UmerF

Here is the picture of the damage, hope it helps.
 

 
 
Great, I only knew about OnePCBSolution so thanks a bunch for mentioning others. Now here's some good news guys ..
 
I ghetto connected the hard drive to my system, transferring all the data from WD Black 4TB to my WD Element 4TB as a backup, I could try using glue to permanently attach the SATA cable with the hard drive that way whenever that drive is moved the cable goes with it which is not much of an issue IMO considering as long as it works I shouldn't have an issue.
 
That way even if WD can help in this case or any other way, I can simply take off the PCB and replace it with new one and I'll only lose the SATA cable which is already lost anyway considering the plastic part is still stuck in it. To my surprise, even though I totally broke off one of the golden pins on that SATA port on the very right .. it still functions properly. I fixed that bent pin and made it work, so far it's going strong and 4 more hours to go before the data is totally transferred and I'm getting normal speeds of around 120-150 MB/s sometimes coming all the way down and then sometimes all the way up, that happens all the time with me anyway .. I assume it's the certain files that transfer very slow but average being around 135-145 MB/s. Please let me know if you require any further information at all.
 
Hopefully @Captain_WD can chime in on this as well.

Old thread but this mod was added after this thread was created, if OP @Stefan1024 still wants to play it then you can do so with this mod.
 
http://www.nexusmods.com/masseffect3/mods/439/
 
I have recently started ME series and played ME1 with M.E.U.I.T.M. applied and ME2 with ALOT, applying ALOT for ME3 and starting that since I finished ME2 earlier today - played a bit of ME3 by importing my character and HUD was horrible, so going to be applying that mod and then ALOT on top of it to enjoy it thoroughly.
 
Good luck.

Old thread but this mod was added after this thread was created, if OP @Stefan1024 still wants to play it then you can do so with this mod.
 
http://www.nexusmods.com/masseffect3/mods/439/
 
I have recently started ME series and played ME1 with M.E.U.I.T.M. applied and ME2 with ALOT, applying ALOT for ME3 and starting that since I finished ME2 earlier today - played a bit of ME3 by importing my character and HUD was horrible, so going to be applying that mod and then ALOT on top of it to enjoy it thoroughly.
 
Good luck.

Sounds like a plan, I'll get 3DMark on Steam shortly and run those tests. I have R6 and other games as well but not Hitman, I'm waiting until they release all the episodes at once to play that game.
 
I'll be getting another AMP Extreme for SLI in a month or so from Canada so I can 60fps maxed out on nearly every game with an exception here and there. Good luck with your YouTube channel, link me to the video when done and I'll check it out as well.

Yeah, unfortunately it won't give me a QHD option. 
 
I have benchmarks already extensively ran in Time Spy, Heaven, Hitman, Rainbow Six Siege, and Valley. I have been benchmarking for like a month now to compare my 1080 stock vs liquid cooled, and will be releasing a how-to and results video very soon. It will be the first video on my YouTube channel. I had to buy a second video card so I could record audio on my desktop while working on my 1080, so I grabbed a 1060 and plan to give it away after the video is live.  I am super excited.
 
Run any of those benchmarks you can, and if there is anything else you have or decide you want to run and compare, just let me know what it is and I will buy/download it, so we can compare.

Looks like a glitch

Converting a huge library that I have is pretty much out of the question, I'm better off using PotPlayer instead then tbh .. but I'll definitely look into CCCP Codec and see what's up, thanks for your input once again mate. Highly appreciated!
 
As for anyone else, if you have any workaround for VLC then please fire away!

Ah, sorry for late reply but I ended up doing what I said I will and I glued the drive and SATA cable together and finally tested it today and seems to be working just fine!
I might still reach out to that live chat thing just to see if replacement with re-furbished drive is possible since it's still under warranty, considering the other replies on this thread it might fail on me down the road so why take a risk if something more solid can be done but until then at least this seems to be pretty good solution for now, eh?
 
I did backup all the data right away to my WD Elements 4TB when I ghetto connected it the first time, lol. Once again, thanks a lot for your input in this matter. Sometime soon, I'll reach out to the WD Live Support and see what they have to say as well like you suggested!
 

 
@AleksaNS, @valdyrgramr ^ Look .. I made it, lol.
 
 
Luckily it won't come to that, and if it did .. I'd be more keen towards getting a refurbished drive as an RMA process from WD as compared to doing the process myself and voiding the warranty cause apparently the drive still seems to be valid for warranty probably, lol.
 
Albeit, thank you so much for your input and time as well.
 
