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check out my pc build II

sup dudes, i have a question, check out my pc *i still havent built it*

 

Im trying to keep this as budget friendly as possible 

 

PSU

 

EVGA 450 BT, 80+ Bronze 450W, 3 Year Warranty, Power Supply 100-BT-0450-K1  (is evga 400w enough?)

Mouse

 

SteelSeries Rival 100, Optical Gaming Mouse - Black 

SSD

 

Silicon Power 120GB SSD 3D NAND With Read Up To 550MB/s S55 TLC 7mm (0.28") Internal Solid State Drive (SP120GBSS3S55S25AE) 

GPU

 

ZOTAC GeForce GTX 1060 Mini 3GB GDDR5 VR Ready Super Compact Gaming Graphics Card (ZT-P10610A-10L) 

KEYBOARD

 

SteelSeries Apex 100 Gaming Keyboard, Blue LED Backlit 

CPU

 

AMD Ryzen 3 1200 Desktop Processor with Wraith Stealth Cooler (YD1200BBAEBOX)

MOTHERBOARD

 

GIGABYTE GA-AB350-Gaming 3 AMD RYZEN AM4 B350 RGB Fusion Smart Fan 5 HDMI1.4 M.2 SATA 6Gbps USB 3.1 Type-A ATX DDR4 Motherboard 

RAM

Timetec Hynix IC 8GB DDR4 2133MHz PC4-17000 Non ECC Unbuffered 1.2V CL15 2Rx8 Dual Rank 288 Pin UDIMM Desktop PC Computer Memory Ram Module Upgrade (8GB) 

 CASE

 

ROSEWILL Micro ATX Mini Tower Computer Case, Office Computer Case with 1x 80mm Rear Fan, Top I/O Access with USB 3.0 x 1, USB 2.0 x 2, Audio In/Out and Support CPU Cooler up to 140mm (SCM-01 

Hard Drive

Seagate 1TB BarraCuda SATA 6Gb/s 32MB Cache 3.5-Inch Internal Hard Drive (ST1000DM010) 

 

what do yall think, also instead of the seagate barracuda, i have a wd my passport 1tb external hard drive, if i plug that shit instead in usb 3.0 will it work good?

 

 

 

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That PSU sucks. Among 80+ Bronze or below rated PSU from EVGA, the B2 is the only one that's acceptable. Swap that.

 

ATX motherboard will not fit into an mATX case.

 

Personally bad experience with Seagate drives, lost 4 of them in the past out of 5. Plugging in an external one with USB 3 will be slower than internal onrs with SATA.

 

 

CPU: i7-2600K 4751MHz 1.44V (software) --> 1.47V at the back of the socket Motherboard: Asrock Z77 Extreme4 (BCLK: 103.3MHz) CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 RAM: Adata XPG 2x8GB DDR3 (XMP: 2133MHz 10-11-11-30 CR2, custom: 2203MHz 10-11-10-26 CR1 tRFC:230 tREFI:14000) GPU: Asus GTX 1070 Dual (Super Jetstream vbios, +70(2025-2088MHz)/+400(8.8Gbps)) SSD: Samsung 840 Pro 256GB (main boot drive), Transcend SSD370 128GB PSU: Seasonic X-660 80+ Gold Case: Antec P110 Silent, 5 intakes 1 exhaust Monitor: AOC G2460PF 1080p 144Hz (150Hz max w/ DP, 121Hz max w/ HDMI) TN panel Keyboard: Logitech G610 Orion (Cherry MX Blue) with SteelSeries Apex M260 keycaps Mouse: BenQ Zowie FK1

 

Model: HP Omen 17 17-an110ca CPU: i7-8750H (0.125V core & cache, 50mV SA undervolt) GPU: GTX 1060 6GB Mobile (+80/+450, 1650MHz~1750MHz 0.78V~0.85V) RAM: 8+8GB DDR4-2400 18-17-17-39 2T Storage: HP EX920 1TB PCIe x4 M.2 SSD + Crucial MX500 1TB 2.5" SATA SSD, 128GB Toshiba PCIe x2 M.2 SSD (KBG30ZMV128G) gone cooking externally, 1TB Seagate 7200RPM 2.5" HDD (ST1000LM049-2GH172) left outside Monitor: 1080p 126Hz IPS G-sync

 

Desktop benching:

Cinebench R15 Single thread:168 Multi-thread: 833 

SuperPi (v1.5 from Techpowerup, PI value output) 16K: 0.100s 1M: 8.255s 32M: 7m 45.93s

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Aim for a better power supply.

