Need advice on First open loop build!

[emberblink]

Hey Folks, i need some input on my first open loop water cooling build i'm aiming to do. I've read through beginner water cooling threads etc so i have  the idea on fittings, blocks, res/pumps rads etc.

My components to be cooled is as follows.:

 

ASUS CH6

Ryzen 1700( a lot of reading suggested this over the x variants)

gigabyte gtx 1080 ti extreme.

 

so far i have 3 options.( yes i plan to OC cpu and gpu)

 

option 1: go with the EK P360 kit and get the gpu block /backplate and other fittings along with it from EK

option 2:  go with the EK config and get the monoblock for ch6, same pump,res combo and rad from the p360 kit.

option 3: hand pick components from different brands for the loop, eg. ek gpu block, ch6 mono block, pump/res from another brand, rads 3/8 x 5/8 tubing etc.

the kit comes with 3/8 x 1/2 tubing, I have read that 3/8 x 5/8 would be the better choiceplus i am adding a valve to drain the loop for maintainance. I like the look of the monoblock but i'm not sure if i need to watercool the vrams

but since i live in the Caribbean and its like always hot all year round, I'm not sure if i should go withthe monoblock or just a supremacy evo.

 

So here are my questions.

1: I already know a first time loop setup will cost money, so  performance wise in a hot climate should I go with the EK P360 kit route or hand pick different components from different brands?

2: Ek suggests the PE 360 rad for my case, thermaltake f31 , will a 360 rad be sufficient to cool cpu and gpu, oced, or should i throw in a 240 rad into the loop?

 

I'm trying to not go overboard on expense BUT at the same time i rather have quality components that cost a little more than something that will make me want to upgrade later on eg. rad or pump. So with that said I dont mind having to wait a while longer to save the cash for something that is better (silent and performance) cause everything has to be ordered online and internationally shipped to me. Most of the parts will prob be from perfomance pc.

[Lord Nicoll]

36 minutes ago, emberblink said:

snip

I generally like using as many components from the one company, but my current loop has an EK block and pump, Alphacool rad and thermaltake res, I picked the best budget options with exception of the CPU block, and I like the current loop, it gets changed so often it's not like it matters. A 360 would be enough realistically, but 600mm of rad space gets you extra bragging rights if that means anything. 

 

I think really it comes down to what you personally want, a loop that's good value, loops good or performs good, or a combination of those. 

[Leonard]

@emberblink, what the hell is an "open loop water cooling"....do you plan to leave the reservoir open because that would be super catastrophic.

 

anyway...i would not recommend that you mix EX's sizing to other brands even though EK lists the same 3/4inch or what ever because sometimes it is off by a few millimeters. If you want to use EK's stuff then use EK's stuff.

 

To be cost effective i would recommend you buy different components to make a loop of your choice because you will get deals on specific parts that you will not get in a kit like Hardware Labs radiators cool better for longer periods but you can get thme in a kit.....as yet, however, this is your first time doing a loop so use a kit that has everything already checked for compatibility for you then you can add components to it.

 

Get no less than a 360mm radiator for both components be it the XSPC/EK both will fit because the EX is 2.5mm thinner than the EK one. You can use a DDC pump for now and then upgrade to a D5 if you really want/need to.

[emberblink]

2 minutes ago, Leonard said:

@emberblink, what the hell is an "open loop water cooling"...

lmao i meant to say custom loop. I am pretty much half asleep atm.

 

4 minutes ago, Leonard said:

To be cost effective i would recommend you buy different components to make a loop of your choice because you will get deals on specific parts that you will not get in a kit like Hardware Labs radiators cool better for longer periods but you can get thme in a kit.....as yet, however, this is your first time doing a loop so use a kit that has everything already checked for compatibility for you then you can add components to it.

 

Get no less than a 360mm radiator for both components be it the XSPC/EK both will fit because the EX is 2.5mm thinner than the EK one. You can use a DDC pump for now and then upgrade to a D5 if you really want/need to.

I don't have an problem with getting different components to be cost effective but in terms of what part by what brands is where i am at a loss. So far from what i read, rads from alphacool pump/res from bitspower, primochill tubes etc. So for stuff like that i am open to advice from watercooling community .

so far its blocks by EK ( monoblock and gpu) or cpu block  heatkiller, gpu from ek. 360 +240 rad undecided on brand, same for pump/res combo and fittings.

