Mechanical switches semi-problem

[Bulbucel]

Hi guys !

 

I recently got myself my first mechanical keyboard. I actually received as a gift from a friend because he got a new one.

The thing is, the space bar and the arrows are not working. 

 

So, after a few minutes on google, I've found the "cleaning" method to work. One drop of water, together with some push from a compressed air duster and the keys were back. 

However, they are back for half a day mostly and then they don't respond again. I do the same procedure and they are back again. 

My problem is that I don't want to do this every time I game (once per day for like 1 hour). 

 

Is there another practical solution to fix this? Should I open it and try something inside it?

I'm open to suggestion and any help will be much appreciated. 

Thank you in advance!

 

(Note: the keyboard is an entry level one with brown switches from a romanian brand - I think - Marvo KG922, if it is of any help)

 

[minibois]

If I were you, I would take the keyboard apart and see what is the issue.

Note: opening it up usually requires getting to screws that are sometimes under stickers and such, so only attempt this if the keyboard is not under warranty anymore. It might also require switch desoldering.

 

The issues is likely in one of two parts, the first more likely than the latter:

1. there is something inside of the switch that is causing this

2. the switch is not properly soldered to the board.

[Holyghost23]

go to ebay.. search IBM model M.. problem solved for the next 20 years.. bucking spring.. is the masterpiece of mechanical, stop with peasant sheet metal fakes.

[Bulbucel]

55 minutes ago, Minibois said:

If I were you, I would take the keyboard apart and see what is the issue.

Note: opening it up usually requires getting to screws that are sometimes under stickers and such, so only attempt this if the keyboard is not under warranty anymore. It might also require switch desoldering.

 

The issues is likely in one of two parts, the first more likely than the latter:

1. there is something inside of the switch that is causing this

2. the switch is not properly soldered to the board.

Firstly, thanks for the quick reply. 

 

I'm OK with opening it up, it doesn't have warranty anymore.

My thoughts are exactly the same as your first suggested issue, that there is something inside the switch.

I will open the keyboard up, but I don't know how to open the switch (it might sound dumb but as I said, it's my first contact with such a mechanism).

On the internet I saw that if I open the keyboard (unscrew it) I still can not see inside the switch (I may be wrong, that's why I'm here).

 

Again, thank you for your fast answer, I'm looking forward to your reply.

[minibois]

2 minutes ago, Bulbucel said:

Firstly, thanks for the quick reply. 

 

I'm OK with opening it up, it doesn't have warranty anymore.

My thoughts are exactly the same as your first suggested issue, that there is something inside the switch.

I will open the keyboard up, but I don't know how to open the switch (it might sound dumb but as I said, it's my first contact with such a mechanism).

On the internet I saw that if I open the keyboard (unscrew it) I still can not see inside the switch (I may be wrong, that's why I'm here).

 

Again, thank you for your fast answer, I'm looking forward to your reply.

You will likely have to open up the keyswitches affected.

Do you happen to know what switches it uses? I can't find much info online. If you don't know, take off a keycap and check if there is any writing just next to the stem (the part which moves down). It's likely a Cherry MX clone switch, in which case you would take it apart like this:

I'm afraid I am not sure if you have to unsolder the switches to perform this action.

[Bulbucel]

1 hour ago, Minibois said:

You will likely have to open up the keyswitches affected.

Do you happen to know what switches it uses? I can't find much info online. If you don't know, take off a keycap and check if there is any writing just next to the stem (the part which moves down). It's likely a Cherry MX clone switch, in which case you would take it apart like this:

I'm afraid I am not sure if you have to unsolder the switches to perform this action.

The switches are Outemu Brown. 

I'm going to to look over the video you have sent and maybe I find something about exactly my switches. 

Hope I don't get to unsolder them. 

Thanks again for your work. 

[geo3]

5 minutes ago, Bulbucel said:

The switches are Outemu Brown. 

I'm going to to look over the video you have sent and maybe I find something about exactly my switches. 

Hope I don't get to unsolder them. 

Thanks again for your work. 

I don't think Outemus open like that. Also if you have LEDs that go through the switch you'd have to desolder those first. 

[Bulbucel]

4 minutes ago, geo3 said:

I don't think Outemus open like that. Also if you have LEDs that go through the switch you'd have to desolder those first. 

Yeah, I was doing now some reading on how to open outemus and it looks like I got to desolder them. And yes... I have LEDs through the switch. Any tips on desoldering outemus? Can't find any video about and I have no clue on what this implies. Or is it like desoldering cherrys? Either way, still clueless... 

[geo3]

5 hours ago, Bulbucel said:

Yeah, I was doing now some reading on how to open outemus and it looks like I got to desolder them. And yes... I have LEDs through the switch. Any tips on desoldering outemus? Can't find any video about and I have no clue on what this implies. Or is it like desoldering cherrys? Either way, still clueless... 

Just desoldering in general. It's all pretty much the same.