 

Try to go with a DDR4 memory stick that can do AT LEAST 2400 Mhz, ideally 2667 Mhz or higher.  Ryzen processors really benefit from faster memory.

Agree with ATX motherboard not fitting into a mATX case.

 

You'd be better off delaying the purchase of a SSD to put a few dollars on the power supply and a few dollars on the memory, because you can survive running the computer and operating system from your mechanical drive for a month or so until you can put aside more money for SSD... people did that before SSDs were invented and nobody died.

I'd also suggest going with some MLC based SSD because of higher endurance and bigger warranties (ideally m.2 and nvme since you have the higher speed connection directly to the cpu, but m.2 sata or regular SATA will work just as well)

 

I'm also not a great fan of Seagate drives, on the low end I'd rather go with WD Blue or HGST (which are owned by WD anyway and they're slowly integrated into WD's lineup)

 

If you say the online stores from where you can purchase stuff, maybe we can suggest some parts  (except maybe case, which is imho kinda subjective)

 

edit:  How many watts will you need?

 

A GTX 1060 uses up to 125 watts.

A Ryzen 3 1200 uses up to 40-50 watts before overclocking. If you're gonna overclock it to 3.9-4ghz, you'll get maybe to around 60-65w.

A mechanical drive uses up to 5-8 watts and a SSD uses up to 2-3 watts (over time, because it uses almost nothing when reading, but up to 10w when writing to memory chips)

The motherboard uses maybe 15-30 watts (the onboard audio, network, chipset)

RAM uses 2-3 watts per memory stick. Fans use around 2 watts.

Keyboard and mouse uses maybe less than 1 watts each.

 

So your system as is will use less than 300 watts when you're gaming making even a 400w power supply more than enough, but go for a quality 450-520w power supply and you'll be fine.

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47 minutes ago, mariushm said:

Aim for a better power supply.

 

Try to go with a DDR4 memory stick that can do AT LEAST 2400 Mhz, ideally 2667 Mhz or higher.  Ryzen processors really benefit from faster memory.

Agree with ATX motherboard not fitting into a mATX case.

 

You'd be better off delaying the purchase of a SSD to put a few dollars on the power supply and a few dollars on the memory, because you can survive running the computer and operating system from your mechanical drive for a month or so until you can put aside more money for SSD... people did that before SSDs were invented and nobody died.

I'd also suggest going with some MLC based SSD because of higher endurance and bigger warranties (ideally m.2 and nvme since you have the higher speed connection directly to the cpu, but m.2 sata or regular SATA will work just as well)

 

I'm also not a great fan of Seagate drives, on the low end I'd rather go with WD Blue or HGST (which are owned by WD anyway and they're slowly integrated into WD's lineup)

 

If you say the online stores from where you can purchase stuff, maybe we can suggest some parts  (except maybe case, which is imho kinda subjective)

 

 

whats a good budget psu, i dont care about future proof, but if you found a good, cheap future proof one, im happy

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Again, it depends on where you live. What may be cheap and good in US may not be available in Australia for example, and some brands in Europe are not available in US or are much cheaper.

Can't figure out where you're from based on your posts so I'm just gonna assume US.

