KnightWumar

What static did you set your PC? Dont choose anything low in the network, try like 192.168.x.100, x being your network. 
 
NAT makes a separate network from a single IP(very dumbed down), DHCP is what gives each device its own IP address when a device connects to it. They are found in the router settings. You cant really change NAT, but you can change DHCP pools, timers, etc. I wouldnt touch either settings.
 
This is an odd situation. On your router could you possibly try turning on guest wifi (make the restrict access to lan active) and see if it still happens. The reason being is it would be on a totally different network from the PC. 

Part 3 is Live!

I haven't tried two, and there are downsides and upsides for both. I'll try to list some of them.
 
4mm Plywood: 
Pros: -Thinner, better for compact cases. - Easier to drill holes through. - Easier to cut through.  -Can make more detailed art.
Cons: -You HAVE to use spacers with your screws. You can't countersink screws, so they will stick out of the case. 
Depends: -If you need more strength, you can glue (or screw) together two pieces of plywood to make an 8mm thick piece. It gives you flexibility, but also takes away some time.
 
10mm Plywood:
Pros: -Much sturdier, if you're making a large stylized server or something. -Can be used as standalone art piece with some wood lacker, no need for paint if you're precise with your cuts. You CAN countersink screws, so if you cover it in Tolex or something like I did, it will look MUCH smoother.
Cons: -Harder to work with. -Hard to make precise, detailed art with.(INCLUDING FAN MOUNTS AND EXHAUST!) -Hard to mount I/O like USB ports and such. 
Depends:- You can confidently go with larger cases, allowing for sound-proofing materials to be installed on the insides.

all the posts above are from people with no experience of this.
i got my own wooden pc case i did lan with it and temps of components stressed or gaming and get around 60 to 70° celcius.
 
1. fire hazard, the biggest crap they all tell you sure wood catch fire and burns easy if you get the wood heated up above 100°c and i think your pc will be already shutting down if it will be getting that high.
2. don't matter what wood you take just be sure to take around 8mm if you don't use wheels to move it otherwise it will get heavy trust me my first mistake was 12mm mdf.
3. you get way more space in the case than any other case you would buy, you have your own positions for the components special made etc.
4. draw on paper what your case should look like in different ways + mods, draw them also in a 3d program like sketchup free and easy.
5. take very good measurements because once its cut it nasty to reattach take your time average building time of a case will take u for more than 24 hours of pure work.
6. if your case is 60cm in height, 50cm depth and 20 cm width you can fit an standard atx mobo 1 to 7 HDD (not ssd is more) 2 double 120 or 140mm rads and 2 triple rads and still have enough room for push pull config with 2 tanks and 2 pumps.
7. if you want a plexi window get a sturdy one around 5 mm or more is great to handle be careful not to scratch it.
 
if you need more tips i will answer your questions.

If your painting it you will want to prime before painting and give a light sand between coats as needed. I would recommend to go with a good quality latex or acrylic paint over spray paint however it is possible to use spray paint on wood. 
 
As for the case design I assume something like this:
http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/cases/2011/02/15/silverstone-fortress-ft03-review/1

A used one will be fine. 

"WD Bonk"
 
 
 



 
 
 
Hello all, This is my second scratch built case, It's a case that's designed to be a replacement for a friends ageing case, The name "Bonk" is a shortening of his nickname and I thought it was a fun name for a scratch build.
 
_________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
 
I've been doing a lot of hacksawing, filing and scribing markings for holes and design boundaries.

A whole lot of this happened, filing the aluminium for precise edges.

Result of a lot more work than it looks, all markings scribed ready for drilling and hacksawing. I'm in for a whole load of filing for this case.
 
 
 

Shortcuts and registry items has the driver letter written to them. So if you change them after you install programs, it will screw up.
But if you wonder if your HDD with Windows 7 will be bootable, and all works, it will, as that drive will appear as C:\ when you boot to it, despite Windows 10 with your SSD showing it to be D:\.
 

We have partnered with Tesoro to run another great giveaway for you all!
 
This time around we will be giving away two units of their new GRAM Spectrum mechanical keyboards!! 
 

 
Purchase Link: http://bit.ly/29bhJkm
 
*Worldwide Giveaway/No Age Restrictions*
 
To enter the giveaway:
 
1. Comment below! Tell us about the keyboard you're currently using, and why you want a new one.
 
2. Follow Tesoro on Twitter: https://twitter.com/tesorotec
 
Entries close on 7/8/2016. 
 
The winner will be selected randomly, and contacted by this account via PMs and this post on the forum.
 
*GIVEAWAY IS CLOSED, THANK YOU ALL FOR ENTERING!!*
 
Winners are: Yoola + Stefan1024
 
*YOU HAVE 72 HOURS TO RESPOND TO MY PMS, OR I WILL HAVE TO DRAW ANOTHER WINNER.*
 
 

Very easy, as Electronics Wizardy, said.
 
To complete the answer:
Use Microsoft's Media Creation Tool: https://www.microsoft.com/en-ca/software-download/windows10. Click on Download Tool Now button.
Insert a USB Flash drive of 8GB of more (note that all content inside will be erased for Windows 10 setup which the Media Creation Tool will do and setup).
Run Media Creation Tool, and you'll be greeted by a wizard, and simply follow it. In your case, select the option, when asked, that it is for another computer, despite being the same one. This is to that it doesn't do the normal upgrade process, but rather download Windows 10 ISO, and prepare your USB Flash drive.
 
Once everything is done, shutdown your computer, and unplug your HDD, and connect your new SSD.
Then insert your USB Flash drive into your system if you removed it, and tell your BIOS/UEFi to boot to it. As Windows 8 and up is fully UEFI ready, it is a good time (and only time), to disable CSM feature in the UEFI, if you have a fully UEFI ready system. Also, make sure that your SATA controller is correctly set to AHCI mode, just in case it isn't already.
 
Once booted to your USB flash drive, you'll notice that Windows 10 Setup started. Follow the instructions.
 
If it can't find your SSD (not common, but can happen):
Note: That is the only hard part, which may potentially happen depending on your system configuration.
Solution:
You are probably missing the SATA Controller Drivers. Insert your motherboard disk, and click on the setup at the same screen you'll be in: "Load Driver" link, and browse the motherboard disk for the drivers, and Windows will load them and take care of everything. If you don't have your motherboard disk, or prefer newer drivers, simply unplug your USB flash drive (yes, it is fine at this stage), plug it to another system, or alternatively, if you have, use a blank disk to burn the drivers from another system, or another USB Flash drive to put the drivers in. You can get the latest drivers from Intel web site if you are using Intel SATA controller. (they might be under "motherboard chipset drivers"), or you can go to the motherboard manufacture website to get them if you prefer, or not Intel SATA controller. You want to the get the .zip version of the drivers which you extract in a folder in your USB flash drive, not the .exe. As Windows 10 is not actually installed, it cannot run .exe's, let alone be able to extract .zip files, so you need to do that before hand. Once done, insert the disk/USB flash drive back to your system, and click on "Load Driver" link, and select them. It should now detect your SSD properly.
 
During the setup, at some point, it will ask you for your Windows 10 product key. You'll have the option "I don't have one", click on it. Your Windows 7 key will not work here.
Once Windows 10 is installed, install your drivers, do the system updated, update all the App (Store > click on your profile icon > Download & Updates >  Check for updates).
Once that is all done, now go to Start > Settings > Update & Security > Activation. From there, you'll have the option to activate Windows 10. Enter your Windows 7 product key, and you'll be automatically upgraded.

I removed the casing from the keyboard. 
Just the top part, but you can also paint the bottom.