Dackzy

Got a new phone and tablet, plus a really nice Mizunara finished Cognac

yeah no the logitech will be way worse. A cheap pair of monitors would be JBL LSR 305P, you might want to pair them with a sub if you sit far away and I mean a sub not some small cheap rattle box that can't really reproduce quality bass at all. You might also want to look at the passive market, maybe the used market for a receiver, 2 bookshelf speakers and a sub or look new if your budget allows for that.

Okay guys I have seen a lot of people on here is starting to wanting to buy amps and dacs and let me just explain to you guys why you need one and why you don't need one. This is going to be very basic and generalised.
 
Reasons to get a DAC.
 
1. Noise in your sound
2. Your onboard makes the sound warm or cold sounding
3. Over all low quality sound coming from your onboard
4. Can look nice
5. You want more detail and higher audio quality
 
Reasons to NOT get a DAC.
 
1. No noise.
2. No coloring in your onboard.
3. You already have "transparent" sound. ( kinda the same as Nr. 2)
4. Takes up space.
5. You will need to buy an amp.
 
Reasons to get a amp.
 
1. You can't power your headphones. (your headphones don't get loud enough)
2. Your headphones sound muddy only at that pc (kinda the same as Nr. 1)
3. Can look nice.
4. You want to try tube sound. (they get really hot, so do NOT touch them.)
5. You want better audio quality (though keep in mind that if your source is bad then it won't suddenly sound good with a better amp)
6. Less noise
 
Reasons to NOT get a amp.
 
1. You can power your headphones.
2. Takes up space.
 
Most motherboards on the market to day can power 90%-95% of all the headphones on the market. A DAC and amp will not make your headphones a lot better if you already have "transparent" sound and they are powered properly, they can bring out more detail and overall better audio quality, but I wouldn't recommend getting a DAC and amp if you don't have good headphones, I would rather recommend that you save the money and get better headphones, expecially if you are unhappy by the sound you have in your headphones, because no DAC and amp is suddenly going to do any major change the signature of your headphones.
 
Ohm does not say if your headphones are hard to drive or not.
 
You can have 600 Ohm headphones that are easier to drive than 32 Ohm headphones. It is the sensitivity and efficiency that matters the most.
A very quick exsample of this would be the K612 and the HE 560. The K612 has a ohm rating of 120 Ohm and a sensitivity rating of 101 SPL/V, while the HE 560 has a Ohm rating of 45 Ohm and a efficiency rating of 90 SPL/mW. Using a online calculator we get these results, which shows that the HE 560 will need more power than the K612, despite the K612 having a Ohm rating that is almost three times higher than the HE 560's.
I used this website to calculate the power needed http://www.digizoid.com/headphones-power.html
 
Wnat to know how much power your headphones need and the math behind it? Look here
 
Different explanations (keeping it simple)
 
Before you go buy an amp for some headphones you just orded wait get the headphones and test them with your onboard before you go spend money on a amp.
Before you go buy an DAC amp combo, if you already has transparent sound and you have nothing wrong with your onboard DAC then you will not notice a difference between your onboard and a DAC and if you buy an DAC you will need an amp.
 
Remember sound is not black and white like some people say it is, there are more to sound than just specs.
 
Only look down here if you really need an DAC and amp or just an amp
 
Why get anything else than the cheap products?
What is a DAP? (Digital Audio Player)
 
I have used amazon.de and amazon.com for every product that is not from Schiit where I used their own webshop
 
Before looking at tube amps
A tube amp is best with headphones that have a high impedance because it is there they have their power, while a normal solid state amp normally has the most power in the lower ohms. I highly recommend not getting a tube amp for let's say 35 Ohm headphones, but rather a tube hybrid amp which is a mix of a tube and solid state amp, you get the sound of tubes while still having the power in the lower Ohms and having a lower output impedance.
 
My recommendations for desktop amps:
 
My recommendations for desktop DACs:
 
My recommendations for desktop Combos:
 
My recommendations for small Combos that run on usb only:
 
My recommendations for DAPs (Digital audio players)
 
Where do I buy schiit in EU?
http://www.schiit-europe.com/
http://schiit.eu.com/   (UK)

Where do I buy Soekris?
https://www.modhouseaudio.com/ (USA)
http://www.soekris.eu/shop/index.php (EU)
 
 
Lastly if you have interference look at this guide SSL has made.
 
