Grounding for custom eGPU case?

[Ross Siggers]

Hi all, long time LTT viewer but first time posting in the forums 

 

I've been messing with some old hardware for an eGPU setup, which works perfectly, so now I'm planning a custom case for it made from steel and perspex. I could wax lyrical about the build, but the real question is simply regarding the mounting of the board. The intention is to make the floor and back wall from an L-shaped metal piece for strength(the power brick is hefty!), and the other panels from perspex. I didn't choose steel over ally, I just happen to already have it from a previous project.

 

I was going to remove the casing from the EXP GDC board, and mount it directly to the base using motherboard standoffs; This gives me more clearance above, it so everything is more comfortable in what is quite a tight space... But as the power brick is fully encased in plastic and not grounded to the chassis like a desktop PSU, do I need to worry about damaging the board or even the chassis?

I don't know much about the DIY side of electronics, so advice would be appreciated. I've attached pictures of components and a sketch of the layout 

 

 

[Bananasplit_00]

the board should be grounded through the power connection? not 100% on that but either way it should be fine

[W-L]

4 minutes ago, Ross Siggers said:

Hi all, long time LTT viewer but first time posting in the forums 

 

I've been messing with some old hardware for an eGPU setup, which works perfectly, so now I'm planning a custom case for it made from steel and perspex. I could wax lyrical about the build, but the real question is simply regarding the mounting of the board. The intention is to make the floor and back wall from an L-shaped metal piece for strength(the power brick is hefty!), and the other panels from perspex. I didn't choose steel over ally, I just happen to already have it from a previous project.

 

I was going to remove the casing from the EXP GDC board, and mount it directly to the base using motherboard standoffs; This gives me more clearance above, it so everything is more comfortable in what is quite a tight space... But as the power brick is fully encased in plastic and not grounded to the chassis like a desktop PSU, do I need to worry about damaging the board or even the chassis?

I don't know much about the DIY side of electronics, so advice would be appreciated. I've attached pictures of components and a sketch of the layout 

The board will be grounded through the connector itself but if your using a metal chassis just to be safe it's not a bad idea to take the ground pin from the wall socket and jump it to the case if something catastrophic does happen. 

[Ross Siggers]

Oh wow those were some rapid replies, thanks for the peace of mind and additional failsafe tip @W-L 

Ordered my riser cable and last batch of fittings today, so fabrication starts now!   

[Alex Atkin UK]

14 minutes ago, James Evens said:

Your drawed a C21 connector which has a ground connector and most notebook psu are not isolated. This means they are main earth reference. 

Generally if its a three pin socket on the PSU then indeed it won't be isolated.  They won't include more than they need, isolated ones will just be two pin mains input.

 

Personally I'd use a multimeter to check from the GPU bracket to the PSU earth pin though, just to be sure.

[Alex Atkin UK]

1 minute ago, James Evens said:

Not always. The third pin is just a hint. There is still the possibility of a floating output. For example signal generators or programmable psu are floating output and have a 3 pin power connector.

Also a 2 pin must not be isolated (just check your china PSUs).

Which is why I would check continuity to be sure.

[Ross Siggers]

Right, so the power supply is a DELL DA-2, popular for this kind of setup I believe it actually comes from their range of compact towers for office use. I'll delve into the small print on the back, I purchased it based on research and power delivery, didn't think I would be building an enclosure at the time.

EDIT: Well, I suppose I should have just inspected by parts closer, there are three ground pins on the connector  To clarify, it's a regular kettle lead C16 going into the brick, the diagram was just a doodle for layout.