Attached is  pic of my case which should be enough space for 2 rads, res and pump combo

[Moress]

Talking about price/performance on a custom loop is like asking a salesman to show you their economy Ferrari 

[stealth80]

Mixing brands is completely fine, with one exception - Get tubing and fittings from the same company. So if you like Bitspower fittings, get their tubing (as an example). As for the rest, you can mix as much as you want, although I would advise all your rads come from the same company to reduce dissimilar metals in the loop.

 

As for your monoblock question - I would say get it. I have a Ryzen 1700 on a Gigabyte Gaming 5, and my VRM's could get pretty toasty (not helped by my rear radiator right next to them - see the pic) they also look a TONNE better than the standard EK block imo, I swapped the monoblock in for an EK Supremacy, CPU temps are about the same.

 

 

I wouldn't get the kit, they are good for beginners/budget, but I honestly feel that after a few months you would wish you had gone separate components, much like I did when I went flex tubing over rigid in my old rig, I replaced it within 8 months, and fittings don't come cheap in a dual loop rig! 

 

Theoretically a 360 should cool a CPU + GPU, but I think under loads the fans would spool up quite a bit, I've look at the case specs and it seems you can fit a 280 in the top with a 360 in the front (might need to confirm this)

 

http://www.thermaltake.com/products-model_Specification.aspx?id=C_00002734

 

If that's the case I would do that, don't forget a drain line at the lowest point and a temp probe to put in the loop and plug into the board allowing your board to control the pump and fans based coolant temp rather than CPU

[Leonard]

3 minutes ago, emberblink said:

lmao i meant to say custom loop. I am pretty much half asleep atm.

 

I don't have an problem with getting different components to be cost effective but in terms of what part by what brands is where i am at a loss. So far from what i read, rads from alphacool pump/res from bitspower, primochill tubes etc. So for stuff like that i am open to advice from watercooling community .

so far its blocks by EK ( monoblock and gpu) or cpu block  heatkiller, gpu from ek. 360 +240 rad undecided on brand, same for pump/res combo and fittings.

Attached is  pic of my case which should be enough space for 2 rads, res and pump combo

--gone--

Well if you have no problem with getting different components from different companies then that should server you well in getting the most for your dollars spent.

 

Stay away from alphacool radiators they are seriously dirty internally, by dirty i mean the flux they use just seems to never be able to be gotten rid of and spoils your blocks over time.

 

Hardware Labs radiators are the best i know of with a wider range than other makers, EK radiators are cheap but they work very well. Bitspower is the most expensive of all the companies, followed but heatkiller. Primochill is a really good company and they are very helpful and their components are very reasonably prices but so too are Monsoon and XSPC.

 

With the above mentioned i would recommend you get radiators in this order if your budget allows....

1. Keep to only copper and brass blocks, radiators and fittings. I guess by you research you have found out how adding any other metals can make a grown man cry or pick up a gun
2. radiators = Hardware Labs/XSPC
3. Pump res combo = XSPC D5/DDC photon/any other D5 combination 
4. fittings = PrimoChill/Monsoon/XSPC make sure to get a couple rotary fittings for the least to help in tight spaces Bitspower rotaries are best here
5. tube = if soft tube look for Tygon anti-bacterial/ primoChill LRT ...the size and type are determined by the fittings
6. you will also need a PWM fan splitter
7. Do you plan to add a drain port to your loop?...it would be wise to do so. This should be places at the lowest point of your loop which is mostly the pump/reservoir
8. what about fans?...look for high static pressure over RGB shit but make sure it is not loud because that shit could make you go nuts if you like quiet
9. what about coolant? i myself only use de-ionized/distilled water with silver coils and have not had any issues with my 6 year loop. i change my coolant every 8 months and do a PrimoChill sysprep every 2 years. Know that any colored coolant you use it deposits in the pump and radiator and even though you have cleaned your blocks and run a new coolant in the pump and radiator has the colors and will then dissolve with the new color you put in if you decide to do so.

[emberblink]

2 hours ago, Moress said:

Talking about price/performance on a custom loop is like asking a salesman to show you their economy Ferrari 

While I agree with you on this point, my point of view is different. I live in a country where most high end components, and parts that are worth the money is not locally available, and the few that are, its ridiculously priced!. Having to internationally ship all of you components plus the fees your charged by your country customs all adds up. So with that it is my opinion that if i am going to watercool, i prefer to spend more upfront if it means i get better components that are worth the money rather than having to spend more to upgrade a few months after.

