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Newly built PC stuck in boot loop

Hello all,

I just built myself a new pc and it works fine with no issues, except for the fact that on boot it loops a few times before starting. My specs are as follows:

  • AMD Ryzen 5 1600
  • Zotac GeForce GTX 1080 Mini
  • Corsair Vengeance 16GB DDR4 3000MHz
  • Silverstone ML08 case
  • Corsair SF450 PSU
  • 512GB NVME SSD

Thanks for the help

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Anything overclocked? If so, reset to stock and retest.

PC Specs - AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D MSI B550M Mortar - 32GB Corsair Vengeance RGB DDR4-3600 @ CL16 - ASRock RX7800XT 660p 1TBGB & Crucial P5 1TB Fractal Define Mini C CM V750v2 - Windows 11 Pro

 

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2 minutes ago, BritScout said:

Hello all,

I just built myself a new pc and it works fine with no issues, except for the fact that on boot it loops a few times before starting. My specs are as follows:

  • AMD Ryzen 5 1600
  • Zotac GeForce GTX 1080 Mini
  • Corsair Vengeance 16GB DDR4 3000MHz
  • Silverstone ML08 case
  • Corsair SF450 PSU
  • 512GB NVME SSD

Thanks for the help

Could it be the PSU being too weak? 450 seems a bit low for those specs

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Seems like a PSU issue. 450 is like bottleneck. 500w is recommended by Nvidia for a Founder's Edition card.

 

So, get something big like a 550 or more. I'd get 650 just to be safe for room for overclocking.

Intel Core i3 2100 @ 3.10GHz - Intel Stock Cooler - Zotac Geforce GT 610 2GB Synergy Edition

Intel DH61WW - Corsair® Value Select 4GBx1 DDR3 1600 MHz - Antec BP-300P PSU

WD Green 1TB - Seagate 2.5" HDD 1TB - Seagate Barracuda 500GB - Antec X1 E.

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Mainboard? Any post code. Try with one ram stick

|| CPU: I7 6950X @4.6 (1.35V) || Cooler: CUSTOM EK LOOP || Motherboard: ASUS RAMPAGE V EDITION 10

|| GPU: 2x Vega 64 Strix OC @1762 / 1100 MHz || Memory: 16GB G.Skill Royal RGB 3200 Mhz ||

HDD: Segate Barracuda 3TB || SSD: Samsung 970 Evo 512 GB || PSU: Corsair HX 1200 W || Case: Fractal Design Define R6 Gunmetal || Fans: Corsair HD120 (x4) / BeQuiet Silent Wings 3 (x4) || Monitor: ACER XF27HU ||

Second Monitor: BENQ RL2455HM || Mouse: Logitech G502 Pretus Core || Keyboard: Logitech G810 Orion Spectrum || Headphones: Sennheiser IE80 ||

 

                                                                                                          Buildlog expirience swapping to x99: 

 

 

 

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1 minute ago, kameshss said:

Seems like a PSU issue. 450 is like bottleneck. 500w is recommended by Nvidia for a Founder's Edition card.

 

So, get something big like a 550 or more. I'd get 650 just to be safe for room for overclocking.

Yeah but it should boot with 450 whatsoever

|| CPU: I7 6950X @4.6 (1.35V) || Cooler: CUSTOM EK LOOP || Motherboard: ASUS RAMPAGE V EDITION 10

|| GPU: 2x Vega 64 Strix OC @1762 / 1100 MHz || Memory: 16GB G.Skill Royal RGB 3200 Mhz ||

HDD: Segate Barracuda 3TB || SSD: Samsung 970 Evo 512 GB || PSU: Corsair HX 1200 W || Case: Fractal Design Define R6 Gunmetal || Fans: Corsair HD120 (x4) / BeQuiet Silent Wings 3 (x4) || Monitor: ACER XF27HU ||

Second Monitor: BENQ RL2455HM || Mouse: Logitech G502 Pretus Core || Keyboard: Logitech G810 Orion Spectrum || Headphones: Sennheiser IE80 ||

 

                                                                                                          Buildlog expirience swapping to x99: 

 

 

 

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12 minutes ago, Supportsneedlove said:

Could it be the PSU being too weak? 450 seems a bit low for those specs

My 1080Ti and 6700K draw well under 450. 450 is fine for a regular ol' 1080 and ryzen 5.