 

Here's some good choices, from cheapest (without mail-in rebates) to not so cheap but solid even great choices :

 

40$ : SeaSonic S12II 430B 430W ATX12V / EPS12V 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Active PFC Power Supply - 430w (360w on 12v) , 5y warranty, japanese components, a bit old design but quality components

45$ : SeaSonic S12II 520 Bronze 520W ATX12V V2.3 / EPS 12V V2.91 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Active PFC Power Supply  - same as above but more power on 12v (480w) , 5 year warranty, quality parts inside

 

47$ (27$ if 20$ extra mail-in rebate goes through) : Corsair CX-M CX450M 450w - more modern design, semi-modular, dc-dc conversion for 3.3v and 5v, great deal if the mail-in rebate goes through (but discount only available for 2 more days on Newegg)

 

52$ (32$ if the 20$ mail-in rebate goes through) - Antec EA-550 550w Bronze efficiency - probably made by Delta or FSP either way it's very OK design, very good value for price but not modular or semi-modular unlike Corsair CX-M (all cables conencted permanently) and just 3 year warranty (5year on CX-M)

 

55$ ( 35$ if the 20$ mail-in rebate goes through)  CORSAIR CX-M Series CX550M 550W 80 PLUS BRONZE Haswell Ready ATX12V & EPS12V Semi-Modular Power Supply -  same as above but 550w model

 

60$  ( 45$ with 15$ mail-in rebate)  = Seasonic FOCUS series SSR-550FM 550W 80 + Gold Power Supply, Semi-Modular, ATX12V/EPS12V, Compact 140 mm Size, 7 yr warranty - GOLD efficiency, semi modular, 7 year warranty, great deal if the rebate goes through

 

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1 hour ago, mariushm said:

Again, it depends on where you live. What may be cheap and good in US may not be available in Australia for example, and some brands in Europe are not available in US or are much cheaper.

Can't figure out where you're from based on your posts so I'm just gonna assume US.

 

Here's some good choices, from cheapest (without mail-in rebates) to not so cheap but solid even great choices :

 

40$ : SeaSonic S12II 430B 430W ATX12V / EPS12V 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Active PFC Power Supply - 430w (360w on 12v) , 5y warranty, japanese components, a bit old design but quality components

45$ : SeaSonic S12II 520 Bronze 520W ATX12V V2.3 / EPS 12V V2.91 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Active PFC Power Supply  - same as above but more power on 12v (480w) , 5 year warranty, quality parts inside

 

47$ (27$ if 20$ extra mail-in rebate goes through) : Corsair CX-M CX450M 450w - more modern design, semi-modular, dc-dc conversion for 3.3v and 5v, great deal if the mail-in rebate goes through (but discount only available for 2 more days on Newegg)

 

52$ (32$ if the 20$ mail-in rebate goes through) - Antec EA-550 550w Bronze efficiency - probably made by Delta or FSP either way it's very OK design, very good value for price but not modular or semi-modular unlike Corsair CX-M (all cables conencted permanently) and just 3 year warranty (5year on CX-M)

 

55$ ( 35$ if the 20$ mail-in rebate goes through)  CORSAIR CX-M Series CX550M 550W 80 PLUS BRONZE Haswell Ready ATX12V & EPS12V Semi-Modular Power Supply -  same as above but 550w model

 

60$  ( 45$ with 15$ mail-in rebate)  = Seasonic FOCUS series SSR-550FM 550W 80 + Gold Power Supply, Semi-Modular, ATX12V/EPS12V, Compact 140 mm Size, 7 yr warranty - GOLD efficiency, semi modular, 7 year warranty, great deal if the rebate goes through

 

Ok, thanks to you, ive changed my build, check it out!

the only things ive changed are the HDD, PSU and case

 

HDD

 

WD Blue 1TB SATA 6 Gb/s 7200 RPM 64MB Cache 3.5 Inch Desktop Hard Drive (WD10EZEX)

 

PSU

 

 

Corsair CX Series 450 Watt 80 Plus Bronze Certified Modular Power Supply (CP-9020101-NA)

 

Computer case

 

 

MasterBox Lite 5 ATX Mid-Tower Case with Dark Mirror Front Panel, Acrylic side panel, Customizable trim colors

 

Edited by Quintavious V
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Looks good.

Make sure it's CX-M and not the older and lesser quality CX series. The code (CP-9020101-NA) matches the CX-M series but best to double check.

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5 minutes ago, mariushm said:

Looks good.

Make sure it's CX-M and not the older and lesser quality CX series. The code (CP-9020101-NA) matches the CX-M series but best to double check.