 

2 hours ago, stealth80 said:

Theoretically a 360 should cool a CPU + GPU, but I think under loads the fans would spool up quite a bit, I've look at the case specs and it seems you can fit a 280 in the top with a 360 in the front (might need to confirm this)

 

http://www.thermaltake.com/products-model_Specification.aspx?id=C_00002734

 

If that's the case I would do that, don't forget a drain line at the lowest point and a temp probe to put in the loop and plug into the board allowing your board to control the pump and fans based coolant temp rather than CPU

Yes that's the case and i can confirm it can fit a 360 and a 280 and each rad fits both top and front. I already have an idea of parts for a drain loop for maintenance, thank you for the input on the mono block! I honestly like the look for hard tubing but as a first timer i can say i definately don't expect it to work out unless i go straight hard tube build with angled, rotary and extender fittings ( which adds up to alot of fittings)

PS. i have a glacer 240l which rad i can salvage to use, though it uses barbs for 3/8 x 5/8  soft tubing. Any thoughts on using this rad?

 

@Leonard That is some pretty good info man. I appreciate it! i'm gonna put together a part list and i'll post  it in a while when i have stuff picked out.

 

 

[stealth80]

20 minutes ago, emberblink said:

.

 

Yes that's the case and i can confirm it can fit a 360 and a 280 and each rad fits both top and front. I already have an idea of parts for a drain loop for maintenance, thank you for the input on the mono block! I honestly like the look for hard tubing but as a first timer i can say i definately don't expect it to work out unless i go straight hard tube build with angled, rotary and extender fittings ( which adds up to alot of fittings)

PS. i have a glacer 240l which rad i can salvage to use, though it uses barbs for 3/8 x 5/8  soft tubing. Any thoughts on using this rad?

 

@Leonard That is some pretty good info man. I appreciate it! i'm gonna put together a part list and i'll post  it in a while when i have stuff picked out.

 

 

in all honesty rigid aint that hard. it's fiddely and takes some getting used to (just buy twice as much tubing!) but the results are definitely worth it. If you think in anyway shape or form that you prefer rigid, get rigid, as you will have to replace all the fittings aswell as the tubing, a costly mistake which I made as I explained earlier. 

 

[THFourteen]

I built my first loop last year and I went for rigid because I just didn't like the look of soft tubes. 

 

It wasnt easy easy but I'm glad I tried and was happy with the results. 

 

Just watxh a tonne of youtube videos about bending and my advice is to ignore people who tell you to do it by eye and measure measure measure everything!

[emberblink]

4 hours ago, Leonard said:

 

 

1. Keep to only copper and brass blocks, radiators and fittings. I guess by you research you have found out how adding any other metals can make a grown man cry or pick up a gun.

Yes sir, i I have Indeed.

For blocks i have it down to EK.

MONOBLOCK : EK-FB ASUS C6H RGB Monoblock - Nickel or EK-FB GA AX370 Gaming RGB Monoblock - Nickel

GPU : EK-FC1080 GTX Ti Aorus - Nickel  

BACKPLATE : EK-FC1080 GTX Ti Aorus Backplate - Nickel

(norhing has been ordered yet so still undecided between ASUS and Gigabyte although according to AMD AM4 motherboard guide 2.0

 

Radioators:

280 rad (Hardware Labs, undecided on which one in both sizes)

The Black Ice Nemesis Black Carbon 280GTS - for low rpm fans 

Hardware Labs Black Ice Nemesis GTR Black Carbon Radiator - 280mm - For 1000 rpm or above.

 

360 rads

Black Ice Nemesis 360GTS Ultra Stealth U-Flow Low Profile Radiator - Black Carbon

Hardware Labs Black Ice® Nemesis® GTR Black Carbon Radiator - 360mm

 

Fans:

120 mm NF-F12 PWM

140mm NF-A14 PWM

not sure about other SP fans @ low rpms

 

Pump/Res combo

XSPC D5 Photon 170 Reservoir/Pump Combo V2 PWM  or

EK-XRES 140 Revo D5 PWM (incl. pump)

 

Tubing

soft - PrimoFlex Advanced LRT 10ft Tubing - 3/8in. ID X 5/8in. OD - Crystal Clear

Rigid (Hard) Tubing - not sure apart from maybe PETG

 

fittings will etc will come after i decided on one of soft or hard.

drain valve wil be done with a ball valve at lowest point in the loop.

basic fittings as far as soft tube for 2 rads, pump, 2 blocks =10 (not counting the ball valve etc yet)

 

 

 

 

 

 

[emberblink]

1 hour ago, stealth80 said:

in all honesty rigid aint that hard. it's fiddely and takes some getting used to (just buy twice as much tubing!) but the results are definitely worth it. If you think in anyway shape or form that you prefer rigid, get rigid, as you will have to replace all the fittings aswell as the tubing, a costly mistake which I made as I explained earlier. 