If you have suggestions about gear and explanations.
If you have some gear that you would like to see added then there are 4 options.
 
Comment the gear you would like to see added and why or send me a PM, I will then look into it very thoroughly when I have time and if I find it worthy, then it will be added. Often I will get a loaner unit and test it.
 
If you want a explanation to something, then comment what you would like explained or send me a PM and then I will look into it.
 
FEEL FREE TO ASK ME ANYTHING ABOUT THIS POST
Remember there are no stupid questions, I am here to help.
I hope that this post helped you and cleared some things up for you 

My list was made with the people in mind that think they would get a benefit from running stuff like M50x and other bad headphones out of something better than a modern motherboard, when in reality it would make more sense to just invest in better headphones.
Yes you would clearly benefit from a DAC and an amp, what is your budget?

My list was made with the people in mind that think they would get a benefit from running stuff like M50x and other bad headphones out of something better than a modern motherboard, when in reality it would make more sense to just invest in better headphones.
Yes you would clearly benefit from a DAC and an amp, what is your budget?

it sounds fake as fuck, it isn't even funny, you can hear the whole tonality get this very very artificial sound to it, it is nasty.

I could NEVER get myself buy that, even when it runs normal stereo it is at best meh.

Don't get the K7XX it is super boomy and grainy compared to other AKG headphones, like K612, K702, K712 (which are all better headphones). They all have a fairly wide soundstage and decent imaging. The impedance doesn't say if you need an amp or not, like the Hifiman HE 6 is a 50 Ohm headphone, but they require you to have a speaker amp to power them or a very powerful headphone amp. You should worry a lot more about the sensitivity/efficiency aka dB/mW or dB/V, since that is really what makes a headphone hard to power or easy to power.

I mean I am a old FPS player so I am used to that more classic shape and I am more comfortable using such a shape. I wouldn't really say that any of my mice have ever require clamping outside of when I lift it. I have never liked the mice with a lot of buttons or weird shapes and the ones with pinky rest and such have always just felt weird to me.

well the last few pages are out of my control, I can't control what people write. The post is mainly for newbies, which means that I can't go too technical and need to keep it basic to not scare away people.
I try and keep my main post updated as much as possible with new DAC and amp recomenndations, but ofc I can't update it every time something new comes out.
I do agree that there could be cleaned up in some of the replies.
 
Ofc if you want gear added or a topic/term added then feel free to say so. 

Okay guys I have seen a lot of people on here is starting to wanting to buy amps and dacs and let me just explain to you guys why you need one and why you don't need one. This is going to be very basic and generalised.
 
Reasons to get a DAC.
 
1. Noise in your sound
2. Your onboard makes the sound warm or cold sounding
3. Over all low quality sound coming from your onboard
4. Can look nice
5. You want more detail and higher audio quality
 
Reasons to NOT get a DAC.
 
1. No noise.
2. No coloring in your onboard.
3. You already have "transparent" sound. ( kinda the same as Nr. 2)
4. Takes up space.
5. You will need to buy an amp.
 
Reasons to get a amp.
 
1. You can't power your headphones. (your headphones don't get loud enough)
2. Your headphones sound muddy only at that pc (kinda the same as Nr. 1)
3. Can look nice.
4. You want to try tube sound. (they get really hot, so do NOT touch them.)
5. You want better audio quality (though keep in mind that if your source is bad then it won't suddenly sound good with a better amp)
6. Less noise
 
Reasons to NOT get a amp.
 
1. You can power your headphones.
2. Takes up space.
 
Most motherboards on the market to day can power 90%-95% of all the headphones on the market. A DAC and amp will not make your headphones a lot better if you already have "transparent" sound and they are powered properly, they can bring out more detail and overall better audio quality, but I wouldn't recommend getting a DAC and amp if you don't have good headphones, I would rather recommend that you save the money and get better headphones, expecially if you are unhappy by the sound you have in your headphones, because no DAC and amp is suddenly going to do any major change the signature of your headphones.
 
Ohm does not say if your headphones are hard to drive or not.
 
