Who needs a 3D printer when you have a 2D one.

[werto165]

 

waiting on parts for my bowden setup so  I decided to turn my printer into a well printer... 

 

You just turn off your nozzle and bed and then enabled Z-hop on retraction moves and you're golden. Took about 5 mins to do it, most of that time was wrapping the pen in the mount that I made. (if you have an anet a8 and you want to try out my mount you can find it here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2456080 it's my first design for one so be weary it hasn't been through through testing yet. 

[Ricardo56]

...Isn't that the "it's a trap" guy? Bad advertisement for the 3d printer

[iamdarkyoshi]

I see we both own a8's

 

[manikyath]

sounds like a project for me.. waiting for replacement parts for my borked hotend.

[iamdarkyoshi]

2 minutes ago, manikyath said:

sounds like a project for me.. waiting for replacement parts for my borked hotend.

MMMMMMMMMMMM what broke? Even after breaking my hotend tube twice since I'm ham fisted, it still printed fine

[manikyath]

Just now, iamdarkyoshi said:

MMMMMMMMMMMM what broke? Even after breaking my hotend tube twice since I'm ham fisted, it still printed fine

well.. here's the thing.. i think thermal cycling made the aluminium about as strong as butter..

 

and its last print it was spluring plastic frikking all over.. print came out near flawless..

[iamdarkyoshi]

1 minute ago, manikyath said:

well.. here's the thing.. i think thermal cycling made the aluminium about as strong as butter..

 

and its last print it was spluring plastic frikking all over.. print came out near flawless..

Perhaps a steel tube was better? I've printed ABS in mine and it worked fine after many thermal cyclings, and even a lighter used to heat it up outside of the printer to try to get a tigher seal

[werto165]

30 minutes ago, Ricardo56 said:

...Isn't that the "it's a trap" guy? Bad advertisement for the 3d printer

well it sort of is a trap... traps your wallet and holds it at ransom. 

[iamdarkyoshi]

3 minutes ago, werto165 said:

well it sort of is a trap... traps your wallet and holds it at ransom. 

But the a8 is cheal af, thats why I own TWO of them

[werto165]

27 minutes ago, iamdarkyoshi said:

I see we both own a8's

 

 

 

You've got the newer model :), my Z axis' which holds the Y axis stepper is a 3d printed part not an injection moulded part. https://photos.app.goo.gl/mpi9RJiNDvfDi5B02 

 I love that googly eye in the second image! haha. I wouldn't really call mine an a8 at this point with all the electronics being different: 

[iamdarkyoshi]

1 minute ago, werto165 said:

You've got the newer model :), my Z axis' which holds the Y axis stepper is a 3d printed part not an injection moulded part. https://photos.app.goo.gl/mpi9RJiNDvfDi5B02 

 I love that googly eye in the second image! haha. I wouldn't really call mine an a8 at this point with all the electronics being different: 

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2404707

[werto165]

2 minutes ago, iamdarkyoshi said:

But the a8 is cheal af, thats why I own TWO of them

Yeah I know but it's more the material that I'm on about and the projects that you end up doing... 

To be honest it's the electronics that end up costing more than the printed parts. It's just not that cheap when you start messing around with different filaments like TPU and PETG's 

[manikyath]

15 minutes ago, iamdarkyoshi said:

Perhaps a steel tube was better? I've printed ABS in mine and it worked fine after many thermal cyclings, and even a lighter used to heat it up outside of the printer to try to get a tigher seal

the part of the hotend assembly, and the better it conducts heat the more consistent temperatures are, i'm actually looking into having it made out different metals like copper, or to have a threaded "insert" of a more strong metal like nickel.

[werto165]

Just now, iamdarkyoshi said:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2404707

I would use it but I'm converting to a bowden setup because I want to print faster and I'm just hitting a speed wall atm, ringing galore with the speeds that I'm trying. I could mess around with jerk and whatnot but I thought I might as well just get a bowden setup going, it's only cost me about £0.50 for the hotend ( I had a coupon on aliexpress) and then the PC-04 fitting will probably end up costing more than the e3d v5 clone that I bought... 

[iamdarkyoshi]

6 minutes ago, werto165 said:

I would use it but I'm converting to a bowden setup because I want to print faster and I'm just hitting a speed wall atm, ringing galore with the speeds that I'm trying. I could mess around with jerk and whatnot but I thought I might as well just get a bowden setup going, it's only cost me about £0.50 for the hotend ( I had a coupon on aliexpress) and then the PC-04 fitting will probably end up costing more than the e3d v5 clone that I bought... 