 

I would like to do a rigid tube build, but apart from it being PETG for bending, i am clueless on brands and size to go for.

 

12 minutes ago, THFourteen said:

I built my first loop last year and I went for rigid because I just didn't like the look of soft tubes. 

 

It wasnt easy easy but I'm glad I tried and was happy with the results. 

 

Just watxh a tonne of youtube videos about bending and my advice is to ignore people who tell you to do it by eye and measure measure measure everything!

already do  JayzTwoCents for his videos on watercooling . i got the basics down, loops etc, just not the brands etc.

[emberblink]

4 hours ago, Leonard said:

what about coolant? i myself only use de-ionized/distilled water with silver coils and have not had any issues with my 6 year loop. i change my coolant every 8 months and do a PrimoChill sysprep every 2 years. Know that any colored coolant you use it deposits in the pump and radiator and even though you have cleaned your blocks and run a new coolant in the pump and radiator has the colors and will then dissolve with the new color you put in if you decide to do so.

The only thing i have where i live is battery water which should be  de-ionised, but i don't trust it since it is not printed on the label. I might get some pre mix coolant to be on the safe side .  As for color, undecided, might just be clear coolant with a colored tube.

[stealth80]

54 minutes ago, emberblink said:

I would like to do a rigid tube build, but apart from it being PETG for bending, i am clueless on brands and size to go for

 

Just get 10/12mm and matching rigid fittings from the manufacturer. I used primochill for mine as they sponsored my old build. Bitspower look great as do Barrow. 

[emberblink]

I'm gonna take a look at those now

[Leonard]

47 minutes ago, emberblink said:

The only thing i have where i live is battery water which should be  de-ionised, but i don't trust it since it is not printed on the label. I might get some pre mix coolant to be on the safe side .  As for color, undecided, might just be clear coolant with a colored tube.

You are correct on not trusting the battery water do not use that unless you want to ruin your blocks. If you buy premixed coolant it will come already mixed with quality distilled/deionized water. In my experience there is distilled/deionized water then there is real distilled/deionized water, they are different qualities and methods of making them, the first is with a filter, yes you heard me a filter ever seen those PH water filters on amazon well that is sold as just plain distilled/deionized water but it is not as good as the second on which is made in a laboratory/distillery. i get mine from a laboratory and it lasts way longer than store bought.

 

You can do the clear coolant with colored tube even with premixed coolants and not only distilled/deionized water.

[Leonard]

1 hour ago, emberblink said:

Yes sir, i I have Indeed.

For blocks i have it down to EK.

MONOBLOCK : EK-FB ASUS C6H RGB Monoblock - Nickel or EK-FB GA AX370 Gaming RGB Monoblock - Nickel

GPU : EK-FC1080 GTX Ti Aorus - Nickel  

BACKPLATE : EK-FC1080 GTX Ti Aorus Backplate - Nickel

(norhing has been ordered yet so still undecided between ASUS and Gigabyte although according to AMD AM4 motherboard guide 2.0

 

Radioators:

280 rad (Hardware Labs, undecided on which one in both sizes)

The Black Ice Nemesis Black Carbon 280GTS - for low rpm fans 

Hardware Labs Black Ice Nemesis GTR Black Carbon Radiator - 280mm - For 1000 rpm or above.

 

360 rads

Black Ice Nemesis 360GTS Ultra Stealth U-Flow Low Profile Radiator - Black Carbon

Hardware Labs Black Ice® Nemesis® GTR Black Carbon Radiator - 360mm

 

Fans:

120 mm NF-F12 PWM

140mm NF-A14 PWM

not sure about other SP fans @ low rpms

 

Pump/Res combo

XSPC D5 Photon 170 Reservoir/Pump Combo V2 PWM  or

EK-XRES 140 Revo D5 PWM (incl. pump)

 

Tubing

soft - PrimoFlex Advanced LRT 10ft Tubing - 3/8in. ID X 5/8in. OD - Crystal Clear

Rigid (Hard) Tubing - not sure apart from maybe PETG

 

fittings will etc will come after i decided on one of soft or hard.

drain valve wil be done with a ball valve at lowest point in the loop.

basic fittings as far as soft tube for 2 rads, pump, 2 blocks =10 (not counting the ball valve etc yet)

 

 

 

 

 

 

All those parts you have picked out so far are top notch with the exception of the REVO, there have been reports of leaks developing after usage.