You can have 600 Ohm headphones that are easier to drive than 32 Ohm headphones. It is the sensitivity and efficiency that matters the most.
A very quick exsample of this would be the K612 and the HE 560. The K612 has a ohm rating of 120 Ohm and a sensitivity rating of 101 SPL/V, while the HE 560 has a Ohm rating of 45 Ohm and a efficiency rating of 90 SPL/mW. Using a online calculator we get these results, which shows that the HE 560 will need more power than the K612, despite the K612 having a Ohm rating that is almost three times higher than the HE 560's.
I used this website to calculate the power needed http://www.digizoid.com/headphones-power.html
 
Wnat to know how much power your headphones need and the math behind it? Look here
 
Different explanations (keeping it simple)
 
Before you go buy an amp for some headphones you just orded wait get the headphones and test them with your onboard before you go spend money on a amp.
Before you go buy an DAC amp combo, if you already has transparent sound and you have nothing wrong with your onboard DAC then you will not notice a difference between your onboard and a DAC and if you buy an DAC you will need an amp.
 
Remember sound is not black and white like some people say it is, there are more to sound than just specs.
 
Only look down here if you really need an DAC and amp or just an amp
 
Why get anything else than the cheap products?
What is a DAP? (Digital Audio Player)
 
I have used amazon.de and amazon.com for every product that is not from Schiit where I used their own webshop
 
Before looking at tube amps
A tube amp is best with headphones that have a high impedance because it is there they have their power, while a normal solid state amp normally has the most power in the lower ohms. I highly recommend not getting a tube amp for let's say 35 Ohm headphones, but rather a tube hybrid amp which is a mix of a tube and solid state amp, you get the sound of tubes while still having the power in the lower Ohms and having a lower output impedance.
 
My recommendations for desktop amps:
 
My recommendations for desktop DACs:
 
My recommendations for desktop Combos:
 
My recommendations for small Combos that run on usb only:
 
My recommendations for DAPs (Digital audio players)
 
Where do I buy schiit in EU?
http://www.schiit-europe.com/
http://schiit.eu.com/   (UK)

Where do I buy Soekris?
https://www.modhouseaudio.com/ (USA)
http://www.soekris.eu/shop/index.php (EU)
 
 
Lastly if you have interference look at this guide SSL has made.
 
If you have suggestions about gear and explanations.
If you have some gear that you would like to see added then there are 4 options.
 
Comment the gear you would like to see added and why or send me a PM, I will then look into it very thoroughly when I have time and if I find it worthy, then it will be added. Often I will get a loaner unit and test it.
 
If you want a explanation to something, then comment what you would like explained or send me a PM and then I will look into it.
 
FEEL FREE TO ASK ME ANYTHING ABOUT THIS POST
Remember there are no stupid questions, I am here to help.
I hope that this post helped you and cleared some things up for you 

Okay guys I have seen a lot of people on here is starting to wanting to buy amps and dacs and let me just explain to you guys why you need one and why you don't need one. This is going to be very basic and generalised.
 
Reasons to get a DAC.
 
1. Noise in your sound
2. Your onboard makes the sound warm or cold sounding
3. Over all low quality sound coming from your onboard
4. Can look nice
5. You want more detail and higher audio quality
 
Reasons to NOT get a DAC.
 
1. No noise.
2. No coloring in your onboard.
3. You already have "transparent" sound. ( kinda the same as Nr. 2)
4. Takes up space.
5. You will need to buy an amp.
 
Reasons to get a amp.
 
1. You can't power your headphones. (your headphones don't get loud enough)
2. Your headphones sound muddy only at that pc (kinda the same as Nr. 1)
3. Can look nice.
4. You want to try tube sound. (they get really hot, so do NOT touch them.)
5. You want better audio quality (though keep in mind that if your source is bad then it won't suddenly sound good with a better amp)
6. Less noise
 
Reasons to NOT get a amp.
 
1. You can power your headphones.
2. Takes up space.
 
Most motherboards on the market to day can power 90%-95% of all the headphones on the market. A DAC and amp will not make your headphones a lot better if you already have "transparent" sound and they are powered properly, they can bring out more detail and overall better audio quality, but I wouldn't recommend getting a DAC and amp if you don't have good headphones, I would rather recommend that you save the money and get better headphones, expecially if you are unhappy by the sound you have in your headphones, because no DAC and amp is suddenly going to do any major change the signature of your headphones.
 
Ohm does not say if your headphones are hard to drive or not.
 
