Cleaning rad + new coolant

[ZeSalmon]

Hey! I've got a few questions about how I should clean my radiator and if I need to do something about my GPU/CPU block. So I took everything apart yesterday and noticed my 240 rad has some blue ish gunk in it, probably from my old mayhems white pastel (my tubing was pretty odd though, even though it shouldn't have plasticizer (primochill advanced LRT) ). 

 

Anyways, so I am going to use EK's Cryo-Fuel Solid this time, but I want to make sure it doesn't get f***ed just cause I didn't clean everything properly. The reason I'm asking for help is to see if I should use white vinegar dilluted with distilled water, or if I should just let it be. EK says "Do not mix or top off with any other liquid other than the same color EK-CryoFuel!" and "For added color stability, EK strongly recommends that you don't flush your loop with harsh chemicals, vinegar etc. prior to the use of EK-CryoFuel."

Shouldn't it be fine to just use vinegar and then after I've used that to clean all the stuff out, just flush the radiators with a bit more water, then distilled water? Then there shouldn't be any vinegar left at all right?

 

I also saw a bit of that build-up in the fins on the CPU block and GPU block if that's any important, also a bit of nickel flaking. I got most of it out just using soapy warm water. 

 

Any advice of what I should do is appreciated.

Thanks in advance,

Anthony

[ewitte]

I'd just run and drain distilled water maybe 4-5 times. Leave the pump on long enough to circulate the water I do 10 minutes but you can probably get by with less. 

 

Edit: I had a vinegar mix the first radiator clean but the other 4-5 times was just water. 

[ZeSalmon]

Just now, ewitte said:

I'd just run and drain distilled water maybe 4-5 times. Leave the pump on long enough to circulate the water I do 10 minutes but you can probably get by with less. 

Did that yesterday with the whole entire loop, got a bit out of it but not all of it. I have some masterkleer tubes at home, but I've heard they're not that good. Also the old fittings have a bit of gunk in it as well which I couldn't get out so I don't know if I really want to use them... Should I just do it anyways? (Swapping to PETG that's why I've got new fittings)

[ewitte]

I'm probably not one to completely ask because I use 100% clear fluids but Jay has a video where he just cracks open the ball valve (not all the way) and everything drains out and he keeps filling the reservoir slowly while the system is on.   I believe he said it takes about 2 gallons. 

[For Science!]

5 minutes ago, ZeSalmon said:

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Give us some context here. Obviously you don't seem to be dealing with a healthy loop. What was in there before, for how long, and what is the current state of the loop.

[ZeSalmon]

9 minutes ago, For Science! said:

Give us some context here. Obviously you don't seem to be dealing with a healthy loop. What was in there before, for how long, and what is the current state of the loop.

I used Mayhems Pastel, white color if that matters. For 1 year and maybe 6 months max. Current state of loop is dissasembled but prepping for PETG. Swapped chassis at the same time since I wanted PSU shroud.

[ZeSalmon]

Anyone that has any ideas?

[For Science!]

4 hours ago, ZeSalmon said:

Anyone that has any ideas?

Definitely no acids on the Nickel, just warm soapy water with a non-abrasive cloth followed by possibly chrome polish and then a good wash with warm water then distilled.

 

With the radiator, slightly less clear cut. If you use acid, I would consider getting a proper neutralizer like Mayhems Blitz Part 2 and test with pH paper for residual acid. Just as it is difficult to clean a radiator, assume it is difficult to flush out the cleaning agent completely.

 

 

[ZeSalmon]

9 hours ago, For Science! said:

Definitely no acids on the Nickel, just warm soapy water with a non-abrasive cloth followed by possibly chrome polish and then a good wash with warm water then distilled.

 

With the radiator, slightly less clear cut. If you use acid, I would consider getting a proper neutralizer like Mayhems Blitz Part 2 and test with pH paper for residual acid. Just as it is difficult to clean a radiator, assume it is difficult to flush out the cleaning agent completely.

 

 

I already used white vinegar yesterday (on the radiators only), got all of the shit out, was a fair bit so I’m happy I did that, then I rinsed a couple of times with tap water (we have really clean tap water in Sweden) and now later today when I get home I will use distilled a couple of times. I did use really warm water, almost boiling when using tap water, so I imagine a lot of it should be out already. I’m going to buy pH ”sticks” so I can meassure the pH level in the radiators, should I get some pH minus for the rads if it is at say 8/9? Or should I just keep rinsing with distilled water? Also as notes I can’t use mayhems blitz since EK adviced against that.