 

I would go with the ASUS over any other brand at the moment because their drivers are more stable but Ryzen is not without challenges regarding the BIOS.

 

The fans are lowish SP ones but with the BlackIce radiators, any of them, you will be just fine because of their design and the 280mm radiators are a smarter choice because you will have more room for your runs and you can add another 140mm in the back i think.

 

If you do use rigid tube then you will need rigid fittings, they may look the same as soft tube fittings but they are not and the application is different and since you are buying from performancepcs they will be glad to help you with proper fitting, they are very helpful. they also sell just distilled water too if you want to do your won mixing or what ever. Now not that if you use a colored coolant and sometimes even in a clear one, when it comes time to change your coolant and you need to clean it you will need plain distilled water to do so properly, so you will need to work that out too. 

 

Look into getting a bottle of PrimoChill sysprep to clean your loop the first time and in the future.

 

You are correct about the amount of the fitting though. but look into a couple or 45/90 degree rotary fitting for problem free runs even with soft tube.

 

Enjoy your build.

[Moress]

3 hours ago, emberblink said:

While I agree with you on this point, my point of view is different. I live in a country where most high end components, and parts that are worth the money is not locally available, and the few that are, its ridiculously priced!. Having to internationally ship all of you components plus the fees your charged by your country customs all adds up. So with that it is my opinion that if i am going to watercool, i prefer to spend more upfront if it means i get better components that are worth the money rather than having to spend more to upgrade a few months

 

As much as my first post was a joke, if prices are ridiculous where you are, you may want to look into just getting a hybrid kit for your GPU, as a 1700 only needs a small air cooler to overclock well (so your 240 is perfectly fine) and a hybrid kit would get you very good results for a much lower price.

I know that a custom loop is a bit of a bragging point but the hybrid kit whybribe far more economical 

[emberblink]

4 minutes ago, Moress said:

As much as my first post was a joke, if prices are ridiculous where you are, you may want to look into just getting a hybrid kit for your GPU, as a 1700 only needs a small air cooler to overclock well (so your 240 is perfectly fine) and a hybrid kit would get you very good results for a much lower price.

I know that a custom loop is a bit of a bragging point but the hybrid kit whybribe far more economical 

I understand that, i was going go the hybrid route then decided not too. Plus a custom loop is something i always wanted to do same goes for my own custom cables, which i'll do eventually. I'm not doing it for bragging rights, it's just something i love doing  building pcs, mods etc. I even drew up plans for building myself a water cooled pc desk. For the moment, that project is on the shelf since i got way to many other things to build and install on my to do list. I'm even thinking about just going with a single 480 rad instead and some case modding for it to be mounted on my side panel or even use a bracket to mount it above my case.

[emberblink]

Quck question on PETG Sizes. Does id size affect flow rate? my current options are od/id : 12/8, 14/10, 16/12, Barrow PETG
rads are two black ice gts. 

 

[MaratM]

Probably all is done by now but you can easily put 2 360 BlackIce Nemesis rads in F31

[emberblink]

Completed my first loop. ( PETG order has not arrived yet, will be upgrading to that soon)

[For Science!]

38 minutes ago, emberblink said:

Completed my first loop. ( PETG order has not arrived yet, will be upgrading to that soon)

 

Looks great.

 

Is this primochill Vue? if so did you pre-prep your system with primochill sysprep or system reboot?

[emberblink]

yea it was VUE. I used reboot as per their instructions but VUE still failed in under 5 days for me. I'm not the only one that has happened too. Had to drain and  blitz and flush the loop. Currently i'm just running clear Utopia. I'm looking at Cryo chill fluid, waiting on some friends on discord who is testing that out before i order any.

[For Science!]

1 minute ago, emberblink said:

yea it was VUE. I used reboot as per their instructions but VUE still failed in under 5 days for me. I'm not the only one that has happened too. Had to drain and  blitz and flush the loop. Currently i'm just running clear Utopia. I'm looking at Cryo chill fluid, waiting on some friends on discord who is testing that out before i order any.

That's a shame. Hopefully your new fluid will work for you. 

 

My only suggestion (based on personal preference of course) would be that you have a very nice blue theme going on and it' getting swamped by the blue background lighting (blue on blue looks quite daek). Having gentle white LEDs should make the blue color pop out more.

 

Of course if you like the "under the sea" look then this is great as is.