You can have 600 Ohm headphones that are easier to drive than 32 Ohm headphones. It is the sensitivity and efficiency that matters the most.
A very quick exsample of this would be the K612 and the HE 560. The K612 has a ohm rating of 120 Ohm and a sensitivity rating of 101 SPL/V, while the HE 560 has a Ohm rating of 45 Ohm and a efficiency rating of 90 SPL/mW. Using a online calculator we get these results, which shows that the HE 560 will need more power than the K612, despite the K612 having a Ohm rating that is almost three times higher than the HE 560's.
I used this website to calculate the power needed http://www.digizoid.com/headphones-power.html
 
Wnat to know how much power your headphones need and the math behind it? Look here
 
Different explanations (keeping it simple)
 
Before you go buy an amp for some headphones you just orded wait get the headphones and test them with your onboard before you go spend money on a amp.
Before you go buy an DAC amp combo, if you already has transparent sound and you have nothing wrong with your onboard DAC then you will not notice a difference between your onboard and a DAC and if you buy an DAC you will need an amp.
 
Remember sound is not black and white like some people say it is, there are more to sound than just specs.
 
Only look down here if you really need an DAC and amp or just an amp
 
Why get anything else than the cheap products?
What is a DAP? (Digital Audio Player)
 
I have used amazon.de and amazon.com for every product that is not from Schiit where I used their own webshop
 
Before looking at tube amps
A tube amp is best with headphones that have a high impedance because it is there they have their power, while a normal solid state amp normally has the most power in the lower ohms. I highly recommend not getting a tube amp for let's say 35 Ohm headphones, but rather a tube hybrid amp which is a mix of a tube and solid state amp, you get the sound of tubes while still having the power in the lower Ohms and having a lower output impedance.
 
My recommendations for desktop amps:
 
My recommendations for desktop DACs:
 
My recommendations for desktop Combos:
 
My recommendations for small Combos that run on usb only:
 
My recommendations for DAPs (Digital audio players)
 
Where do I buy schiit in EU?
http://www.schiit-europe.com/
http://schiit.eu.com/   (UK)

Where do I buy Soekris?
https://www.modhouseaudio.com/ (USA)
http://www.soekris.eu/shop/index.php (EU)
 
 
Lastly if you have interference look at this guide SSL has made.
 
If you have suggestions about gear and explanations.
If you have some gear that you would like to see added then there are 4 options.
 
Comment the gear you would like to see added and why or send me a PM, I will then look into it very thoroughly when I have time and if I find it worthy, then it will be added. Often I will get a loaner unit and test it.
 
If you want a explanation to something, then comment what you would like explained or send me a PM and then I will look into it.
 
FEEL FREE TO ASK ME ANYTHING ABOUT THIS POST
Remember there are no stupid questions, I am here to help.
I hope that this post helped you and cleared some things up for you 

please stop for now, you are giving advice about gear you haven't heard and then you link to Zeos that is known for not being able to hear that well and change his taste quite often, even his own discord chat calls him deaf. I get that you are just trying to help, but it really just creates more chaos and confusion. Just to be clear this is not to be mean or any form of attack on you. I were also in the boat you are in right now once and it is great that you are trying to help, but you really should get some more knowledge and experience before you start helping.  
 
The 599 actually need about 4 times as much power as the 598, because it has a sensitivity of 106dB/V instead of 112dB/V. The Creative thing you linked sounds awful, you would know this if you have tried it. Also just because they say up to something for impedance doesn't mean that it can't power anything above that impedance.
 
The Syba sounds like you would expect for $41, a decent onboard today will be on the same level as it or better, except the mic input on onboard would have static in the background. It would be a ok for a cheap dead onboard replacement, but don't expect much from it @LoneStar
I wouldn't recommend getting anything for the M50x because it doesn't "scale" that well and it would make more sense to get a better headphone first and then later look into a DAC and amp. I would especially not get something from Creative, it is low quality for what you pay and it colors the sound a lot. If you must then get something external, schiit fulla 2 would be okay for low impedance headphones, but you can maybe find a used geek out 1000 for very little money and that would be a better buy than the fulla 2. If you go below these then you honestly start to get into onboard quality, hell I would say that the fulla 2 is barely above a decent onboard.
Maybe, I would have to get a unit for testing before I would be confident enough to put it on the list. It certainly measures well, but that doesn't tell us much about how it actually sounds. A good exsample of this would be Mr.Speaker headphones, they measure well but they sound dead and aren't that detailed. I am in the works of securing a few different amps for testing where the atom is one of them, but it can take another month or two before any of them will get here, these things take time because this is on a volunteer basis.
 