 

OP, is your BIOS up to date? What about ram speeds? Even with the latest bios, my brother's ryzen PC behaved this way with OC'd RAM, stock was fine. The updates certainly helped though.

 

 

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10 minutes ago, iamdarkyoshi said:

My 1080Ti and 6700K draw well under 450. 450 is fine for a regular ol' 1080 and ryzen 5.

 

OP, is your BIOS up to date? What about ram speeds? Even with the latest bios, my brother's ryzen PC behaved this way with OC'd RAM, stock was fine. The updates certainly helped though.

 

 

Everything is on default speeds except RAM, which I OC'd to 3000MHz, I'll try resetting it to 2166MHz. I'm not sure if my BIOS is up to date, I'll check.

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30 minutes ago, BritScout said:

Hello all,

I just built myself a new pc and it works fine with no issues, except for the fact that on boot it loops a few times before starting. My specs are as follows:

  • AMD Ryzen 5 1600
  • Zotac GeForce GTX 1080 Mini
  • Corsair Vengeance 16GB DDR4 3000MHz
  • Silverstone ML08 case
  • Corsair SF450 PSU
  • 512GB NVME SSD

Thanks for the help

Motherboard is ASRock AB350 Gaming-ITX/ac

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I rmmb having this issue with my pc, I had forgotten to change the bios setting to AHCI for storage and it resulted in windows boot loop.

 

Check to see if thats the issue

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15 hours ago, iamdarkyoshi said:

My 1080Ti and 6700K draw well under 450. 450 is fine for a regular ol' 1080 and ryzen 5.

 

OP, is your BIOS up to date? What about ram speeds? Even with the latest bios, my brother's ryzen PC behaved this way with OC'd RAM, stock was fine. The updates certainly helped though.

 

 

Ok removing the RAM oc seems to have worked, but will I be able to put it back to 3000MHz? The default RAM speed is 2133MHz, right? My RAM kit advertises 3000MHz.

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2 hours ago, BritScout said:

Ok removing the RAM oc seems to have worked, but will I be able to put it back to 3000MHz? The default RAM speed is 2133MHz, right? My RAM kit advertises 3000MHz.

My brother's Ryzen PC ran fine at 2400, bootlooped but booted at 2666, and wouldn't even POST at 3,000MHz.

 

Ryzen is extremely picky about ram at anything above stock speeds, so I'm afraid you might have to drop your clocks down from 3,000MHz if you want to avoid bootlooping.

 

Or wait and hope that a bios update is released soon that helps improve stability at higher clocks. 

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On 06/04/2018 at 3:00 AM, iamdarkyoshi said:

My brother's Ryzen PC ran fine at 2400, bootlooped but booted at 2666, and wouldn't even POST at 3,000MHz.

 

Ryzen is extremely picky about ram at anything above stock speeds, so I'm afraid you might have to drop your clocks down from 3,000MHz if you want to avoid bootlooping.

 

Or wait and hope that a bios update is released soon that helps improve stability at higher clocks. 

So I bought 3,000MHz RAM for nothing? Well crap. At least I know for next time hey?

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42 minutes ago, BritScout said:

So I bought 3,000MHz RAM for nothing? Well crap. At least I know for next time hey?

Perhaps after a BIOS update or 2 it may have better support but Ryzen chips aren't known for playing well with RAM running over 2400 speeds. It may be possible by adjusting your clocks but I would not recommend that unless you're experienced or do a LOT of research to see some good/safe methods for adjusting your CLK speeds. At best you may be able to get it to run at 2666 but your safe bet is to run it at 2400 until you catch a BIOS update that allows for faster speeds per the changelog. Also, I'd suggest keeping an eye on forums to see if anyone else has had some luck at any point running at speeds over 2400 and note what their particular motherboard/RAM combo used is. Ryzen isn't only picky about speeds, it's picky about the type of RAM used as well, just like certain Intel chips aren't too friendly with RAM that is designed to run higher than 1.5v.

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1 hour ago, BritScout said:

So I bought 3,000MHz RAM for nothing? Well crap. At least I know for next time hey?

My brother bought 3,000mhz ram that was right on the board's official supported ram, and it still didn't work at 3,000mhz. However, its getting closer every time a bios update is released.

 

I'm going to tag @Straxxus as he's gotten ram running at the desired speed before on ryzen, there's a couple tweaks to make that will help, but I forgot what they were.

