Ryzen up the Tower

[Psmall5]

Hi all,

 

I've been uming and aring and finally pulled the pin on this build.

 

(Not sure of the final name of it)

 

I've loved the look of the Tower 900 since the LTT vid on the top 5 crazy cases.

 

After watching the mod vids of the tower by JPModified, DeclassifiedSystems, and GGF my inspiration grew.

 

I'm hoping to timelapse the build and will post the vids etc.

 

 

Specs:

 

X470 GA Gaming 7

Ryzen 2700x

32gb Corsair Vengence LPX (2X16)

SLI iChill x4 1080ti 

2 NVME SSDS

Various data SSDS

Ax1200i

 

Watercooling gear:

 

Matt black BP fittings

Ek PT fittings

16mm BP hardline tube

Ek 1080ti blocks

Ek Supremacy Evo cpu block

Singularity Computers 250ml Res x2

Dual Singularity Computers mounts x2

Thermaltake Temp sensors x2

BP Revo D5s x2

Ek PE360 / PE480 Rad

Aerocool P7 Fans

 

Planning to start this build today.

 

Stay tuned for updates!

[dizmo]

I like where this is going...

What's the monitor choice?

[Psmall5]

@dizmo

 

Cheers, just waiting for Camera to charge then I can start. The little things right! 

 

Monitors at present are;

 

Dell 34" Curved (https://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/dell-ultrasharp-34-curved-ultrawide-monitor-u3415w/apd/210-adtr/monitors-monitor-accessories)

HP Z30I (http://www8.hp.com/au/en/products/monitors/product-detail.html?oid=5367292)

 

I can OC the Dell to 80-85hz so for gaming it works fine atm.

 

Maybe in the future upgrade it; but for now it can stay. 

[dizmo]

Nice! Honestly over 90fps isn't that much of an improvement anyway. The returns greatly diminish. Do you have them mounted to monitor arms?

After seeing my roommates set up with the monitor arms I got him for Christmas, I don't think I'd ever use stock stands again.

[Psmall5]

1 hour ago, dizmo said:

 

@dizmo

 

Perfect! Saves me 1500$

 

I cant remember the last time i've had a stock monitor mount.

I always found them either ugly or just took up too much desk space. 

 

Both are mounted on Vesa Mounts. To mount both the 34" and 30" on one mount; i had to get a triple 27" swing arm mount. I then had to remove the centre.

It was a challenge to get it balanced purely for the weight.

 

I ended up using stronger square washers and M6 bolts so I could secure them properly. 

Both monitors USB3 pass-through, so there's only like 6cables running through the mount. 

 

 

[dizmo]

Hahah, nice. You didn't want to just get two single mounts? That's what I did for my roommate; three singles, that way they could be placed wherever they fit best.

[Psmall5]

End of night one...

 

Case is stripped (i realised top fans are still in after i stopped....)

 

 

Theres no way to truly describe its size, you see it in videos but in person, its on a whole other level! 

 

Pros:

 

When they say its highly modular; they're damn right! Even to the point of being able to remove the power button. I was really hoping the top power/io piece could be modded or changed. Its one moulded piece of plastic. For others this could be done I'm sure; I'm not sure if im game enough...

 

Mb tray area:

 

This can be remade as one piece. All the mounting points line up. This means i can not only make a new mobo tray out of acyrlic, but it can be extended to the base of the case allowing for a clean and completely free build.

 

Ability to Mod:

 

From watching other modders on this case, and then looking at the case in person; its not as intimidating as i thought! 

 

Thermaltake Badge:

 

Having this just pop out, allows a builder to leave their 'stamp' on it. 

 

However I've got a few concerns thinking long term;

 

Plastic top cover:

 

I wouldn't want to be taking it off too many times. I can see the plugs snapping or getting damaged.

 

3.5" Hdd caddies:

 

They seem to be quite weak and flimsy and I may be wrong; i but i cant see any 2.5" mounts on them?

 

Stay tuned for more!

 

Next up: bench testing mb/cpu/ram and test fitting.

[Psmall5]

Update 

 

Have test fitted components and performed initial post test of new gear. 

 

I was concerned for a second as it seemed like the board wasnt posting; providing an 0d post code.

I was worried my LPX 2400 wasnt compatible with the x470 board. 

 

After a little time researching and consulting the interweb; it was either ram or vga.

Turns out my old test GPU was dead; so grabbed another old one and it posted fine.

 

At the end of this project i'll post a time-lapse incl bloopers.

 

I've ended for tonight; managed to measure and cut my acrylic sheet for the mobo tray. I've decided to extend it to the case floor for a seamless look.

I left a small gap just to make sure the tray and MB fit in etc

 

Still yet to drill the holes for the risers and mounting screws

 

 

 

Next was testing colors for the accent pieces of the case. 

 

 

At present; the current pieces will be painted;

 

Mobo Tray / back panel (This will be black matching the case)

Top I/O 

Bottom Shroud

Rad Mounts 

and potentially the air in-take panels. 