To all of you I hope that you are having a good day.

aww I was ready to get nerdy and then I see that SSL already did it...

This is not a review per say, but here is my thoughts about them. When I got them what 3 years ago or so, I was like damn these are good, but now not so much at all. 
I will keep this very short and clean.
 
Let us get rid you this BS with them being "flat" or "neutral" they are NOT "flat" or "neutral".
 
The bass/lows: Okay they are okay with the lows for the price, I must give them that, they are not the thights things ever when it comes to the bass, but around what I would expect for headphones with this kind of sound signature and price. The bass can seem a little artificial some times. The bass also tends to bleed into the mids, which really isn't okay. When comparing the bass to the K612 bass, it really shows how much they actually bleed and that they aren't nearly as well controlled and tight as K612, but there is more bass in the M50. The bass in M50 also don't stand a chance against the bass from a set of HE 560, sure the M50 sounds a bit bassier, but HE 560 beats them in every other aspect of the bass.
 
The mids: IMO there is not much to say here since they are nothing special at all, they are a bit on the muddy side, so the vocals are not as clear as they are in some of my other headphones. When comparing to HE 560 or K612, the mids really seem "meh" at best, they simply can't keep up with those headphones in that regard. 
 
The treble/highs: Yeah they are not good, they are okay, but not good. I normally like treble, but these things damn no thanks. I love my K612 and they can have a little to much treble for some people, but these things has a easy time getting the treble harsh and I don't mind if the treble gets a little harsh, but this is just not okay for me. If you like to listen to music with bells or generally a lot of highs in it, then don't get these.
 
Soundstage: I think they missed that part when making and testing them, because it is not there. They are very narrow sounding meaning everything is in the middle of your head or to the right or left, it doesn't sound like a instrument is maybe 3-4 meters away from you, no it is right up against your ear. There is basically no width to them and it really shows.
 
Imaging: Not sure how to put this, but it isn't good either, but I have heard worse. The very narrow soundstage probably also plays a role in this.
 
Detailed: Okay they are fairly detailed, not insanely detailed, but fairly. They can't match K612 in detail, so when switching between those two headphones you really start to hear how forgiving the M50 really are and that is just comparing them to a set of 100$ headphones. I would probably put detail a little above a set of modded Porta Pros. Not that forgiving is outright a bad quality, but it is if you want to hear every single little detail in the song. I tend to personally switch to modded porta pros when I want to listen to a song that isn't mixed very well, because they don't show it that much.
 
Comfort: They are fine if you use them for one hour or so, but for longer use no thanks. The pads are not that good and cheaply made, the headband does not have enough cushion. The pads get flat fairly quickly too.
 
Build: They are build out of plastic and does not have a very nice finish to them, with the "sharp" edges and I think the older M50s are build better than the M50x, because of the higher quality jack and that is it. The headband and pads tend to fall apart after a year or so, I have seen headphones where they started to fall apart after 4-6 months. So be prepared for that.
 
Looks: I don't really care at all, but I would say that they try to look professionel, but fails a little. 
 
Recommend? These are not headphones I would recommend for their current price, if they became maybe 100$ then they would be a better value and we could talk about maybe recommending them, even there it would only be to the people that wanted a bass headphone that was full size and portable. The K550 MK II or K553 (same headphones, just different names) would be a much better option for around 150$, it is better in every single way.

this is simply not true at all, be extremely careful with statements like these that you just pull out of the blue. DACs and amps are overall more sublte upgrades compared to headphones, but they are certainly upgrades. A high quality DAC and amp will be cleaner and offer more detail if your headphones are good enough, if you want to see a mindblowing change then just try and compare onboard to a RME ADI 2 DAC, it is insanely clean and clear and even on cheaper headphones like the K612 or DT 880 it is a instant upgrade over basically anything that's cheaper than it. 
 
You need to train your ears for it to be somewhat easy for you to hear the differences between different DACs and amps, but it is most certainly possible, for a untrained ear some things will sound the same even though to the trained ear they will sound different. From my testing with friends and family then the average person that doesn't have a trained ear will mainly notice if something is cleaner sounding, but not that there is a bit more detail to the guitar or more detail to the vocals. Something can also be more detailed and not sound cleaner, but something can also sound cleaner but be less detailed because it smoothes the sound.
 