Edited November 21, 2018 by ZeSalmon
Edit: typo

[For Science!]

43 minutes ago, ZeSalmon said:

I already used white vinegar yesterday (on the radiators only), got all of the shit out, was a fair bit so I’m happy I did that, then I rinsed a couple of times with tap water (we have really clean tap water in Sweden) and now later today when I get home I will use distilled a couple of times. I did use really warm water, almost boiling when using tap water, so I imagine a lot of it should be out already. I’m going to buy pH ”sticks” so I can meassure the pH level in the radiators, should I get some pH minus for the rads if it is at say 8/9? Or should I just keep rinsing with distilled water? Also as notes I can’t use mayhems blitz since EK adviced against that.

Neutral pH is 7. I think normal water is slightly below this so i would say 6.5 -7 is a good target. Mayhs Blitz Part 2 is not acid, but you can usr something like clear EK-Cryofuel as an alternative, something thaf is pH buffered basically.

[ZeSalmon]

57 minutes ago, For Science! said:

Neutral pH is 7. I think normal water is slightly below this so i would say 6.5 -7 is a good target. Mayhs Blitz Part 2 is not acid, but you can usr something like clear EK-Cryofuel as an alternative, something thaf is pH buffered basically.

I’ve read that anything between 6..5-7.5 is usually good, I could do the ek cryofuel thing probably but mayhems blitz would take a long time since there is no store my country that sells it off the shelves. 

[For Science!]

Just now, ZeSalmon said:

I’ve read that anything between 6..5-7.5 is usually good, I could do the ek cryofuel thing probably but mayhems blitz would take a long time since there is no store my country that sells it off the shelves. 

or alternatively, just send in a support ticket to EKWB, explain what you had in your loop before, what you did, and ask what you should do now.

[ZeSalmon]

3 minutes ago, For Science! said:

or alternatively, just send in a support ticket to EKWB, explain what you had in your loop before, what you did, and ask what you should do now.

I did that yesterday already asking for advice, no response even though their website says they respond within 1 day. I read the sheet for all the things used in the coolant and it said it had a pH level of 8.2 as well, won’t it just manage itself if I put it in? I’ve got 3l and my loop probably only uses about 1.5-2, so I could flush it with cryofuel but that would feel like waste of money.

[Benjeh]

Personally I just used Mayhems Blitz parts 1 and 2 followed the instructions to a T. I used some old red dye by them and it keeps going purple but its dye from around the same time they had loads of issues with coolants changing colour so I don't think my stuff is to blame.

[ZeSalmon]

3 hours ago, Benjeh said:

Personally I just used Mayhems Blitz parts 1 and 2 followed the instructions to a T. I used some old red dye by them and it keeps going purple but its dye from around the same time they had loads of issues with coolants changing colour so I don't think my stuff is to blame.

So maybe I should just f**k it and just fill the loop anyways? It only said no to vinegar for color stability anyways.

[Benjeh]

13 hours ago, ZeSalmon said:

So maybe I should just f**k it and just fill the loop anyways? It only said no to vinegar for color stability anyways.

because the coolant is pH sensitive, you now need to get the level back down to as neutral as possible.

[ZeSalmon]

1 hour ago, Benjeh said:

because the coolant is pH sensitive, you now need to get the level back down to as neutral as possible.

But how do I do that? Like the coolant has it’s own pH level, why would that pH level change at all? I’ve rinsed the rad multiple times since use of vinegar

[Benjeh]

6 minutes ago, ZeSalmon said:

But how do I do that? Like the coolant has it’s own pH level, why would that pH level change at all? I’ve rinsed the rad multiple times since use of vinegar

for the best results i would buy some litmus strips to test. you literally need to rinse the rad out loads in order to get it neutral again. Like loads... i'm talking a metric butt tone.

[ZeSalmon]

18 hours ago, Benjeh said:

for the best results i would buy some litmus strips to test. you literally need to rinse the rad out loads in order to get it neutral again. Like loads... i'm talking a metric butt tone.

I’m going to buy one of those paper sticks that meassure pH levels, (probably what u said? Lol not that good with chemistry) if the pH level is low, do I buy additives that ups the pH level or do I just flush a shit ton with water with the pump going?