 

Please feel free to comment of other ideas etc. 

[Psmall5]

Success!

 

Custom tray is drilled and test fitted with mobo and pci card.

 

This was my first attempt at a custom tray in any system and was skeptical at my abilities to say the least!

 

Cudos to Thermaltake! I loved how the tray was removable, made things so much easier!!

 

Once i drilled the 4 marked holes on the acrylic panel i was then able to temporarily bolt acyrlic sheet to the tray. 

 

For the atx stand offs i didnt have a m3 tap so I 'poor mans' tapped it using a m3 screw.

 

Then it was time to mount with risers and motherboard

 

 

Its a very snug fit, and even without the mounting holes the panel wasnt going anywhere! 

 

Also, what do you think about the purple rad mount?

 

 

Let me know if you would change anything or have general comments.

 

Next up... cutting the roof out ready for pass through fittings!

[Psmall5]

Progress made...

 

Rad mounts are now painted and sealed. 

 

Roof has been cut. It needs some further prep mainly filing and sanding. 

I'm making a template out of cardboard and then applying to my acrylic sheet.

 

Outer panels have been undercoated and srayed. They need another coat of purple and then sealed clear.

I'm really happy with how they came out, with the lights behind the panel; they should really shine. 

 

(Sorry about the bad photo)

 

The middle housing has been cut and modded. Not shown in the pic; is the original top; which will be put back on its top.

It needs a little more filing; and leveling and then will receive the same purple treatment. 

Beside the housing I have made two acrylic inserts; which are a snug fit to the base.

They match the lines and shapes of the area, and took a couple of attempts to get right.

The D5 pumps will be mounted to the acrylic; not sure of exactly how I want to do this; but hopefully isn't too hard.

 

With ANY luck; i'll get some time tomorrow night to start the other roof cutout. 

 

Thanks for your time.

[TekRed]

Are you going to paint any of the acrylic?

[Psmall5]

@TekRed

 

Yea, I took the advice from GGF Events to use clear acrylic and then paint. It allows to see where and how the pass-throughs will work.

 

So far the following pieces will be painted;

 

MB Tray - Black (once pass through holes are drilled)

Bottom Inserts/D5 Mounts - Purple 

I'm toying with the idea, or laminating or contacting the bottom pieces so light would transmit through them. 

Thinking it might act like an under glow of sorts...

 

Top Insert - Black (once pass through holes are drilled) 

 

Finished one of two last night, took three attempts using cardboard templates to make it a tight fit. Still a little filing to do; but getting there!

 

 

 

Hoping to start/plan the other top section tonight.... 
. 

 

 

 

 

[TekRed]

3 hours ago, Psmall5 said:

@TekRed

 

Yea, I took the advice from GGF Events to use clear acrylic and then paint. It allows to see where and how the pass-throughs will work.

 

So far the following pieces will be painted;

 

MB Tray - Black (once pass through holes are drilled)

Bottom Inserts/D5 Mounts - Purple 

I'm toying with the idea, or laminating or contacting the bottom pieces so light would transmit through them. 

Thinking it might act like an under glow of sorts...

 

Top Insert - Black (once pass through holes are drilled) 

 

Finished one of two last night, took three attempts using cardboard templates to make it a tight fit. Still a little filing to do; but getting there!

 

 

 

Hoping to start/plan the other top section tonight.... 
. 

 

 

 

 

Very easy to do, paint the backside what ever color you want a logo or design to be then place a decal of the design on the top side then paint it black or whatever color you want then remove decal. Here's a few pieces I did for my build to give you an idea. 

[Psmall5]

1 hour ago, TekRed said:

Very easy to do, paint the backside what ever color you want a logo or design to be then place a decal of the design on the top side then paint it black or whatever color you want then remove decal. Here's a few pieces I did for my build to give you an idea. 

what did you use to make the Decal? I've seen a lot of people using vinyl printers; unfortunately i dont have 1

 

BTW, they look MINT

[TekRed]

25 minutes ago, Psmall5 said:

what did you use to make the Decal? I've seen a lot of people using vinyl printers; unfortunately i dont have 1

 

BTW, they look MINT

Thanks and yeah I actually have a vinyl cutter and make my own decals only because I couldn't find anyone near me in Japan that can make custom decals so I bought my own cutter. They aren't that expensive plus you could always sell decals as a side business to pay for the machine

[Psmall5]

Finally some more progress with this... between work, sport and family, there hasn't been time/energy to put into this. 

 

So first of all, I was able to test fit most of the tubes, which helped me mark holes for passthroughs etc.

 

Once I marked the holes, it was time to cut it out.

 

Most of the passthroughs were on acrylic so it went ok.

The two rear passthroughs for the rad tubes were in the steel; so I had to use a step drill bit and clean up the holes.

I started playing around with fittings for the top section and worked out most of the runs.

I found it easier to put the GPU connectors in parallel which will make the run back to the res a lot easier. 

