Jump to content
Search In
  • More options...
Find results that contain...
Find results in...

VioDuskar

Member
  • Content Count

    2,831
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by VioDuskar

  1. the internals are great. I'm pretty disappointed in the 5t because they're getting rid of capacitive buttons on the front for on screen buttons, which really bothers me. but that's personal preference. the fingerprint ID is stupid fast.
  2. generic drivers work pretty well nowadays.
  3. it's great in my opinion, best specs for the price, but OP is getting some price creep that i don't quite like. it's quick and as someone who doesn't mind flashing the OS, I normally flash Cyanogenmod/Lineage on my OP phones.
  4. had a OP1, OP3, and now OP5. I havent bought 'T' Editions.
  5. So, here's my idea. Microsoft has announced an LTE surface pro. I have a surface pro 4 that i've had about 2 years now. so here's what I want to do, and help me brain storm this. I want to install windows 10, android Oreo, Mac OS, and a Linux Disto. all on individual 128GB Micro SD cards. booting each on my surface pro 4, via the SD slot. I would use the internal storage as communal storage between them all, formated in EXFat for a universal file system between the OSs. I would use a USB to install all of these OSs onto the micro SD. Remix OS seems to be x86/x64 bootable and all other listed OSs are obviously x86/x64 compatible. thoughts? foreseen issues? do you think android could use the LTE feature of the new surface pro?
  6. i'd just reinstall win10. it's AMD OverDrive that is causing the problem. if you can't uninstall in safe mode i'd try to gut the files that AOD uses, then try to uninstall in normal mode. if that fails, just reinstall Win10, it's a fresh install anyway, so you aren't losing much.
  7. upon some research, i can see that most gains in gaming are marginal but normal transfers are massively faster.
  8. while m.2 is a form factor, the 960 m.2 is a PCI-e NVMe drive, and it's a butt-load (as in a whole wine barrel) faster to load anything from. show me a review where games load slower on ANY m.2 drive vs a comparable SSD.
  9. shown the opposite? like games load slower? like boot times are slower on an m.2 vs an SSD? like the m.2 takes up an SSD's SATA port? what reviews are you talking about?
  10. looks like a regular jumper pin. i'd leave it alone if it isn't hurting anything.
  11. so did you try to manually adjust the clock speed in the UEFI? it says OC (overclock), so the board will not accept the speed automatically, you need to manually set it. and it's DDR (doubleDataRate) so if you measure it with software tools it might read as 1600MHz instead of 3200MHz
  12. that motherboard does not support RAM speeds over 2667MHz. see the spec page on newegg. https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157761 you spent $200 on some nice RAM, but less than $100 on a motherboard. don't cheap out on a good motherboard.
  13. dat boot time doe. while most people don't see a difference when browsing the internet, you will see a huge difference if games are loaded on it, and boot time is quicker than my POST time in my case. it also frees up SATA ports
  14. as much as this hurts: start from scratch, pull GPUs out, insert cheap GPU for an easy boot. place stock coolers back on GPUs, insert (1) one 1080 into the top slot, check if it boots, then insert the same 1080 into the bottom slot to make sure your PCI-e slots are functioning properly. if the 1080 doesn't display, then try with the other 1080. if neither work use a cheap GPU. if both 1080s will work in both slots, then re-apply water-block and attempt each GPU one at a time, post results.
  15. why not swap out the 850 SSD for a 960 M.2 drive? your MB supports it, and it's much much faster
  16. the CPU won't bottleneck the GPU it's fine. as for power, i normally suggest a 750W, because it will last for years down the line, and many builds later, for not that much more up front. but a 550w should work.
  17. i bought my used (used once) for 350 USD, and it seems to be worth it if you have a gtx 1070+ or 980SLI it seems to work fine on both of my setups. it's kind of like it's own gaming console to be honest. it has it's own store and such. in my first hand experience, the store has plenty of games. but if you logged 2000hrs you could play them all.
  18. well, you can probably find some audio bridging software, but a Y splitter is only like $5 or less.
  19. if it's a wired set i'd say just get a cheap 3.5mm jack splitter from your local bestbuy. if it's wireless that'd be a bit harder.
  20. are you sure you can put a 7th gen CPU in that socket? intel has a thing about macthing chipsets to CPU generations.
  21. Honestly, i wouldn't say much in the rig is worth upgrading, other than your GPU. the motherboard will only support either DDR3 or DDR4, not both, so you can't just upgrade to the newer RAM generation. it's probably worth if to populate your RAM slots fully instead. your CPU could be upgraded to the 6700, and you could upgrade to 4x4 or 4x8GB RAM sticks. (in DDR3) again, if you're trying to get more game out of it, just get a better GPU. if you want more multitasking, grab a 6700 and some moar RAM.
  22. nearly all board that support SLI will come with a bridge. it won't be fancy looking, but it will work, and be the proper distance for the board. if you have the budget for it, it's normally better to go with a better single card rather than SLI. SLI is normally used when you can find a similar card a few years down the road on the cheaps to extend the life of the rig, or when going all-out and buying 2 or 3 of the newest and best card. (I bought 2x GTX980s when they were brand new.)
  23. damn. IDK man. i'd try looking in other places in your bios like power saving on/off and try to turn XMP off and manually do it if you can, or keep trying the best profile it shows you. at this point i'm not 100% on what the problem can be.
×