Use acceleration settings, completely fixed my ringing on my old ABS printer, which could print well over 100mm/s

[Hackentosher]

Bro don't go with a bowden setup. You end up with extrusion problems, and you can almost forget about tpu if you're printing with a 1.75mm bowden. You should add a better hotend and maybe something like a Flexion direct drive extruder. 

[iamdarkyoshi]

10 minutes ago, Hackentosher said:

Bro don't go with a bowden setup. You end up with extrusion problems, and you can almost forget about tpu if you're printing with a 1.75mm bowden. You should add a better hotend and maybe something like a Flexion direct drive extruder. 

I had no bowden issues on my ABS printer but yeah TPU would suck. 

[manikyath]

3 minutes ago, iamdarkyoshi said:

I had no bowden issues on my ABS printer but yeah TPU would suck. 

the advantage of bowden is that you dont have to face stupid thermal issues on the E axis motor

 

i'm okay with the cold side of the hotend being 60+ °c, i'm SO not comfortable with the motor being at that temp

 

EDIT: oh, and your fillament getting stuck behind random things, that's a pretty poopy thing to happen as well..

[iamdarkyoshi]

4 minutes ago, manikyath said:

the advantage of bowden is that you dont have to face stupid thermal issues on the E axis motor

 

i'm okay with the cold side of the hotend being 60+ °c, i'm SO not comfortable with the motor being at that temp

 

EDIT: oh, and your fillament getting stuck behind random things, that's a pretty poopy thing to happen as well..

My ABS printer's extruder motor was a flatbed scanner stepper gear assembly

 

It did need active cooling, but it worked amazingly well, it had orders of magnitude higher resolution than the original drive. This assembly used to be a direct drive from my twoup 3d printer, I just adapted it

[manikyath]

3 minutes ago, iamdarkyoshi said:

My ABS printer's extruder motor was a flatbed scanner stepper gear assembly

 

It did need active cooling, but it worked amazingly well, it had orders of magnitude higher resolution than the original drive. This assembly used to be a direct drive from my twoup 3d printer, I just adapted it

if i'd do anything to the feeder setup, it'd probably be adding more "points of contact" with the fillament.

 

and i'd probably insta-buy if someone brought out a printer with "slip-detection"

[werto165]

 

24 minutes ago, Hackentosher said:

Bro don't go with a bowden setup. You end up with extrusion problems, and you can almost forget about tpu if you're printing with a 1.75mm bowden. You should add a better hotend and maybe something like a Flexion direct drive extruder. 

Well RIP dreams I guess. I will try and use it as I've disassembled it now... I guess it's just retraction that fucks it up and surely if you have a filament guide within the bowden extruder it should be fine ?

[iamdarkyoshi]

Just now, werto165 said:

 

Well RIP dreams I guess. I will try and use it as I've disassembled it now... I guess it's just retraction that fucks it up and surely if you have a filament guide within the bowden extruder it should be fine ?

If you're printing TPU with little compression, you'll probably get good enough results. But TPU and bowdens don't work well together

[werto165]

Since knowledgeable people are around is it worth getting a sensor for bed levelling? I was thinking of a BL-touch but I'm not too sure. I would like to use it without editing the config.h because I've lost mine and I don't fancy setting it up again as I can't remember all of the settings that I had. 

[iamdarkyoshi]

4 minutes ago, werto165 said:

Since knowledgeable people are around is it worth getting a sensor for bed levelling? I was thinking of a BL-touch but I'm not too sure. I would like to use it without editing the config.h because I've lost mine and I don't fancy setting it up again as I can't remember all of the settings that I had. 

I just get my bed leveled nicely and then just tweak the Z endstop screw for height setup.

[werto165]

Just now, iamdarkyoshi said:

I just get my bed leveled nicely and then just tweak the Z endstop screw for height setup.

I think I need a new frame. I mean i'll push down the front of my printer and the bed will leave the nozzle by at least 0.15mm which as you know isn't great. it must be something not level. I have a feeling it's the cable chain that I installed because it just doesn't seem to lie flat left side of the frame is fairly rigid and the right side it's having a party over there lets just say it's a wobble fiesta.