 
Definitely won't be trying to replace the PCB myself as long as the device might still be valid under warranty for RMA process, it'd be totally last resort if WD Live Support tells me there's nothing they can do but hopefully it won't come to that.
 
 
That was the first thought but since most of the data was just games and what not and I was able to recover the other data to my external drive such as pictures and what not, I think if I buy a new one I'll just use that and keep this one as a paper weight lol but things seems to be looking pretty good for me so far and HDD might still be valid for RMA process.
 
 
Hahaha, that's pretty much exactly what I did .. if you go through the pictures I shared in this thread you'll see the condition from start to me ghetto connecting the drive to recover the data and running as test and then gluing the SATA cable directly with the drive lol.
 
I still have the drive under warranty and I'll reach out to them to see what they have to say regarding the RMA process as @Captain_WD suggested.
 
 
True as well as even better chances if it's from the same batch it seems, luckily I won't need to go down that road. Too much hassle!
 
--
 
Thank you everyone for your time and input, so far it seems to be good and next step is to reach out to WD Live Support to see if RMA process is still valid for this drive and then will consider sending it for replacement. I'd be really surprised if they actually entertain this though, it'd be mad props to them to be doing RMA on a unit that was a user mess up.

@Captain_WD

Sounds good. Good Luck and Have Fun

First off, to explain an air pocket.

If you look closely, you will see portions in the block where there is air insteak of liquid. Air in you block will hugely impact heat transfer, and can even affect flow. It will do the same in your radiator; if the liquid does not come in contact with the fins directly because there are large portions of air (not small bubbles, think about half the radiator filled with air instead of liquid to understand it).
 
Getting air out of your system is definitely a different process
If you watch most "how to build a loop" videos, either by jayz or LTT, you will notice that they pick the system up and rotate it around.
 
This is Exagerated, since the flow will "drag" air through the system and only need the system leaned around, but this is a way to think about getting air through the system.
 
The red dots represent air pockets, the red arrows represent how the case is being rotated.
 
Note that the air starts in the radiator (where it is killing heat transfer), and ends up in the reservoir, where air is supposed to be.
 

 
You have to rotate/lean the case around because air only goes up, and will get stuck in the highest point of the system, unless the flow forces it out (somewhat difficult in the radiator since the cross sectional area is large).
 
So if you can build the loop inside the case, then take the loop out, fill it, flip it around and such (making sure everything is sealed up and plugged), that may be the best way to bleed the system of air.
Or you can build it and lean the case around a bit while the pump is on and you'll probably be fine
 
 
I go into these long explainations, and end up determining i'm probably over explaining everything (i'm an engineer, it's in my blood )
 
Hopefully that clears some things up
 

Well, that sucks. Sorry you had to deal with that.
 
Welp, good luck with your future upgrades and glad you're happy with the temps

Hahahhahaha, I know man. Luckily ... it didn't cause any blockage or anything because as long as it's all water and not dried up out in the open it's all good but when it dries up .. oh holy moly it becomes that white dried up thing, glucose I'm sure lol. Luckily, it didn't cause any harm .. since water was just sitting in there up until a while ago when I drained all of it out and put in Pure Distilled Water. I got great quality one straight from the lab this time, Distilled water supply you say? I got plenty! 
 

 
Source:
 
Now you can see the ones I've got, which is .. 7 bottles in total with 6 liters in each lol. 42ltrs of Pure Distilled Water. I think .. I'm good for a while
 
As for biocide, I'm not sure where I can get it from but I'll look at it it .. I did order a KillCoil from Amazon and I believe that kills algae or anything for that matter. Is biocide still necessary after putting KillCoil in the loop? I'll definitely put it if I can find it locally otherwise import it if it's necessary.
 
Oh yes baby! Mayhem UV ones are smexy as hell, I love the way the little particles in the water go around in the loop when you turn on the system. It's just so pretty looking! I'm definitely going with those mainly because of it's looks but good to know they're top notch in quality as well. Will most likely get UV ones, obviously with some blacklights installed in the system.
 
--
 
Okay, thank you so much for clarifying that. It makes much more sense now but I want to know if I'm using the pump to drain out all the water .. it'll be creating the air anyway so I really don't need any leak in the system to drain everything out, right? Your/his theory is mainly to drain everything out without a pump .. correct? Please correct me if I'm mistaken. Plus, I'd much rather put a fitting with a plug somewhere on top rather than a ball valve and open the plug whenever I need air specially if I were to put it on top of the reservoir it'll be easy peasy .. I don't really need any fitting or valve for it since I can just simply unplug the top of the res since only one of it being used and not the other three and they're plugged from top.
 