First of all, its not CX-M 

Second of all, idk if it ships to my location so can you list me a good evga psu? thanks

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13 minutes ago, Quintavious V said:
14 minutes ago, Quintavious V said:

First of all, its not CX-M 

Second of all, idk if it ships to my location so can you list me a good evga psu? thanks

 

27 minutes ago, mariushm said:

Looks good.

Make sure it's CX-M and not the older and lesser quality CX series. The code (CP-9020101-NA) matches the CX-M series but best to double check.

Ok, my current psu is an evga 500w, good?

2
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No, CP-9020101-NA  matches the CX-M series , the regular CX series is CP-9020120

 

From EVGA, the cheapest I would recommend would be the BQ series.

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28 minutes ago, mariushm said:

Looks good.

Make sure it's CX-M and not the older and lesser quality CX series. The code (CP-9020101-NA) matches the CX-M series but best to double check.

ok, my psu is a 500w evga, good?

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Depends on the series. EVGA has some great series, and some really lousy series of power supplies.

If you already have it bought, you'll probably be fine with it as I said the new PC won't use a lot of power so the power supply won't be overloaded or abused by the new system. Only if you're buying a NEW power supply, it's worth spending a few dollars more to get something of high quality and more reliability.

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2 minutes ago, mariushm said:

Depends on the series. EVGA has some great series, and some really lousy series of power supplies.

If you already have it bought, you'll probably be fine with it as I said the new PC won't use a lot of power so the power supply won't be overloaded or abused by the new system. Only if you're buying a NEW power supply, it's worth spending a few dollars more to get something of high quality and more reliability.

nope, i have nothing yet, normally the budget wouldnt be a problem but for example there is a cpu thats 120$ prime and i gotta pay 1000$ for shipping if im not in the us and i gotta choose a 200$ version of the same exact cpu with free shipping, those extra bucks add up

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3 hours ago, Quintavious V said:

also instead of the seagate barracuda, i have a wd my passport 1tb external hard drive, if i plug that shit instead in usb 3.0 will it work good?

 

 

 

WD green drives run at 5400rpm iirc so if you are ok with a slightly slower hdd then go for it and save the money, just know you will void the warranty of the hdd(granted its a WD drive so it wont die unlike seagate drives lol)

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Where are you located? Why don't you order from versions of Amazon closer to you (for example Amazon.co.uk or Amazon.de if you're in Europe) ... or stores from that country you're in

Just say the country, it's not like someone's gonna find out your address and steal your shit.

 

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1 minute ago, luigi90210 said:

WD green drives run at 5400rpm iirc so if you are ok with a slightly slower hdd then go for it and save the money, just know you will void the warranty of the hdd(granted its a WD drive so it wont die unlike seagate drives lol)

nvm im gonna use awd blue 7200rpm, but is there faster rpm? just wondering

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Just now, mariushm said:

Where are you located? Why don't you order from versions of Amazon closer to you (for example Amazon.co.uk or Amazon.de if you're in Europe) ... or stores from that country you're in

Just say the country, it's not like someone's gonna find out your address and steal your shit.

 

im in the middle east lol amazon hates the middle east

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Just now, Quintavious V said:

nvm im gonna use awd blue 7200rpm, but is there faster rpm? just wondering

not for sata

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Just now, Quintavious V said:

im in the middle east lol amazon hates the middle east

and amazon is cheaper than the stores in my country, but i will still search for cheaper

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12 hours ago, Quintavious V said:

nvm im gonna use awd blue 7200rpm, but is there faster rpm? just wondering

There's 10000rpm, but it's expensive.

 

14 hours ago, mariushm said:

Again, it depends on where you live. What may be cheap and good in US may not be available in Australia for example, and some brands in Europe are not available in US or are much cheaper.

Can't figure out where you're from based on your posts so I'm just gonna assume US.