How many bits a DAC can decode isn't a sign of quality, like you seem to imply that it is, it is the quality of how well it can decode it. It's like you can have a song with a bad master but in 24/192 and then you can have the same song with a good master but it is 16/48 and it will sound.
 
No DAC should EQ anything, honestly if you need to EQ your headphone then you bought the wrong headphone. Doing a EQ to a headphone will generally raise the THD and you can also get to experience bloated bass. At the very most do a small 2-3dB adjustment somewhere, but all headphones will react different to EQ.
 
it is 100% fair if you don't hear the differences or find it worth it, each to their own and there are plenty of people where it simply isn't worth it.

Okay guys I have seen a lot of people on here is starting to wanting to buy amps and dacs and let me just explain to you guys why you need one and why you don't need one. This is going to be very basic and generalised.
 
Reasons to get a DAC.
 
1. Noise in your sound
2. Your onboard makes the sound warm or cold sounding
3. Over all low quality sound coming from your onboard
4. Can look nice
5. You want more detail and higher audio quality
 
Reasons to NOT get a DAC.
 
1. No noise.
2. No coloring in your onboard.
3. You already have "transparent" sound. ( kinda the same as Nr. 2)
4. Takes up space.
5. You will need to buy an amp.
 
Reasons to get a amp.
 
1. You can't power your headphones. (your headphones don't get loud enough)
2. Your headphones sound muddy only at that pc (kinda the same as Nr. 1)
3. Can look nice.
4. You want to try tube sound. (they get really hot, so do NOT touch them.)
5. You want better audio quality (though keep in mind that if your source is bad then it won't suddenly sound good with a better amp)
6. Less noise
 
Reasons to NOT get a amp.
 
1. You can power your headphones.
2. Takes up space.
 
Most motherboards on the market to day can power 90%-95% of all the headphones on the market. A DAC and amp will not make your headphones a lot better if you already have "transparent" sound and they are powered properly, they can bring out more detail and overall better audio quality, but I wouldn't recommend getting a DAC and amp if you don't have good headphones, I would rather recommend that you save the money and get better headphones, expecially if you are unhappy by the sound you have in your headphones, because no DAC and amp is suddenly going to do any major change the signature of your headphones.
 
Ohm does not say if your headphones are hard to drive or not.
 
You can have 600 Ohm headphones that are easier to drive than 32 Ohm headphones. It is the sensitivity and efficiency that matters the most.
A very quick exsample of this would be the K612 and the HE 560. The K612 has a ohm rating of 120 Ohm and a sensitivity rating of 101 SPL/V, while the HE 560 has a Ohm rating of 45 Ohm and a efficiency rating of 90 SPL/mW. Using a online calculator we get these results, which shows that the HE 560 will need more power than the K612, despite the K612 having a Ohm rating that is almost three times higher than the HE 560's.
I used this website to calculate the power needed http://www.digizoid.com/headphones-power.html
 
Wnat to know how much power your headphones need and the math behind it? Look here
 
Different explanations (keeping it simple)
 
Before you go buy an amp for some headphones you just orded wait get the headphones and test them with your onboard before you go spend money on a amp.
Before you go buy an DAC amp combo, if you already has transparent sound and you have nothing wrong with your onboard DAC then you will not notice a difference between your onboard and a DAC and if you buy an DAC you will need an amp.
 
Remember sound is not black and white like some people say it is, there are more to sound than just specs.
 
Only look down here if you really need an DAC and amp or just an amp
 
Why get anything else than the cheap products?
What is a DAP? (Digital Audio Player)
 
I have used amazon.de and amazon.com for every product that is not from Schiit where I used their own webshop
 
Before looking at tube amps
A tube amp is best with headphones that have a high impedance because it is there they have their power, while a normal solid state amp normally has the most power in the lower ohms. I highly recommend not getting a tube amp for let's say 35 Ohm headphones, but rather a tube hybrid amp which is a mix of a tube and solid state amp, you get the sound of tubes while still having the power in the lower Ohms and having a lower output impedance.
 
