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Anyone know how many watts a 140mm rad can dissipate?

Thinking about getting a 780 TI Classified waterblock from my friend for my new GPU.  ( just got a 780 TI Classified today)

 

Figured I could hook it up with this: http://www.performance-pcs.com/swiftech-mcr140-x-drive-combination-radiator-pump-reservoir.html

 

 

But I'm not entirely sure if it'll be able to handle the 780 TI at 1.4 volts during bench sessions.

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Whats the total volume of water and fin density, that should be about 90% right in perfect conditions. You want me to find a formula?

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I single thin 120 can cool a 295x2; I would think the 140 would be fine even clocked to high hell.

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It depends on the thickness, fin density, and flow restriction. If the manufacturer does not specify the exact TDP, then estimate it based on other 140mm radiator, which gives us an average of 300-400W TDP

 

at 1.4v I can see you getting temps over 80C, which is ok for benchmarking but not for extended periods of time

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I single thin 120 can cool a 295x2; I would think the 140 would be fine even clocked to high hell.

the 295x2 uses watercooling and air cooling at the same time

it also uses a thicker radiator with higher fpi

 

also when you overclock a GPU it starts creating exponentially more amounts of heat, its not linear increase

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Whats the total volume of water and fin density, that should be about 90% right in perfect conditions. You want me to find a formula?

 

 

I wish I knew, but I can't seem to find any specs on fin-density. 

 

It depends on the thickness, fin density, and flow restriction. If the manufacturer does not specify the exact TDP, then estimate it based on other 140mm radiator, which gives us an average of 300-400W TDP

 

at 1.4v I can see you getting temps over 80C, which is ok for benchmarking but not for extended periods of time

 

 

I was benching earlier at 1.33v with a "modded" stock cooler, ( i took off the shroud & fans, and mounted to 2600 RPM fans on it) and I topped out around 75c on the GPU, so I think a 140 rad + a much more efficient block should help a lot.

 

I think at 1.4 I may top out at like 65, but I'm not entirely sure.

 

 

I'll be looking at much over 400w once I start pushing voltage, & the cooler I can keep it the better off I'll be.  If I do have to spring for a 220x I can, just would rather not if I don't have to.

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I wish I knew, but I can't seem to find any specs on fin-density. 

 

 

 

I was benching earlier at 1.33v with a "modded" stock cooler, ( i took off the shroud & fans, and mounted to 2600 RPM fans on it) and I topped out around 75c on the GPU, so I think a 140 rad + a much more efficient block should help a lot.

 

I think at 1.4 I may top out at like 65, but I'm not entirely sure.

 

 

I'll be looking at much over 400w once I start pushing voltage, & the cooler I can keep it the better off I'll be.  If I do have to spring for a 220x I can, just would rather not if I don't have to.

thats true, it could be lower

radiator TDP doesnt exactly determine the temps based on GPU TDP

i think a 140 will be enough

 

but if possible, get something other than a swiftec "expandable" AiO

they have lots of problems, I wouldnt risk it

either get a fully sealed AiO, or build a tiny custom loop

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Yes it will be more than enough, but you might be better off getting something like a raijintek triton which for the same money has a 240mm radiator, although it's aluminum. 

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thats true, it could be lower

radiator TDP doesnt exactly determine the temps based on GPU TDP

i think a 140 will be enough

 

but if possible, get something other than a swiftec "expandable" AiO

they have lots of problems, I wouldnt risk it

either get a fully sealed AiO, or build a tiny custom loop

 

 

This would just be a temporary solution until I get full funding to do the whole custom loop.

 

This is kind of a middle-ground between custom loop, and kraken G10, I think the G10 is a ugly as hell, atleast doing this I don't spend much extra, and I get a much better block that I can use later as well.

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This would just be a temporary solution until I get full funding to do the whole custom loop.

 

This is kind of a middle-ground between custom loop, and kraken G10, I think the G10 is a ugly as hell, atleast doing this I don't spend much extra, and I get a much better block that I can use later as well.

true, but every other part of that swiftec loop is a POS and you will need to replace anyway...

it would be more economical to save up a bit and buy a full kit from EK or XSPC for $200

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true, but every other part of that swiftec loop is a POS and you will need to replace anyway...

it would be more economical to save up a bit and buy a full kit from EK or XSPC for $200

 

 

Don't the kits come with CPU blocks? I don't need a full loop, just a simple one for the GPU until I have ~700$ for a custom loop.

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snip

this is the best i can do without going full lecture, i'm sorry http://www.physicsclassroom.com/class/thermalP/Lesson-1/Rates-of-Heat-Transfer

best a estimate of volume the fins occupy by finding the area of one fin and multiplying by the number of fins. then get your temperature of the room somewhere around 25c and the water will be at a constant temp after sometime that gives you the delta t. 

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Don't the kits come with CPU blocks? I don't need a full loop, just a simple one for the GPU until I have ~700$ for a custom loop.

yeah they do, but you can mod it onto your GPU, or spend an extra $50 for a GPU block like these

vga_group.jpg

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yeah they do, but you can mod it onto your GPU, or spend an extra $50 for a GPU block like these

vga_group.jpg

 

 

I have a buddy with a waterblock for my card, he'll probably sell it to me for cheap, for around 80 or something like that I'd imagine.

 

This is the model: 

 

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21600/ex-blc-1556/EK_EVGA_780_Classified_and_780_Ti_Classified_VGA_Liquid_Cooling_Block_-_Nickel_Acetal_EK-FC780_GTX_Classy_-_AcetalNickel.html?tl=g57c613s1928

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If you were to go the CPU block on the GPU route you would lack any cooling for the power system on the PCB, which not a good thing. 

 

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Watts dissipated depends more on the fans used and the delta T between the coolant and ambient that you are comfortable with than the radiator itself. Most 140mm rads can do ~20 W per degree centigrade over ambient with average 1500 rpm fans in push-pull.

Enderman can't seem to grasp the concept behind the the completely different pump in the newer Swiftech AIOs as opposed to the older ones despite all the pics and details I had shared. I have had the pump from the H220-X as well as one mcp50x (it's unlocked bigger brother) running near 24/7 for over 8 months now and they have been flawless till now in custom loops of all kinds, included an expanded H220-X.

Having said that, there are limitations with this product. The tiny reservoir will make filling and bleeding loops a chore. The bleed screw has been replaced recently on the larger models, not sure about this, so you will have to rely on having a large piece of tubing on the inlet/fill port for bleeding if this is the case with your sample. This alone would be enough to make me reconsider it. The radiator is based off an older design but not old enough to be outperformed a lot by contemporary rads. It's a middle of the ground rad when it comes to airflow impedance, so pair it up with a good single 140mm fan. Some very good ones are coming in the upcoming weeks, but my personal favorite for now is the Blacknoise NB-Blacksilent Pro PK-PS/PK-3.

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