 

Here's some good choices, from cheapest (without mail-in rebates) to not so cheap but solid even great choices :

 

40$ : SeaSonic S12II 430B 430W ATX12V / EPS12V 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Active PFC Power Supply - 430w (360w on 12v) , 5y warranty, japanese components, a bit old design but quality components

45$ : SeaSonic S12II 520 Bronze 520W ATX12V V2.3 / EPS 12V V2.91 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Active PFC Power Supply  - same as above but more power on 12v (480w) , 5 year warranty, quality parts inside

 

47$ (27$ if 20$ extra mail-in rebate goes through) : Corsair CX-M CX450M 450w - more modern design, semi-modular, dc-dc conversion for 3.3v and 5v, great deal if the mail-in rebate goes through (but discount only available for 2 more days on Newegg)

 

52$ (32$ if the 20$ mail-in rebate goes through) - Antec EA-550 550w Bronze efficiency - probably made by Delta or FSP either way it's very OK design, very good value for price but not modular or semi-modular unlike Corsair CX-M (all cables conencted permanently) and just 3 year warranty (5year on CX-M)

 

55$ ( 35$ if the 20$ mail-in rebate goes through)  CORSAIR CX-M Series CX550M 550W 80 PLUS BRONZE Haswell Ready ATX12V & EPS12V Semi-Modular Power Supply -  same as above but 550w model

 

60$  ( 45$ with 15$ mail-in rebate)  = Seasonic FOCUS series SSR-550FM 550W 80 + Gold Power Supply, Semi-Modular, ATX12V/EPS12V, Compact 140 mm Size, 7 yr warranty - GOLD efficiency, semi modular, 7 year warranty, great deal if the rebate goes through

 

15

Stop recommending Seasonic S12ii and M12ii power supplies. Thr group regulated design are outdated.

 

12 hours ago, mariushm said:

No, CP-9020101-NA  matches the CX-M series , the regular CX series is CP-9020120

 

From EVGA, the cheapest I would recommend would be the BQ series.

Only the B2 is good. Other EVGA Bronze or below rated are all crap.

CPU: i7-2600K 4751MHz 1.44V (software) --> 1.47V at the back of the socket Motherboard: Asrock Z77 Extreme4 (BCLK: 103.3MHz) CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 RAM: Adata XPG 2x8GB DDR3 (XMP: 2133MHz 10-11-11-30 CR2, custom: 2203MHz 10-11-10-26 CR1 tRFC:230 tREFI:14000) GPU: Asus GTX 1070 Dual (Super Jetstream vbios, +70(2025-2088MHz)/+400(8.8Gbps)) SSD: Samsung 840 Pro 256GB (main boot drive), Transcend SSD370 128GB PSU: Seasonic X-660 80+ Gold Case: Antec P110 Silent, 5 intakes 1 exhaust Monitor: AOC G2460PF 1080p 144Hz (150Hz max w/ DP, 121Hz max w/ HDMI) TN panel Keyboard: Logitech G610 Orion (Cherry MX Blue) with SteelSeries Apex M260 keycaps Mouse: BenQ Zowie FK1

 

Model: HP Omen 17 17-an110ca CPU: i7-8750H (0.125V core & cache, 50mV SA undervolt) GPU: GTX 1060 6GB Mobile (+80/+450, 1650MHz~1750MHz 0.78V~0.85V) RAM: 8+8GB DDR4-2400 18-17-17-39 2T Storage: HP EX920 1TB PCIe x4 M.2 SSD + Crucial MX500 1TB 2.5" SATA SSD, 128GB Toshiba PCIe x2 M.2 SSD (KBG30ZMV128G) gone cooking externally, 1TB Seagate 7200RPM 2.5" HDD (ST1000LM049-2GH172) left outside Monitor: 1080p 126Hz IPS G-sync

 

Desktop benching:

Cinebench R15 Single thread:168 Multi-thread: 833 

SuperPi (v1.5 from Techpowerup, PI value output) 16K: 0.100s 1M: 8.255s 32M: 7m 45.93s

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10 hours ago, Jurrunio said:

There's 10000rpm, but it's expensive.

 

Stop recommending Seasonic S12ii and M12ii power supplies. Thr group regulated design are outdated.

 

Only the B2 is good. Other EVGA Bronze or below rated are all crap.

im going with evga 500w

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4 minutes ago, Quintavious V said:

im going with evga 500w

If you dont mention the full model name then your info is nearly useless. However good units usually have wattage of x50 watts, so your 500w unit is very likely to be shit.