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15 hours ago, BritScout said:

So I bought 3,000MHz RAM for nothing? Well crap. At least I know for next time hey?

I know this may be a long shot and I am not trying to question your intelligence, but did you manually change the timing of the ram in the bios or did you simply just select the rams auto detect settings? 

Just i have also had this issue with my ram and the only way for me to get it running is for me to manually select the MHz i required then manually change the timing.

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On 4/5/2018 at 4:45 AM, iamdarkyoshi said:

My 1080Ti and 6700K draw well under 450. 450 is fine for a regular ol' 1080 and ryzen 5.

 

OP, is your BIOS up to date? What about ram speeds? Even with the latest bios, my brother's ryzen PC behaved this way with OC'd RAM, stock was fine. The updates certainly helped though.

 

 

Being even close to your max wattage is still really bad.

You want at least like a 150-200 watt buffer.

If your max wattage is 450, you want around a 600watt PSU for example.

Wattage isn't everything either.

A cheaper power supply could be weaker in a bunch of other areas too like the 12v rails that could effect things and since having a PSU blow can take out every other component in your system, it's always advisable NOT to cheap out on the PSU. To always get something that's a little bit more than what you need and is at least 80+ bronze.

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On 4/5/2018 at 4:27 AM, BritScout said:

Hello all,

I just built myself a new pc and it works fine with no issues, except for the fact that on boot it loops a few times before starting. My specs are as follows:

  • AMD Ryzen 5 1600
  • Zotac GeForce GTX 1080 Mini
  • Corsair Vengeance 16GB DDR4 3000MHz
  • Silverstone ML08 case
  • Corsair SF450 PSU
  • 512GB NVME SSD

Thanks for the help

Do a memory test.

Install memtest86 to a flash drive and boot to it.

Run it for 24 hours and if there's even a single error, there's an issue with your ram.

https://www.memtest86.com/download.htm

 

I agree with everyone saying it's the PSU though. It really sounds like it to me too.

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39 minutes ago, stateofpsychosis said:

Being even close to your max wattage is still really bad.

You want at least like a 150-200 watt buffer.

If your max wattage is 450, you want around a 600watt PSU for example.

Wattage isn't everything either.

A cheaper power supply could be weaker in a bunch of other areas too like the 12v rails that could effect things and since having a PSU blow can take out every other component in your system, it's always advisable NOT to cheap out on the PSU. To always get something that's a little bit more than what you need and is at least 80+ bronze.

A good power supply will have the buffer built into the ratings. I've got a dell server power supply that will comfortably run 900w even though its only a 750w unit. 

 

The cheap supplies often lack overload protection, and sometimes blow up rather than just shutting down, but OP's power supply is a very well built unit. Literally the only thing jonnyguru could complain about is the power cable being a ribbon...

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41 minutes ago, iamdarkyoshi said:

A good power supply will have the buffer built into the ratings. I've got a dell server power supply that will comfortably run 900w even though its only a 750w unit. 

 

The cheap supplies often lack overload protection, and sometimes blow up rather than just shutting down, but OP's power supply is a very well built unit. Literally the only thing jonnyguru could complain about is the power cable being a ribbon...

I've had power supplies that were supposed to be good blow on me so I don't know about that.

I wouldn't be so confident,

because when it comes down to it.. we're talking about a 20-30 dollar difference in price to make sure your system doesn't completely self-destruct on you.

I'd say that's worth it.

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 4/11/2018 at 12:43 PM, ToxicTexas said:

I know this may be a long shot and I am not trying to question your intelligence, but did you manually change the timing of the ram in the bios or did you simply just select the rams auto detect settings? 

Just i have also had this issue with my ram and the only way for me to get it running is for me to manually select the MHz i required then manually change the timing.

Yes, I manually changed the clock speed in the BIOS.

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On 4/12/2018 at 4:30 PM, stateofpsychosis said:

Being even close to your max wattage is still really bad.

You want at least like a 150-200 watt buffer.

If your max wattage is 450, you want around a 600watt PSU for example.

Wattage isn't everything either.

A cheaper power supply could be weaker in a bunch of other areas too like the 12v rails that could effect things and since having a PSU blow can take out every other component in your system, it's always advisable NOT to cheap out on the PSU. To always get something that's a little bit more than what you need and is at least 80+ bronze.

My PSU is a Corsair SF450 with 80+ Gold efficiency.

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