hottest components in your machine at the same time.
 
If a game only has one or two threads, you may see your cpu go above 3.4ghz if temperature and power limits allow. By undervolting, you have allowed the chip to reach higher speeds using less power, which is a net gain in performance in all situations - so long as the undervolt is stable.
 
The short answer is: you don't have to worry that your CPU and GPU get hot under full load. It is not throttling unless the speed drops below 2.8GHz; 3.4GHz isn't the base clock for your chip, so it's running cool enough to fully max out it's all-core boost profile. 
 
If your temperatures under full load (CPU and GPU) start to push to 100C, your CPU speed will drop incrementally until an equilibrium is reached. 
 
Just to clarify again: Your CPU is not throttling; it's working exactly as designed. It's just not always easy to explain it when intel markets it as "up to 3.8GHz", which is technically not wrong, but needs the explanation that it's only valid on one core, when power and thermals allow.

3.4ghz is the max boost speed for his processor when all cores are loaded. It's not unlocked, so motherboard features that enable all-core boosts won't work.
 
It has nothing to do with his undervolt - if anything, the undervolt has likely dramatically reduced the heat output of the cpu, and will give better performance under mixed loads.

The stress test only stresses the CPU; when gaming you are using both the CPU and GPU, so both are pumping heat out and need to be cooled. The heat dissipation capacity of your cooling system is a constant, so if you suddenly have two heat loads running at the same time (CPU and GPU), the temperatures will inevitably go up.
 
95C is below throttle point for your CPU; it may be considered high, but the chip is rated for it.

This is normal mate - the maximum turbo speed listed on the Intel Ark is for 1 core active - if you look at your first picture, you can see that it says 1 core active x38, 2 cores is x36, three is x35 and 4 is x34. The stress test pushes all 4 cores, so it's only capable of turbo boosting to 3.4GHz in that kind of situation.
 
 

So let me get this straight, you're undervolting a locked Processer and wondering why it's no longer reaching it's maximum turbo speed. 

The BIOS. Windows updates are important for security and other reasons.
 
The BIOS updates will sometimes also include important security measures, in that case it is necessary, but they do rarely happens.
 
The reason I say it's unnecessary to update the BIOS unless there is significant reason is because there is a risk you take when flashing, if the process is interrupted you may render your motherboard unusable. This is very rare but it is a risk 

I think the assisted technologies upgrade is still available for free. I would (and did) upgrade.
 
Your hardware is still very new and relevant, no worries about compatibility.
 
In general you only bother updating BIOS if it's giving you problems or there are significant updates in the next version. No need to change any settings 

My man I said there's no need to update if you don't have problems - which you don't. 
 
I also said I would upgrade to W10 in your case... Not the BIOS

Oh god M50Xs are terrible headphones

Im not sure how things work for india but maybe if you got some on amazon and tried them then you can return them straight after if you dont like them ? its a shame audiotechnica doesnt have any stores to try them out at

I'm Using m50x and they are very reliable and still going strong with excellent sound quality, Cant speak for the m40x and m30x but overall impression of audiotechnica is very positive !

I prefer the clicky tactile feedback of the Blues, as opposed to the non-clicky tactile feedback of the Browns. And I dislike the linear switches, like Reds.
 
My main usage is typing, gaming is kind off a secondary usage. If I do play games with a keyboard it is kindly.. well I basically only play Skyrim nowadays with a keyboard.

I myself use a Coolermaster Masterkeys Pro S RGB, with Cherry MX Browns. I would have rather gone with the same board, but with Blue switches; but that wasn't available at my time of purchase.
It's similar to the Masterkey Pro L, except the L has a better cable management option compared to the S.

To be honest, I don't have personal experiences with either of these brand's service department (and I do have some Kingston and Coolermaster products), but that is mainly because neither of their stuff ever broke on me.
From what I see online, both their service departments are very good, but that is mainly judging off the experience here in Western Europe (Where I know Coolermaster is located, not sure where Kingston does their business from).
 
Nothing to complain about with their firmware and the software is not even comparable to Kingston's software, since the software is mostly used for RGB lighting.
Compared to Razer and Corsair the Coolermaster software experience is less, since those two previously mentioned companies have a lot more RGB effect options. But I personally have a couple of profiles with colored keys, nothing more. Something I set up not using the software on my PC at all, just on the keyboard itself. So even if I took the keyboard with me to whatever computer, everything in terms of customization would still be present.
 
If you would ask me of the two you mentioned, which I would take: it would be the Coolermaster any day of the week, but that is just because I very much dislike Cherry MX Red switches. But choosing the HyperX Alloy with Browns vs. Masterkeys with Browns.. It comes down to the design and light options.
The HyperX Alloy has a floating keycap design which would be easier to clean and it has a more sturdy base. The Masterkeys however has a built in cablemanagement feature and RGB lighting. The Masterkeys also has built in buttons to easily switch from one profile to another, but the Alloy on the other hand has a 'Windows key' that actually has the Windows logo on it, rather than the Masterkeys with the Coolermaster logo there. I changed out the keycaps, so it doesn't bother me anymore, but it was something I found.. I guess annoying.
 
But if you're looking for other models, the Ducky Shine 6 would also be an option. Similar to the Coolermaster keyboard though.
 

I use corsair k95 rgb platinum with mx speed , but before that logitech g410 (cheap)

Alloy fps with cherry MX red for gaming, if u work with that take browns (i've tried browns, reds, speeds, romer g)

yeah but the point is to tell you that not only the color of the switch is important, i play the same games as you and the romer g from logitech seemed to me the best option quality/price but now i've tried that key frame I rather to pick a red switch with a frame like that than a logitech.