But once again, if I am using pump to drain out the water it shouldn't be an issue really .. correct?
 
Anyways, I'm all ready to put the loop in the system. Got ample amount of distilled water now as well, will order some dyes probably from FrozenCPU directly to my country but I might wait until Jan for that and run the system with pure distilled water for now. I'm waiting on valve to arrive before putting it in my system, I just put in distilled water and re-running any leak test from the equipment or anything and will flush out this distilled water with new one in couple days and keep on doing it until my other stuff gets here in the next 10 days hopefully.
 
I just upgraded from 6600k (temporary processor) to 6700k (permanent, unless something better comes for this chipset) yesterday with H100i and most likely will get a replacement Z170 Deluxe by ASUS in coming days as well, so it's only ideal to put the loop after all that is done.
 


 
... Oh and also got my 2x 32GB G.Skill Trident Z kit to replace my current Single 32GB Kit today. Now I can have total of 64GB G.Skill Trident Z 3000MHz  :wub: 
 
 
Yes, it was indeed discussed. We decided I'll use the T fitting at the bottom of the loop and the additional end that T fitting will provide will be connected with quick disconnect for easy and ideal draining loop.
 
Thanks for your input, if you have any more ideas they're most welcome 

I was leaning towards it myself as well but ended up building a custom water loop, parts will arrive in couple of days and rest will arrive in coming weeks time. Will be putting together a whole custom water loop ~$500-600 in few days. Ordered everything already, fuck! I was just as happy with H100i but the urge to get badass looking 900D custom water cooling loop got the best of me oh and the fact that it's hard to get hardware like that here in Pakistan and someone was selling it here all brand new locally
 
tldr, you're doing it right, go with Predator maybe even the 360 rad version for future proofing to add more than just CPU.

maybe not even then lol 

On one side you will need this, but on the another you will need that if you're planning to screw it with the base.

yeah man good luck with your build tag me in it when you start building it. Ive got to go good chat man thanks.

Yes, you'll need two. Male and Female variants of both, try not to use too many of those as they can slow down the flow of water in your loop but in your desk build they'll come in very very handy I'm sure. I'm also looking into these for draining purposes only since I have 900D and I can't tilt it around to get water out lol.
 
Either these or Valve, use the pump to push the water out without messing around with the whole case. Those fittings sure do look sexy though!

So far I'm loving the idea of Swiftech ones, they're small but they are also kinda tight .. not sure if that's what you want but check some YouTube videos on it: http://www.swiftech.com/Quickdisconnect.aspx also this, http://www.swiftech.com/lok-seal.aspx
 
Alternatively, Koolance got some nice ones but they're much bigger than Swiftech ones. Take a look here: http://koolance.com/quick-disconnect-shutoff-couplings?path=60
 
For me, I might be only limited to Koolance once as they are the only ones listed on Amazon for now along with some Bitspower one as well I think? I would only pick top brands like Bitspower, Koolance, Swiftech and EKWB but not sure if EK is making any quick disconnect fittings or not.
 
P.S. Great desk build you got going there, I'll chime in there later on as it's one of the DIY project on my list when I get some free time for fun.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812423165&cm_re=pwm_molex_splitter-_-12-423-165-_-Product
 
Power straight from the PSU, splits into 3 fans.  4 pin for the fan header to adjust RPMs via whatever you choose.  I've been suggested this because I was worried about splitting fans and the mobo supplying enough power to the headers, to avoid all the worries and keep my mobo healthy, this seems the best way.  NOTE: Haven't used them myself, they'll be in with the H110i.  Guy said they were amazing though.
 
EDIT: Ordered some, have been using them and they're TREMENDOUS.  They work perfectly.  Will NEVER build another PC without them

Plug the SSD into the Intel 6GB/s port. Check your motherboard manual where they are located.

If the motherboard you are using is the one in your signature, Asus Maximus VI Formula, you are probably using the ASMEDIA 6/GB ports and not the Intel. The ASMEDIA ports never give full SATA III 6GB/s speed.

Checking what firmware ver is on the drive is a start.  It mentions the firmware version in the article Goodman2265 linked.

Im at a summer job, Guess what i do..
I sit in front of a machine and put steel plates on it and push 2 levers and move it to the next station.. The pay aint bad though, 100 SEK(about 15 USD) for each hour. And im sweating to death, 25 degrees C is too hot for me to work properly.

60Dba is the sort of noise levels you'd find in a busy call centre.....