CPU: i7-2600K 4751MHz 1.44V (software) --> 1.47V at the back of the socket Motherboard: Asrock Z77 Extreme4 (BCLK: 103.3MHz) CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 RAM: Adata XPG 2x8GB DDR3 (XMP: 2133MHz 10-11-11-30 CR2, custom: 2203MHz 10-11-10-26 CR1 tRFC:230 tREFI:14000) GPU: Asus GTX 1070 Dual (Super Jetstream vbios, +70(2025-2088MHz)/+400(8.8Gbps)) SSD: Samsung 840 Pro 256GB (main boot drive), Transcend SSD370 128GB PSU: Seasonic X-660 80+ Gold Case: Antec P110 Silent, 5 intakes 1 exhaust Monitor: AOC G2460PF 1080p 144Hz (150Hz max w/ DP, 121Hz max w/ HDMI) TN panel Keyboard: Logitech G610 Orion (Cherry MX Blue) with SteelSeries Apex M260 keycaps Mouse: BenQ Zowie FK1

 

Model: HP Omen 17 17-an110ca CPU: i7-8750H (0.125V core & cache, 50mV SA undervolt) GPU: GTX 1060 6GB Mobile (+80/+450, 1650MHz~1750MHz 0.78V~0.85V) RAM: 8+8GB DDR4-2400 18-17-17-39 2T Storage: HP EX920 1TB PCIe x4 M.2 SSD + Crucial MX500 1TB 2.5" SATA SSD, 128GB Toshiba PCIe x2 M.2 SSD (KBG30ZMV128G) gone cooking externally, 1TB Seagate 7200RPM 2.5" HDD (ST1000LM049-2GH172) left outside Monitor: 1080p 126Hz IPS G-sync

 

Desktop benching:

Cinebench R15 Single thread:168 Multi-thread: 833 

SuperPi (v1.5 from Techpowerup, PI value output) 16K: 0.100s 1M: 8.255s 32M: 7m 45.93s

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1 minute ago, Jurrunio said:

If you dont mention the full model name then your info is nearly useless. However good units usually have wattage of x50 watts, so your 500w unit is very likely to be shit.

 

EVGA 500 W1, 80+ WHITE 500W, 3 Year Warranty, Power Supply 100-W1-0500-KR, Black

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You're in middle east where it's probably much warmer in general than US or Europe.

 

Most quality power supplies are rated for their full power at up to 50c ambient, while cheaper power supplies are rated at lower ambient temperatures.

For example, that EVGA W1 is rated for 500w at only 40 degrees Celsius  ambient temperature.  The Corsair VS series is also another example of power supply rated for only 40 degrees Celsius ambient temperature. Same for the original CX series ... CX-M to the best of my knowledge is rated for 50c ambient.

 

This means if the air around the power supply (for example if the air inside the case gets close or exceeds 40c, quite easy to achieve in middle east) then the power supply is not guaranteed to output the full 500w, and the warranty period of 3 years can be lower.

 

People above keep bugging me about not recommending Seasonic S12ii and M12ii power supplies because they're old designs but at that price (cheaper than others if you don't include mail-in rebates which can be hit and miss) at least those had 5 year warranty and are rated for full 50 degrees Celsius at their maximum output power.

 

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4 minutes ago, mariushm said:

You're in middle east where it's probably much warmer in general than US or Europe.

 

Most quality power supplies are rated for their full power at up to 50c ambient, while cheaper power supplies are rated at lower ambient temperatures.

For example, that EVGA W1 is rated for 500w at only 40 degrees Celsius  ambient temperature.  The Corsair VS series is also another example of power supply rated for only 40 degrees Celsius ambient temperature. Same for the original CX series ... CX-M to the best of my knowledge is rated for 50c ambient.

 

This means if the air around the power supply (for example if the air inside the case gets close or exceeds 40c, quite easy to achieve in middle east) then the power supply is not guaranteed to output the full 500w, and the warranty period of 3 years can be lower.

 

People above keep bugging me about not recommending Seasonic S12ii and M12ii power supplies because they're old designs but at that price (cheaper than others if you don't include mail-in rebates which can be hit and miss) at least those had 5 year warranty and are rated for full 50 degrees Celsius at their maximum output power.

 

what if i change the temperature in my house to make it colder?

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