Jump to content
Search In
  • More options...
Find results that contain...
Find results in...

Emilerk

Member
  • Content Count

    19
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Awards

This user doesn't have any awards

About Emilerk

  • Title
    Newbie
  1. You says there's no reason to assume that, but your talking from the perspective of someone who is interested and knowledgeable about this stuff and talk about it on forum and more, of course you know the efficiency rating is not a gauge of quality and you know all the variables that makes a good psu good. But try to understand coming from someone that just want to buy a good psu to build a PC and doesn't care about how it works, that just watch YouTube's videos, a few reviews, and that every time they look at a good psu online they all have gold or platinum efficiency rating + a price in a ce
  2. Well that's a little much. Last time I had to buy a psu I did my research and bought the EVGA 650w G2. it had good reviews and was 80+ gold. Now fast forward to the 3080 launch, I learn that my psu won't be enough, i check on the web, there was only a 20$ difference between the GA and the G5 model of 80+ gold and no review at the time on the GA since it was new.... I took a chance thinking it would be fine since it's more recent than the other G5 and just a little cheaper too. If at the time I saw anything on the GA I wouldn'T had bought it for sure and would had took the g5 or something else
  3. Well it clearly should, you can't put gold and platinum rating for efficiency and not expect people to assume it means it's quality (better efficiency = better quality), I get it it's not like that.... So well, there's absolutly no way to know if a PSU is good enough beside looking in forums for people that tested it? that's rediculous.
  4. I feel you're intentionnaly missing the point here. I keep talking about the gold rating, because, for someone that's doesn't know in details how psu work and shit. Its the only recognasable metric to know if a psu is good or not, bronze, silver, gold, platinum. simple enough. So until now, I simply assume gold psu = pretty good, platinum = the best. etc So when you see a gold 850w psu, you should'nt have any more question that can't be easily answered on the product page like "will it be enough for the transient spikes of my 3080" with gold the answer should simply be YES, and like bronze or
  5. You mean, in your own opinion, you sure the moment i change cpu for let's say, a ryzen 5900x, my PSU won't be enough and I'll get shutdowns?
  6. Well defective is what I call a 200$CAD psu advertised at 850w gold+ that can't keep up with normal part that would be used with it. I mean who else buy 850w psu than people buying almost top of the line cpu and gpu? You can't expect people to know about "transient spikes" and search on forums to find the most efficient psu and the like, I mean, I am an "advanced" user I would say, i build my own pc since 2007, and I had no idea that a 850w gold psu could sometimes not sustain the 850w and might not be enough for a gpu that is supposed to be good with 750w.
  7. I mean, it's not supposed to shutdown pc underload, and 3080 is advertised as needed 750w, so yeah I feel the recall could be warranted for a gold+ rated 850w psu. motherboard : Aorus z390 pro I'll try Prime 95 ! EDIT : Just did, 9900k @ 4,68ghz, prime 95 running + 4k furmark test completed, space bar a few time, no instability problem, no shutdown. So clearly for now it seem fine, but it's clearly for the futur with a new cpu, should I still contact evga, or since my unit seemed fine for now there is no point?
  8. Hi guys, This might be kind of a stupid question, but all the report of this powersupply, that I have, shutting down systems underload that have the latest gen intel/amd cpus and 3080/90 gpu has me kinda worried. Should I contact EVGA support, see if they're doing a recall for it or something? I have a 9900k and a gigabyte gaming oc 3080. I did some 4k video export, and some gaming (black ops cold war) and juste now tried Furmark, and so far so good, no sign of instability or anything, no shutdown, so for now I think i'm good? But I plan in 2021 to ugrade my cpu and I'm
  9. Hi, So i have an old Samsung AV-R720 that always had problem with sound cutting out for half a sec and coming back with 5.1 source. And now The front right channel crapped out with statics and crackling sound (verified with different speakers, it's the amp, and a common problem). So I'm looking to replace that amp for a new one. The thing is, I have all the 5.1 speakers installed with the wire and all, and i'm not an audiophile or anything, i just want decent surround sound. So ideally I would like to keep the same Samsung speakers that still fonction well that came with the orgin
  10. If anyone read this and need a solution : I was able to bypass the intel anti-theft by reseting the bios by unplugging my cmos battery AND short-circuit the two jumper caps next to the cmos with a screwdriver. After the that my computer booted normally to windows. So yeah, lucky me, but fuck that program jeez
  11. No, Always heard bad thing about Asus support, and since it's 7 years old i didn't really count on it + McAfee did write that their support staff can't access your pasword and that was when the software was still supported... I'm really SOL, since friday i tried different things without success, last one would be to desolder the internal iSSD and remove it see if it helps...
  12. Oh my data isn't the problem. I had nothing sensitive saved on the SSD of the laptop. And I had no problem accessing the files on that SSD when I plug it on my main pc. So to be clear : -My laptop had an after market SSD in it witch had windows 10 installed on it. I removed it from my laptop and connected to my other pc, no issues to access the data. -When I open my laptop WITHOUT the SSD with windows 10 on it, it still opens straight to the Intel Anti-theft page, can't acces the bios to change boot order or anything else. So even If I format the ssd the laptop would still be locked
  13. So As I feared. I removed the ssd with the OS from the laptop, (after market, replaced the original hdd). And as I feared, even without the SSD in it, the computer is still locked with this fucking bullshit. So I guess they were right the only way would be to change the motherboard, witch means, throw the laptop in the garbage?
  14. Oh ok great! I guess I'll test it anyway but you sure? From what I read on some Dell support forum, if you don't have the master password you have to replace the harddrive and the motherboard (witch is something I can't do on a laptop obviously) to be able to use it again. So If I can just pop it in my main computer format it and be done with it that would be great, and then reinstall windows. But I don't see how I can change the boot order on the laptop since I really dont have time for that, it's straight up the anti-theft windows as soon as I power it on, nothing else. Also knowing that I'
  15. Hi, So heres my problem, Yesterday i plugged my laptop for the night because i was planning to use it today during a planned power outage on my street. I didn't unplug the laptop before the power went out. When it did, i grabbed my laptop and opened it, and as soon as I hit the powerbutton I get a beautiful dos-like page that tell me my laptop is locked by Intel Anti-theft due to : "platform attack detected" ?????? Of course I couldn't remember what that fucking password was so I was sol for using my laptop fo today. Now, with the power back on, I could acces my main pc where I had
×