My recommendations for desktop amps:
 
My recommendations for desktop DACs:
 
My recommendations for desktop Combos:
 
My recommendations for small Combos that run on usb only:
 
My recommendations for DAPs (Digital audio players)
 
Where do I buy schiit in EU?
http://www.schiit-europe.com/
http://schiit.eu.com/   (UK)

Where do I buy Soekris?
https://www.modhouseaudio.com/ (USA)
http://www.soekris.eu/shop/index.php (EU)
 
 
Lastly if you have interference look at this guide SSL has made.
 
If you have suggestions about gear and explanations.
If you have some gear that you would like to see added then there are 4 options.
 
Comment the gear you would like to see added and why or send me a PM, I will then look into it very thoroughly when I have time and if I find it worthy, then it will be added. Often I will get a loaner unit and test it.
 
If you want a explanation to something, then comment what you would like explained or send me a PM and then I will look into it.
 
FEEL FREE TO ASK ME ANYTHING ABOUT THIS POST
Remember there are no stupid questions, I am here to help.
I hope that this post helped you and cleared some things up for you 

I think it has more to do with familiarity than anything else. The original M50 was the perfect headphone released at the perfect time, and quickly became the standard for monitoring. If it works, it works, and there's no reason to switch things up. After all, from a pure production point of view, knowing how a piece of equipment should sound is better than having something better-sounding but less familiar.
 
Same reason the Yamaha NS-10 is so popular in mixing environments; it's not the best speaker out there, but it works well enough and it's a common reference point that most people can relate to. No need to make the playback setup more of a variable than it needs to be.
 
I still disagree with most everyone else here that the M50X is terrible. Overpriced and overhyped as a personal audio device? Sure. It's still nice and flat in the frequency domain; for pure monitoring purposes it does its job well. For enjoyment I'll agree with the others; the harmonic distortion is low but the rest of its response leaves a lot to be desired.
It's been a while since I've visited this thread, so I hadn't noticed that conversation. Lots of issues there.
Decibels are logarithmic, not linear. Sensitivity, with units of dB SPL/mW, cannot be linear. In these units, headphones with a sensitivity of 115 require 32x as much power as those with sensitivity 100 to reach the same volume, a far cry from the 1.15x @Wielded1 suggested. dB SPL/mW is a literal description of how loud the headphone is at 1mW input. The effects of impedance on power are already baked into this number. P = V^2 / Z is a thing, yes. Note that power is inverse linear with impedance, not a square term. Doubling impedance results in half the power assuming a constant input voltage, not a "like 66%" difference. Holding power constant results in a √ 2 factor increase in voltage, which is where impedance actually becomes useful – and even then, at a much smaller level than previously argued. Even if the power requirements were to triple (which it doesn't), this would result in a difference of less than 5dB, far from the 60dB argued. Once again, dB SPL/mW is not remotely linear. The equation linked has little to do with his argument. For a competently designed amplifier the output impedance is negligible and the circuit is already in simplified Thevenin form (no need to separate the Thevenin and load terms). And those are equations for complex analysis, which isn't at all necessary given the assumption of a resistive load. Stripping away the unused terms and simplifying produces the familiar P = V^2 / R.  
 
 
 
 

Got myself some new boots for the winter  It's a pair of Härkila mountain trek gtx 6, hopefully these will last me many winter seasons.
 

Got myself some new boots for the winter  It's a pair of Härkila mountain trek gtx 6, hopefully these will last me many winter seasons.
 

Look for something with "Dolby Atoms" on it.

The A30 is straight up garbage, it has a output impedance of 10 ohm for the 3.5mm and 30 ohm for the 1/4", so the  3.5 is only ok for 80 ohm headphones and up and the 1/4" is ok for 240 ohm and up. This is to insure that there aren't any dampening problems. To add to that if you want to go planar then get the lowest possible output impedance. Plus it is a very colored sounding amp.

The A30 is straight up garbage, it has a output impedance of 10 ohm for the 3.5mm and 30 ohm for the 1/4", so the  3.5 is only ok for 80 ohm headphones and up and the 1/4" is ok for 240 ohm and up. This is to insure that there aren't any dampening problems. To add to that if you want to go planar then get the lowest possible output impedance. Plus it is a very colored sounding amp.

Its the industry standard, that is why.
 
Also, Microsoft Access.
 
Third, Google docs is trash if you need to print anything and Google sheets SUCKS if you need to do any advanced scripting.

Damn that is a nice looking watch