After I test fitted as much as I could, it was time to prep and paint.

 

First up was the acrylic panels for the Pumps. I wanted to mount them on acyrlic instead of putting holes in the case.

The panels were cut to size, but also to allow for any bump or rise naturally on the case.

They are a very snug fit, and once you press them in; they wont move at all!

 

 

I cut out a base for the pump from acylic, the two pieces are held together with Sikaflex and tapping screws.

 

Next up was the custom panel for the mobo. This was the most challenging part. Knowing one error; i would need to start again!

Not going to lie, this was my 2nd panel.... 

 

Once i was happy with it, time to paint!  The cable holes still need a touch up prior to install.... 

The next on the painting block was the case/frame!

The case was wet sanded, and the pass through holes filed and smoothed out.

The large cut out for the acyrlic panel was cleaned up and prepped. It would be filled with the Panel below.

It has the pass throughs cut out. These will be for the runs in the top section of the case.

The notches on the side allow for screws/rivets by TT.

Once again, its a very snug fit.

The base color from TT was a matte black... I wanted it to match the purple gloss.

So only way was to paint again haha

 

First coat was an undercoat, it took an enitre can for the base coat; but set it up nicely for the black.

I went for a Satin black, once again took an entire can for the first coat.

All up it took about 2 of each to get the result i wanted.

 

Last layer for the case was a clear gloss, once again another two cans to do it properly.

The two cans gave about 3-4 solid coats.

 

Lastly was the top of the case. Once again i wanted it to shine.

It received the same treatment as the case/frame

.

 

I'm over the moon with how it turned out, no runs or blemishes in it... 

Since i had the cans out, i also put another couple of coats on the accent pieces of the case.

 

All thats left now is to wait for my final Bits Power order!

 

Feedback welcomed.

Thanks for taking an interest

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Psmall5]

Update: 

 

This has been a long time coming, there have been many good days and bad with this build. 

This is the most complex build i've attempted with regards to the pass through and the what seemed simple mods... 

 

However I was Wrong!

 

Mistake 1: snapped custom Mobo Tray as I was cutting final square out 

 

Mistake 2: First Loop Design - Was too intricate and flow even with two D5's was not working as i'd of liked 
 

          

 

 

Mistake 3: Snapped custom pass-through panel on roof of the case - no photo for this; I secured it too tight to the roof and it snapped adjacent to one of the screw holes.

 

Mistake 4: Forgot to plug a fitting on the roof of the case - water leaked through the roof and onto the GPU's 

 

Mistake 5: Installed M.2 in wrong slot, and had to drain the final loop design.... 

 

Mistake 6: Did not realise there was no O-Ring on one of roof fittings - drained once again!

 

Mistake 7: Dropping finished panels, and having to sand back and re-spray 

 

Positives:

 

1: Created new custom back Panel (this was the third attempt) 

With the advice from GGF Events, it was created from a single piece of 3mm acrylic 

It was then sprayed with a light coat of flat black.

    

Final and working Panel 

 

    

This was the Panel design that failed

 

Link: https://www.bunnings.com.au/white-knight-310g-gloss-squirts-flat-black_p1560604

 

I also realised, I could connect all the pass-throughs and reservoirs before installing it in the case. This was extremely helpful, as there was less than 2mm gap between the rear connections and where the rads mount on the side. I was very happy with how clean the connections were. 
 

          

I wanted there to be no visible connections for the top res, as it would be a flow point from where the cpu and GPU's connect

With the help of Singularity Computers Protium res tops I was able to do this. 

 

The res's were secured with 10mm m4 bolts with lock nuts on the rear of them

 

I also frosted a square piece of acrylic for where the 6 SSD's would be installed (more on this later)

 

2: Testing time! As i was only changing the loop layout on the custom panel, I did not have to touch the connections and pass-throughs in the roof.
 

         

 

The air release valve at the top would prove to be the best feature yet!

 

As mentioned in the mistakes, I had to drain this loop twice within an hour due to silly and tired mistakes. 

The air-release fitting from Bitspower came to the rescue, I connected a piece of soft tube to the top res, released the air and the GPU's drained within seconds! 

 

Time for her to come alive!!

 

With the water leaking over the GPU's earlier on this build, I was very nervous turning it on. Even though common sense told me it had been over a week.. and there was no water remaining, but still. 

 

  

Excuse the white tape... I was using it to protect the paint Job

I also have a TT Internal USB hub in the rear (not pictured)

FYI - cabling has not yet been attacked

 

Whats left to do...

 

1: create custom Cables, i received my mod-diy connectors yesterday 

2: replace Sata leads with shorter (40cm is far too long as you can see)

3: Remove tape

4: Mount Phanteks strips along the bottom 

5: Re-cable and tidy 

6: Reinstall windows 

 

I'll post up final Pic's once the cables have been made and re-organised... 

Happy to take any comments / suggestions or questions.

 

Thanks for looking.